Replacing Transom
 

I have a 1973 20' and am towards the end of a lengthy resoration. I need to replace the transom and want to raise it up to 25''.

I will need to do this from the outside and do not want to cut the cap.

I have searched through numerous threads but cannot find detailed instructions for this job. If anyone can help me with this I would really appreciate it. Thanks

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Try this link for a start, and follow it back. CSC transom outside

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Here is another thread that was going on not too long ago. I sent you a pm too.

Re: Replacing Transom
 

If I fill the edges with putty, how are they tied into the rest?

Do I unstand correctly that when using this method the top edges have no wood core just putty?

If the top edge is only filled with putty, than where do the towing hooks get their strength from?

Re: Replacing Transom
 

web page The transom gets it's strength from the fiberglass laminate used,the core gives it the stiffness. This article will explain the core concept better than I can. :D

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Thanks for the link. Some great info.

What you are saying is that the lifting eyes will be fine without having a wood core provided that they are tied in with the rest of the transom?

Re: Replacing Transom
 

The area where the lift eyes are has a wood core now and if you remove it because it is rotted you will need something to fill that gap, new wood, high density core, putty etc. :cool:

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Perhaps a silly question but more specifically, what is "putty." Thanks.

Re: Replacing Transom
 

"Putty" A paste used to glue parts together or fill voids. Bondo is body putty for autos. You can purchase a variety of putties for use on boats that help you achieve different results or perform different functions. You can add various fillers to gelcoat and resin to make your own putties. I think West Marine user guide has a section on using their fillers to make epoxy putties. I make a putty from resin,cabosil,milled fibers,and talc to fill large voids. Bill Potter once told me that when he owned Seacraft they bought a couple of old industrial kitchen mixers or some other machine to make their putty. It's the stuff you see when you try to remove the liner and aft livewell. :D

Re: Replacing Transom
 

You may also find some of the original "mixing bowl putty" when you remove the transom core. :o

Re: Replacing Transom
 

I bought an air chisel just for removing Bills putty. :D

Re: Replacing Transom
 

not sure this would even qualify as mulch

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...0/IMG_1142.jpg[/image]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...0/IMG_1140.jpg

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Thanks Don, That's what I thought. I was trying to get clarification for the post from Phan-

" If I fill the edges with putty, how are they tied into the rest?

Do I unstand correctly that when using this method the top edges have no wood core just putty?

If the top edge is only filled with putty, than where do the towing hooks get their strength from?"

Obviously the putty bonds to nearly everything and cures hard resulting in the above mentioned strength...

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Crowbar comes in handy when doing boat deconstruction. Heavy floor scraper with cut down handle is good too.:D

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Kinda scary that we were catching dolphin way offshore with a transom full of wood mud :eek:

Re: Replacing Transom
 

I bought an electric chainsaw :cool:
Tools of destruction (bloody knuckles not pictured):
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...Picture013.jpg

Re: Replacing Transom
 

How did you use the chainsaw? I have already removed the old wood and grinded the glass smooth, but cannot figure out how the chainsaw fit in? :eek:

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Not to hi-jack Hermit's post, but I'm also watching this as I'm also replacing a transom from outside and started with a mess for a core. Outer skin was cut back with a cicular saw and peeled off like a banana to expose this.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05280.jpg

The chainsaw is a great tool and saves lots of time removing the wood. Blade will dull from contact with fiberglass, but should last the entire job without sharpening.

The cuts made in these images allow for a lip on the outer skin where the chainsaw was a time saver. Also preparing the surface of the material was done by reversing the disc on a high speed grinder.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05297.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05294.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05303.jpg

I decided on the NidaPour after talking with many people. Also transom will be raised 5" and notched. Layup of inner and outer skins.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05316.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/...y/DSC05313.jpg

Now back to the regularly schedule program...

D-

Re: Replacing Transom
 

Dave, I used the chainsaw the same way. I do like what you did with the reverse disk :) I should have thought of that. Nice work on your 21!

Re: Replacing Transom
 

I was wondering how I was going to grind the backside of that 4'' lip. Thats a good idea.

Re: Replacing Transom
 

For some reason the outermost skin of the original glass seperated from the layer behind it in a couple of spots.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...0/IMG_1158.jpg



http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54...0/IMG_1162.jpg

I decided to grind it off and found some more damp wood. :D

Is there a thin wood core between these layers?