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Started 20' upgrade and restore
Got some work done the past couple of days and I wanted to share because of all the knowledge that has been shared with me here. I removed all the rigging, console, bench seat, livewell. Then it was time to tear the decks out. This took about an hour to tear out. The only part of the deck that wasnt rotted was the outside perimeter where I ran the circular saw around. The only thing that was holding the decks together was the fiberglass on top. Someone who had no idea what they were doing tried to add fiberglass and some plywood slapped together to the stringers. The coffin for the gas tank was made out of pine 2x3s from home depot with nothing on them. I took 130 pounds of rotten wood out of the bilge and gas tank so called support. The foam in between the stringers was wet on the bottom so I took a spade shovel and made short work of that. The gas in the tank was the only thing holding it in place. The tank is only 4 years old and I am taking it back the tank builder and having it cleaned, tested and painted. To my suprise the transom is in great shape from what I can see and feel.
I plan on raising the decks 3 inches and fix the stringers to the transom. I plan on making the deck in a one peice mold. I plan on using marine ply where I need to mount stuff and core cell and other places to save on weight. Also large scuppers are in the plans. [image]http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/DSCN0509.jpg?t=1198564204[/image] [image]http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0514.jpg[/image] [image]http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/DSCN0515.jpg?t=1198562632[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0522.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0524.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0534.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0556.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0557.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0564.jpg[/image] [image]http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/th_DSCN0563.jpg[/image] [image]http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n213/rocky0707/DSCN0580.jpg?t=1198564695[/image] |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
anyone want to give me a little help with the photos? :D :D
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Billy,
At least you can now put it back right. That boat originally never had a below deck tank. I cant believe all of the work went bad ion only 4 years. Makes you wonder about the transom too as it seems to have been raised 5". Anyways I have the same stringer setup but you should build up your 3" like strick did and foam fill the stringers while you have access. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5275.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5320.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5324.JPG I think if you want to pour foam back in at this point I would stick with the outside bays only....someone else may have an epinion on this. Looks like your on your way |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Hermit I am doing exactly what strick did except I am going up an inch higher. I just ordered all the supplies today to start fixing everything. the only thing i am having trouble finding is 2" foam.
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Got some work done on the boat this week. I built molds for the stringers cut them to fit and glassed them into place. I grinded and grinded and grinded some more. That wasnt a typo! I ripped all the marine ply for stringers, screwed them together and coated them in polyester resin to seal them. I removed the motor and took a good look at the transom and it is in good shape I filled and glassed the the old drain holes. I decided to have the bottom soda blasted and they came on saturday. I took the boat off the trailer and blocked so they could blast it. I have sanded and grinded alot of bottoms and I figured I would give this a try and I am glad I did it was the best money ever spent. they took 4 coats of bottom paint off right down to the original gelcoat. I am considering having the hull sides blasted.
this week I am planning on glassing the stringers in and putting weep holes in the stringers for drainage. and start building the mold for the decks. I got my delivery of divyncell , PVA and duratec high build primer. here are some pics I might need some help with them :cool: http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0586.jpg [image] http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0590.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0592.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0593.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0595.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0598.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0603.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0635.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0637.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0654.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0658.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0652.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0642.jpg till next weekend! |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
When you post pic links...remove the ?t=1199669505 part....
anything after .jpg will break it... :rolleyes: |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
pictures do not work!!! :( :( :(
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
got it! I have ordered hydraulic steering and a pathfinder console should be here this week. also in the plans are a 45 gallon hammerhead livewell and 140 suzuki 4 stroke.
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Nice pics, I am interested in the blast work for the bottom. How is it priced? How long does it take? Can they control the amount of paint they remove?
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
et 23 I paid $30 a foot which was fair. I had estimates as high as 50 a foot :eek: They take all the bottom paint off to the original gelcoat. The only paint he said he has a problem with is the barrier coat epoxy.
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
That sounds reasonable, I use particle blasting for rotors and they are way more expensive. Some of the media they use remove metal. I will look into this as an alternative. I have used "Polar Blast" as few times but they did not work on what I was trying to clean.
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Quote:
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
got some stuff done on the boat this week. Got the stringers cabosiled in place and glassed. I filled the old drain holes, I installed the weep holes in the stringers. I have to tab the stringer to the transom and I am going to start building the one peice deck mold. I got my console and steering in this week
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0705.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0685.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0689.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0698.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0694.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0709.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0711.jpg till next time |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Well I should of spent the 500 bucks to have the whole hull soda blasted. I put 12 hours in to remove the 4 layers of paint and etching primer off the hull. It is done now and no more looking back. The paint was hard as a rock and the 7 inch polisher with the 80 grit green corps was the only thing cutting it. I would sand through 3 layer of paint to the primer and take the rest off with the 5 inch porter cable with 120 grit. I sanded the majority of the inside with 220 to smooth all the orange peel off. My plans for the up coming week are picking the tank up form SP tanks, make 3 fiberglass bulkheads, glassing up the platform for the gas tank. and start building the mold for the deck.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0747.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0750.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0752.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0753.jpg |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Got some stuff done on the boat this week. I made the 3 bulkheads, cabosiled and glassed them into place. I made 3/4 marine ply strips for the gas tank but I abandon them after I had trouble getting the glass wrapped around them and made a 1/2 inch fiberglass panel and ripped it into 4 strips for the gas tank supports. That way I know they will not rot. I made a fiberglass panel with a drainage dip into for below deck storage. I cleaned everything twice over and bilge coated the coffin for the gas tank and the below deck storage. I laid the neoprene down for the gas tank with 5200. I picked the tank up yesterday and they did a really nice job on it along with the epoxy coating. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0794.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0797.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0799.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0801.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0806.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0809.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0811.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0812.jpg |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
got some stuff done on sunday. I built the jig for the one peice deck mold.I used 8 big glue sticks and a full sheet of 1/8 laun. I built a Big laminating table for the one piece construction. 150 bucks to build the laminating table. also got my order of dyvinacel in.also cleaned up the garage it was a train wreck. I hauled 5 construction bags out and cleaned the work table up.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0816.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0820.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0826.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0830.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0815.jpg |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
You are hauling on this thing! Thats one big A$$ molding table. It will come in handy for other things as well. I like the jig you built. I may have missed this but what kind of power are you going with? keep the pics coming :cool:
strick |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Billy,
You are really moving on your project, and some fine work I might add. Building that molding table and making a jig for a one piece deck replacement leads me to believe you have done something like this before ;). BTW, I feel your pain on the keeping the garage clean thing, that's always an up hill battle :D. Keep the post coming! :D Lloyd |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
nice!!!
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Am I the only one that's not seeing the pic's under billythekid's posts?
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
That tank is too nice to put in a boat!! Nice work, what is the top of your laminating table made of?
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
thanks guys I am trying to keep things rolling.
Strick I am putting a suzuki 140 on it. It is going to be fun laminating down the middle! Captloyd I have built 5 or 6 decks and interiors this way and it works out really well. It shouls take me within an 1/8 of where I have to be. Tunaorlater SP tanks did a really nice job with the epoxy coating. The laminating table is melamine. 3 4x8 sheets butted up to each other and 5200 together underneath. They sell it at home depot for 23 bucks a sheet. It is like formica with particle board in the middle. I got everything centered on the mold and made the forms for the hatches and the access plates in the floor. I decided to go wtih a Hammerhead 45 gallon livewell, I like the construciton and the layout of the interior. The way its mounted it pretty slick. There is a flange that mounts to the floor and the outside shell slides over it. The hoses come up from underneath for a clean install. |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
I am waiting for a couple of things before I lay the floor mold up. I made the rim board of the floor mold out of azac board becuase it is flexable and very smooth. I pulled a string down the middle to center all the hatches and accesses. I have 2 freinds coming over to help do the laminating for the floor as It would be to much for one person. In the mean time I made some molds for different things,I made 2 floor flanges for where the rigging comes through the floor in the console and one for where the livewell hoses come up under the well These are to keep things from rolling into the bilge and to keep water off the top of the gas tank. The other pic of the square one is for the back corner of the boat where the engine rigging will come out. I made a groove in the mold at the bottom where the floor will get glassed into it. I installed a 3 inch rigging tube thru the stringer on a 45 degree angle for the livewell drain and intake hose. here are some of the picks. I also test fitted the gas tank and everything it going to work out.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0833.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0834.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0835.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0839.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0840.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0843.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0844.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0849.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0854.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0866.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0848.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0855.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0860.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0856.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0859.jpg |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Billy the Kid are you going to vaccuum bag your floor.
It would save you a ton of weight. |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Billy-
Very nice work, thanks for sharing the pictures and process. |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
sponge I did some research and the amount of money it would cost me to vaccuum bag is to much. I am laying the thin layer of thin plastic down over it to squagee the excess resin out with out harming the layers of glass. Tryder thanks for the praise. would you have done anything different on your 20 that you restored?
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Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Billy the Kid
Nice job and great pictures. I cut the deck out of my 18 ft SCraft and was looking at deck replacement threads for ideas. Did you consider using the Nidacore with the finished fiberglass surface? I thought it would save me a lot of faring later on. Are you gong to fill the space between the stringers with foam? Is there a way to do it so water can drain rather then get trapped and absorbed? Are you resting the new deck on the flange left from the old deck? I saw one deck which rested on wood that was fastened under the old deck. I hope mine comes out as well as yours thx Ed |
Re: Started 20' upgrade and restore
Hey Ed I did consider Nidacore but the problem was mounting anything to it can be a problem if it is not done a certain way. The other problem is cutting access holes into for the bilge it loses a certain amount of structural intergrity so you can only cut the hole a certain size before it becomes flexible. The new deck it getting mounted to the stringers and a couple of batts I still have to install. I just left 2 inches of deck all the way around to keep the inner liner from flexing a twisting. Once you cut the angle of between the floor and the sidewall it becomes more flimsy than it already is. I decided to do it this was rather than 3/4 marine ply was Because I wanted to keep the wieght down for one. a peice of 3/4 marine ply with 3 layers of mat on top and 2 on bottom is going to way upwards of a 100 pounds. Divynicel of the same size should way about 40 pounds. Also I want intergrated hatches into the fiberglass. I want the deck to have some what of a finished surface once laid up, I dont want to have to fair out the entire surface with fairing putty. Thats where the duratec comes into play once rolled into the mold it will absorbed the voids in the fiber glass. I have done decks for express boat and convertibles in the same fashion and they came out really well. Also where ever things are going to be mounted on the deck I am inserting 3/4 marine ply for a good mounting surface.
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Materials
I noticed in your picture of materials that your divynicel was all scrim and scored? Why this rather than solid sheets? (New at this so just gathering info.)
I like what you have done so far, and I will take some of your ideas and use them on my rebuild. |
Re: Materials
NICE work BTK,
Your flying. Are you familliar w/ Keep Alive brand aeration nozzles for livewells? I`m still figuring out my recirc set up and heard they make REALLY tiny bubbles. Thx, GFS |
Re: Materials
GFS I am familiar with the keep alive system. But for the live bait fishing we do in NJ it is more important to turn the water over meaning that in an hour for a 45 gallon live well with a 1600 gph pump and the live beeing 8 feet from the pump gives you 1100 gph which will turn the water over every 3 minutes. 90 percent of the time we are using adult bunker(menhaden or Pogies down south) And need volume. I am planning to install an oxygen system like I have in my Yellowfin for when the water gets warm. From my experience with livewells and the Bait that we use up north is the live has to be round or oval with zero obstructions in the tank it self, minimium current and preforated drainage. I have heard good things about Hammerhead livewells and not only are they extremely functional he has made it so it doesnt look like an eye sore in the cockpit. The lid locks forming a tight seal and is completely removable for a cast net to be completely dumped into it and not tear the net on the way out.
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Re: Materials
Thx BTK,
I was up in Ma. in Oct. Your Herring are HUGE. I`m doing a custom set up w/ a used poly oval 40 gal I got in Ft pierce at MLC/ I`m running the inlet from the front of the well port side just behind the gas tank to the clamshell 5" behind the tank. Total run <5 ft. 800 gph . No interior impediments except 2 strained drains and the end of day drain cut tight to the face. I hear you on flow. We use a lot of goggle eyes and blue runners. FLOW IS A MUST. I smoke and am sometimes careless, so I`ll pass on the o2 infusion for now. Gotta quit. How can I pressurize my tank? It has a rolled 90* curved flange that`s confusing me to no end. I was really hoping to upgrade to a better inlet atomizer. Any thoughts? GFS |
Re: Materials
Got some stuff done this weekend and before calling it quits for a beer or two and the superbowl. I got some radius wax from my fiberglass guy that work really well for all the hatches in the mold. I laid it down against the mold heated up a 1/2 socket and hit the wax for a couple of seconds with a heat gun and it ran right around the mold.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0881.jpg http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0879.jpg tank mounted with some fiberglass shims and neoprene between the tank and the fiberglass.I wanted the tank to be mounted into the new plywood stringers for some strenght instead of just the thin original stringer. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0873.jpg I put the bench seat and console on the mold for layout purposes http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0877.jpg I got the hoses ran and hooked up for the livewell and bilge pumps. All the hard plumbing was done on the livewell side also hooked the wires for the bilge pump and livewell and heat shrinked. I took a strip of fiberglass and ran it through the table saw for a wire runner . http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0884.jpg I decided to use 3" drainage tubing for the rigging tubes since its 5 times lighter than scedule 40 pvc and it is extremely durable. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0888.jpg I took some other strips of leftover glass and used them as mounting plate for the rigging tubes. I drilled a couple beaded the screws with 4200 and set everything in place. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0893.jpg I decided to put a rigging tube on the port side to for the saltwater wash down hose, bilge pump wires, livewell wires, gas tank wire, I didnt want to short myself on space. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/DSCN0895.jpg I am hoping to get the deck layed up this week I am just waiting for the floor flange for the livewell for the layout. |
Re: Materials
Billy,
Your pictures are helping me a lot. I like way you run wires and hoses. How do you change the bilge hoses that are secured to stringer if they have to be replaced. The plastic shouldn't degrade but what if water freezes in it and hose cracks? Are you going to fill voids between stringers with foam? Thx Ed |
Re: Materials
Hey Ed the hoses running towards the bow with the clamps on them are for the livewell. The can both be winterize with no problem the bilge hoses will be loose and accesible for changing,I am using the heavy duty hose for everything so it should last a very long time. The jury is still out on the foam thing. If anything I will rip a piece of PVC in half and put it between the stringer and the hull and pour what ever foam I have left in my 2 gallon kit in each side just to keep the coast guard happy.
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Re: Materials
Hey BTK,
Cant believe how fast you`re moving, and the quality of the work. Noticed you put a ball valve on the transom thru hull for the livewell drain. My livewell drain will be @ 18" above deck and I didn`t really feel the need to put in a ball valve as long as I carry a plug and a backup plug for it. Thoughts? Can I use recently {2 wks} opened 4200/5200 if it still flows? Kept in fridge. Thx, GFS |
Re: Materials
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You had asked before if there was anything different i would of done on my 20 restore and after looking at your pictures there is one thing.....gone to you to have you do it..... nice clean work. Looks alot like the rigging on your other boat. |
Re: Materials
trayder thanks do you have any projects up your sleeve? gfs 42 is good I find that if you put plastic over the tip and tape it on it will keep it good right up to the tip. I put a ball vavle on drain becuase I had it leftover from another project. also I like being able to isolate everything. I am laying the deck up on saturday with 2 freinds( slash proffesionals) the way its going to go is
3 coats of wax 2 coats of PVA duratec 2 layers of matt 1 layer of cloth devilet putty dyvinecel strips of plywood where stuff is getting mounted devilet putty between everything layer of mat layer of cloth |
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