1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

First, as many others have done, want to reiterate how great this site is as far as pics, ideas, and quality collection of info one place.

I purchased a 20SF I/O in Sept. that had been converted to a inboard (351 PCM) in '94. Intent is to convert to a outboard w/bracket. Lot of work to go and just getting started so I guess the clock starts now on how long it's going to take - with two kids and another boat , it's going to be a while . Deck and transom both need to be replaced as well as correcting of things undone by the inboard install. Engine is out and sold and just got the boat squeezed in my garage - starting to remove harware, etc. There will be some items that I don't plan on using so I will add a seperate post with pics in case anyone might be interested. Photos below.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...Fwdreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...ilereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...ernreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...earreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...olereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...inereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...outreduced.jpg

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

Amateur! - let's try pics again

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...Fwdreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...ilereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...ernreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...earreduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...olereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...inereduced.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...outreduced.jpg

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

wow, she really sat low...

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

why did someone ever do that...that had to kill the ride of that pretty old boat....it'll run GREATTTTT with a bracket

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

i think its pretty cool to see one like that. only because i havent seen one like that before.

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

Wow...if nothing else that sure is impressive that they fit that rig in a 20SF. Good luck with your restore and post up plenty of pix :D

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

For a minute there, I was thinking that was the smallest 23 inboard SF I've ever seen. And where was the prop cut-out. Then I noticed the header 20 foot......duh.....

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

What surprises me is that it apparently does not go through a V-drive. It really is a straight in-board!

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

BigLew, correct, was a straight inboard with the fuel tank under the old I/O motor box...I actually took it for ride before putting the motor up for sale and it seemed to ride fine although I have no comparison as I've never been on another 20. Maybe a little slow for RPM's/fuel compared to the original I/O or what it would be with OB - had no GPS or speed indication so would only be guessing - probably upper 20's @ 3200 RPM (1.5:1 gear). Couple times bumped the RPM's up by a few hundred and the boat really flew and handled fine but wanted to take it easy on an unknown engine. Any more details will be a mystery now....

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

That doesn't surprise me at all.

Under the circumstance, I doubt seriously the prop pitch, etc. was better than a "best" guess; and not being a V-drive, you had to probably increase the downward angle of the shaft/prop more than optimal. The other thing our outboard brethren seem not to appreciate is that the weight of an inboard acts as a terrific ballast. It really gives a solid predictable reaction to the hull's behavior in a sea and when it settles, it does so more predictably than an outboard which is, generally, less predictable given the leverage arm of forces (ect.) that influence it vs. simply the size and direction of the wave in question. The other part of this is that the inboard configurations generally are twice the weight/HP than the outboard thus the reduction in top end speed.

Oh well, just more proof to the adage, "You have to pay to play!"

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

Anyone want the original ( I think) seats off my '74 SF project? I will not use them since I'm going to outboard/bracket and they will be likely be going to the dumpster otherwise - They need some clean-up and probably some paint on the inside surfaces. Maybe those with the "keeping original" rule might be interested?

[image]http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/ae177/bhsteele/?action=view&current=IMG_7092.jpg[/image]

[image]http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/ae177/bhsteele/?action=view&current=IMG_7096.jpg[/image]

[image]http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/ae177/bhsteele/?action=view&current=IMG_7093.jpg[/image]

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

Re: 1974 20SF Rework / Modification
 

Bryan A - Thanks for posting this - I thought I had this right but apparently not...did not have time to explore why they did not post in the message earlier today - can you enlighten me?

Thanks

Well, took A LOT longer than hoped and a lot more $ but did have a whole separate boat purchase and re-hab project since picking this one up (that's my excuse). Real work started in late 2015 with separating hull and liner and cutting away unwanted fiberglass up to final paint and motor install this spring.

I might be repeating myself but seeing what others have done on CSC was instrumental in making this project move along even if at a snails pace. Been lurking here on a weekly basis or more seeing what others were up to.

My first time spraying Awlgrip (had rolled and tipped many times before). Learned a lot and the next one will be better.

Happy with the end result and can see reasons why people are fans of the ride even for this small of a boat. First time out and for me on any Sea Craft was to see the Blue Angles in the Chesapeake this spring and this boat ate up all the boat wakes afterward from a couple hundred boats going in all directions. Boat is going to be chasing fish in the coastal bays of DE and MD for hopefully a long time.

More photos of finished project.......

Very, very nice work!!! Just the right amount of original mixed with the new technology :)

She's a real beauty, congrats!
Rod

Wow - That came out great!

Thanks for the comments. Going to put some hours on this one a while before next one.

Wow that's gorgeous, came out great!

referb.
 

Hot Damn, You hit that out of the park. What a fine job!! Best of luck .

leaning post?
 

Is that a taco leaning post?
i like the 3 rod holders instead of the usual 4

Leaning post came from Fab Tech Marine in Daytona area. Billythekid used similar on his 20 project and I also liked the three holder look with the grab rail and gets the rods maybe more out of the way on a narrow boat. Hindsight would probably do 4 holders - same price and at times seems you can never have enough rod holders. Storage under the cushion would have been another option to look at .....

Post some pic's of your boat in the water if you get the chance. Came out very nice. Great job!

soooo many hours of labor!!!! boat looks great , did you raise the stringers? just asking because I have a freind who just bought one and it have the triangular stringers and I havent done one with those

WillyC- will do on pics next opportunity.

BTK- did raise up the stringers by 1.5 inches(2x .75 thick coosa scraps from transom) . Probably about 2 inches after glass and adhesive.

Nice Job!

Hello PackRat!

Awesome job...she looks great! Noticed your on the MD "shore". i am as well. Recently acquired a 1970 20' I/O. At your convenience, would love to see the boat up close and pick your brain on restoration?

Thanks,
Todd (Hard Crab)

Hardcrab sent you a PM.

Hi PackRat, , you did a fantastic job. I have a 74 20 also. The colors on yours look like what I have been looking at for mine. I thought I read that you used Awlgrip, but it looks lighter than the Seafoam, what colors did you use inside and out?

Also see that you raised deck and put through scuppers in straight to the transom, do they drain well and do they let water in when standing in corners of the boat?

Ok, last question looks like you went with e Simrad Go7. (I did) Did you need to buy the flush mount kit? I have the same console as you and have mine mounted on the bracket provided, were there any tricks to the in-dash install, did it fit just fine? (I thought the power cord and transducer cable would stick out too far to fit..?

Thanks Rybones,

The hull was Aqua Mist and the topside was Insignia White.

On the deck, raised about 1.75 -2” . No issues with draining. I have not noticed a lot of water on the deck but a lot of use is back bay and generally protected water where might not show up. Just standing in the stern corner in calmer water doesnt produce any water - Im probably the heaviest in the boat so far at ~200 lbs. i purchased the rabud scuppers but opted not to install them as didnt see a need yet. Ill try to get a photo of the water line on the transom to show you how it sits with this motor, bracket, etc.

The Simrad unit was just installed with foam gasket and corner studs that came in the box.
I do have a 1/4” starboard panel accross the whole area that pushes it out a bit. It is a little snug to the front of the console but didnt feel it was a problem for connectors or cable bends. Seem to recall that the connectors were toward the lower half of the unit and the space goes up the lower you go due to the angle of the panel. Id send you a photo but I pull the electronics for the winter ..... I can send you a photo of the cut-out. Just used the provided template.

Rybones,

See photos below:
Photo is rotated 90 deg CCW....The deck top surface is about 3.5" above the water line and the water line is about 3.5" above the chine at the transom for this boat. The drain tube was a fiberglass 1" ID x 1.25" OD that I angled down to make room for Rabud diameter below the bracket flange. Size was kept small to fit inside Rabud scupper diameter but I never installed.

I told you a wrong number - the starboard panel was 3/8" thick, not 1/4". I installed a 1/2" panel inside console to screw all the electrical components to so that took up a little room as well. Don't think you will have a problem fitting it in. Don't judge me too harshly on wiring as did not button all that up tight just yet as might add a few extras this spring , 12V power receptacles , etc. and need to route some wires.

Great build! I like the way you transitioned from the liner to the knees midway. I've got 1970 i'm starting in the coming months. I'm in MD also, but i'm on the other side of the bridge. Where on the ES are you?

Thanks for comment.
I’m in Centreville about 15 min. east of the Bay Bridge.

subd for future reference

Thank you PackRat. Again, great build. I have the same Starboard and space in my console so it will work perfectly for the Simrad. Great idea on the anged scuppers. Thanks for the answers and great pictures. I see in the picture of cap and liner inverted that it looks like you fit together peices of coosa re-core the raised platform and scraps or peices of material (Starboard and coosa orsomething else?) to re-core the wraparound-cap-deck, I figured you would have to redo that with solid or atleast much larger peices. Is it okay to use "peices" like that? Was it dificult getting the cap and liner out after you cut the main deck? And last question, how much foam did you have in the hull?

I had left over 1/2” Coosa nautical 15 from a prior project so used that where thought was best for higher loaded areas and wasnt worried about a few lbs of added weight forward. Also put it under rod holders, cleats for better strength compared to the lower density core.

White stuff was 4lb foam that was kerf cut to make it conform to curves. Makes it easy to cut with shop knife to minimize waste.Pictures didn’t show next step after bonding to cap with Core-bond, trimmed to a line and beveled edges of foam so laminate would lay with no air bubbles.

Core here has little strength compared to laminate. It just creates thickness which increases stiffness for a given laminate top and bottom. My opinion is fitting pieces is fine for this as long as you have a good bond to laminate and minimize/eliminate air pockets.

Transom is a little different animal as the loads are large and need to take these and bolt loads from brackets and spread them out via laminate and a stronger stiffer core material. Used the Coosa Bluewater 26 on my transom. Think there are other similar products that would be fine that may be cheaper.

Youll have to estimate your areas as my purchase records dont account for scraps I already had...

Good luck

Spoke to my friend who is the purchasing agent for Albemarle Boats and I ended up ordering some Baltek coring material from him. It is similar to Coosa, just a tiny bit less money, but, no freight since they shipped it to his facility. I don't know much about it, except that they use it in the transoms and bulkheads in all of the boats they build. Must be OK stuff. Picking it up tomorrow.

Baltex Airex PXC is essentially the exact same stuff as Coosa Bluwater, just made by Airex.
Its what I use in transoms too, but only because its what Composite One keeps in stock. They dont have the Coosa bluewater 26 for some reason.
Actually, now that I think about it I think Airex owns Composites One or summat.
Regardless its the same stuff.

Nice re do on the boat just catching up on some older threds...

strick