1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

hey guys,
finally decided to take the boat and put it under the knife. plans are , 200 merc added. adding bennett m-120 trim tabs.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0083.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0082.jpg the holes have been drilled and there was some shmeg water :( but no flexing not much i will do right now.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0093.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0094.jpgnext thing happening is console modification. i had the giant console in here.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0089.jpg oh no 8 inches fell out!
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...IMG_0088-1.jpg now in the reconstruction stage.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0092.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0091.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0090.jpgfinally i am cleaning up the splashwell. previous owner had way too many holes in there for me.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...IMG_0087_2.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0086.jpg
ok now my question is, id like to find the cleanest, best looking way to get the harness and hydraulic steering hoses to the motor. was looking at t&h motor rigging kit. does anyone have experience with that? or have any better way to do this? thanks.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

There is likely a whole host of ways of accomplishing your goal, here is a "stuff them all in a hose" method:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/hatidua/a1.jpg

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

:eek: :eek:
!!!!!!!!!
where did u get those hydraulic bulkhead fittings!?!?!? i need those !!!

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Wildfire Marine, ph.772.286.1925 (tell him you are inquiring about the fittings on "Mark's SeaCraft 20').

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Actually you don't want that style and here's why.

Any chafing is going to occur where the hoses are exposed in the splashwell.

Those hose's are one piece. Even the support deal is attached to the hose.

A better setup is 4 hose's and a bulkhead fitting kit. The 3/4in kit should work fine for this type install.

The advantage is this. if a hose is chafed that is exposed it's a quick and easy exchange to change a 2fy long hose and you don't have to pull the whole hose out of the rigging.

That's how mine is but with a bracket and going thru the transom I have the 3in bulkhead fitting's.

Here's the Teleflex part #'s.

Bulkhead fitting kit = Part # HF5512

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/FITTINGS/HF5512.gif

Here's the page to pick the part #'s for hose's.
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBO...ose_Tube.htm&1

Surplus Unlimited in Daytona has the best price's. They beat the price's I got on 3 other quote's and that included having to pay Fl. sales tax.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

I disagree. The way Hogwart wants to do it would add four more hose end fittings, the two bulkhead fittings and more places for leaks and corrosion. In my experience the problems with steering hoses develop at the fittings. I would keep it as simple as possible. Leave enough slack somewhere to be able to change out the fittings at the cyl. if needed in the future and you should enjoy many years of uninterrupted service. ;)

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

so is the fitting on marks 20 something that i can put over my existing hose? or do i need to get a new hose altogether?

warthog do u have any pics of ur steering setup on ur mako?

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Blue197320,

I think this is the same product that Mark and others have on their boats.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M...og/219_101.pdf

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

It's close dcobbett, but Teleflex has the mounting flange on it molded to the hose. I belive.

There are 2] 24ft hose's and 2] 3ft hose's. This is just for the lower helm. The upper helm has 3] 14ft hose's that go from the upper to the lower helm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120948.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120949.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120950.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120951.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120952.jpg

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Mine are the same but, the "extra" hose sheath shoud be on the cylinder end and not the stationary end.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

that is a VERY clean set up. i like it alot. my other issue is about that rigging tube going to the engine.. im gonna have to make something for that...

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Some older motor's do not have a cuff to accept the rigging hose.
It is then left open, but I don't like it as it is a way for water to get in the boat. It's not usually a problem, but doesn't look near as good.

I debated that back and forth reelescape1. With the cuff restraint's on the ram it pulled harder on the bulkhead fitting's, due to extending them farther away. I checked Teleflex's site and found no imfo on that subject.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

i wanted to try to make something that went into the cowl out of maybe PVC pipe or something similar..

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

I just replaced mine or I wouldn't have remembered. The teleflex paper instructions say to have it on the cylinder end, probably because of all the movement, tilting, steering, etc. One of the two hoses I installed has it on both ends which brings up the question...Why not have them on both ends of every hose??? I don't think you'll have a problem, just an observation!! :)

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

does anyone have a reason why i should not use wood flour and resin mixed to mayonnaise or peanut butter to fill the 3/4" holes for the actuator? since the holes do not need to be that big i was going to fill them with that mixture and drill a 9/16" (i beleive) hole for the tube. any other suggestions?

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

no one has any cons of using wood flour ? im trying to stay as watertight as possible here

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

Hey Blue - I guess in a possible water contact application I would not use wood flour - there are other, better choices -

Don't know what resin you're using, but check out West Systems - they have a variety of fillers / thickeners that will do what you want to thicken up some resin, which I believe will work equally well with either epoxy or polyester resins - just a thought for you.

The console work looks like it's coming out nice !!!

keep the pix coming!

Bill

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

im using polyester resin. i got some micro balloons to make a fairing compound. workin out good so far. my sander crapped out. :mad: would a strait line sander be the best choice? was going to get a belt sander with a fine belt and take down the rough stuff and finish with a 1/3 sheet sander. i will keep up with the pics.

updates with pics
 

i have made some progress since last post. these were the hardest holes ive ever drilled (3/4"). http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0095.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0096.jpg
then i filled it in with resin.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0101.jpg
and drilled it out to 9/16" to keep a barrier around that wood.http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0099.jpg
i have to plug my bilge thru hull for some previous owner rigs. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0097.jpg
now they are on. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0106.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0107.jpg
that gives me a bone.. looks very sexy. i like to see things come together. now im going to let the 5200 dry and cut it with a razor blade and scrape the drips off. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0109.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0108.jpg
any comments guys??

Re: updates with pics
 

Clean the wet 5200 with mineral spirits and paper towels or disposable rags or you are gonna be hating life after it cures. ;)

Re: updates with pics
 

i used the fast cure. but i got home from work in time to get it off with acetone. is 5200 my best bet for sealing this ? would it be safe to use regular clear silicone?

Re: updates with pics
 

As far as I know- silicone should NEVER be used below the waterline.
I like to use a product by 3M(?) - 101(?)
I believe it is called.
Gives excellent adhesion & never dries out.
Fittings can be removed in the future w/o any damage to the fitting or glass - unlike 5200.
It is a rare occasion that I would use the 5200.

Re: updates with pics
 

doug,
is this the stuff u are refferring to? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0
how hard is it to remove if needed??

a few more update pics
 

i got the console bonded from the inside. All the white area by the wood is thickened epoxy putty for fillets.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0120.jpg
Time to start workin on the outside.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0121.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0122.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0123.jpg

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

how comes i keep getting lillte "pin" holes in the microballoon/resin mixture i used for fairing compound? what do i do to fix it? its driving me nuts!

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

It's from the air in the mixture. You could try mixing slower although I have found that doesn't help much. Or use a high build primer after the fairing is complete. I'm sure others will chime in with recomendations.
You could also use a premade fairing compound. I have seen others use Quik Fair by System three, it is packed under a vacuum so no bubbles, but I have not used it myself so I do not have first hand experience.

Hope that helps, Good Luck. Pin holes suck.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

I have also rolled on a thin coat of epoxy on after the fairing is done to fill some of the pinholes but is a bitch to sand afterwards, wetsanding a must. Heat from a gun will also burst some of the bubbles. It works OK on small parts but for a large area I would go the surfacing primer route.

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

bryan,
thanks for the reply. i am going to try to high build primer method first because thats the stage of the rebuild im in. thanks again..

Re: updates with pics
 

Hey, Sorry for the delay- I lost the post. Anyway - yes, that is the sealant- 3M 101. Works very nice, not all runny like BoatLife. It is not to bad to remove,unlike the 5200 which is near impossible, acetone when still wet, razor when dry.
With the epoxy, go for the brown thickener, I'll look up the # tomorrow. It is called the "low density" filler by West Systems, it sands out real nice.
As far as pinholes, do not heat the area after the epoxy is rolled out- the heat will generate air bubbles from the wood substrate, you can heat it before hand and then apply the epoxy afterwards
Good luck -Doug :cool:

Re: updates with pics
 

what about if the resin is already dry ? i am noticing the pin holes alot more after i put the primer down.. i will try the west system stuff u reccommend when i go to do the inside of the boat. keep the help coming please

Re: updates with pics
 

Looks very nice I like what you are doing with your console.

Try not to use anymore 5200 unless you doing something under the waterline, thruhull etc, and even then some would still stay away, switch to a silcone sealant or 4200

also I could not tell from the pictures so you may of alreadt done this but if not next time you drill a hole in the gelcoat, like mounting holes for your tab actuators, use a counter sink before you sink the screw. The counter sink will alleviate the possibilty of spider cracking.

Also listen to Hermco do not add unecesary fittings with your hydraulic steering. expesially when they are in the elements. Same goes for any electrical connection.

To see what the elements do look at this picture from Warthogs setup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/P4120949.jpg



see how the chrome plated brass fitting around his engine rigging tube is already greening?, try not to use chrome plated brass/bronze unless you like polishing, stick with stainless, not quite the shine but will never turn green.

Although the picture may be mis-leading as I would never expect this type of tarnish from Warthog. (just razzing you Bobby as I imagine it is already glistining)

Re: 1973 20 SF changes/improvements and a question
 

I think you need to add more filler and less microballoons to the mixture. You may have to put several coats of sanding primer over it to get rid of the pin holes. System 3 quick fair is the only way to go in my opinion. Once you have tried it you wont want to use anything else. It dries fast and is as smooth as butter.

strick

Re: updates with pics
 

trayder, thanks for the compliment. it is my first attempt at fiberglass. when i drilled the holes in the gel coat there was masking tape on the gel coat. i think for my motor rigging im just going to use the rubber boot with the tie-wrap at the end and run everything thru there.
strick, do you mean more filler as in cabosil or milled fibers or silica from west system? i am going to look into getting some of the system 3 product. i am willing to try anything.

Re: updates with pics
 

I've pretty much quite mixing my own a long time ago. Pinhole's are a PITA and yes when the primer goes on it will show all kind's of stuff.

System 3 Quik fair is what I use. You may still get a few pinhole's but nothing like you will with stirring your concoction's together.

http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=17

Those TH marine hose cuff's are chrome plated plastic. I was actually going to try and wax/polish them today. the rest of them on the boat are just Black plastic.

http://www.classicmako.com/bobby/Finish%20Work5.JPG

There are 2 more Black one's for the rigging tube going to the crow's nest.

Re: updates with pics
 

warthog, does the system 3 stuff ever go bad? i was thinking about gettin the 1.5 or 3 qt kit and keep the left over in my garage? i like how custom ur mako is. very sweet.

moved to the inside of the boat
 

ok well since i have made the console more narrow, i had to modify the inside of the boat a little. it used to have a place molded into the floor for the wires to go thru into the console.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0085.jpg
so i had to cut that out .
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0135.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0134.jpg
i will post more pics tomorrow and explanation of how im going to modify this portion of the floor or suggestions would be great.

Re: a few more update pics
 

It has been a while since i worked on my boat. i too lost motivation but get it back watching fishing shows on saturday morning. the old console had the cooler in the front with both my batteries located in the rear. i have made a battery compartment and cooler combo. the batteries will go on the left and cooler on the right. [image]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0196.jpg[/image] [image]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0194.jpg[/image]
also got everything cut out and ready to have steering and throttle and trim tab switch mounted. need to have paint and have the dash made up still. [image]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0195.jpg[/image]

Re: a few more update pics
 

ok i got the cooler all done except for the drain and im going to cover all the foam with cloth to make it durable as the adult beverages are banging around in there. it is contsructed of 3/4" home insulation foam with 2 layers on the bottom. polyester resin ate up the foam so i went back to west system epoxy for this. I am thinking about just drilling a 1" hole with and a rubber drain plug like my original one was. here are pics of the completed cooler. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0197.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0198.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0199.jpg
This is where i am at with my floor modification. this portion of the floor is not really going to be stood on too much as it is right next to the console. so it will be filled up with plywood and 1.5 oz mat. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0165.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0166.jpg
any comments are appreciated as always.
-evan

the floor section is in!
 

i got the section of floor fully glassed in today. :cool: luckily the boat is in the shade as it is 90+ degrees in miami today. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0/IMG_0200.jpg
i was tryin to use some west system with 206 slow hardener on my cooler today but since that is sitting in the sun i think it triggered the reaction too fast. the mixture started smoking and started the melt the container i had it in :mad: