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Painting a hull
I've been knocking around the idea of painting the hull of my boat the same color The interior and gunnel can wait a bit. And I would more than likely paint the bottom either white or black
I do not think that the hull will ever be nice no matter what I do to it. What would be the steps needed to get it done. I did see the piecr on Ship Shape on the tip and roll or do I spray? Any advice |
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if u decide to roll and tip, id like to volunteer my help. id also like to know how to do it.
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I will call you when I get it ready.
Send me your phone number I guess I have to 1st sand and prep And since my business is all but shut down this week I plan to start sanding tommorrow. |
Re: Painting a hull
I have done 2 hulls with Signature Finish paint. I learned about it here and it does look pretty nice and seems to hold up. I have also used plenty of Interlux products (roll-tip) and like them too. I have found that with painting, especially roll and tip, thinning correctly and taking your time are key. It takes time to figure out but once you do you can get some nice finishes...even working outside. Color sanding and polishing really take it up a notch too. Go for it :D
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The tips that Capt. Chuck mentioned worked for me the best ... using one roller to apply to an area spreading out the paint to a thin coating. I rolled in many directions to get good coverage with the least amount of paint ... then IMMEDIATELY follow with a dry roller, rolling once over each area in the vertical direction. The dry roller takes off the excess paint and evens out the layer of paint.
The result was a very minimal orange peel which was easily buffed out to a high shine using the 3M product Chuck mentioned. Also helpful is to have two people, one applying the paint while the other does the dry roller. Important to keep your 'wet line' of paint going until you're done. IMPORTANT ... DON'T use a one-part paint. We used Interlux Brightside (one part), and it's not holding up at all. Go with one of the recommended two part paints. Hope this helps ... and good luck. |
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So today I begin by removing the rubrail and anything else on the hull.
What grit sandpaper should I use? What filler should I buy for the nicks and scrapes? |
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I woke up early and what a nice day to work outside temps in the low 70's
I took off the rub rail and the 2 side vents which I plan to replace and all the tru hulls. I have all the transom and 1 side done so far. I plan to do the various holes left over from the aux engine bracket which i sold and other screw holes from the inside 1st and then fill them in this week. I plan to go with seaform green and white on the bottom with a black boot strip I would like to do the rubrail in stainless to update the look but $$$$ (the admiral gave the approval on the color) http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...z/IMG_0001.jpg |
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Well it took all day but the hull is done
I started on the bottom but I'm going to rest until tomorrow. I have found that when you are doing a job and you become tired or fustrated you do not do a good job I also will be closing up all the screw holes in the transom Then I will go and get the filler for the scatches on the hull Any advise on what to use? |
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Try the Fasco products. They sand like fiberglass. The 2-part Fastone Epoxy putty works great. They are located near you in Hialeah, Fl. Hear is a link :cool: Fasco |
Re: Painting a hull
While you have access...go over the hull cap joint. fix if needed.
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I did look at that and its ok
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Hi Jorge
Jorge I can fish till my hair falls out and my eyes bleed and my hands cramp and then some.. But if I have to fix something cosmetically Im SCREWED... But that fasco product sands so smooth It makes a college ebucateded fool llike miself feel like a pro... I used the two part epoxy fairing compound about fifty a shot and hold up well below waterline. Sanded easy and turned out nice.. It looks so nice you tend to want to oversand thinking it can get better but only gets worse.. Best wishes and happy new year Chris :D |
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I HATE SANDING!!!!!!
I'm about 1/2 way done doing to bottom but in some places the strip away product left some areas with bottom paint. I've tried sanding it but with the dust of the bottom paint(which I'm sure it not good for you) I have a mask..... I think I will wait till tommorow and buy some more strip away and let it work. But overall I am pleased with the results so far |
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Sounds like you have time to post some pics :rolleyes:
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Here are a couple of pics showing the progress
Just as I wrapped it up and picked up the weather changed here..rain and a front coming in http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0003.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0002.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0004.jpg |
Re: Painting a hull
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strick |
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It's looking good on the prep work. This time of year down your way seems great for the Roll and Tip. She's gonna be one pretty MA.
Btw, Ya gonna fill those vents in?..Just curious |
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My idea is to have the vents but not in a way that water can get in.
The ones that came with the boat are in poor shape so I plan to get new ones. But now that you mention it filling in the holes might be agood idae. You guys just keep adding to the list :D |
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Those vents are there for a reason (bilge ventilation), so I wouldn't remove them. I believe it's a USCG requirement to ventilate the bilge unless the gas tank is foamed in, because SeaCraft has always had bilge vents and non-foamed tanks, at least in the Moesly and early Potter days. Don't know about the later models - they may have gone to the foamed-in guaranteed-to-corrode tanks with no vents style of many modern boats!
BTW - I wouldn't crawl under that boat with the way those cinder blocks are oriented! At least turn them vertical so all the load is in compression. The way you have them sitting, you're trying to BEND the top surface, and concrete has virtually NO strength in bending! Cinder blocks are much weaker than most folks think. If you have any more of the solid concrete blocks or wood blocks, it would be much safer to use them! At least wood deforms before it fails; concrete is brittle and fails without warning! |
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Thanks for the advise I will do that.
Also I have some wood shims between the blocks and the boat I also will have no foam next to the tank, I have seen to many where the water eats up the tank |
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Well I pulled the tank since I was tried of sanding. It came out pretty easily and not like the stories I've seen here.
It in not in bad shape but the places it is pitted is where the foam was in contact with the tank,. Most of the plces that there is damage is along the sides and again the top where the foam was on the tank. I wonder if the is anything I can apply to the pitted area to help it for a while. I'm going to see what a new tank costs and go from there although I am leaning to a new one, but either way no foam |
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Too cold ( by South Florida standards) to work on the boat.
Am going to shop for the primer and paint tommorrow. Also am going to see what to do with the gas tank |
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there is a place next to where i work called sunshine marine tanks. they will build u a gas tank. ill get u the number tomorrow if u like.
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would you be interested in selling that console? i have a 20' ma with the original console but it is the smaller original console. anyway if interested feel free to contact me at 305-797-0252
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not really I plan to use this one
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Well in beween the rain and the cold I got the tank ready to reinstall.
I took off the old foam and lightly sanded the affected areas and painted it. It cam out better than I expected. http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0008.jpg Now I do not plan to refoam and the tank has 6 flanges that I can use to attach to the sides of the coffin. There is some space that I can use to place some starboard that way it stays in place and no wood to rot. now what can I place under the tank to keep it off the bottom and hopefully let any water that does get in drain and dry out? |
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Jorge,
This is one of the most complete and straightforward discussions or installation/replacement of aluminum tanks I have found. I recommend you read it twice and make notes. Then plan your install. Good luck; keep us posted. http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm |
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Biglew thanks for the link
Yesterday I used some glass to fill in the holes on the transom. Prior I used some thickened epoxy and wood dowels and I went to finsh with glass prior to sand. I mixed according to directions and applyed some cut pieces of cloth. Well it was cold here last night (mid 30's) and today I went out to inspect and it was still tacky. I then placed a light next to it and within 30 mins it was now dry to the touch. This cold weather sucks and really hampers the little progress I am able to get done. I can just imagine the things you guys up north were it really gets cold have to go thourgh. But they say that by the weekend it's back up to the 80's |
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Plus putting them down for months at a time seems to take greater toll than the year round use of the warmer/transient boats does at least to me
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Fortunately I have some Broward county homing pigeons that I made Under Armour for. So I Strapped their little feet around the steering wheel. I just put her back in the water, got her out past the walrus and polar bears on the icebergs. Set her adrift you should see her in a few weeks. Don't worry I painted "jorgeinmiami" down both sides and rebel flag flying off the console so I'm sure you'll get it...lol
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I'll keep an eye out for it as it passes by Hatteras. :D
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When ya see it don't worry about all those valvestems drilled every three sq. feet that's just the tricky flotation system I thought of "fix o flat", were gonna fix the ocean flat around the cape in January...there's one for the bar... Uncleboo I think the piegon might even try to fly the boat through Oregon inlet and out Pamlico. Anyway just cut the valvestems flush for me to help aerodynamics for the rest of the trip it Should be dry by then. Again don't worry I did the flotation right, I worked front to back and side to side. Oh one last thing don't cut the one on the fuel cap that's also part of the flotation I filled with Hydrogen don't worry not much just until the noise stopped, rtv and a bolt in the vent so no worries about anything.
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Will do!
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Little by little I have been sanding off the rest of the bottom paint and filling in the scatches on the hull.
Almost there with that. I also removed the tank, removed the foam painted the tank and put it back in place. Looks like rain tonight and part of tommorrow and my son has a double header baseball game also. So I guess it can wait Pics of some progress Tank back in http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0009.jpg Bottom almost there http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0012.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/IMG_0013.jpg |
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Well I'm getting close and I feel the anticipation of when I try my 1st paint job.
Now question: I am painting the bottom white. What primer should I use? And then what paint should I use on top of that? And the amounts to by then in. Then the hull again primer, paint and amounts. And since I have the console out and stripped I mignt as well paint it too I do plan to spray it so what an adventure( the worst that can happen is that I totally mess it up and have to sand and take it to a pro. Suggestions please |
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Your gel coat looks pretty thin, so once you get it filled and faired, the first thing I'd do is put some Interprotect epoxy primer on it to protect the laminate. Had mine soda blasted a few weeks ago, and that's what I'm gonna do, since it took off more gel coat than I expected. After that it depends on whether you're leaving it in the water of if it's a trailer boat. Mine's a trailer boat but is sometimes in the water for as much as 2 weeks at a time. I'm considering either Signature Finish or Supermarine Revolution 1000 that Carla and I are currently running some tests on.
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So then I apply the Interprotect epoxy primer 1st and then sand and paint?
Is the application brush on or spray on? |
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