|
1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
All right guys, here goes. I started working on my 78 Master Angler. I sanded the bottom smooth while the boat was still outside...I also sanded the paint the previous owner painted the boats sides with down to smooth gelcoat.
Here are some shots of the boat sitting outside. She was subsequently placed on my Grady's trailer and slipped into her new home for the next year or so inside my big garage. Here are some pics. [image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/Seacraftsideshot.jpg[/image] [image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/splashwell.jpg[/image] [image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/transom2.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/console2.jpg So much dust in the air the camera got a picture of it! [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000838.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000838.jpg Start of De-Rigging [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000840.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000840.jpg [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000847.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000847.jpg Fuel Tank Removal [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000856.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000856.jpg Tank Coffin [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000867.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000867.jpg There wasen't that much foam around the tank, and I think it was relatively recently replace and painted with Zinc Phosphate. Although I didn't take a pic, I scrapped the junk off the tank and it looks like its in good shape. Tomorrow I'll pressure test it...if it holds pressure I'll clean it up more, paint it and eventually re-install. Tank prices have gone up big time in the past couple years. Now my nest step is to remove and replace the deck. I will need to re-do the entire deck since its VERY SOFT in many areas and rather soft almost all over. I saw pictures of James Allmans 80' MA where he replaced the deck with marine ply. I would like to do the same. My question is should I cut along the line indicated in the picture, remove the remainder of the deck leaving the drainage channel, then grind that area down and apply 1708 over the entire deck to tie it all in. I really want to leave that channel and want to cut 1-1.5 inches outside of the channel, so when I glass the deck over, I can glass over that area and tie everything together soundly and strongly. [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/Cutdeck.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...sh/Cutdeck.jpg [image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/0a367ffe.jpg[/image] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/0a367ffe.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Grady,
I cleaned up some of the image tags for you. Quote:
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Thanks, for a second I wondered why my post seemed like its doubled!
Well any suggestions guys? |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
The channel is nice but if you want to make it self bail better then you will want to raise the flood 1.5 to 2 inches. Then you will have to off that channel and make a new one. That may be more work then you want to get yourself into.
If thats the case and you want to leave the design as it is then I think your plan to tie in at the edge of the channel will work. However will need to make sure that there is support (like girders under a house) under the new floor and the old edge/channel to rest on then tie them together. strick |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Thanks for the reply Strick. From my understanding I shoulden't have self bailing problems with this version of the 20, since it has the pvc tubes running to the rabuds in the transom. Supposedly this was the best self bailing desing for all the 20's. I actually was wondering whethere to raise the floor or not, but others point out its not necessary in my boat. I was looking at James Allmans pictures, and saw how he did his. Well I would like to mimick what he did. I do believe their is support underneath by where those channels are. I'm actually wondering whether leaving on 1-1.5 inches outside of the actual channel is enough to later tie into the new deck. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Another thing to consider is to replace the 70 gal fuel tank with a 50 gallon. That will give you room in the front of the tank box to put your batteries with a couple cubic feet of storage left over for lines, spare anchor, etc.
That's what I did to mine and it's working out well. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Roger, thanks for the reply. Interestingly enough I was seriously considering replacing the tank with a smaller one. The main reason is becasue I might be able to get a surplus brand new 48 or 55 gallon tank at a really good price. I'm not sure if the deal will go through, but I'll stop by the local welding shop. I looked at my tank yesterday in good daylight and realized its pitted too severly to be reused!
I wanted to move a smaller tank foward to help offset the balance of the 4 stroke (heavier motor) I intend to power the boat with. My plan was to move the batteries to under the console seat. Well guys, I think today I'll start cutting into the deck. If not today then Wednesday. Wish me luck. I'll be leaving a lip of almost 2 inches outside the little channel. That way when I grind and tie the new deck into the old there will be enough room for a new bond. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
can anyone direct me to info on the self-bailing issues. Which hulls need it and which don't What are the options. I'm supposed to look at a 69 this week. thanks for the help on this board.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I have kept the 70 gal cap. on my 20 MA and moved the batts up under the console seat and help out the wieght dist. quite a bit. My self bailing hull drains through the floor and I have to plug them if I have more than one person on the boat, even with a lite amount of fuel. I have a 200 yamaha(1994)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...witt2/SC56.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Willydewit, do you have Rabuds in the back of your MA. My boat drains through the floor, but those drains run to the back of the boat and let the water out through rabuds, AKA Ping Pong Scuppers. I thought those would prevent water from coming into the boat.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Well I've actually done a lot since my last posting. Last sunday evening I cut out the deck as planned. I first cut out the tank coffin (which I forgot to take a picture of) and then the rest of the deck came out as I planned. The coffin is impressive, it's VERY well made and sturdy.
The deck came off and I managed to get 85% of it off in large sections, which is nice because I used those sections as templates. This was the deck section just ahead of the console...talk about ROT. The core was nearly all gone. These pics are after I ground the stringers clean and shop vacumed everything.....I wish I took the dirty pictures! I inadvertently cut into some of the stringers, so I had to reglass them. It was no biggie. This is the lip around the deck...it runs into a drain channel. Most of the stringers had a little foam towards the bottom...which to my surprise and delight was about 95% dry. I got some two part foam left over from last year and poured topped off the stringers. The area underneath the tank coffin also had foam sprayed onto the floor, which I took up and let the water underneath it dry up in the places which it existed, and then I refoamed the dry foam back in place. Yesterday I cut out the three main deck sections out of 3/4 inch Douglas Fir. The new deck will primarily rest on top of the stringers, but the edges will be tabbed into the lip I left around the deck. Here is how I'll be epoxying the tabs to the lip. I'll use epoxy mixed with cabosil and fiberglass strands. Here are all the tabs/cleats I'll use. This is a pic of them after being coated with Epoxy. Tomorrow night I hope to have the tabs in place and wednesday hopefull the deck will be going in. Any advice guys......is everything looking good? http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000894.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000896.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000899.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000900.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000901.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000902.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000903.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000904.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000905.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000908.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000910.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
GradySailfish, nice documentation of your refurb. and welcome to the site. I have a 1979 20MA and am located in Bluffton. Where is F and B Boatworks? I'd like to see your project in person. I spend a pretty good amount of time building Jersey Speed Skiffs at Southeast Boatworks in Thunderbolt and would like to stop by.
My MA is basically all original other than a new transom in '99, which I had not yet discovered this site, and did not raise it. She was repowered that year with a carbed 175 Johnson and only has 115 hours on it. Good luck with your progress. Looks great. Vezo, Part II. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Thanks, Vezo, where does it talk about F-B Boatworks? I'm doing this in my shop/garage but I'm not affiliated with any company.
I just noticed your in the Carolina's, I'm up in Long Island NY. I'd love to see pictures of your project or any suggestions. Thanks for offering to stop by...you're welcome to of course but its a little bit of a haul. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Crap!!! Wrong MA! Sorry. One is being redone as we speak here in Savannah. Similar tear down, so I thought. Thanks for the invite anyway. Vezo.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Grady,
Are you also going to use Douglas Fir for the transom also? I am asking because I am deciding on whether to spend the extra money and go with marine ply or use something else for the transom. Thanks |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I was going to go with Marine Ply for the transom and deck as well.....I made a post on another site asking for suggestions as to suppliers of Marine Ply, since I was quote 125 or 135 bucks a 4*8 sheet of 3/4. Three years ago when I did my brothers Searay I think I paid 78 bucks a sheet.
Well some people, including two highly respected boat rebuilders/shop propriertors suggested I use Douglas Fir. So far I'm happy with it....but keep in ming I coat everything very thoroughly with Epoxy. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
You can do a 25" transom with 2 4x8 sheets of 1/2" marine ply. Just piece meal the middle layer (like they show in the west systems booklet). 1/2" is a whole lot easier to work with than 3/4". Just my opinion!! Add a layer of glass b/w each section. Marine Grade Dougfir a/b cost me $62/sheet at an expensive lumber yard.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
There you go Bigshrimpin....it cost my around 54 bucks a sheet, since I ended up getting 5 sheets altogether (for the deck and transom. I think I'll have an entire 4*8 left over since the deck was made from two sheets....a happy surprise! Make sure you liberally coat the wood with epoxy and it will never go wrong....well as long as you properly bed and re-bed every few years anything fastended to the deck. On my transom I was planning to mix up some Epoxy, cabosil and milled fibers to a putty like consistency...spread it out on the sheets and then slap together. I may do it the way you mentioned though...I'm not sure of the pros and cons. I don't have pics (I'll take tomorrow) but I finished putting the tabs in around the deck....I also coated with epoxy the plywood that will be used on the deck and reinforced the foward hatch compartment's floor by epoxying a piece of ply underneath it. If my shipment of two part foam and cabosil arrives before friday, I'll be able to get the deck epoxied into place and maybe glassed over by the end of this weekend. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I did mine from the inside, but if I didn't have the entire boat apart, I'd go from the outside. Screw and glue one layer at a time. I used a layer of 3/4oz mat b/w each layer of wood. A short nap roller will be your best friend if you use Fiberglass Mat.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
GradySailfish On your floor. Are you going to laminate a light layer of cloth to the bottom side of the floor before you install it?
DF will check. It will even check with just a coating of epoxy on it. The added glass will stop the checking. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I have the boat mostly apart, plus the top-cap/lid will come off to be re-cored, so while everything is apart I'll do the transom from the inside.
I wasen't planning to apply a light cloth on the underside, I merely gave it a thorough coating with epoxy resin. Now I think I will apply some 6oz cloth to the underside before I install the deck. I figured if the deck is installed with a thickened epoxy, there will be no way for the underside to check. I'll apply the cloth anyway.....heck I'd rather overkill then underdo. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
You can still have moisture trapped under the deck and the moisture will collect on the bottom side of the deck.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I second the checking thing. My students always want to skip the cloth part when building plywood skiffs and kayaks. Due to cost and laziness. Those that do will find checks in the finish after a season of use.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Here's pics of the new deck, I gave the ply a couple liberal coats of epoxy, but as per Warts suggestion I also glassed some 6oz cloth on the underside to prevent "checking".
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000912.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000913.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000914.jpg Here's some pictures of the cleats running on the underside of the inner liner. I epoxied these into place with 5:1 Epoxy and Cabosil. To test how strong they are I stood and jumped up and down on them and they held. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000917.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000920.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000923.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...IM000919-1.jpg Here are some shots of the deck installed. The deck rests on both the main stringers and the cleats running aroung the inner liner. The deck was epoxied into place with a mix of Cabosil, and glass fibers. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000924.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000927.jpg And where I left off the other day, the deck glass over with two layers of 1808 and one layer of 6oz cloth on top. You can notice some "wet" areas on these pics. The "wet" areas are spots that were relatively low and which I filled with 6 oz cloth so I have less fairing to do later. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000928.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000929.jpg Within a couple days I plan to fair the deck using some Interlux fairing/filling compound. Sorry for the long time between updates, but 4rth of July, an office move etc all conspired to limit boat time. Well guys, hows it lookin? I may get some new pics posted tonight! Enjoy -Alex |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I feel your pain !! Been there done that. Looks good
except I do not see any chases for IE: Steering, controls, wiring, etc. See ya, Ken |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Chases for rigging? Oooops I guess I forgot about that! j/k Actually I did cut an opening for the rigging/wiring, but I glass over it since I planned on making a slightly different design to allow the easier pulling. All I have to do is cut through two layers of 1808 and one layer 0f 6oz....no biggie. Maybe I'll do that tonight! -Alex |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Hi guys...new updates....Here are the pictures of the deck after getting its first layer or Interlux Interfill 830. In order to get the deck as perfect as possible, I followed Raybo's advice and basically "skim coated" the entire deck with fairing compound. I spread it on and it came out great.....there's a few spots along the sides and right in the middle of the "casting deck" area that still needs a little touch up. I sanded the deck and most of the edges...I still have to clean up the gutter/drain around the deck and lip to where the tank coffin meets the deck. The Interfill sands nicely.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000955.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000962.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000969.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000958.jpg Well, most of the deck is done I'm glad to say....she needs a little more fairing, some sanding and paint, but that will come when I'm sanding fairing all the other little nicks, scratches etc on the boat prior to paint. So I started on the next project...the transom. I started by removing the rubrail and all screws securing the lid/cap to the hull....then I simply lifted the lid out of the boat (even though it took some persuasion [}:)] ) http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000954.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000965.jpg Well I must say the transom was pretty "wet" http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000959.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000956.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000961.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000960.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000963.jpg Check out this void on the corner of the transom. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000964.jpg Last night I cleaned the transom up. I got all the rotted wood out and cut the remaining fiberglass out with a cut off wheel. All have left to do before I can start installing a new transom is to grind the area up....luckily I got the worst done last night. Belive it or not the transom was basically mulch....so a shop vac removed a good part of the transom. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000966.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000967.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000968.jpg Enjoy |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Nice work. You're moving right along. I'm very jealous of the fact that the cap can be removed in your boat. I spent the last two days picking caulk out of the hull to cap joint on my boat - 20 sf. Then sanded both surfaces with a paint stick and sandpaper taped to the end. No fun but necessary for the 5200 to stick.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Grady-
Nice work on removing that deck cap. I was wondering if this boat is going to have a bilge? I see you have a bulk head just in front of the transom. strick |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Strick, there is no bulkhead in the bilge area...its an empty area up underneath the tank coffin, so the boat will have a bilge.
Now to the update Ok....well most of the transom work is done. Here are some pics. I laminated 3 layers of plywood together with 1.5 oz matt in between...I also drilled some weepage holes as some of you have done, and that was a good thing because lots of resin literally leaked out the holes. I then glassed a layer of 1808 into the skin, making sure I warp is a few inces along the sides. I also added fillets into the corners. I then glassed a piece of 1.5 oz matt to the transom core, add some additional thickened resin to the skin and resin thickened to peanut butter consistency with caobsil and milled fibers around the base perimiter of where the core would sit. I installed the core and bolted/ clamped it to the transom skin. I then successfully added one piece of 1808 over the entire transom area, but I had difficulty adding a second larger layer. As a result I decided to "tab" the transom in seperately then more layers of 1808 to the core. I tabbed the corners and all around with 4 layers of 1808. 4",6",8",12" I also added additional tabs to the transom side walls and atop of the ponton stringers. Some areas of the transom have 6 gradually building layers of 1808 over then. Tonight I added a two more layers of 1808 over the transom core. Overall the transom feels solid. [;)] I also added Matt into the bilge area (to prevent print through of 1808 I want a nice bilge)and added bilge pump mounting pads. I got some air bubbles but for the most part the transom project worked out well. Tomorrow I grind up/clean up the rough areas. Enjoy http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000980.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000970.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000971.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000974.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000983.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000981.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000977.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000982.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
WOW looks great! I need to get a crash course on the whole fiberglass thing and then I can play ;)
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Quote:
strick |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Been awhile since my last post, but I really haven't done too much postworthy things. I finally finished the transom, all thats left is to final fair it. I also removed the topcap and flipped it upside down. I started to work on re-coring it. Parts of the topcap were in horrible shape, the wood was literally scrapped, then sucked out with a vacum. The other sections of the topcap were as good as new. I intend to recore with laying one layer of 1.5 oz matt, one layer of 1808, then some 3/8 AC Douglas Fir followed by two more layers of 1808.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000993.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/im000996.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001001.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001002.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001003.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001004.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001007.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001006.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001005.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001008.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Well guys I should have posted more progress pictures but these past few months have been pretty much the same deal...lots of sanding and fairing. Progress has not been as good as I wanted, but earlier this spring into summer I renovated my fathers house....so I was rather busy with that. Plus fishing was good so I took every advantage to get out. Now I want to get this thing in paint so I can enjoy the fall run.
Anyway, the boat had a tremendous amount of stress cracks. I guess they came from the topcap flexing because its core was completely rotted out. Last fall/winter I recored the topcap and put it back on the boat, but this year I spent quite a bit of time grinding, filling and fairing the thing. I also modified the console, by raising it a and changind the design so I have much more dash space. Enjoy http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001182.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001181.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001178.jpg In previous posts you see I wondered what to do about the woven-roven that was on the inside of the inner liner, well I wirewheeled the grey paint off and glassed a layer of 1.5 oz matt to the woven. I then sanded the 1.5 oz matt and applied several thin coats of fairing compound and sanded the whole thing. This aspect of the project took an enormous amount of time. BTW I added two layers of 1.5 where the deck lip and inner liner meet. I hope all of that work doesn't go to waste and start cracking or something. I'm still debating whether to gelcoat that or not. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001183.jpg Finally some primer...well at least on the top cap and hull ! Awlgrip 545. I applied 2-3 pretty solid coats, but it seems like the body work is still visible through the primer. When I run my hand in the area it feels flush....when I apply a ruler from one end to another the area seems flush....but here I spray primer and I can see the body work. What do you guys think ? I'm guessing because I had to hold the gun differently I didn't apply a thick enough coat(s). The hull is perfect, but the topcap worries me a little. This was my first time sparying awlgrip and it was easy to work with. The only other thing I've sprayed before was some teak and mahogany panels with varnish. I'm planning to have everything faired, primed and Rob at Raybo Marine will apply the topcoat. [:x)] Strick is doing a bang up job on is SC. It looks like he will get done a little faster though ! I love the lines on the SF model....but the MA seems to feel like it has more freeboard. BTW in case you guys are wondering, the boat will be bottom painting since it will spend a majority (8 months out of the year in the water next to her big sister the Grady) http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001193.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001194.jpg |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Hey, Grady -
I see you keep referring to Raybo - are you in Lindenhurst? If so, I'd like to stop by & check out your boat. Thanks- Doug |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Hey Doug, I do refer to Raybo in Lindenhurst, but my boat is not there. Raybo gives me some advice on various aspects of the project and I will have him apply the topcoat, but again my boat isin't at his shop. Raybo does awesome work though, if you need anything done to your boat he comes highly recommended. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Warthog5, What is checking? Just curious as some boat builders in Hawaii glass a layer of mat on the underside of douglass fir plywood and some say you don't need to, just brush resin on it. Thanks for your knowledge. Aloha from Hawaii, Greg
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Just something I noticed, your baitwell is not as deep as my 76, mine goes all the way to the stringer almost, as my door is closed off completely.
|
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
I wish my baitwell went down farther. it's pretty useless for any decent sized baitfish. Sometimes I use bunker or herring for bass and the well, in its current size is a touch too small. |
Re: 1978 20 Master Angler Restoration
Well I've done a lot more work on the interior of the boat. She had tons of cracks along the gunnel channel drain which I faired to my best ability (sanding, and working in a curve or groove like that sucks) There was also just a lot of general work on the inside of the boat. Fortunately its done. The hull has been primed and sanded for topcoat with 220 grit.
Instead of reusing the old tank hatch cover (which would have required me using two seperate pieces) I instead made a new tank coffin cover out of 1/2 Corecell I had. Its lighter then the plywood and just as stiff. Plus I needed to make the hatch cover somewhat custom as the guy who made my fuel tank didn't follow my directions and made the tank one inch higher then it should have been. The deck new deck plate has added glass along its underside so that it sits higher thereby giving clearance for the fuel fill. The earlier mentioned problems I had were I guess a combination of not enough primer in some cases and body work that wasen't perfect. Since then I fixed both and I think it looks ok. In case your wondering guys, as per Raybo's suggestion I primed the inside white because the topcoat will be white. The hullsides I left in thier Awlgrip grey since they will be ice blue. Hopefully next saturday I'll bring her over to the highly skilled hands of Raybo and have him shoot the topcoat. BTW Sorry to be working so slow. But I'm not a pro like most of you...I fumble along, make mistakes, fix them....and on and on.....! [:p] http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/im001235.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001240.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001239.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001243.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM001242.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/im001241.jpg |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:38 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft