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Bunk or roller trailer
My current bunk trailer is getting a little old and I plan to trailer the boat more this summer to take advantage of the Bluefin tuna bite in Cape Cod Bay. The Falmouth ramp is only a couple hundred feet from where I wetslip the boat so throwing it on a trailer is much easier and more cost effective than the trip across buzzards bay & the canal.
The current trailer is a bunk and I have owned both but the roller trailer I owned was for an outboard boat. So what do you guys prefer and this is for a straight inboard 23, so I'm not even sure if a roller trailer will work. Also the two ramps I will use are both great and I can load/unload on any tide (Falmouth Inner Harbor & Sandwich Boat Basin). Any input is greatly appreciated. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Bunks!
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
IMHO - a bunk trailer is the way to go if you have good ramps. The days of winching your boat from way out on the first set of rollers is long gone for most of us. I don't like the support rollers give you on the hull.
I also like the second set of bunks forward to keep the front of the boat unitized with the trailer and allowing you to tie down the bow without putting all the pressure on one roller. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
rip,
WOW...I was thinking on my way home today of posting this exact thread but for a 20sf outboard. Just today I got a quote for a roller trailer (20 rollers) from Coastline in Falmouth. I was woried about the 20 rollers and if they would stress the hull at all. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
I am staying with bunks, they are much better for the hull.
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
There are good and bad roller trailers, but I've had a galvanized EZ Loader w/24 rollers and a Powerwinch for over 20 years and I love it. The higher capacity tandem models have even more rollers. EZ Loader seems to have best roller system, with nylon bushings on large aluminum shafts; very little friction, no lube required. Can load and unload singlehanded, anywhere, including my front yard if I have to. Virtually zero maintenance because the only thing that gets dunked in salt water is the tires;I've never had to even get the rims wet! I did change some of the rollers to yellow urethane to eliminate black marks on hull.
Regarding hull support, I was concerned too until I did some engineering analysis . . . with that many rollers the actual load on each roller is only about 100-150 lbs, and the bearing stress is actually quite low. There are no signs of flat spots on the rollers, and you can actually wiggle each roller with the boat sitting on trailer, even at the transom. I've checked the bottom of my boat and it's as straight as the day it was built. Look carefully at the EZ Loader system and you'll see how all the supports are free to move in two directions and distribute the load so no single roller can be overloaded. I've seen bunk trailers that also had keel rollers on each cross-member; if one of those rollers sits just a little higher than the rest, it can easily see a much higher load than the balanced rollers on an EZ Loader. Only complaint I have is it's heavy - 900+ lbs for a 3500# capacity single axle; an aluminum float-on type is probably much lighter. Plus boat sits higher on trailer because of the big 15" tires; probably more of a concern with a 23. With a straight inboard, you might also need a special rear cross-member; not sure mine would clear the prop. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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My trailer has bunks under the stringers aft to support the hull and keel bunks forward to align the boat on the trailer. I drive it on, winch it about 4" to snug it to the winch stand roller, and drive it up the ramp. Twice a year or so, I'll spray silicone lubricant on the bunks to make things slide easier. Cuts down on wear & tear on the carpet too. Dave |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
The problem with rollers is salt water. I had a roller for a 24 WAC that had 48 rollers....it had great support for the boat....but after two years in salt water all the roller hardware was pretty much done. It sure was easy to launch and recover......although typically I'd have to start the motor and take the stress off the strap when launching....then it would just roll off. It could be a disaster if you unstrapped before backing in....
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
If you don't have a problem with ramps at low tide, I'd opt for bunks because they're simpler and cheaper. That said, I switched from bunks to rollers because bunks were useless at low tide here.
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Thank you for all the replies and it's pretty much what I had thought I would here.
So now I guess I'm looking for a good bunk trailer, any suggestions on good brands and or brands to steer away from? |
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I have a Hi-tech Marine for my 27 and my dad has one for his 23. All stainless hardware and front bunks standard, I opted for the Kodiak stainless Brakes. No problems in 4 years, but we don't trailer far. I bought them from a rep in NC, but I think he stopped selling them. call 1-800-282-1684
Dan |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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Amen to that! Somebody posted some pics here a couple of months ago showing a boat launched on road! The clutch/brake on my Powerwinch keeps mine secure, but my winch stand includes a safety chain snapped to bow eye just in case the winch fails, plus I used a big tie-down strap. On the rollers rusting, the key is to use aluminum shafts and nylon bushings instead of steel in the rollers. My use is 100% saltwater and only problem I've had is with the mild steel retaining washers; coating 'em with waterproof grease helps a lot. |
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I have an old Rocket trailer w/ bunks for my 23 Tsunami and there is one thing that is a hassle - getting the boat centered up on the aft most roller ! If I don't get this dead on the $, when I start to crank, the boat 'falls off this first roller and onto the rollers bracket - taking a little gel and paint on the hulls forward "V" entry as I unknowingly continue to winch the boat forward ! Pisses me off! Any ideas how to rectify this ? I either need a V roller setup aft to hold the boat in place, or those vertical PVC guides ( that I heard are not so great ) What'cha think ? |
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got tortured by rollers 4 2by8s bunks best thing done on boat
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
The need for a bunk or roller trailer has a lot to do with the steepness of your local ramp, whether they allow powerloading (many dont) and how often you plan on using the trailer.
If you are simply using the trailer for offseason storage and perhaps 1-2 other times throughout the season, go with bunk. However, if your ramp is steep, they dont allow powerloading and you plan to use the trailer frequently....go with a roller. A roller trailer will load the boat on the trailer straight 100% of the time as long as you dont sink the trailer in too deep. If you give the roller arms a chance to self-align...they will. ABL111...Do you have a picture of your Rocket trailer setup? It sounds to me that your bunks maybe adjusted wrong which is causing the keel roller to bear too much weight. Take a few pictures and between everyone...we should be able to offer some suggestions. |
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Denny,
24 rollers for your 20. How are they set up? How many forward vs aft? Seems like the 2800lb from Load Rite I am looking at (new) comes with 20 rollers. Anyone on torsion vs leaf spring? |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
well i have a bunk trailer and am not pleased with it. my boat never lines up staight with the bunks cause of the vdh. so most of the time it is either leaning on the left or right rise in the hull. i usuall end up takeing two or three time to get the boat on the trailer straight.
my trailer has a torsion axel under it and pulls it fine. seems to me it is a smoother ride on the trailer. |
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The Saltwater piece I'm too concerned with because I flush the trailer. After I put the boat back in her slip I then drop the trailer in at a local pond up the street from the house. I figure this way any place the saltwater was is now dunked in fresh. For the amount I trailer it's not a big task to take the extra ten minutes to dunk the trailer in fresh water.
The lights on my current trailer are trashed so I made a light system that clips to the transom of the boat that I remove before the boat is splashed. This way my lights never get dunked in Saltwater and always work. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=43085&Forum=Al l_Forums&Words="keel%20bunks"&Searchpage=0&Limit=2 5&Main=43081&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&dater ange=1&newerval=2&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype= &bodyprev=#Post43085 It's the one with the black carpet on the bunks. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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As you may be able to see in this first pic, there's 16 rollers on aft cross member and 8 on next cross member. This 24 roller setup is rated for 3500#. Some tandem models just repeat aft setup on next cross member for a total of 32 rollers. I added a V-shaped Stolz roller to center of rear cross member because the SeaCraft hull is so deep up front that it'll hit cross member before it contacts the aft gang of rollers. Center roller has a notch in it about 2" wide and keeps boat centered until the aft rollers engage the outer step. Once that center roller is engaged, boat will come on straight; that gang of 8 rollers on outside does a good job of centering the boat, no matter how much cross wind there is. String on port side of trailer is attached to winch switch, so I just pull the bow eye up over center roller and yank on string to take up cable slack. Piece of cake after that. I've since eliminated the side rollers as they aren't needed. (ABL111 - let me know if you want them; I was gonna put 'em on e-bay!) Both cross members are bolted to side rails so they're free to rotate. One note of caution for anyone that buys an EZ Loader: there is so little friction on this trailer, that you have to use the clutch/brake on Powerwinch when unloading; when boat CG gets over the aft cross member, it tilts and boat will scream off the trailer if you don't have hand on clutch to tighten it and slow it down! http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...llerMod003.jpg This shot shows the aft rollers engaging the outer step. Once that happens, they'll guide the boat on straight every time. Boat is up off the center roller at this point. Only time I've had a problem with it not loading straight is when the boat was listing to one side in the water. The rollers on this trailer have so many degrees of freedom that if the boat is heeled over, it will tend to come on the trailer that way! Just have to make sure it's relatively level before loading. One other tip: I ALWAYS chock all 4 wheels when retrieving boat; only chock rear wheels when launching. If you're on a steep ramp, the weight of boat on rear cross member during initial retrieve can be enough to raise rear wheels up onto the chocks which can then start sliding! :eek: Haven't launched a tow vehicle in 40 years; don't intend to start now! |
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I like both!
Bunks in the rear, less maint, more friction while trailering and to support the weight. Rollers in the front to center and if you need to wench up on a poor ramp. Here is an old thread; http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&fpart=1&vc=1 |
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
not to steal the thread ,but blue heron i see what your saying. i guess i will have to make a set of them for the front of the trailer. also i see alot of yall have a wenches on the front of your float ons. No body is useing the clamp and hook style they come with? is there a reason for this? and last i think my trailer is to short for my boat cause the last 3 feet of the boat are resting on just the bunks no trailer underneith?
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Here are a few pix of my trailer and the bow scratches
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49...1/DSC00008.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49...1/DSC00011.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49...1/DSC00012.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49...1/DSC00009.jpg Any advice ? Thx |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
There is a white pvc covered aluminum pipe "V" shape that would force the boat onto the keel roller. I think you need two, one at the rear most roller and one midship.
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speaking of trailers id like to know where i can get the brackets to put the keel bunks on my trailer. also does anyone know offhand the deadrise in the second step of the 20 hull? ive got to replace my bunks but i can get a good measurement off the boat. thanks!!!
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
ab111 - you have the same center roller that I have, but I've never had a problem with boat jumping off that roller, probably because it only goes a couple of feet before the rear gangs of rollers that hang out behind the trailer start making contact. The marks on your hull indicate it's jumping off the roller after the first couple of feet. Don't think my vertical side rollers would help, as they don't make contact till boat is about halfway on trailer. On my previous boat/trailer, I had a couple of large rollers right next to center roller that were free to tilt toward the center and did a good job of centering hull as it came up on the trailer.
I suspect boat is jumping off the roller because there isn't much vertical load on it at that point. Are you backing the trailer in too far? Is the ramp so steep that the winch cable is actually lifting the boat up off the roller while ost of the hull is still in water? Or maybe a combination of these two factors? I back mine in just far enough that the towing eye, which is about 8-10" above waterline, is just above the top of the roller; roller and all but about 1/2" of cross member are OUT of the water. This puts enough load on that roller that tongue of trailer tries to lift bumper of truck when boat is about half way on trailer. Hope this helps, Denny |
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It sounds like we're talking about two different trailer designs and therefore two different ways to load and unload. I've owned roller trailers in the past ( not float on/bunks like I have now ) and have never had a problem like this.
I could definitely be loading it wrong; maybe the trailer is too far in ( I put the trailer in till the truck's rear wheels are inches from the edge of the water ). This allows me to hand pull the boat up 1/3 of the way, then bouyancy helps me winch her home. I feel like I need some sort of "V" roller at the first roller point - this will allow me to keep her in line. It is such a b*tch trying to keep the boat floating - centered over that aft roller - then run up to the winch, start cranking only to have it fall of center and I have to start over again. Even w/ help, it's a hassle. The scratches are from the boat's "V" not being on the roller at all. I then start to winch and the hull gets scratched going up along that aft roller's shaft "nut". Gotta be a better way - Reelescape - got a picture ? |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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Here is a couple of ideas I think will solve your centering problem: First you need the forward center bunks. These will keep your bow in-line with the center Rollers/Pads. I paid approx $85 shipped with S/S hardware. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/DSCN0001.jpg Second: "Get rid of the rear roller". Make a templete of your stern's deadrise with cardboard. Then construct a stern keel guide out of 2"x12" PT lumber, carpet, monel staples and then bolted to the frame. This will keep the back of the boat centered on the rear axle and between the bunks. The boats weight will be on the main bunks. The forward bunks and the keel guide will keep it aligned. Your SeaCraft will load perfectly every time. No More Hassel, No More Scratches ;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/DSCN0002.jpg |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Your trailer is basically a float on type with rollers instead of skid plates. Most of the guys around here with float-on types just dunk the trailer and drive on, and Capt. Chuck's set-up should work unless they don't allow power loading in your area, in which case you'll need the rollers. If that's the case, I see 2 possible options: 1. (Big bucks) Cut a couple of feet off the aft end of the bunks and install the EZ Loader self-centering setup of 16 rollers on rear cross member. 2. (~$25) Replace whichever roller it's jumping off of with one of these: www.westmarine.com
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
ABL111-
Have you tried moving your bunks in a bit? It looks like they are very far out and as a result, the hull is bottoming out on the keel rollers before it makes contact with the bunks which should center the boat. As it is setup now, teh weight is on the keel rollers...and when the hull rolls off them during unloading and loading you get the gouges. I would try moving the main bunks in first. Then once they are in position, you adjust the existing rollers to take a little bit of weight (bunks should carry the vast majority of the weight) or you can ditch the rollers and just swap in Captain Chucks v-blocks and front bunks. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Thx for all the input and help. I think that the best solution would be to have (2) angled rollers along side the aft roller to keep the boat centered. All else works well once she is centered. The "V" is pretty constant through-out the hull.
Capt Chuck: Those front beds seem great, but my problem would happen before I even hit that point - the boat would fall off the roller. However, the 12x2 "V" idea seems like a good one, but I'd be concerned that there is a lot of friction on that once the boat was being pulled home ? What's your opinion ? I think once I get the loading problem figured out, then those front bunks would help reduce load on front keel rollers a lot... Bushwacker: cool design roller by Stoltz - might work ?! Trident: I think the bunks are where they should be - I did a lot of research i.e. looked at a lot of trailered SC pix on this site and asked a lot of measurement specs before I set them there. Also, the rollers were re-adjusted the first time I set it all up to have the rollers just touch the keel - 90% or more of the aft weight is on the bunks. The other thing to think of is that the cross members of this trailer are not symetrical box-tube (square), but more like a "C" shape with 90 degree angles. It's tough to mount things to it and maintain structural integrity. Also, it is a trailer I use 2-4x a year. If I needed it more, I'd get a new one... |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Ok, now that everyone else has given there take on trailers,
I will give you mine. My 20SF sits on a tandem axle galvanized Continental. On the set up there are 7 12in Stoltz rollers and 8 4in donut rollers. I used 14in galvanized 5/8 bolts on the 12in rollers and 4in 5/8 bolts on the 4in donuts. Every shaft was drilled in the center of the bolt head approx. 5 inches on the 12's and 2 inches on the 4's with an 1/8 inch dill bit, with an outlet hole and the end of the drilling. Then tapped for a zirc fitting that enables you to be able to pump grease into the roller shaft. I set up double 12 inch on the first cross member and the second. There is a 12 inch wide piece of rough sawn Cedar as a walk board the length of the trailer. Also a 912 Power Winch with a stainless cable that runs the length of the walk board. What this allows me to do is launch and load the boat by myself. It is truly a one man operation. :D I shot these pics in the barn just now... http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0002-2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...4/PDR_0010.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...4/PDR_0009.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0008-1.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0007-2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...4/PDR_0006.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...4/PDR_0005.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...4/PDR_0004.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0003-2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0002-2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...PDR_0011-1.jpg Also the shafts (bolts) are tack welded on the heads to the frame. The biggest failure is when a roller seizes on the shaft and wears out the bracket. These rollers have not been touched in over 10 years. Just take grease gun to the ramp twice a year and juice em' up. I know the pics are over kill, but a picture to me is worth a thousand words.. :) You be the judge. Decide how you want to be able to come and go as you please. See ya, Ken |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
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No friction on the Keel Guide or the forward bunks because, As your boat loads they doesn't touch the hull until it's just about in position to haul out. The keel guide and the front bunks should NOT take any load of the boat! Both are put in position snug up to the hull while your boat is centered on the trailer in your yard. You need to get the load off the center rollers period. A "Float-On" type trailer is not a "Roller" trailer. Your trying to combine the two |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
I don't use keel rollers, I don't use bow rollers or bow guides, and I drive on with my hull centered every time. Just adjust your bunks to just outside the first chine, for maximum strength, and allow only 1 inch side to side play, using bunk slides. Make sure your bunks are high enough off the frame that your bow does not hit the crossmember as you come into the trailer. With the bunk slides, your bow will self-center every time as log as you get it between the bunks. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...0/P1010001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...0/P1010002.jpg I've done all my boats this way for years, even before the days of "glide sliks" I used 1/3 of a PVC tube over the top of the bunk. Never had a misaligned boat, never had a crooked boat on the trailer, never had hull damage from missing the rollers. The only downside is loading by yourself. I have to leave the boat running in gear while I hook it to the winch and snug it. Most of the time, though, I just get my wife or one of the kids to do that. |
Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Just another perspective-I've had my boat on a 48 roller Venture Trailer for four years and have never had a single problem loading or unloading my boat, which I fully expected to after moving up from a little 17 foot aquasport. I trailer it alone quite often and I can't believe how perfecly the boat loads up every time I come in. I know, I'm sure I just jinxed myself for this spring. :D
The boat also seems very well supported on this rig. |
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I'm still thinking about all this info... |
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The flost on aluminum trailers are so sweet, I drive mine on, Susan tightens the winch strap and we are out in less than 2 minutes. Mine is a Fast Load built in Plant City but Owens & Son makes agreat trailer too - maybe go to their websites to see what I mean - they are so sweet boys honest.
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Re: Bunk or roller trailer
Put on some rear guide posts and run her up the easy way.
They make a world of difference. GFS Maybe tomorrow it`1l stop blowin and I can practice my loading. |
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