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Getting started... 1975 20' sf
I've been following Strick, Will, Billy the Kid and several other restoration posts and the work has been outstanding. For better or worse the level of detail has got me feeling confident enough to have a go at some work on my baby.
First, a little history: <a href="http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/?action=view¤t=NewBoatSpring08.jpg <a href="http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/?action=view¤t=DSCF0658.jpg <a href="http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/?action=view¤t=DSCF0663.jpg <a href="http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/?action=view¤t=DSCF0654.jpg <a href="http://s530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/?action=view¤t=DSCF0654.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd341/CaptDuke27/DSCF0654.jpg |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Thanks for the help Capt Chuck. I think I finally got this pic thing figured out...
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0145.jpg A pic of one happy kid, fishing off of North Miami Beach a few years back. I have a question regarding the deck. As you can see from the pics in my first post above, the boat sits a little above the red waterline stripe. With the rear seats and bilge access hatches removed I ran a level from the existing deck to the transom and discovered that the deck level is currently 1/2" above the red stripe, so maybe I only have to raise the deck level 1 or 1 1/2" to drain the cockpit though the transom. Also, I had originally planned to close the transom and put a bracket on the back, but I'm having second thoughts due to some performance questions I've seen raised and finances. |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
I also have a question regarding the 2 x 4 center stringer. The first 3 or 4 feet have some rot (the end closest the transom) and I've already cut back the fiberglass skin, so I'd like to epoxy coat another piece and replace it. Can I do that for only the first few feet where the wood is rotten and fiberglass over it, overlapping the fiberglass over the remaining glass? Would this destroy the structural integrity of the center stringer? I suspect that most of the center stringer strength is derived from the fiberglass. Has anyone else attempted this repair?
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Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Quote:
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Second, general sentiment is that the pros of a bracket outweigh the cons. I am just finishing my 20 and I added a bracket. Friday, I'll see for the first time how it sits in the water and in two Fridays I'll be able to run the boat for the first time with the bracket. To say I'm anxious to see its performance is an understatement. The bracket allowed me to add hatches and a transom livewell, in addition to the extra deck space. I dive a fair amount as well, and getting in and out of water with a bracket is much easier. Brackets have been debated many times on this board, as I’m sure you’ve seen. PM me in a couple weeks if you’d like to know how it turned out for me. By then, I will have run the boat and should have a good idea. |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
starting to get back into this project, cut a luan plywood template and traced out on 2 pieces of 3/4in. coosa
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0725.jpg dry fit on the transom http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0727.jpg laminated with epoxy resin mixed with cabosil and milled glass fibers and a layer of 1708 http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0728.jpg next day, unclamped transom and cleaned up some over flows from sides and weep holes, a note to those of you who use power tools, notice what a clean cut my Dad's table saw made on his left hand. He has worked in wood and metal machine shops for almost 60 years and about 7 years ago, he was ripping a piece of cedar when it kicked back into his stomach, he instincttively reached forward with his left hand to keep from falling into the blade ( he hated to work with the blade guard). After several months and grafts, infections, etc. he started to feel better, although he still misses his fingers when trying simple things like buttoning a shirt or tying shoes. He is a very special man to my whole family and he came close to losing everything. Please be careful with your tools, even the ones you've used 1,000 times can produce unexpected situations. http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0730.jpg started laying out transom cap curve ala Strick (if I'm real lucky it'll turn 50% as good as his) http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0733.jpg |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Keep at it.... looking good. Wasn't that fun removing those rear seats and bait well? :D
strick |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0741.jpg
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...7/DSCF0742.jpg Actually it wasn't too bad, thanks to you and others I kinda knew what I was up against. Still required a cold chisel and hand sledge hammer. I've still got the battle to pull the lower deck to look forward too. |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
I like to affectionately refer to that putty shown on the back of your inner skin as “Potters putty”. Tough to break, tough to remove and even tougher to grind….urghhh! NICE WORK :cool:
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Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
"laminated with epoxy resin mixed with cabosil and milled glass fibers and a layer of 1708"...
thats between the 2 layers of coosa right... what does that do?hold them together? |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Got back to work over the past few weekends, still waiting for some warmer weather to get more fiberglass work going
Dilligaf - Yes, the epoxy/cabosil was used as an adhesive. http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0751.jpg laid down two layers of 1708 against the inside of the existing transom skin. http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0758.jpg Mixed up a thick cabosil/epoxy paste and troweled it onto the 1708, made a bed of the paste for coosa transom to set into, them clamped everything together with 2 x 4's http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0762.jpg As per some previous discussions, it was not fun removing the carriage bolts, till I got out my new favorite tool, the hand sledge! http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCF0770-1.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0769.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0738.jpg I put the transom cap mold on just to get a feel for how the transom will look http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCF0771-1.jpg laid up two layers of 1708, 6 inch 1708 tape along the edges and woven roven on the inside. I could use some thoughts regarding if this will be strong enough to support a full bracket with a 425# motor? should I grind it up a bit and add more layers? |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Everything is looking good. your work is clean and neat which helps out alot when laminating. What I would do is round those corners out for strength. what I mean is mixed up some chopped mat cabosil and epoxy fill the corner, basically making 2 45 degree angles maybe an 1 1/2" between the the angle,then while it is still wet, lay a peice of mat and and then a layer of 1708 over a the mat.This will bond it all together. Now this is just me and I like over doing stuff. It will take you maybe a half hour to do now while everything is open which is much easier then if you have a problem later. keep it up and the pictures coming, It is what keep people interested in the project.
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Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
BTK, Thanks for the info, I'll try that tomorrow. Should I extend the first layer of mat 3 or 4 inches further out than the 1708? I followed your excellent post of your restoration and am stealing several of your ideas, for instance, the before and after pics below of sodablasting the hull. I used Tony from Ocean State Sodablast of Bristol, RI, quality work, fair price.
Before http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230755.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0778.jpg After http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230758.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230759.jpg |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
you soda blast the whole hull or just where the bottom paint was?
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Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Tony only soda blasted the bottom paint and the good news was no gel coat blisters were found. :)
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Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
Strike that last "forward looking" statement. Upon further review it appears the hull below the waterline has a bunch of blisters. When I cracked a couple open it seems to be just an air pocket with no osmosis type liquid inside. So I guess I get the dremel out and open these up, then quik fair and sand it out before several coats of barrier paint.
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0787.jpg |
Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
I would make the mat about an inch wider all the way around becuase it does stretch. I was always told to put a layer of mat down before a stichmat or 1708. I will tell you what soda blasting the bottom of a boat is the best money ever spent, I will never sand a bottom again after I got the bottom of my boat soda blasted. Keep up the good work.
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