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Teak
What is the best way to take care of teak and what how often all the info ill need , thanks
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Re: Teak
Snappy Teak is about the best I have used....
About $22.00 at your favorite Marine Supply. And lots of Teak Oil.. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...9_21770098.gif See ya, Ken |
Re: Teak
If you don't mind it looking grey, teak requires very little maintanance, just don't let any blood/fuel/wine/etc get on it when it's dry, dry teak will stain, wet teak doesn't.
If you want it golden, that will require regular attention, especially if it's in the sun and/or get salt water on it. If the teak is rough, first sand it with 120 grit to knock the grain down, then 220 to make it smooth. Always sand with the grain. IMO, freshly sanded teak is beautiful, but unfortunately, it doesn't stay that way long. :( When it starts turning grey after a few months, you can use teak cleaner to make it golden again, I prefer Snappy Teak. It's a 2 part cleaner/brightener, but be careful, it is harsh on gelcoat and paint. You can also use TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate) which you can get at a hardware store or Cascade liquid dishwashing detergent. With both of these, DO NOT apply them directly on the teak, mix them with water in a bucket first. These will bring back some of the golden color, but not as good as the marine products. I'm not a fan of oiling or staining teak. Eventually, mildew and dirt will find it's way under these products, and then it's that much hard to get back looking good. Finally, I hope my yacht experience can be helpful on this site :) Lloyd |
Re: Teak
Out here on the lower left coast sikkens cetol products are probably the most commonly used, 3 coats every couple of years.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...kens_guide.pdf weathered teak takes on a sweet silver patina that lets everyone know your boat is your pleasure not your chore. Check out Bigshrimpin's Seafari on Stricks "Life is good post." Looks pretty dignified to me. Especially with that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale nearby :cool: If you want long wearing sheen/bling check out using Smiths epoxies like CPES as a varnish primer to dramatically inhibit and slow down the mildewing & deterioration Capt. Lloyd speaks of. Glossy teak + sun + saltwater = hard work :D |
Re: Teak
Guccification is on the list, but way down. I love all wood. Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking of tung oil but didn`t know about possible compatibility issues w gelcoat. Old timers on the Cape used to soak their bundles of cedar shingles in linseed oil for a month.Those are the naturally brunette houses to this day. Papa taught me that. He also told me I`d never be to old for a shovel....Nothing wrong w/ gray teak for now after a good sanding. Someone also told me never to use steel wool. Makes sense now. The older I get the smarter he gets. :cool:
GFS |
Re: Teak
I've been trying to maintain the teak on my boat for over 30 years, and I've tried about everything. I've found that the 2-part cleaners are pretty harsh and actually destroy the soft part of the grain, so I usually just sand it w/ 60 grit before coating. The UV here in S. Fla. is very strong and raises hell with all coatings; teak oil seems to oxidize and turn dark in just a few months. I've found that it's actually less work to build up a good coat of varnish (at least 4-5 coats) and then every couple of years just scuff it with a red 3M pad and give it a couple of more coats. PowerBoat Reports did a 2-year test, I believe over in Sarasota, of 10 different coatings, both matte and gloss finish, in their 2/05 issue. They picked the Epifanes High Gloss as the best (most durable) gloss coating, and Cetol as best matte finish. In 11/03 they picked Honey Teak, as the best gloss. I've tried Deks Olje (both oil and oil + varnish), Honey Teak, and Epifanes, and I like the Epifanes best. In first shot below, I used Honey Teak on cabin door & steering wheel hub; it's heavily pigmented and a little darker than I like. The handrail & binocular box on port bulkhead are Epifanes. The cockpit sideboards in second shot were done with Epifanes, as was the mahogany trim piece in the last shot; gel coat was done with PolyGlow. The varnish had been on there about a year in first 2 shots. It was just done in last shot, but I try to keep a tarp or cover on the boat and that also helps all coatings last a lot longer. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...aripics006.jpg http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...aripics007.jpg http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ipics006-1.jpg
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Re: Teak
So you guys are talking about varnishing teak? Were have I been all these years... oiling!
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Re: Teak
Hi Bushwacker,
LOVE P.B.R..No B.S. No wanker adverts! Your boat looks great! I thought my brother was the fastidious king of shine! I`ve heard that after final sanding you flash coat the first 2 w/ no sanding in between for a smooth buildup. Is that right? I have access to a compressor and I can scrounge up a gun. Now I gotta learn how to use one. Do I coat the back as well? I`ve heard of that trick of blocking down a few coats and re-coating every 6 mos. or so to get going perpetually. Very nice! I have a bimini and was trying to source a cover. ? `89`20 sf.? Ok ,so you start at 60 grit. Do you really start at 60? I would`ve thought 80 was too strong? Ah, so much to learn. Where do you end up? 600? 2000? compound and a buffing wheel?I was told never to use steel wool, even 000 on the last buff for obvious salty reasons that I didn`t think of...... Thx for the post, Really looking forward to learning much at area 51. GFS |
Re: Teak
Personally I like the two part cleaners followed by Cetol Marine lite.
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Re: Teak
Steel wool is generally a big no-no on boats. The issue with it is that the pieces of steel wool that separate from the pad rust when they come in contact with water and will stain gelcoat, teak, etc. The solution/alternative is to use bronze wool instead.
With regard to final grade of sanding/buffing there are a lot of opinions and experience on the subject. Others here will surely chime in, but take it as far as you want to go. Just remember to let the varnish cure up before expecting to great results. My personal preference is to wet sand with about 800-1200 grit. For me, it makes the point of some shine without going overboard. |
Re: Teak
How do they get that entitled transom shine on the wagons?
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Re: Teak
GFS - Teak is a unique animal when it comes to sanding - it's so oily that it'll clog the paper if you use too fine a grit; same for cutting, can use a fairly course blade. I used 60 grit on a power sander; it's best if you sand with the grain, so I don't think an orbital sander works as well. Belt sander works fine if you're careful. On the application, I just followed the Epifanes directions, nothing fancy. I believe 1st coat is thinned 50%, next coat 25%, then 10%, then last 3 coats were unthinned. Just used foam brushes, let dry overnight, then wet sand w/280 or 320 grit, just enough to knock off the gloss and knock down bugs, bubbles and high spots. I had used the 2-part cleaners several times over the years, and they destroy the soft grain and have little effect on the hard grain which then becomes high spots. Even sanding w/60 grit won't fix it because it also takes off more soft grain than hard. Would have to run it thru a planer to fix this problem! I will NEVER use those cleaners again on anything I intend to varnish! Took about 6-8 coats to get it reasonably level but it still isn't perfect. I guess those cleaners are ok if you're just gonna oil it and leave it kinda rough, which I did on my old swim platform because I didn't want that slick! May have used 400 grit under last coat, but you should knock the gloss off so next coat will bond. The red 3M pad also works; it tends to clog but can be washed out. Just wet sanding with wet-or-dry paper eliminates the clogging. In my experience, most varnishes are much different than paint - they remain relatively soft so they can't be buffed, but if properly applied most will level out real nice and have a good gloss with no other work required. It may be a little more work initially than chemical cleaning and oiling, but I've been there/done that, and once you get a good layer of varnish on it, I think it's a lot less work in the long run, especially if you keep it covered. Just a couple of coats every couple of years vs clean and reoil about every 6 months in this climate, plus the oil will still oxidize and turn dark even if you keep it covered! Varnish keeps the oxygen away and the new ones have UV inhibiters to make it harder to break down.
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Re: Teak
Several friends of mine that have a lot of teak on their boats swear by Honey Teak -
Honey Teak Seem to really hold up well... Because I have very little teak left on my SeaCraft I have been using Cetol.. touch it up every year or so.. Good Luck. |
Re: Teak
Thanks Bushwacker,
Love the way you mounted the classic creations of Carla Industries! Do you still go to the Bahamas? I don`t have much wheel time, but I might piggy back with others. What kind of spares do I need to start collecting? I have an extra quicksilver hub for my new to me Mirage + and the old michigan wheel, basic tools,breaker bar, wood block, some wire, circuit test light ,connectors,crimper, spark plugs,+ fuel filter and a dry place for my passport and HMS permit. I need to get a spare bulb and fuel line. I`m sooooo old school some times. I made sure my truck was made on a Wednesday. I know , robots don`t know what day it is.As for the 115 vs 150 debate, you really made me start thinking . My 4.3 v6 makes 240 ft lbs, and is 3/4 of a 5.7 basically. In 87 that`s probably more than a 350 ci made. Carla said the 21 was RACED w twin 50 4s Homelites. My beloved carbed looper drinks a lot of Parrish wine at cruise. Has a nice little sweet spot @ 3700 though. It`s a real pig on the pins. Thanks a bunch for the teak tips. P.B.R. is the best. No B.S. , and no wanker adverts. Subscription on the list. MMMMM Epiphane. Time to take the tarp off and get cracking. GFS |
Re: Teak
Check out "joey's fibercraft" in the other boats gallery on the opening page of the site and if you like that look it is fairly simple to do.It's basically 3 coats of West
System epoxy washed and sanded between coats and 6 coats of clear AwlGrip on top. |
Re: Teak
When I first got our 23 I ran the rod holders and some trim through a planner then oiled it with Interlux teak oil looked great for about 6 months. I'm thinking the same planner then varnish.
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Re: Teak
joey -Your Fibercraft looks awesome. I like the epoxy under the Awlgrip clear coat idea; it looks fantastic. And bulletproof -- sounds like reeeel low maintenance, too. How long has it been since the finish was done?
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Re: Teak
Thanks.Those photo's were taken a few months after I did the teak.I kept the boat on a open lift and the hard southern sun would warrent about once every 9 months or year sanding and another coat or two of AwlGrip.I am a little brightwork crazy,so I would strip it every couple years down to the epoxy,fire a couple more coats of West and then the AwlGrip.I enjoy doing brightwork,I think the end result is worth so much more than the effort it requires.
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Re: Teak
Wow Joey,
Reminds me of an old Willy Roberts I saw down around Cudjoe Key @ 14 yrs ago. Love the pod helm! Sweet lines too. I love teak and was trying to get an idea of the best low maintenance approach for a proper finish. I`ve never used epoxy. Questions please. 1Will it yellow in coming years? 2Does it eventually flake and peel? 3How do you recoat/ refinish? 4How long will it last? 5Other concerns? Thx, GFS |
Re: Teak
Yeah,I do love those old Willy boats myself,a bit of a pain to pole by todays standards,but a truly beautiful skiff.
The epoxy on the raw teak really seals the grain so that the wood doesn't soak up all of the Awlgrip.The epoxy itself really doesn't yellow,it's the clear AwlGrip that you have to maintain.It will require yearly attention here in S.Fl,but it's not that difficult to do.The key is the first time the teak is done that you take care to do it right. Be sure that the epoxy is put on in the shade,if the wood is hot the epoxy tends to bubble and fish eye.Also when mixing the epoxy do so in a slow non violent manner so as not to get any air in the epoxy.Be sure that you scrub the wood between coats of West with a lite soapy water and scotch bright pad to remove the amine blush that west will leave.There realy isn't any need to sand between coats of epoxy unless you have bubbles or runs to remove.After a few coats,enough so that you can not feel any grain through the epoxy,give it a few days or so before you apply the AwlGrip.I've done my share of brightwork on sport boats over the years and I can't say enough how important a good brush is when appling AwlGrip.A good and expensive badger hair brush is the way to go,unless you can spray,then by all means shoot it.Again do it in the shade,you can get a few coats on per day weather permitting and again no need to sand between coats unless you have a run or 24 hrs has passed between coats. I would sand mine with 320 every 9 months or so and reapply a few more coats of clear.But after a couple times of that I would strip it down to the epoxy with a heat gun,sand,maybe some epoxy(if the grain has raised)and more Awlgrip. It does require a little effort to keep it looking perfect,but I think it's worth it. Now,I really will confuse you.Look at the Jenna Mae on my website at the bottom of the post.The toe rail,brow cap and helm pod are mahagony and they have about 6 coats of Bristle Finish on them.It looks really good,but lasts about 6 months down here.You can put AwlGrip over the Bristle after 30 days or so,but I sold the boat before I got to it. |
Re: Teak
Ohhhhh, that`s sexy. Looks like an old Scarborough or Merritt express. Love the tumbledown. Has that old timey look.
Must`ve been hard to wave goodbye. I`m leaning toward Epiphane as I`m not familiar w/ epoxy. Will the epoxy base last longer/look smoother than a varnish base properly maintained . Looks like I`m gonna try to shoot it. This`ll be fun. Is epoxy darker than varnish? I`m partial to lighter tones in teak. Thx Joey, GFS Thx, GFS |
Re: Teak
I`m starting to feel like Vinny Babarino.....
GFS |
Re: Teak
The epoxy kind of gives it a hard base and it really doesn't darken it any.But you'll be fine with the varnish.I learned the epoxy thing from the Merritt boys,if you spend anytime working a custom boat you will flat learn about brightwork!
Yeah it was a sad day watching the Jenna Mae leave,but there will be another by spring. |
Re: Teak
Maybe it`s time for me to try to think about the 21st century, or the thought that it`s what he does everyday.....
Thx Capt. Started sanding splaswell. Belt sander and 80. Yep Didn`t have 60 . Could`ve used some. Thx All! GFS |
Re: Teak
I LOVE teak on a boat and I think its a shame the new production boats have so little of it.
I did my Grady with Epifanes and Cetol. The Epifanes was used in the helm area which is not as exposed to the elements as the cockpit, where I used Cetol. Cetol is tougher and better able to withstand the abuse from the elements then regular varnish, but the regular varnish is beautiful. The Epifanes is excellent. As Busheacker said, thin the first coat 50%, follwed by 30%, 15% and 10%. This builds a nice base for the topcoats which are applied at fullstrength. In between the fullstrength coats I even sand with 220 grit, but only ever so lightly. I normally do the 4 base coats and 4-5 top coats, sanding with 320 between the last coat. The cetol is simpler and easier. Apply the 3 coats of base at fullstrength follwed by 3 coats of gloss with light sanding between coats. Joey did what I consider the ULTIMATE teak finish. Epoxy followed by Clear Awlgrip or Imron. If it lasts 12 months in the direct Florida sun, it will last a easy 5-6 years up here. My next year plan is to coat the varnish on my boat with clear imron. Although I didn't treat it with epoxy from my understanding the multiple coats of varnish can be overcoated with Imron as they already built a base and filled the grain. Epifanes: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000804.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000806.jpg Cetol http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000811.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...fish/teak5.jpg |
Re: Teak
GradySailfish your brightwork looks great!And I too feel that there is way to little of it around anymore.You definately can hit it with the clear now and have a truely stunning finish.The truth be known,the epoxy is kind of cheating,it allows you to clear coat much quicker.Your way of varnishing and letting it sit awhile before clear coating is the best way.
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Re: Teak
Yum Yum GSF.
Almost done w/ the 80. I`m using the palm orbiter in tight places and straightening by hand as best I can . How do you get the bottom of 90 corners? Tried to take it apart, but strong glue and thought stopped me, after I took the plugs and screws out....,but before I made another mistake.Did I say thought? With everyone`s kind guidance I`m expecting close to happy results :) Thx, GFS Bushwacker: Have you had that beauty for 30 years? |
Re: Teak
[/QUOTE]Bushwacker: Have you had that beauty for 30 years? [/QUOTE] Bought it in 1975, so I guess it'll be 33 years in a couple of months. Found it at Brown & Hauptner Marine before Waterway Cafe was built on the site. Was a 1-owner boat; belonged to father of a guy I used to work with that had a 67 SeaCraft 21! It had spent some time in a covered rack building but he also kept it in water at son's house which explains the bottom paint. Dad was evidently a bit of a klutz with docking as there are a few spider cracks along gunnel from some dock walloping and one spot of barnacle rash on the gel coat, but otherwise it's in pretty decent shape. Bought it as-is and put a new 115 Evinrude on it which never quit on me the whole time I had it and was running good when I sold it. Just got tired of the noise, smoke and 2 mpg performance; after 30+ years I was ready for some newer technology! Deck is solid and when Don Herman filled in the transom, he said it was the driest one he'd ever seen in a boat that old! I did 2 things when I bought it that protected the transom: The first was to follow Brown & Hauptner's practice of removing the aluminum trim around the transom cut-out and replacing the brittle polyester putty in the cap-to-hull gap with Life Caulk. They did this on all the new boats they sold. Also pulled out the baitwell inlet/outlet plug under port stern seat and resealed it, as it had started to leak. Currently fixing up an old galley seat I got from 73Seafari. Hope to have it ready for Long Point gathering. |
Re: Teak
Bushwacker, thats a great history with that boat. I'm sure she means a lot to you.
Joey, funny you say that, because I was under the impression that what I'm doing is "cheating" in that I'm too lazy to strip off all the old varnish and re-do with epoxy. I'm happy to hear that though, and look foward to the finish. I might be selling my Grady though and buying a 26 Fortier. We'll see, but either way I look foward to playing with the teak. Its a beautiful thing. |
Re: Teak
I too miss teak on new boats. Sad trend. +^%$#@&* bean counters. Why not make it an option?
Ok Q&A time. 1 On thinner pieces,would it be a good idea to leave a little grain up after the 80 and get it as you go up in grit to leave more wood? 2 I have some nice badger brushes for future touches, but they have been used for alkyd round the house house paint. ok or no k? 3 Do I coat the back of flush mounted pieces? 4 When you re-coat in the future , do you just tape, sand, re-tape and hit it? 5 When shooting, hang w/ stiff wire in a screw hole and hit only the vertical plane or 360? 6 Overlap 50% of the pattern like cars? 7 I have acces to a compressor and was thinking of a Harbor Freight gun, do I need a Binks, or can I get good results w/ an unknown? 8 Le have a huge ficus tree 10 feet out the back door for shade, but is there a sweet temp at which to shoot it? Thx, All! Bushwacker that`s a wonderful love affair! Ever since I was a young child, I marveled at people who could do louvers. I to think those caps are done that way on purpose. No marine AIA would do that. I`m rigged , how should I seal that? GFS |
Re: Teak
Gofast,
The brushes should be good as long as their clean. As a matter of fact, the older and more "used" they are the better they are, kinda like a baseball glove. I've been told to buy a good brush and take care of it and it will serve you well and last a long time. As for spraying, I would not hang the pieces vertically, instead I would lay them down flush so that when you spray the paint it levels out as flat as possible. The Harbor Freight guns are actually quite good. Although I have no personal experience with them, I know Warthog from ClassicMako uses them and is very happy with the results. I think the gun he uses sell for $ 69 bucks. Contact him for details. When it gets a bit warmer I'll spray my teak. Bushwacker, I can only imagine how attached you are to your boat after 30 years. I've had my Grady for 9 and I feel joined to the hip with her, so much so actually that I feel really bad about selling her to "upgrade" to a 26 Fotier. AVK |
Re: Teak
Thanks GSF,
How do I fix a hairline crack by a screwhole. It`s attached at both ends. Joey was that Bristol Finish on the Jenna Mae? Has anyone used Bristol Finish? GFS |
Re: Teak
Yes that's Bristle on the Jenna Mae,about 6 coats I think.I really like the stuff.You can recoat it in about an hour,you don't have to sand in between coats,it held up pretty well down here in the intense summer sun and after about 30days you can clear coat it if you want,but I didn't on the Jenna Mae.It's a two part varnish and goes on real nice with a sponge brush,I think it's about 60.00 a quart. You can make a filler for the crack by mixing teak saw dust and a clear drying glue(I use Elmers)and just fill the crack,let it set up and sand it smooth.You will be able to see it,but it won't jump out at you like the crack would. I just went and looked at the boat on my site and let me say that she has Bristle on the ToeRail,Transom,Helm Pod and Brow Cap.The covering boards and cockpit sole are teak and just oiled. |
Re: Teak
Yeah, I was at their site and they have lots of tips and info.
Maybe that`s the way I`ll go. Did you use the honey or clear? Any thoughts all? Thanks for the crack Capt. GFS |
Re: Teak
I use the clear. I would say again do it in the shade and keep the coats thin, it will run and get little bubbles if you try to put on too much .Always go from dry to wet and put on a bunch of coats,I'd say 10 and forget about clear coating with the AwlGrip.If you mix up more than you need for a coat and you plan to keep at it that day,put the unused in the fridge until your ready for the next coat.That will slow the kick time and extend your pot life,just warm it in the sun to get it easy to apply again.Don't worry about little runs and screw up's at first,build up a good base of varnish,then sand and fair out any mistakes before the final coat or two.
Jump on in there and get'er done,you will be very pleased with the result and very satisfied that you did it yourself! |
Re: Teak
Quote:
What I like about the Epifanes is it's a 1 part deal, just open the can and apply. Both Honey Teak and Bristol Finish require a catalyst, which means you may waste some if you don't mix up the right amount. When I used the Honey Teak, I just mixed small batches using syringes, and made more as required to minimize wastage. |
Re: Teak
TODDS LURES RULES!!!!! Unobtanium obtained! I now have in my humble little hands a beautiful dash and glove box w trim. AND the plexi doors /frame w trim for the bottom of the console.
Thanks for the transport 65 Bowrider! The junk I had in there was a homemade ply affair that was being held up by 2 screws. One good wave and the whole thing would`ve come down w my gauges and radio.....Why do people do things like this? Glad I kept digging. Like Papa said , you`re never too old for a shovel. Well, I had almost finished sanding the splashwell , but now I think I`ll get going on the dash! I`ve been dry for 6 wks now and I`m worried about the fuel. 3/4 full , and run every other week to keep the carbs happy. If I can redo the dash and get the console down , I can slash her and burn the old gas up. Then I can continue. Can I add Stabil to the fuel now and take the trailer round the block or do I need to burn that gas up soon? Off to B.O.W. for beauty supplies! Thx Joey, Bushwacker, GSF, and all. GFS |
Re: Teak
Bushwacker can you PM me your phone # please.
Thx, Gfs |
Re: Teak
I bought some 1x3 4 square teak for my permanent pads for my leaning post From Jeff @ nautical specialties 1 mo. ago.
Thought , It`s not just for breakfast anymore! He was redoing a 26 Blackfin combi and his joiner work was 1st class. Luckily he was at the shop over by CrackerBoy. We discussed pros and cons. 1 part Epifanes it is. What pushed me over the fence? Never having to strip it ever again? Scuff, recoat , enjoy! Bushwacker, do you ever get tired of ALWAYS being correct? Wish I knew half of what you`ve forgotten! The Epifanes site has all the info this rookie will ever need. Take a peek. I highly recommend it. Just back from B.O.W. <60 clams for 1 qt. and thinner. Hi Ho Hi Ho...., GFS :cool: |
Re: Teak
How long can I expect to go between complete striping if I take care of the Epifanes? Perpetually?
I know I`ll get some dings. Can you spot those? Would a West base help in the longevity dept.,or cause faster strip intervals? Now I have to ask myself a question. Self, why are you doing teak when you`re supposed to be putting your boat back together? Well self, what was the first thing you did as a child when you got new or new to you toys? Well ,I ah, ah,took it apart and went to my parts bin to find a bigger motor , better gear ratio, or something, anything to make it better, lighter , stronger , and faster of course. New toys! Who can resist? Thx, GFS mmmmm toys :) |
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