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20SF Wiring Redo
Over on the Seacraft Photos discussion BIGLEW suggested I offer photos of what I am doing. Long story - but here goes.
I sold a 1990 175 Yami on my 20SF a couple of weeks ago. Buyer came and I helped him remove the engine, harness, wiring, etc. I then went directly to my dealer - Beck's Outboard in Jacksonville (really good folks) - and had a 150 ETEC installed (Sweet, sweet engine). Somewhere, either on the Yami removal or the ETEC install, my trim tabs and fuel flow meter quite working. While trouble shooting, I found the power leads cut and/or disconnected. I began cutting tie wraps and tracing wiring. One thing led to another and the whole wiring bundle is now apart. My new GPS/sounder came in during this time and I decided to try and clean up the wiring haystack. So BigLew, et al, here is what it looks like today. I will post more as I move through this mess. Just know that I can't nail a nail in straight, cut a board straight, or open a tube of 5200 without covering me and everything around me with white goop - so please go easy on me as you view the progress!! This one is starboard aft transom http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s..._IMG_13242.jpg Under the console http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s..._IMG_13232.jpg More under the console http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s..._IMG_13222.jpg |
Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
I posted 640x480 size pics as noted in the instructions - looks like I could go larger and get a better look see. Anyone know what size will fill the width on the post without being too large?
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Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
The images above are 120x160 so maybe the photo site you are using resized them smaller?
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Well, actually, I resized them from the camera to 640x480 and then loaded them into photogallery. Maybe photogallery dropped them to 120. I'll play with it.
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Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Here are larger images of the original post
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s.../IMG_13222.jpg http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s.../IMG_13232.jpg http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s.../IMG_13242.jpg |
Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Ron,
I respectfully suggest in the firmest of tones that you get yourself a copy of Nigel Calder's book, "Boatowner's Mecanhical and Electrical Manual". Hopefully your library, or their library system, can get you a copy. If not, it is an EXCELLENT reference book and is well worth it's cost (early Christmas/birthday gift) though not cheap. My copy has a SRP of $50, but I can tell you how to get it cheaper if you send me a PM. Anyway, the first order of business is to take a note book and write down EVERY electrical device you have; D/S, radios, tabs, nav lights, anchor light, under gunnel lights for night fishing---Everything. Then go to Nigel's book and begin to read about how he recommends to wire for the various systems and make notes/plans for each of the devices listed. Also include engine instument wiring if that did not come with your motor purchase. In Nigel's book in the 3rd chapter is an industry wiring color code chart for the wiring of individual systems, tach, oil temp, temp, oil pressure, etc.; get a copy of that, too. Run a string from you instrument panel to the transom area putting it up as if it was actually a wire. Run it to the furthest device and then measure it and write that down. This becomes a working length for calculating amounts of various wire. Go back to your list of devices and determine each device's wiring requirements and make detailed note of where it comes off the device and where the wire terminates at its opposite end. Depending on what device, etc. Refer to the color chart and determine if you should use a particular color for that device and start you shopping list. Note the type of connector required for each end; put those on the list. Do not forget fusing needs, etc. NOTE: If your eingine is wired now, things get a lot easier. Most of the real aggravation is in the sorting it out and planning stages. Talk to some of your knowledgable friends/professionals and get their input. If they look at you funny, tell them it is a project that you'd like to do yourself and ask for their advice/sanity check of your plan as if they are a "lifeguard" for the process. It might work. Once you've got that done and have planned gennerally how you are going to go about the actual work, get back to us. If you have any questions, do some searchs of the site here. There are some excellent photographs of real quality jobs and discussions to boot. Ask any questions you want as the process evolves. This could be really fun. Good luck and a take a deep breath. Slow, thoughtful and steady effort will conquer the challenge. |
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Lottsa different colors comin and goin from that ground buss! Some water from the control head also, but you'll git er done!
Nice boat, good power choice. OP |
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I just re-wired my 23 over the winter. I couldn't even use the inside of my console because of the spider web of wires. After trying to trace a problem I gave up and took a pair of cutters to the mess. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with wires that were not used anymore - what a mess.
I would recommend a couple of things. A plan, a good length/gauge chart, heat shrink (duel layer), and copper coat (or equivalent) to keep the connections clean. Most importantly – time. Don’t rush the job - that will lead to mistakes or problems neither of which you want. Good Luck. |
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I also have found numerous wire pieces taking up space and going nowhere! Spent time the last couple of days cutting and glassing in a mounting board under the console on the interior port side for my ground buss and fuse panel. I have a spreadsheet with all the equipment listed and assigned to a particular fuse and slot on the buss. I've got a new fused 6-switch panel wired and terminated. I am using heat shrink butt splices and terminals, and I soldered and covered teh solder connection with heat shrink on the switch panel. The heat shrink butt splices have the adhesive that flows when they are heated enough so no water can't get to the wire. I am trying to get as much of teh small, tight, connection work done on the bench before I mount things on teh board. I hate trying to work with wiring while on my back in an awkward position. I also pulled the transducer wire for my new GPS/Sounder from the stern to the console. I will try to post some pictures later this evening.
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Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
This is the back of the new switch panel. Each switch is fused. All the terminals are heart shrunk. This will be tied into the power buss on the fuse panel. A separate ground buss will be mounted on the backboard with the ground lead position for a piece of equipment on the buss matching the panel position location for that equipment.http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1335.jpg
This is the fuse panel. I am using this for equipment that does not need an on/off switch. It incorporates a ground buss right on the panel which I like. I can have the power and ground for an item use the same position on the panel. This makes for ease of location and troubleshooting or removal.http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1339.jpg |
Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Ron,
WOW, I think you are holding out on us regarding your skill level! It looks very neat and professional!!!!! FWIW, cable color coding is the only thing I don't see and that is likely because the devices concerned do not have a special color ID associated with them. It is a very minor point and i make it only in a general way. "Drip loops" assure that any condensed moisture/water runs DOWN away from the terminals and either drip where it cannot cause/contribute to any deterioration of the terminal connections and I seldom see it used. Very professional looking, very much indeed. CONGRATS! |
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BigLew – thanks! Actually for the switch panel, I have a VHF, GPS/sounder, livewell pump, running lights, anchor light, and bilge pump. All of them are red and black wires from the unit. The fuse panel will handle power for the Porta-Bracket, trim tabs, 12 volt accessory plug (cig lighter), fuel gauge, fuel flow gauge, and fused power for the engine hour meter and voltmeter. That leaves me two spare fuses for anything else that might be added in the future. What that would be at this point I don’t know.
I am indeed away of a drip loops – used them all the time with outside wire in the telephone industry. They will be there when the panels are mounted. |
Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Looks good to me - kinda like mine - easy to trace wires, they wiggle when you pull on them :D
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Looks like you're doing just fine...
Nice plan. Keep it simple.Look forward to seeing the balance of the project. :cool: |
Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Looking good Ron!!
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Re: 20SF Wiring Redo
Thanks Will. I have been remiss in not updating this deal. I did finish out what I wanted to get done. The wiring, with a couple of exceptions, had been replaced about three years ago. The only wire I totally replaced was the bow navigation lights - they were toast.
This image is the backboard I glassed to the port inside of the console. I mounted a six position fuse panel - it has its own ground buss - and a separate ground buss that serves the switch panel on the console. The extra coil of wiring is the tag ends for the unused fuse positions. This way if I add something in the future I won't have to be taking the wiring all the way to the fuse panel. I can pick up the battery and the ground leads off the coil and splice them in. BTW I used heat shrink splices that are totally waterproof in about half the connections (mainly the smaller wires). I used soldered connection with heavy heat shrink on the others (mainly the larger wires). I find that splices do not hold well on wire larger than than about 12 gauge. http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1340.jpg When you compare this next photo to the original you can see the work. The cloth looking strip is a piece of Kevlar strapping that the phone company uses to pull cable through an underground duct. It is extremely flexible, small, and yet has an 1800 pound breaking strength. I found it next to a pit they were working in and they gave it to me. I have it in place from the transom to the console. There is enough there that I can tie it together into a continuous loop. If I need to pull more wiring, I use the loop and pull it through and the tape stays in place for the next wiring job. http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1342.jpg This is the transom part of the wiring. You can see the other end of the Kevlar tape in the bundle. That tape was a life saver! All the black looking stuff on the left side of this pic is simply dirt/grease/oil. I am in the process of cleaning all that up as well. http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1343.jpg The neat part is that I now have a ton of room under my console on the shelf, and more importantly, everything works!! Actually, everything worked the first time with no mistakes! I amazed myself! I have a spreadsheet with 4everything listed by terminal number, switch number, and if applicable, wire color. Thanks for everyone's encouragement. Had I not found CSC I would probably have lived with the mess! |
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Wow...nice job Ron. I like how you roughed the switch panel before installing...makes it very neat and clean!!
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Wanna do MINE????
I can only dream of such stellar results. My work is consistent with that of native Americans...intentionally leave a mistake or less than perfect example in the total work so the Gods can enter and make it right/bless it by the gods. Absolutely terific!!!! |
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Thanks to all for all the input and comments. If I had not found and fallen in love with CSC, I would have probably just lived with the existing mess.!
I may now have the courage to tackle removing the Porta-bracket hanging on the transom. Way too much weight on the back end and I simply like an engine mounted to the transom. |
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One more picture - my wife helping me wire the back of the console... ;)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/...ca9a9c2f22.jpg |
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You sure did a heckuva job hiding all those wires your wife installed! :eek:
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That looks more like my console! It was done by Kerneltugboat. He's an engineer - I'm not. On the other hand it has woked well for four years now so can't complain.
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