Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

otherwise known as, Back to the Grind -

Having fished my boat pretty hard over the last couple years, learning and enjoying it's capabilities, I've slowly been scheming improvements, finding things needing fixing, and wanting to make upgrades to improve fishability, and wanting to clean her up and give it a cosmetic makeover, so, starting with what she was -

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/timetogo.jpg

the laundry list includes:
- fixing the forward bulhead, connecting the inner liner back to the hull (a discussion CSN, Fr. Frank, and I have shared) these pix show how it's seperated, creating a loose feeling in the boat - note pix are at partial repair stage-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/cabinend.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...innerright.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2.../innerleft.jpg

I also have been wanting to clean off the old bottom paint, and Carla's bowrider project pretty well convinced me - so here's to the grinding -

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...bottomsand.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...layer/Logo.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...rippedlogo.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...sandedlogo.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/sideshot.jpg

Fishability - this boat, to pull a proper tuna spread, needed more rod holders, especially to go along with the 15' outriggers I picked up. I found the original rod holders lightly thru bolted (size 10 hardware) directly into uncored fiberglass in the gunnels, so first I did up some 3/8" core pieces, which were glassed under the gunnels, and then new rod holders installed.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...yer/plates.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...rodholders.jpg

so, more bottom grinding to do, outrigger holders to install, looks like I might be picking up a stand-up bimini top, I'd bet on a fresh coat of white on the bottom, and new old style Sea Craft decals for the rear sides, and the new stainless logo's mounted on 3/8" mahogany, for somewhere on the cabin sides, just aft of the cabin windows -

will update as progress dictates -

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Bill - nice job of removing the bottom paint w/o much damage to paint underneath! That's something I need to do when I get around to working cosmetic stuff. The emblems look nice on the wood plates; I was just going to mount mine below side windshield aft of the bimini support; further forward they're blocked by bow rail. If you go with a bimini top, I've come up with a way to support the bimini top off the windshield that really stiffens it up side-to-side, such that you can hang on to it when walking around side deck to get to bow anchor. Might also work on a Tsunami/Scepter depending on where support bow is anchored. Also have a similar scheme that works real well for support of VHF antenna. (Mine is mounted on port side; wanted to keep stbd side clear for easy access to front deck.) Will post photos when I get a chance. Also, if you'll send me your e-mail, I'll send spreadsheet with performance data on old 115 vs. 150 E-tec + bracket.

I checked the fg tabbing on my forward bulkhead yesterday and it's solid, no cracks! :) I also have no big cracks at top of cabin door, just a small craze crack on one side. Also fixed my leaking scuppers and tested yesterday - was out for about 6 hrs and bilge was dry! (Need to post pictures of epoxy fill with pvc core for redrilling on a leaking scupper thread; wanted to verify it worked first!) Also tried the "Vortex" pvc check valves in the scuppers that Fellowship posted a couple of years ago. Version with the glove tip works great; the one with plastic flap not so great; I think the flap sits open too much, so need to find a better source for the plastic. These things work well enough that, as long as the boat is self bailing at rest with no one aboard, which mine is with the Potter bracket, I don't see the need for raising the deck. I think the Seafari deck was raised about 1-2" around '75 or 76, as a friend of mine bought a new one then and the scupper wells were deeper on his. Also his stepdown was smaller, just big enough to open the cabin door, which allowed room for a longer gas tank, ~50 gal vs 34 on mine.
Good look on the updates! Denny

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Denny - Thanks for the thoughts - be glad to check that data - send to - oldbluesplayer@yahoo.com

Also, I know I need to replace my scupper tubes - I shot you a question on the tubes source, in the scupper thread - I looked in BOW website and couldn't find those ?

Next up is some side mount Outrigger mounts, a'la Nestor's old Seafari - I love that setup, and those mounts will drive where the seacraft plaques go.

I have replacement decals for the stern, same web source as somebody else recently pointed out. In removing the old ones, totally weathered out, I was amazed at how much the gelcoat had weathered away - once the old decals were removed, the surface protected by the decal must have stood proud above the surrounding gelcoat by .015 - .020 in - very noticeable, as can be seen in the photo's - pretty much the same held true for the old boot stripe tape, and that was a cast iron bee-itch to try to level out - I couldn't get it anywhere near as good as at the stern decal locations.

Spent the weekend redoing the hull sides - 200 grit dry, 320 grit dry, 600 grit wet, 1500 grit wet, followed by powered rubbing compound, then 3-M Finesse-It on the orbital buffer.... and I can still see where those darn boot stripes were :D :mad:

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Hi Bill, great start! She's gonna look great when you're finished. About my outrigger setup, I wasn't very happy with its actual function although I agree they looked nice. The problem was that the cockpit sides tumble in a bit and if you install the side mounts flush to the fiberglass the outriggers are at too high an angle when you open them up. I suggest you do either of the following:

1. Install the TACO Sports Slam outrigger mounts on the side decks. These mounts have many different settings where you can lay them back at an angle like mine but still open correctly when deployed. You can find them for about $350 in the internet. This was going to be my next choice if I had kept the boat and they fit perfectly (I measured the base already) on the side deck about 6-12 inches behind the helm chair where they are readily accessible to the helmsman for deploying. They use the TACO 15 foot poles but will accept any other poles if you drill a small hole on the pole base for the retention pin to fit. I did it with my Tigress telescoping poles and they fit perfectly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...OSportSlam.jpg

2. Install the side mounts like I did but place a wedge (metal, wood or any other material) between the top mounting pad and the vertical cockpit side to ensure the mounts are perpendicular to the deck and not leaning inwards like mine were, this way you'll get an optimum angle on the poles when deployed to fish.

Contact me if you have any questions.

Good luck and keep posting pictures! :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Bill - I have the Lee's outriggers with flush mount base similar to rodholders. They work well and appear to be a much cleaner installation than the Taco unit nestor showed, although you do have to drill about a 1.5" angled hole in gunnel and install backing plate underneath. They have notches in the base that lock them at 0, 45, and 90 degrees. My poles are KGS aluminum telescoping type and when stowed measure 6'10" including the chrome/brass holder. I mounted the base about where the bow rail comes down to the deck, which puts the ends of the poles about flush with transom. I angled the base so the poles lie between the vent scoops and cockpit coming when they're laid down.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

I tried those but you can't lean them back at an angle, they either lay flat on the gunnel, out (deployed) at 45 degrees to fish and straight up at 90 degrees when not used. I like the my poles leaned back a la "Big Sportfisherman" when not deployed and I think that's what made my setup so cool. Unfortunately, the only way to have that with a normal "skiff" type outrigger is to have rod-holder type bases made that are at 90 degrees from the deck instead of the standard 45 degrees so the 45 degree angle base on the pole will lean back at a 45 degree angle and still deploy correctly when fishing. I guess you could take a pair of standard outrigger bases (Lee, TACO, Tigress, etc, they're all designed the same way, 45 degree angle) to a SS welder and have them change it from a 45 to a 90 degree angle, that would give the rake you want and still be very fishable.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

The outrigger kit I got came with the gunnel / skiff style mounts - I remember Nestor talking about the functionality issue before- but the more I think about it, the more I'm going for the side mount, and Nestor's #2 solution, putting a shim pad under the upper mount to position the holder correctly - Nestor - did you install any backing / reinforcement to the inside of the sidewall area where you mounted yours - I'm thinking it would be a good idea.

thanks !!

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Yes I did, the cockpit sides are too thin and flexible to take the load. I made an aluminum backplate twice as big as the mounts to help disperse the torsional forces. If I were to do it again and had better access, I would have first fiberglassed in a 1 foot square piece of 1/4" or 1/2" marine plywood on the backside of the side panel and then installed the aluminum plate behind that so the nuts and washer won't dig into the fiberglass/wood; with the aluminum plate alone I still had quite a bit of flexing, especially when trolling large mullet or ballyhoo. Anything to stiffen the area and disperse the torsional forces will help. The problem is that there's very little space to work in between the two fiberglass vertical surfaces. Here's a rough sketch of what I would do:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...riggerbase.jpg

Hope this helps!

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

By the way, here were my plans for the "ultimate" Seafari 20:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...20witharch.jpg

I estimated about 50k including the engine and I/O combo but who has that kind of moolah?? Now, on a Seafari 25 this would be a sweet setup except with twin 190's or a single 350-400 diesel with duoprop outdrive. :rolleyes:

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Nestor, you're right, can only run with the conventional type in 2 positions. I always wanted them laying flat for running; just prefer to have stuff well supported in case it gets rough.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

I'm with you, you need the support or it will crack the glass all around it. After installing mine on the sides, the next riggers will be on the deck which is a LOT stiffer for the best support, especially with longer poles. I couldn't catch any fish anyway (that's what "botapeje" means in Puerto Rico: BAD FISHERMAN!!!) but I looked cool!! :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Nestor - your thoughts match mine on the "ultimate" Seafari.

I put 3/8" ply reinforcement under the new rod holders, as the gunnels are not cored, and was expecting to do the same for the outrigger side mounts.

Spent another 2 hours sanding old bottom paint off last night, it's finally getting there - dam, is that a messy, painful job. And, now that I've got it almost done, I'm thinking of just doing the bottom red, whereas I was planning on doing the same white, from the chines down, that Carla did on the 65 bowrider project. Hopefully get a fully sanded pic, and other progress, up this weekend.

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Shes gonna look sweet with the new bimini&curtains!! ;)

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

More progress this weekend - finished the bottom cleaning, sanding, painting, and added the replacement decals -

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...paint-prep.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...in-process.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...int-finish.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ayer/decal.jpg

I'm seeing reports that the tuna are in on Stellwagen Bank already - now I gotta start pushin !!!

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Looks really great....what paint did you put on the bottom..???

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Interlux, with their reducer, thru a spray gun. I'll be keeping it on a trailer, so I'm hoping that will hold up well - did a trial shot, let it dry overnight, tried power sanding it, it seemed to have real good adhesion, so that's what I went with.

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Looks Good Bill!
What type of Interlux? More Please :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

TheHermit - I used Interlux Brightsides, and their 216 thinner, thru a standard spray gun, think I was running about 45 psi at the gun, with a dryer on the line. If you were going to brush, or roll & tip, you would use their #333 thinner, instead. The Brightsides is basically their low end paint, there are a couple other, higher end choices - maybe if I ever paint the sides, I'd go there, but not for the bottom. Now that I've got the new decals back on, I can't wait to wax and buff the sides - what you see in the latest pix is just at the compounded and washed phase - the 3M Finesse-It worked quite well.

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

WOW that looks so much better with the bottom paint off, keep going so you can get some Tuna. To bad the those young bucks are so far away now, although mines here and I can't get any help anyway-that other gender affliction :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

hEY WHAT DID YOU USE TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM PAINT? gRINDER? WITH WHAT KIND OF DISC?

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

ESD - I've been wanting to strip the bottom since I got the boat - it probably had 30 years of accumulated bottom paint on it, the previous, and original, owner, kept it in the water - that bottom paint was so thick, and yet so leached out from immersion, that it looked like the boat was wearing a worn out scotch-brite pad, as a diaper !! So, I can't wait to see what a slick bottom does for performance !!!

How ? Dirtiest job I ever did - jack the boat up, crawl underneath, and go at it with a disc sander - 40 grit and 80 grit, then with an orbital sander with 100 grit ---

Warning !!! if you do this, wear a respirator, face mask, and coveralls !!!!! and even at that, I could only stand 2 hour stretches at most, and crawled out from under looking like a blue raccoon from the dust - strip in the laundry room, and head straight for the shower !! there were nights I just could not bring myself to dive in - overall, it took me 6 or 7 sessions, 1.5 - 2 hours each - and absolute arm breakers, holding a power tool up over your head.

I did hand wax and machine buff the hull sides tonight - and my arms just about fell off, but it looks good.

Now, back to that front bulkhead. And a trailer hub that needs to be stripped and new bearings installed.

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Bill,

She's really looking beautiful!
We had an interlux expert come out & look at our boat after painting. On the bow stem, just below the tow ring, the paint rubbed off due to it rubbing on the V-stop on the trailer. He told us it takes a good 3 months for the paint to completely cure. Other than that, we're very pleased with the interlux.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Looking good!! Love the red on white look. I also agree on bottom paint, if the boat's gonna live on a trailer, why paint the bottom??!! I think that bottom paint's only for boats that will stay on the water for weeks at a time, it also will rob some top mph. If someonw wants the "look" of bottom paint but will not keep the boat on the wtaer, then he/she should paint it with a much slicker hull paint like the one you used, Awlgrip or Imron, whichever will hold up better to the scuffing of trailering the boat. :rolleyes:

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

What about turning the radar arch the other direction? . . . I think it would give you much more fishing space.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Time for an update -

Whle I had the trailer jacked up in the air, I went thru and replaced most bolts with stainless - while crawling around under there I noticed a few that were critically rotten, also pulled the hubs and replaced bearings / races, and while I was at it, I dropped the axle and moved it back three inches, to get an increase in tongue weight.

Now for the fun stuff - I picked up the outrigger side mounts, and a bimini top from our very own Ben, down in Florida. based on Nestors input on mounting the outrigger holders, I worked up some spacer blocks, shaped some 3/8" ply, then glassed it, and sanded it back to shape....

Alright, some pix - mostly just roughed out for now, need a bunch of finishing yet...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/o-holder.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...holderlogo.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2.../topprelim.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...r/sideview.jpg

I'm scrambling - the tuna are in !!!

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Hi Bill,

Looking great, nice job! :) Not sure if you did or not, but did you put any backing material in the inside of the mounting area of the outriggers?

As others mentioned, there is a fair amount of flex in that area.

Don't worry about the tuna, no matter when you are ready they will be gone :D

- Nick

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

:cool: SWEET :cool:
Bill, How many coats went on the bottom?? Also what did it take for paint to get you there?

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Nick - yes - glassed in 3/8" ply, on the inside, extended well out past the mounting area.

Don't be kiddin me on the tuna, now - I'm readin the reports on reel-time...

What you been up to ? Heard a vague reference from Ed recently about a lumpy trip ??

spill it, man !!!

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Cool Bill,

I figured you did. Was it like night and day with a piece of ply in that area? I plan to do the same since my hardtop ties into that same area.

What the heck was Ed talking about??

- Nick

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Hermit -

I sprayed the bottom, Interlux Brightsides and their spray formula reducer, basically 2 coats in one shot - spray area A, wait for it to flash (just minutes) respray area A and extend into area B, flash, respray area B and extend into C, etc...

Nick -

I can't really tell you a before and after stiffness comparison, but I knew, and Nestors post confirmed, that that area would have to be beefed up, so it only got trial rigged without the backer, not bolted up tight - actually still haven't bolted it up tight for final yet, as those spacer blocks still have to come back off and get painted. Just as an FYI - I did Not make the backer plates as uniform rectangles - I looked at the metal backing plates offered for sale for these things, they aren't much bigger than the bolt hole pattern - that's not big enough to properly spread the load out. My plates are like 14" long, by nearly the height of the side wall, and are tapered in the outer 3" each side - imagine a rectangle with a trapezoid added at each end - forcing loads into different directive angles, to spread them even further.

just another damn engineer over doing it !! :D :D

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Bill - nothing wrong with a little overkill! We used the belt & suspenders approach on Pratt engines a lot! Here's another example of structural overkill:(The VHF and bimini brace photos I promised to send.)
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...FBraces004.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...FBraces002.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...FBraces001.jpg

The bimini braces really stiffen it up, so the bows can be used as handholds when going around stbd side to front deck. When I want to fold the bimini, just pull the screw out of jaw fitting on bimini frame.

On the VHF antenna (a 9'9" Phelps-Dodge 9 db gain unit, mounted so tip is flush w/transom when laid down), I fg'd a wood block and a couple of pad eyes to a 1" ID x 33" schedule 40 PVC pipe and slid it down over the antenna. Attached the 2 ss turnbuckles to windshield frame with pad eyes/pins and used fastpins at antenna end. The turnbuckles pull the wood block up snug against the bimini brace, so the whole deal is fairly rigid. When antenna is lowered, I just connect the turnbuckle ends with one of the pins, and that locks them out away from the glass. Looks a little ratty because the 20 year old paint is peeling off, but it works well - it's a soft enough support at the antenna to allow it to move a little and avoid a concentrated stress, but it takes most of the cantilever bending load off the deck. Mount scheme would probably work on a Scepter also.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Bill,
The boat looks great! You may now qualify as one of the
"Gold Spoon Trailer Queens" :D
But the "Spidercrab" 2x8 gin pole may hold you back. :o
Keep up the good work...
See ya, Ken

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

alright - without the "spidercrab" gin pole :D

it's coming.....slowly

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...yer/newtop.jpg


Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Oldbluesplayer,
It really is "looking good!" Keep up the good work.

I must say, I first thought that I saw a raydome mounted between the bowrail, but realized it is a backboard for a basketball hoop. It reminded me for a moment of the guys on the 33' Egg's and 32' Silvertons who end their child bearing years by mounting their radar arrays on the front of the flybridge. The RF fries the "Family Jewels", not something any of us want to do! ;) ;) ;)

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

The boat looks great! From what you describe the riggers will work very well and you shouldn't have any flex. Those tuna better look out, Oldblues is coming!! :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

a post sea trials update -

Finally got everything (well almost) done, close enough to go fishing. early on I talked about, and showed, how the forward bulhead had cracked out the tabbing, here's the repair - turned out to be very significant -

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ntbulkhead.jpg

Also got all the basic fishability improvements done - the boat can work a six rod spread now - not that I can handle that when fishing solo, but I have the gear to do it

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...eadytofish.jpg

First trip out, just did southern CCB, fingers and Billingsgate - some good chop over there - I immediately noticed that the forward bulhead repair really tightened the boat up - a real improvement over the looseness I felt last year - everybody with a Seafari needs to check this.

Second trip out, last friday, the morning was calm, so I headed up to Stellwagen SWC. The stiffener plates for the outrigger mounts definitely did the job, those work solid. Hooked, but lost, one fish. saw tuna on the surface which made me doubt that even the Senator 114's were adequate - these were BIG fish. Spent some time over by Peaked Hill Bar, around the backside, and then decided to go home around 2pm - thought I'd fish my way down the Bay..... NOT.

came around Race Point, straight into a very strong SW breeze, that obviously had been working awhile. For myself, and another fellow from reel-time, we fought 6 footers all the way down the bay - took me over three hours from Race Point to Sandwich.

The Seacraft can do it. She was solid as a rock, all the way. I'm just not sure I can. Felt like I was doing a personal re-enactment of the Perfect Storm movie. Had blisters on my right hand fingers from gripping the wheel so tight, for so long.

Time, for a time out.

Bill

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

She looks fantastic! Bet she looked good running down those 6 footers but I agree, that's something better left for the young'ns! That's why my wife insisted I sell the 20 and get another boat with a sharper "V", she hates it when the boat pounds on a choppy sea! :D

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

OBP,
How much fuel do you carry in your 20? That is a pretty good poke to be able to leave Sandwich (I assume the basin) fish the SWC of Stellwaggen, run around the corner and then pound your way home at 12 knots, spending more time going up and down than you were forward from the point.

I've got 76 that is pretty close to yours with a replacement tank. (I still need to post some pictures). Its got the I/O (140, approx '84). Dimensions tell me its approx 30 gallons, not sure how much is usable (that is always a tough one to completely determine). Down in CT now. I'm still trying to get a handle on my fuel consumtion. I'm still a little over wheeled (19x14, should be the 17" stainless, next season) but I cruise 21-23 knots, turning 3300-3400 ( I know its apple to oranges yours to mine). Just wondering if you carry an extra tank or two and transfer once you get there. Engineer things i guess, being overly conservative.

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Nestor -

Wish I had been running them down, running down a following sea would have been easier, but I was going head on into them... water over the bow more than a few times - the big ones seemed to come in sets, close coupled, up and over the first, and smack into the face of the next, and the third - if a buddy boat had been with me, they'd have been able to get shots of an airborn Seafari more than a few times !!

Kahuna - the specs page says the IO gas tank, original, was 38 gal, and the OB model is 47 gal - that is pretty accurate to mine. I have done the trip from the basin, out the ditch, up to Race Point, then out to SWC, troll around awhile, and back to the basin, several times. But then, last year, with all the talk about ethanol effects, I went out early in the season, staying close in, with a spare tank, to try to run the tank dry - and found that I was still running at a full 1/4 tank -Below- "E" on the guage - then I filled up and still only took 40 gal, so probably about 6 gal or so left in the tank, though I don't know at what point the pick-up won't - I figure 6 gal in my tank is only about 1" deep.

On this particular day, because I had also gone out and around the corner to Peaked Hill Bar, and because it was rough and I knew I had a bad slog home, I did go into P-Town and gas up, (took 20 gal) before I headed south to the ditch - just to get from RP to the P-Town gas dock took me 45 min, left there at 3pm, back in the basin at 6pm. That was one hell of an Ugly ride I don't care to repeat.

Scary Bits -

when I pulled the boat out, and got it up in the parking lot to prep for the trip home, and pulled the drain plug, a Lot of water came out. I was too tired to sweat it at the time, and I know my float switch needs about 5" above the bottom of the V before turn on. Sat, when I went out to flush the motor, I discovered that the bilge pump hose had seperated from the thru-hull fitting, leaving me with an open hole in the side of the boat, and a bilge pump doing nothing useful.

Also, coming down the Bay, the motor had acted a little rough, not really bad, but noticeable; seeing the water in the bilge, then discovering the pump scenario, i thought perhaps water sloshing around inside may have given me some electrical problems. Just to check, I pulled the spark plugs, was going to run a compression test - found one of the plugs had the electrode bent in shorting to the center pin, and obviously wasn't firing, and all fouled up. I'm damn sure glad that motor kept running, but think I'm facing a teardown and rebuild now - at least going to pull the head, and see what I see - might have been a chunk of carbon, but expecting worse.

Argghhhhh !!!! :eek: :D :mad:

Re: Project Seafari Tuna-fication
 

Glad to hear that you found the culprits for the water and they were easy to fix! Hope the engine thing is nothing big and will be easy to fix, cross your fingers!