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new wiring- grounding plate
I'm re-wiring my 23cc and am wondering about a grounding plate or strap as I have heard it called. I can not find one anywhere in the bilge. Just wondering if boats this size should have one. I'm in S.W. Florida and the summer storms get crazy down here. Just replaced my fuel filler hose and there was a wire for grounding the filler going to nowhere. I guess I'll run a new wire and connect it to the sender. Just wonder what eveyone else has done for lightning protection. I also need to put a new vhf anteana up, not sure if I should get regular or extra-crispy :eek:
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Re: new wiring- grounding plate
I take that no one else has a grounding plate either! :D
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Re: new wiring- grounding plate
I attached my green wire to my brass water pick scoop then ran it to my CC and then attached EVERYTHING to it including the gas tank and the T-Top. Your outboard motor has one as well but I figured that’s not a good idea just incase of a strike.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
in Florida, the lightening capital of the world, grounding plates are ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL!!
Here's a link: Grounding Plate 8" and on ebay: Grounding plate |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Someone please elaborate on this setup. No T-Top on my boat, and I have been fortunate enough over the years never to have had any close calls but you never know.
I guess the thunderstorm outside right now is motivating my concern... |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Grounding plate are boat lightning rods. Your wanting to divert the current out of human’s harm way and diffuse the current. The grounding plate is the way to go but on most trailer boats not to many people install them. Your outboard has a wire attached to it to use the lower unit as a exit but that will not keep you or your electronics safe. By attaching everything to the under water bait pump scoop “at least you are directing the potential surge”. You are not diffusing the charge just hopefully directing it from harms way. With a 8’ beam boat having a lot of stuff under the hull that can causing cavitation to the props can be a problem plus you want to allow a fork lift and your bunks free access to the bottom especially if you ever need to have a forklift lift up your boat from your trailer. Another issue is they will cost you approx $100. not that much but I ask my self do I really need it?? kind of like insurance. If you needed it it’s already to late in get it. I don’t like being in thunder storms on boats and I will pull the plug and call it a day if this becomes a issue, plus my re direction of current to a safe exit is just another minor project and makes me feel a little better. I know it’s not the best but if I ever get Zapped my bet God must have a SeaCraft in heaven for me to mess with.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D :D |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
What gauge wire would you use to divert to the scoop.I don't know the dynamics of the electricl charge of a lightning strike, but all that juice must be able to fry the insulation off . thanks for the responses. I was starting to think no one cared about me :(
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Re: new wiring- grounding plate
It is called bonding the hull. Fr. Frank posted several
links to get them. The bigger the better. All metal objects, IE: Grab rails, T-Tops, rod holders, cleats, etc, etc. should have an insulated tin coated copper wire (I used 10 guage and a 8 inch bronze plate) attached to every screw that goes to all of the above mentioned and tied to the bonding plate. It is a lot of work, but at least if I ever get struck, my chances of survival have been greatly improved. The only thing is when moored and the water is "Hot" which means someone has a leak in there electrical system you can get electrolysis real quick. Take your time and do a little wiring at a time. You will be glad you did,if you ever get struck!!!! See ya, Ken [image]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...Picture080.jpg[/image] |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Great stuff guys thanks!
I stumbled across a few more good links on this subject: http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d000001...7/d000007.html ftp://ftp.mdsg.umd.edu/Public/MDSG/lightning.pdf http://www.marinelightning.com/science.htm |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Thanks Guys, You guys do care about me!!! I doesn't look like lightning protection comes stock on small craft. Now that I have the info, I guess I'll have to take my time and do it right. Thanks again! I love this site. Very active. :)
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Re: new wiring- grounding plate
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u neds to put #6 black grond wire on yer big toe then puts yer foot over da side whin you take a leak. u be safe and dunt get struck and no elicktolsis ya talkin abots see ya sam |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Like Fellow-Ship said... what about cavitation? Where are you supposed to put it? On the transom below the water line? Then how you get the zillion wires to it? Another through-hull? I was trying to figure out how to get rid of all my through-hulls, but I don't really feel like getting zapped and we have zillions of little thunderstorms in the summertime.
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Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Ha Muddy Water
You can’t put it on the transom because when you are running the boat the transom is out of the water, so it has to be under the hull which makes placement a issue. I have a scoop, and transducer down there now so I Can't put it in front of them, plus the prop Can't put it in front of it. I am also thinking about underwater lights when I night fish so there is two other locations messed up plus the bunks for the trailer and the chins for the forklift if needed. These grounding plates are made of brass but the reason they cost approx $100.00 is because it is specially designed to disperse a charge. I guess you can put it behind something else but again for me at least it is attached to something brass. Maybe someday I will but one behind my scoop instead of attaching to the scoop. If you think along Spidercrack’s line of thinking than all you got to do is jump up into the air Exactly at the same moment that the lighting hits with out toughing anything on the boat and you will be just fine. But looking at Spidercrack’s aviator I don’t think he could jump that high much less time his jump correctly. FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D :D |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
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ole Sam, thats funny. You consistantly amaze me with your words of wisdom http://floridasportsman.com/art/dupe.gif |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
Best place is 4"-6" off the centerline, about 2' forward of the transom. That way it's in the water even at high speeds, offset enough to allow smooth water to the lower unit, and far enough forward to allow transducers to still function well. They only protrude 1/4" to 3/8" below the hull and are semi-faired already. See Ken's photo above.
The grounding plate is honeycombed bronze, and my 8"x3" plate has over 30 SQUARE FEET of grounding area. Thats like having a grounding sheet 3 feet wide and ten feet long on the bottom of your boat. I also ground everything to mine using 6 ga. battery cable or 10 ga. wire. |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
You know, I just thought of a place that I need to run a wire to My Steering Wheel. I am always in contact with it and that could be a major problem.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :o |
Re: new wiring- grounding plate
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I got a ground for you :o http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/krn54/ts.jpg Bye bye, Ken |
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