Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

With the temp finally being in the mid 50's here in Va Beach this past weekend I took the opportunity to start on my spring projects for the SF 20. Project list includes:

• Refinish the console (currently has 200+ holes in it)
• Repair all the cracks and holes inside the boat
• Make new fore and aft hatches, fuel tank hatch is in great shape as it was redone last fall
• Port scupper has a very slow leak, rather than repair the straight down scupper design, I'm going to move them to drain through the stern and put the ping pong ball scuppers on
• Repaint boat
• Mount the trim tabs I bought for it last fall
• T-top

Trying to have this finished by June at the latest.

Tore her down this weekend with the help my dad and some friends (bribed them with beer and the "you fish on the boat, you work on the boat" motto). Couple of teardown pics:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4452.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4454.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4455.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4477.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4482.jpg


The two huge open spots on the dash and where the wheel was were covered with starboard bolted on.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4469.jpg


Previous owner swore up and down it was bottom paint that he put on it to sell, I just opened the can of stripper and it seemed to start falling off, seems my suspicions of a "home depot special" were true. The other layers of bottom paint are a little more rugged and will require some sanding.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00221-4522.jpg


Couple of our aquatic vehicles:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00220-4472.jpg

Rainy here all this week but hopefully get to work on the console some in the shop. Forecast for the weekend is another beautiful mid 50's and sunny so will be sanding away.

Oh yeah, color I'm going with is Awlgrip's Sea Foam:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...10/seafoam.gif

I think she's gonna be purdy.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Ah yes.....the familiar sight of the ladder next to the boat for easy "in and out", I know it well. I also know all about the "200 holes" in the console.....a suggestion, buy the best sandpaper in the contractor size!! :)

Good luck!!

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

I can relate to your project..I'm in Yorktown but originally from VB and I've been restoring a 71' 20sf when weather permits...almost at the painting stage...as too the bottom paint...mine had about 3-5 layers of old bottom paint and I have found that the 15min gel style stripper from walmart works like a dream on bottom paint...just be careful not to gouge the existing paint by overly aggressive scraping....you will likely see me on the water in late April or early May...

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Wow...your haulin.

Nice 28 Moonie boat too :D

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

What type of bracket is that? How is the performance of the 175? That's the motor I'm leaning towards.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Coming along nicely! I'm up in VB 3 or 4 times a month making deliveries. Would love to come by and introduce myself sometime and see your work first hand.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

wtenglish - the bracket is a D&D, price was very right and its solid, customer service when I had questions was something to be desired though.

uncleboo - you got a pm

after an entire week of rain and the threat of snow, the weather is looking good for this weekend and my shipment from uscomposites got here today (ordered on Tues and got it fri with the standard ground from FL to VA, not bad ups, also was impressed with the packing job by uscomposites, very solid). project SeaCraft refurb 2010 continues tomorrow!

shipment of much needed supplies.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00227-4544.jpg

got the 2 gallon kit because I have some left over from my transom job, and looking through everything I pretty sure I got two different waxes (what happens when I get excited ordering things I guess). also not pictured is 10 yards of 1708 and 10 yards 1708 6" tape.

mission tomorrow is stripping, sanding, and more sanding, followed by an evening of hatch making in my garage. stay tuned.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Spent all day Sat and Sun finishing stripping off as much bottom paint as the stripper would take and sanding the no skid off the deck of the boat. Got about 70% of the deck covered, plan to knock the rest that out early sat then move to the hull.

Wanted to have pictures up earlier but didn't have many of the first hatch I made as my girlfriend was eager to help and take pictures:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00226-4547.jpg

But after making a small man, a cup, and a horse out of molding clay and taking 3 pictures she lost interest in being in a garage that smelled like duratec.

She did get two decent pictures of the process (that was borrowed from strick's famous "Here we go again" post). Below is after I measured the O.D. of the hatch and screwed down 3/4" board to the MDF, took clay and rolled it out to about a 3/8" diameter and then pushed it in the corners of the wood, then a metal spoon was used to make a nice even radius all the way around.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00227-4552.jpg

Another angle (the 3rd and last picture she took :rolleyes: )

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00227-4558.jpg

So rather than post those 3 pictures I waited until tonight when I did the rest of my hatches and took more myself.

Hatch O.D. is formed out of 3/4" wood, and mold release wax is applied, and then buffed.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4580.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4585.jpg

My anchor locker hatch (and fish box but that hatch is in good condition and I'm not remaking it) has indented rectangles where the hinge rests:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4588.jpg

I used strips of 1/4" plywood to make a place in the mold for those.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4586.jpg

Below is me test fitting the coring, on my first hatch I didn't bevel the edges and the fiberglass didn't like trying to bend at the 90 to go from on top of the core to the hatch, the 45 degree bevel made it a nice smooth transition.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4589.jpg

Duratec (had no idea the "Grey" was gonna be THIS dark) primer is applied onto the waxed surface and the corner pieces of glass are pushed into place forming the corners.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4596.jpg

Don't have anymore layup pictures after this but after the corner pieces are in place and the duratec is getting tacky I place 3" strips all along the edges and wet them out. Then I place a sheet of glass that overlaps the edges of the mold by about 1" on each side down and wet it out, after that is wet I lay down another sheet just like it on top. After that I wet out and place down my coring running 2" strips of glass along its edges so I can pour in thickened resin (thickened with wood flour) in between the coring. Then a final layer of glass is placed on top of the coring that is cut to fit the exact dimensions of the hatch so that it just lays on top of the other pieces and doesn't run up the side walls.

Here is a shot of them drying:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00303-4601.jpg

I'll be popping these out friday (ample time to set up as its a little cold here) and will take some pics of the finished product. This weekend looks nice so another weekend of sanding, scupper, and console work for me.

Thanks for looking.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Looking good. Out of curiosity, how does she sit in the water with that big 4s on the back? I noticed no tabs, you have any problems running?

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

She sits a little lower than the other 20's I've seen on here, but she is still self bailing (original deck) with 2 people + gas (haven't ran with more than that without the plugs in the scuppers before). The port scupper has a very slow leak so part of this spring refit I'm replacing the thru-hull scuppers with transom draining ping pong ball style ones.

The DF175 is only 54lbs heavier than the DF140 that seems to be the go to engine for the 20 here on CSC. When I installed the engine I pushed my gas tank as far forward as it would go, moved the console forward 3" and moved the batteries from the stern to the front of the console.

She runs great with that engine, like a bat outta hell. No chine walking or porpoising at all. I bought tabs for her last fall from csc member josh_wellfleet but have yet to put them on because I really don't need them, but am going to install them before the summer since they will give me a lower planing speed along with various other improvements.

Re: Spring project(s) 74 20SF
 

Nice job! You're really moving on that project.

I notice you're using epoxy, which I'd also use for a project like that. You may already know this, but the epoxy hardener has a bunch of nasty (carcinogenic!) chemicals in it. Even though it doesn't have much odor, I was advised by a professional boat builder to always wear a respirator and use nitrile gloves (the chemicals go right thru latex) when working with it. Here's a post on epoxy precautions that I posted some time ago with more info on the subject: http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...r=73245&Forum=,,,,,,,,,,,,,,All_Forums,,,,,,,,,,,,,,&Words=&Sear chpage=7&Limit=25&Main=73196&Search=true&where=&Na me=2198&daterange=&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=& oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post73245

Good luck with that project! Denny

Re: Spring project(s) 74 20SF
 

Thanks for the info! I had been using nitrile gloves up until when those pictures were taken as my box of gloves ran out and all we had left in the shop was latex, though I did triple layer the latex gloves. Interesting about the respirator though, I'll make sure to use mine next time I mess with epoxy as I'm rather fond of my lungs :cool:

Re: Spring project(s) 74 20SF
 

I just use waterbased epoxy, works wonderful in my lala land....lol

Re: Spring project(s) 74 20SF
 

For making parts epoxy is a big waste of money. I hardly use it anymore for anything...and I used to use it all the time. If you have to use epoxy because of the fume factor that you get with vinylester and polyester then use it otherwise you could buy 3 times the amount of isopolyester resin for the same price you buy epoxy. JMHO :D

strick

Re: Spring project(s) 74 20SF
 

The SeaCraft gods really have smiled on me this past month blessing me with rain all week while I sit in my cubicle making the pain of not working on the SeaCraft less and then giving me bright sunshiny perfect weekends, this weekend was no different, sunny and in the 50s.

First a little console work. My dad has been awesome enough to on the sunny days do some work on the console while I worked:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4602.jpg

The upper dash was filled with a piece of 1/4" exterior plywood encased in 2 layers of 1708 on the back and 1 in the front, it was then cut to fit the hole and 5 minute epoxied in place. The same where the steering wheel and throttle goes except in place of plywood it was 3/4" coosa board. All the edges around were filled with thickened resin.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4603.jpg

The other large holes on the console were then backed with a piece of glass while the smaller ones were taped and then filled.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4605.jpg

Once the fairing compound was sandable the entire thing was sanded down. The two huge dash holes were them taped off and a layer of 6oz cloth was placed on top of them.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4612.jpg

The next day the entire thing was sanded down again and then faired again, for hopefully the last time, that is currently drying.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4625.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4626.jpg

Saturday started with my attention focusing on getting the existing scuppers out while my saturday work crew finished sanding the non-skid off the deck.

If you're planning on removing your scuppers, and you have the brass nut on top brass plate on bottom style, do not try and removed the scupper from the bottom, the following picture indicates how to not remove these scuppers.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4609.jpg

After about and hour or prying, I finally got the plate off the bottom and cut off the flanged end only to find that the scupper wouldn't budge upwards. I framed on it, got the jack and a piece of re-bar and tried to lift it out (which picked up the whole back end of the boat), but it would not move. So I thought I'd try from the top, went to the store and bought ($12) a socket big enough to turn the 1.5" brass nut. Took the nut off and started to hit it from the top, took about 10 hits before it was out. Went to other side, removed nut, hit it about 10 times it was out.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4618.jpg

Starboard scupper 2 hours, port scupper 2 minutes, amazing how much faster things go when you're doing them right, haha. I then took the socket back and got my $12 back.

After a quick check on my saturday work crew (two friends who fish on the boat frequently and promised me every sat until she's done :D)

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4607.jpg

I went back to scupper inspection. If anyone is wondering what the inside of the thru-hull scuppers look like I took a picture. The brass tube runs through about a 3" cube of wood thats glassed, it sits on top of glass which is then on top of the hull:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4634.jpg

I'm rerouting my scuppers to drain out the transom, so these holes needed to be filled. I ground out a large area around them.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4641.jpg

Since I don't want water draining in the hole and saturating the blocks of wood before I got a chance to patch the bottom, I decided to go ahead and fill them. First I put a small square of glass on the bottom with 5 minute epoxy, this will be sanded down once the filler sets and replaced with a proper repair.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4647.jpg

Next a piece of glass about 4" wide and 10" long was rolled into a fiberglass cigar:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4649.jpg

The "cigar" was to be used as a filler for the hole rather than just filling with straight epoxy.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4650.jpg

The hole was then filled about 2/3 of the way full of epoxy and the cigar was pushed down inside.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4651.jpg

Then 3 1" x 12" strips of glass were then wrapped around the cigar cinnamon roll style to provide more filler.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4654.jpg

Then the rest of the hole was filled with epoxy.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4655.jpg

Once this sets it will be faired flush with the rest of the surrounding gutter. Each scupper took about 6oz of epoxy. The new scuppers will drain out directly behind the filled ones.

I also started sanding off the bottom paint that the stripper would not remove. Here's what the boat looked like sat night.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00306-4610.jpg

Here is how I left her tonight:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4629.jpg

You can also see in the picture where all the rub rail holes were countersunk and then filled with thickened resin, the new rub rail will get new holes.

This week I'll be working on this monstrosity of a hole:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4622.jpg

Thats where I cut out my splash well for my transom job and never got around to fixing it :(, my plans for it are to tab in (and then reinforce) some glass wrapped coosa running from the forward lip straight back to right above the hydrolic steering lines and engine wiring hole then glass over the entire thing and cut a hole for this Armstrong hatch I picked up.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00307-4657.jpg

Its 10" x 20" which between that and the two hatches back there I should have enough room to get access to anything I need to in the bilge.

Hopefully the SeaCraft gods keep smiling on me and sending Va good weather. Thanks for looking all :D

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Is that 1708 with epoxy? I'm surprised that you can get that to cure. The glue binder in mat always has ruined my attempts to use 1708 + epoxy . . . I always end up with a flexible rubbery 1/2 cured part or repair.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

All I've been using on this boat except when a pure cosmetic approach is needed then I use just 6oz cloth. Have had no problems and cures solid as a rock, my transom is 4 layers of 1708 and epoxy and is unmovable.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Sent you an email. Coming along nicely!

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Pricing and getting to the point of purchasing the paint. I trailer this boat and will not be putting a bottom on it so the entire exterior will be Awlgrip Sea Foam while the interior will be Matterhorn White (or some other variant of white that won't be blinding in the summer sun).

Can anyone who has painted their 20 give me any recommendations on the volume of paint I need to buy? I've searched the forums a bit and have found very contrasting numbers over the projects.

This stuff is expensive and I don't want to have a ton left over. Thanks.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Hey Seaplusplus,

Check out the link below orginally posted by Strick concerning Awlgrip paints....BTY I plan on shooting mine next week using interlux perfection 2 part....good luck and see ya on the water . :cool:
http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...rev=#Post76759

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Thanks for that post. So from that if I got:

2qts White
2qts Sea Foam
1 Gallon Spray Converter
1-2 qt reducer

For a total of 2+ Gallon material, that should be enough to spray inside and out with enough coats?

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

You will probably have some white left over. Remember that you mix equal parts paint with converter then reduce 25%...so 2 quarts of paint will yield more then a gallon of spray able material.

Duratec was mentioned in that old post...it's Ok to use duratec except I would not use it below the water line as you will want an epoxy barrier coat on first before painting. Duratec does make a vinylester primer and that would be Ok to use on the bottom.

What I'm doing on my 25 if duratec on the top cap and insides of the boat and 545 on the outer hull sides and bottom. Hope this helps.

strick

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Thanks for the replies, I'll run with this and post back how it turns out.

I forgot to mention that I found and snagged 1 Gallon 545 Primer + 1 Gallon 545 Converter for $105 total at a discount boat shop here locally. So got the primer covered.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Unfortunately I spoke to soon about the SeaCraft gods and weather cause this weekend sucks, rain through Monday, temps are good though, I think spring is finally here.

But when you can't work on the SeaCraft you can spend money on the SeaCraft right? Got an order of 2 qts Sea Foam, 2 qts Matterhorn White, 1 Gallon Converter, 2 qts reducer, 1 qt 545 Primer reducer with my local supply. $376 + tax. Pick it up monday.

Hoping better weather comes soon.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Had a change of plans this weekend. The weather turned out decent on Saturday, light rain on and off, so was able to get out on the boat and look around and inspect some things.

It's been nagging in the back of my mind that I needed to replace the deck. Unscrewing the console and leaning post brought up some nasty wood with it, other screws just spun in place losing all grip. A 36 year old floor was bound to have some rot, but I honestly could only find 2 soft spots, both of which were very small, everywhere else felt solid.

Inspecting some of the console screw holes in the deck got the best of me Saturday, and I decided that it would be stupid of me to not replace it now, instead of in a year having to rip everything back up, cut out the floor, and repaint the deck. If the weather was nice Sunday, I'd once again take the saw to my baby and cut up the deck.

The floor was marked about 2" from the gutters/hatches/obstacles and the circle saw came out with a blade depth of 1/4".

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4658.jpg

Got nervous while cutting at the amount of good dry wood the was coming out of the cut, fearing that I was cutting up a mostly solid deck vs doing spot repairs.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4659.jpg

Getting some of it up though I found lots of wet and rotten wood.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4660.jpg

LOTS of wet and rotten wood.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4663.jpg

Here is what the bottom of the glass looked like once it came up.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4665.jpg

Removing the top layer of glass was easy for the rotted parts, but for the very small areas were the wood was good it was a pain to get it to delaminate. Once the pieces were out, a chisel was used to remove all the coring still stuck down, most of which could be just picked up in whole 5" pieces of plywood. Shop-vac and broom used to clean up most of the little stuff.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4667.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00314-4668.jpg

The floor still needs some chiseling around the edges to clean it up, and then needs to be lightly sanded. I plan on putting down a thin layer of glass to toughen up the bottom layer of glass where needed. On top of that will go 3/8" marine ply coring encapsulated in resin, and then the decking that I cut out glued back down on top of that.

I was amazed at how much of the deck (about 80%) was rotten and how few soft spots I felt, had no idea it was this bad. Even though its depressing seeing no deck in her right now, I'm glad I did it, she needed it.

Also playing with the idea of getting some 6" x 12" x 1/4" thick stainless plates to fiberglass into the deck, which can be drilled and threaded later, to provide something for the t-top to be mounted to, rather than screwing it in, or cutting two holes in the deck on either side of the console to thru-bolt it. Thoughts?

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

""Also playing with the idea of getting some 6" x 12" x 1/4" thick stainless plates to fiberglass into the deck, which can be drilled and threaded later, to provide something for the t-top to be mounted to, rather than screwing it in, or cutting two holes in the deck on either side of the console to thru-bolt it. Thoughts?""

I don't know why they're all not like that! That's my plan when mine gets ripped apart. I was thinking 3/8" or 1/2" glassed in then drill/tap fine threads.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Looks like you're going to have one Sweet boat when your done!
I like how your leaving the bottom layer of glass intact, I have always wondered why that's not the standard technique, verses cutting it all out. The only reason I can think of taking it all out would be to re-foam the stringers or raise them? I would think your way should be easier then starting from scratch. Anyway keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming!

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

You may want to consider a Garolite material similar to this instead of a metal product. It's basically a high strength epoxy material that is reinforced with fiberglass mat.

http://www.jjorly.com/g10_fr4_sheets_fabricator.htm

Don at Hermco told me about this but it's pretty expensive. While browsing the McMaster Carr catalog for work one day I found an alternate product which offers similar characteristics although it's not as strong but a lot cheaper. I'm talking 10,000 psi versus something like 40,000 psi for the garolite. I'll be using it for the backing in my deck.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Thanks for the replies guys, I sure hope she turns out as nice as I picture it in my head.

I think I'm going to go with 3/8" plate drilled and taped by S-S Marine, when they install my t-top. Took the console over to them yesterday and they marked the places where they wanted the center of the plates to be. I will be installing (4) 6" x 12" x 3/8" plate, which is probably overkill but it will spread the load across the floor more and give some error room for the location of the feet of the t-top.

Over the past few evenings after work I've been cleaning up the bottom layer of glass and removing all the wet wood from under the lip at the edges. After lots of chiseling, scraping, and shop-vacing the bottom was ready to work with.

Yesterday over lunch I picked up 2 sheets of 3/8" Marine Ply.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4672.jpg

When I got off work I marked and cut the wood to fit the sections that I cut out. Test fitting:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4673.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4674.jpg

After making sure everything fit the floor needed to be strengthened up. It was very weak in some places along the edges where it had de-laminated from the old coring, and also some places were the top layer of glass had been cut out, some of the bottom layer came with it, taking the bottom layer down to the roven. The weak areas were toughened up a bit with a layer of 6oz cloth and the entire deck was painted with a thin layer of epoxy to beef it up a bit.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4678.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4679.jpg

In front of where the in deck livewell was the bottom layer of glass was very weak, it seemed that it was not laminated anymore at all near the back of the lip and you could flap it around. To resolve this we cut new coring strips to go under the lip and then cut a piece of 6oz cloth which was big enough to cover the entire area from the gas tank hatch to the live well. This was cut a little long (so it hung a little bit into the livewell. We covered the strips of coring with resin and then put them on top of the glass and then taped them under the lip so that the glass was forced back under the lip wrapped around the coring. This should laminate the bottom layer of glass back to the top lip again and strengthen this whole area up substantially.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4680.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4684.jpg

Pick of the wetted out/glassed deck:

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00317-4686.jpg

Didn't get any pictures of it but the longer sections of coring were glued together with a piece of 6oz cloth so that they can be installed as 1 piece. Making gluing down the coring a 3 piece installation, vs 5.

Also got some new toys yesterday for the console. Had a Lowrance HDS-5 that I flush mounted on the dash, found charter captin in NC selling his 1 year old HDS-5x for $350 ($549 new) on TheHullTruth after he upgraded to HDS-7's. Came with everything that came in the original box. Now I can do full chartplotter on the HDS-5 and full sonar on the HDS-5x flush mounted on the new dash.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00317-4691.jpg

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00317-4689.jpg

Hunting down some 3/8" plate now, hoping to get the deck wrapped up this weekend.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Pretty schweeeet project...Nice electronics...gonna be a dash full for sure...ummm do you ever make up your bed?

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

With all the work he is doing, he probably doesn't have time to sleep.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Haha Beach is my dad, just giving me a hard time :cool: Can see him in the 3rd pic down on my last post.

Speaking of that picture, I just realized where that other hammer went! Wondering where it went off to.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Coming along nicely! You're killing me with electronic envy. I think your father was asking about doughnut t-top opinionson another forum? Was that him & if so are you headed that way? Keep up the boat porn... :D

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Haha yeah didn't see that post but it was probably him, headed that way. Getting the top fabricated with a fold-able doughnut on top for cobia spotting. Not running the second set of controls up there just yet, maybe something in the future.

Gonna look something along the lines of this minus the control box.

http://cdn-4.psndealer.com/e2/dealer...boat_1_lrg.jpg

Got the plate today. Dad found a 3/8" scrap sheet for $1 per lb. Getting it cut tomorrow and closing up the deck this weekend. That top is gonna be rock solid bolted down to the plate.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

When you make your stainless plates consider also making the aluminum base plates for your t-top. With both in hand it will be very easy to get your hole alignment perfect. You can also just buy 1/4 or 3/16 stainless and weld nuts on the back instead of threading them. The just overdrill the wood under the nuts so it will drop in flush. If you bed them make sure to put bolts in holes!

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Blessed with a beautiful weekend. Temps in the mid 70s and sunny up until Sunday afternoon. Was in work-mode from 8am till 8pm Saturday so the pics are lacking but made sure to snap a few.

Sat morning started out finding the final location for my console in the boat and marking it. I'm moving it forward another 2" from where I had it, making the final resting place 4" in front of where it was factory. Last week I took it to S-S Marine (Top fabricator) and he marked the location of where he is going to install the feet of the top. So using these locations as guides and the location of the top, the plates could be marked, cut, and test fit.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00320-4695.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00320-4696.jpg

The plates are 3/8" aluminum not stainless. S-S Marine recommended aluminum vs stainless due to cost ($19 for 16" x 35" aluminum scrap, $150 for 12" x 24" stainless plate) and that stainless was unnecessary. Bimetallic corrosion would not be an issue as they coat all their stainless fasteners in sealant before installation. The plates are roughly 8" wide x 35" long, and run along the length and about 2" under the console. The console or leaning post will not be screwed to the deck, but rather screwed to 3/4" tall fiberglassed marine ply strips that will be epoxied to the deck, the only place were the deck will be drilled is the plates for the top, the plywood has solid glass on the bottom its coated in epoxy on both sides and edges, and solid glass on top, only place for water to get to it is screw holes, no holes in the deck = no water in the deck = no rot. The t-top feet are a little smaller than 3" x 5" which will leave about 3" of plate in front and 3" in back (roughly were I mspainted in the red lines). Went with 2 long plates vs 4 shorter to make locating them easier and to spread the load of the top over more area. The holes in the plate were there when I bought it as scrap and have been filled with thickened epoxy. I think its gonna work out great.

After everything was test fit, I cut some 2"x4"s and mocked them up in order to spread the weight after they were glued down.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00320-4697.jpg

After thickened epoxy was smoothed all over the floor, and all over the bottoms of the plywood coring. Coring was put down, and then weighted down (anything heavy in sight). Any area that was still sticking up due to high spots in the floor was screwed down.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00320-4698.jpg

The next morning I unloaded all the weight and took out the screws. Everything stayed in place and was glued down very well. A square was then used to check for high spots in the plywood by resting it on each lip and sliding it along the coring. High spots were marked and then using the grinder with a 60 sanding pad they were taken out so that the skins could go back on nice and even. The top layer of skins that we cut out were then cleaned up, sanded lightly, and test fit. A little more grinding was required till everything fit well. Everything was then shop-vac'd a few times. Lots of thickened epoxy was mixed and then all the cracks along the seams of the plywood and the few screw holes from the day before were filled. Thickened epoxy was then smoothed all over the plywood and the back of the fiberglass skins and then the skins were weighted down in place.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00321-4700.jpg

The seem all along turned out pretty nice and even.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00321-4704.jpg

All the seams will be ground out a little bit, filled with thicken epoxy and then 2" 1708 tape will be placed all along groove. Can only buy rolls at my local supply but at $29 for an 8# roll of tape it was cheaper than shipping what I needed, have about 60 yards extra :D

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Raining all day today so before we closed up Sunday night I put the tarp over her to ride out the storm.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00321-4706.jpg

Also noticed from the dates on the pictures that today is the 1 monthiversary of this project!!! ;)

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Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

That is looking great.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Updates!

The deck was allowed to set for 2 days. Then the weights were removed and the few screws were removed. Everything stayed in place and didn't flex back up when the weights were removed, looks good.

The seam between deck skins was then ground down about 2" wide, shop-vaced a few times, and then wiped with acetone.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4708.jpg

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4709.jpg

Epoxy was then mixed with filler till about a ketchup consistency and then poured into the seams till there was no more crack, just the ground out area. 2" 1708 tape was laid up over this along the seam.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4710.jpg

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4711.jpg

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That will set up till Sat (raining tonight) and then I'll start sanding, a lot of sanding.

These is a piece that I haven't focused on yet:

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4716.jpg

Has been fabricated to plug this hole:

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00307-4622.jpg

Its 1/2" marine ply that has 2 layers of 1708 on top and 1 layer of 6oz cloth on the bottom to waterproof it. I might replace the hatch I have for it down the road with something a little more classy, but will seal it up for now, and it was the right price. Couple more pictures:

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4717.jpg

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00324-4720.jpg

My dad spent some time yesterday while I was at work fitting, sanding, fitting, sanding, fitting, sanding, and then finally installing the piece.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00325-4726.jpg

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Before the piece was epoxied in place marine plywood supports covered with glass were tabbed in place to hold it in all the places that are red.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...0307-4622b.jpg

The piece was then laid in place and epoxied down. It still needs to be tied in to the existing area better, and made to look like it belongs there, but I think is going to turn out good. Glad to no longer have a HUGE hole there.

Applied the first application of System Three Quick Fair on the hull sides.

http://yuengling.zeropinghosting.com...00325-4723.jpg

Sanding in the forecast this weekend, lots and lots of sanding.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

Hey Seaplus, Did your Dad sell new Seacrafts in Va Beach in 2003. If so I bought a new 2003 21' from him. Still have the boat and love it.

Re: Spring Project(s) 74 20SF
 

bj - Yup that was him, got out of the business a few years ago though.

Sorry for the lack of updates. It seems that whenever I have any paid contractor (save my Zuke mechanics, they are a godsend) directly involved with my boat nothing goes to plan, I mean nothing.

Took the boat over to Cobbs Marina on 4/02. My dad's 28' master marine was painted there and is a great facility/crew, owner is there all the time ready to bend over backwards to help you.

Their travel lift really knows how to make a 20' SeaCraft look small.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00402-4735.jpg

Got the boat there and up on blocks and started to work on the bottom paint. The jelly-fish consistency fiberglass paint stripper worked like a charm in the upper 80 degree heat. By the end of the day had it ready to sand the next morning.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00402-4743.jpg

Also got a coat of epoxy + fairing filler on the sanded fiberglass tape on the deck and the stern repair.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00403-4747.jpg

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00403-4748.jpg

Spend day 2 up underneath sanding off the little remaining bottom paint and sanding the faired deck.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00403-4761.jpg

Once the deck was sanded back down we cut and measured the mounts for the leaning post and console. As I said before to prevent water intrusion into my new deck I'm mounting the leaning post and console to wood that is glued to the deck. The console and leaning post were put in place, and feet measured out. Then the deck was sanded down and the pads were glued in place.

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.co...00406-4768.jpg

The console mount is 2 strips of 1/2" marine ply with a piece of 1708 in between them and painted with resin. The top edges were rounded out and stick out about 1/4" when the console is sitting on it. The leaning post pads are 1-1/4" tall African Mahogany with 1708 between it and the deck to help fill any micro voids. They were also painted with resin.

To prevent them from moving around while curing, a 1" area of 5 min epoxy was used on each end of the leaning post pads, and the ends + middle of the console strips. They pads were held in place weighted till the 5 min set up. Thickened epoxy that oozed out from under the pads was then cleaned up and they were allowed to set up overnight.

The next day a thick bead of West System Six10 ($13 a tube at Paxtons)

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...on-highrez.jpg

was applied and then radius-ed around the edges of the pads to a) give it even more holding strength/fill the edge b) clean up the edge a bit and make it look more factory. These pads will be Awl Gripped white with the rest of the deck. Its almost a shame cause the Mahogany is actually quite pretty but would look off as it would be the only exposed wood on the boat.

Now for what went wrong. My plan all along was to have it painted at Cobbs by one of the many painter that work out of the Marina (Cobbs doesn't actually have any on staff). I was assured before I went over there that they had plenty people capable of doing and not to worry. Second day I was there we had the most recommended painter there come take a look and give us a quote. He seemed fine except he had no idea how to overcome the blocks on the bottom since we are AwlGripping the bottom too (trailered boat, will never sit more than 1 day in the water), said he had never sprayed a bottom or heard of anyone doing that. :D His quote was a little high in my opinion for just gun time (I'm supplying all materials, cleaners, doing all prep, etc), but he came with high recommendations so I figured you just pay for quality.

We talked to the owner and got it cleared to use the travel lift to hang it from the lifting eyes over the weekend so he could paint without blocks. He agreed that he could work with that. The next day he comes back over and says he doesn't want to do it. Doesn't think he can do a good enough job (there are 3 boats around us that he painted that look great), doesn't want to paint in this yard due too dust (he told us yesterday he works exclusively out of this yard), and is worried about putting AwlGrip on a bottom and if it doesn't turn out it would affect his reputation. So not even 24 hours and I don't have a painter, no worries there has to be another good painter who needs work. Call up 5 different painters who work out of that yard, all say no because they didn't get to do the prep and don't get to buy the paint so there isn't enough money in it for them. So I was almost done with the prep and ready for primer and sitting there racking up a bill at Cobbs and couldn't pay someone to paint my boat.

Finally I found a painter who wants to do it. He has his own shop on the other side of town, indoors, experienced, comes with like 5 recommendations from people over at tidalfish.com. Had him go over my boat with me which he offered tons of advice that I can do a little more prep here and there and get an even better finished product. Offered to use his shop to finish off the prep if I want, just lock up when I'm done. :cool:

In the end it definitely worked out, and I am more confident that I'm gonna get a great paint job than I was at Cobbs. Pulled the boat outta there on Friday and its in my driveway until I'm ready to take it to his shop. All in all it wasn't a complete waste of money, storage for a week there was $300 ($100 each time they move it with the lift and $15/day), so basically paid $300 to removed all the bottom paint I couldn't reach with the trailer and get the bottom 95% faired out. More updates soon.