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buying a seacraft
right now im looking at a seacraft. i was told its a 1976 but its a tsunami and last digits on HIN are 74. any tips on what to look for to make sure its a good buy? reccomendtions b4 i buy?
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Re: buying a seacraft
After ascertaining that it has a clear title, I think the floor and transom are the two biggest issues - and either can be fixed. Without a clear title, I'd walk away from even the best of deals.
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Re: buying a seacraft
As stated, walk the floor for soft spots-usually around any mountings and screw holes- and the transom-which can be expensive. Other that that ROCK AN ROLL - cosmetic's are no problem, you can take a belt sander to the gelcoat and won't go thru it-so scratch's and oxidation are easy, if its oxidized and looks crappy you get a better price LOL
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Re: buying a seacraft
how would you recomend checking transom?? has a new engine and i belive a 270 volvo outdrive, but outdrive is not new?? how to check out drive??
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Re: buying a seacraft
When you walk around the floor, do it again with your shoes off. you will really be able to tell if there are soft spots. Check oil in outdrive for water and metal! Beyond that you will have to run it in fw and rev.
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Re: buying a seacraft
what about checking the transom?? tips? also you think a ford explorer 2wd 4.0L v6 will pull it?
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Re: buying a seacraft
Boat, engine and a full tank of gas is going to be 5,500+ pounds.
I used to pull my rig with an old Jeep that was rated for 4,500 pounds. I did it and survived, but would not want to do it for a living. I now use my Toyota Sequoia. No worries. Check the Ford site for towing capacities. The only time that 2 wheel drive may be an issue is when you are going up a steep slippary ramp. |
Re: buying a seacraft
Greetings Dilligaf,
I hope you get that Tsunami. Beautiful boats! Pulling it down the road may not be a problem if the trailer is properly balanced. Stopping in "the nick of time" will be an issue at some point. I don't know how far you are typically towing and have no idea what quality of ramps you'll be using but I have seen numerous folks trying to pull too big of a boat off up the ramp burn gas, rubber and transmissions while they amuse or irritate fellow boaters and observers. I have even been part of the problem as I once let a friend (full of confidence in his V-8 F150 longbed) try to pull my 23 footer up a poor ramp (fully confident that he couldn't - hooked a big dodge up to him to get up the ramp) and eventually towed it down the road damn near flipping it on a downhill curve. I just passed on a nice 23 Sceptre cause I knew my T-100 would have trouble. Luckily I found a 20 Seafari cause I couldn't afford a different truck. Most folks suggest you don't tow more than 80% of your tow rating. If you have an extra grand or so you might consider finding a good used f-250 or similar to tow it with. I expect you've already pulled up to the Tsunami you're looking at, but hook it up and give it a tug. I think you'll find the Great Tsunami 23 is a pretty big boat next to the Explorer. Good luck. -- Gillie |
Re: buying a seacraft
I used to pull my '74 Tsunami with a '96 Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 inline 6, with no problems. While my Jeep was 4WD, I never had to use that to pull the Tsunami up any ramp. My '95 Cherokee had the factory (NOT Dealer) tow package, and was rated to pull 10,000 lbs.
For the record, because I actually weighed it once at he local quarry, my 23' Tsunami and tandem galvanized trailer, with full 110 gallons of fuel, and 300-400 lbs of camping gear, and fishing equipment, etc., tipped the scales at 6085 lbs. The most dangerous part wasn't pulling the boat, it was stopping it. Even with factory 4 wheel anti-lock with only a two-ton tow vehicle, I had to be very careful about following distance, and planned braking distance. The most important system on any vehicle isn't the drive system, it's the braking system. |
Re: buying a seacraft
AMEN to that, Brother!
I, and many others on here, live up here in the snow. And we ALL drive/tow up wet ramps and on wet roads at some time. "It isn't how how much you can tow, but what you can STOP!" |
Re: buying a seacraft
Quote:
My trailer guy told me that if the tow load is more than 50% of your vehicle weight you should get trailer brakes. If your Explorer weighs 4000# the most you should tow without brakes 2-3000 #. |
Re: buying a seacraft
trailer brakes make a huge difference. I tow my 73 Tsunami with my Cherokee (not the Grand). My experience has been the same, although I do sometimes need 4wd to get up the ramp (our ramp sucks). My original trailer had no brakes. I pulled it from MD back up to CT like that. Not a fun trip. I'm still not comfortable at highway speeds. It can start to sway if you get to aggressive and it takes some work to keep it under control but around town it's adequate. I keep the boat in the water all season though. I wouldn't do it as a trailer boat. Pushing your luck that often is likely to cause a problem at some point as you become more comfortable and less careful.
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Re: buying a seacraft
States have specific laws on trailer brakes. I think if you were ever in a wreck and didn't have them but were supposed to....the lawyers would have a field day.
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Re: buying a seacraft
i buying a brand new duel axle trailer with brakes and wont be towing more than 10 miles. i have an ocean ramp about 5 miles away and a bay ramp maybe 8 miles away... what about tips for checking transom out?
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Re: buying a seacraft
Start with visual, if you have the $$$ and can have it surveyed, do it. They will usually tap with mallet and/or check with moisture meter. Usually around $350 uncluding sea trial for 23' or so. You can get a name from the accrediting society for your area, search the web.
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Re: buying a seacraft
where are the scuppers at on this boat i cant find them??
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Re: buying a seacraft
For the center consoles the scuppers are by the stern (either through the hull or through the transom)
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Re: buying a seacraft
what about the spectre/tsunami?
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Re: buying a seacraft
On older models through the hull.
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