Coosa
 

So who has used it ?? what did ya think about it and or hows it working out??

Just got a couple samples ... Very interesting !!

Re: Coosa
 

Haven't used it yet but I am also interested. Where did you get the samples?

Re: Coosa
 

What a coosa?

Re: Coosa
 

Scott,
I used coosa 20 for my wet/rotted transom replacement. From the data I received from the folks @ coosa composites (see link), it has same or better strength as marine ply, at about 1/2 the weight.

http://www.coosacomposites.com/

The local store, where I purchased mine, also gave me a scrap of approx. 18" square to play with, so I took it home and fabbed up a couple different shapes (knee, over-lapping, & layering) to give it a whirl, before deciding to go with it.

From my exerience I know it works easy. Requires no special tools (it cuts WAY fast with a die grinder & 4" dia., thin wheel), and I liked the lighter weight, because I could handle lifting the sandwiched core into place easily by myself. Besides, my project was porky enough in the tail end, and I liked the benefit of loosing approx 50 #'s of non-essential weight.

The only down-side I can recall, was that at the time I did mine (about a year ago) local pricing was approx 1.5 - 2 times more than marine ply, but in the overall scheme of things, was not the major cost factor in the transom repair anyway.

Have ZERO complaints with it's performance to date. :D :cool: ;)

Good Luck :) ;)

PS: I also liked the moisture absorption #'s they claimed, for what they say is fiberglass reinforced PVC foam.

You'll find differing densities available. I ended up with the 20#, as it was "in-store" available, and has worked out just fine.

Re: Coosa
 

Jorge … you may have figured it out already but Here’s Coosa …..

It’s a composite core material that is suppose to be ultra tough

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0007Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0008Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0009Medium.jpg

Re: Coosa
 

Bryan ... I emailed them one night and the next morning had a reply and a sample was on its way ( I didn't even specifically ask for one). I emailed them back and they sent me more info in with the sample package. Very responsive.

ob1 thanks for the info....

I did wish that they had comparison numbers agains plywood ... I did not see or get anything like that. I'm also curious as to how this stuff handles self tapping screws. Its very light (Bluewater 26) and curious if they would strip.

Re: Coosa
 

Scott,
Here's a link for plywood design spec's, which should give you all the info you could want for comparison. I had the Comparison stuff saved on my old PC, until it died :mad:

Best of my memory was that tensile, shear, modulus, and fastener holding strength the Coosa 20 either very closely meets or in many cases exceeds that of ply's., and the blue-26 was better in ALL catagories... But don't quote or hold me to that :D.

Download yourself a copy of Y510 (free with use of adobe acrobat), then read away... ;)

Re: Coosa
 

I used the Coosa Bluewater on my 23SF transom last year. Very easy to work with. It shapes nicely with the router. It does dull the saw blades. It is lighter and stronger than plywood, but more expensive. I used the boat all summer and there are no indications in the paint. I shaped the board so there is no aluminum trim required around the motor well. I would recommend it highly.

Re: Coosa
 

Regal uses COOSA in the transoms on some of their boats.

Re: Coosa
 

Scott,

I am currently installing Coosa Bluewater 26 in my 23SC rebuild. I have completed the transom (full)and in the process of redoing the deck (1/2"coosa core). For the transom I laminated a 1/12" and 1/2" piece of coosa together for a core of 2".The Coosa has been great to work with. I initially started cutting it with a jigsaw, but it was devouring blades (carbide) like crazy. When I did the rough cut for the deck patterns I used a sawzall. It worked super. You just have to take your time in order to cut without weaving. Th coosa is a dream to sand , but make sure to wear long sleeves. I had to construct a new
subdeck for the portside and I am planning to install the core (coosa) in the next several weeks. The coosa is expensive( I have about $2200in just coosa)but you don't have to worry about water intrusion. The only draw back I have experienced is it doesn't hold screws as well as plywood.

Re: Coosa
 

I used it on my 25' for the knees and inside the console. Like the other have said it was very easy to work with.

If I was going to put screws into it I would drill the larger hole and fill it with glass then re-drill for the screw. I can't recall where I seen that info.....it might have been in the West Systems booklet.

Re: Coosa
 

Thanks guys !!

CJR $2200 ...YIKES !!!

Stoney ... I forgot you used that in the transom ... the 200 is hanging off that transom ..right ?

Re: Coosa
 

I e-mailed Coosa today and they were happy to send out a product sample.
Not bad if anyone is interested in using the stuff.

Re: Coosa
 

Scott,

You are correct "Yikes". That is what I said plus a few other choice words. I have removed all of the wood from the boat and will or have used coosa for the transom, deck, cap,
hatches , everything where a core is needed.Also, I replaced the fuel tank and used a piece of 3/4"coosa for the fuel tank bed( 8'L x 28" w).The console is going to be stiffened with 1/2" coosa because I am having a hard top frame fabricated which will be mounted to the console rather than screwed into the deck. It doesn't take long before material usage mounts up. Basically 25% of the cost
of the coosa is in the transom alone.

Re: Coosa
 

Although I have never used the stuff I really like it based on so many guys which have and told me so. But it sure does cost $$. The biggest concerns on SeaCrafts is the transom area due to it needing to be strong, light, and rot free. If money is a issue you could just do the Transom with it, then use other materials for the rest of the boat where weight and strength and rot free is not as much of a issue. I personally really like a heavy boat for the ride but with a 8’ beams boat “lighter is better” in the transom and 30% lighter that wood sounds really good to me.


FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins :D :D

Re: Coosa
 

Couple of thoughts/questions,

Does the Coosa board actually absorb epoxy like a wood core does?

How much weight does the plywood core in a transom actually add over a coosa cored transom?

Re: Coosa
 

No the epoxy doesn't go into Coosa like plywood. Remember a tree has pores in it.


Plywood is almost double the weight.

Re: Coosa
 

What does it cost for enough Coosa to do a transom on a SeaCraft 20?
A local plywood dealer has 4'x8', 3/4 A/B doug fir marine for $80 sheet. Lets say a transom will take about 70% of each sheet, so the ply for that transom will weigh about 105#'s and cost about $160. If Coosa weighs about 1/2 as much as the ply, what's the cost premium to save about 50#'s?

Re: Coosa
 

Yes it weighs less, but the major benefit is the fact that it will not absorb water warp or rot. Spend the money now or spend it later........... :D

Re: Coosa
 

Don ...Have you done anything with thus stuff?

Dan .. a 4 x 8 1.5" sheet of the Bluewater 26 ( I guess he heaviest they make ) is a 104 lbs ... The sheet is $563 picked up ... a 5 hour trip for me personally.

The info I have states it is (Bluewater 26) 30% lighter than plywood
The slightly less dense Bluewater 20 Claims 45%

Re: Coosa
 

Forgot
The 3/4" Bluewater 26 4x8 was $305 a sheet

Re: Coosa
 

We use it or a similar product in the bracket transoms and I have used it on a few transom repairs.
:rolleyes:

Re: Coosa
 

Sorry, I wasen't very clear with my numbers. I said
"...a local plywood dealer has 4'x8', 3/4 A/B doug fir marine for $80 sheet". I should have added that it weighs about 75#'s/sheet.

So, in comparison to the Bluewater 1.5" Coosa, the answer to my question may be that the Coosa represents a 43%+/- weight savings, but at a 250% increase ($400+/-) increase in cost. I'm not suggesting one is better than the other, just trying to understand the issues involved with each material.

Re: Coosa
 

I'm not sure about prices these days, but I picked up a 4' x 8' and 1 1/2 inch thick sheet in New Orleans about two years ago for $200. I ordered the bluewater 26 and was quoted about $300. I think I actually got the bluewater 20. Not reel sure. Very easy to work with. Cut out the transom but still haven't glassed it in yet. Sad to say this has become a long term project.

Re: Coosa
 

Penske Board?