New Member with New Boat
 

I bought this boat off this Forum Last week. And I'm so excited to own my First SeaCraft.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01374.jpg

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The first post work so Here's a few pics as it sits now. I want to document this build because I know what a priceless resource you all are. Reading other members post has given me the confidence to take this of when everyone around me thinks I'm nuts.
Here's where I'm at.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01375.jpg

PO cut out the gunnels and recored the cap. I plan to beef up the sides as strick did on his 20. I was thinking of using RMAX from Home Depot. Bad Idea?

Also does this look to be original fuel cell. If so looks to be in good shape. I think I want to go bigger for those 60 mile runs to the ledge. Maybe will In Jacksonville can chime in here, for a local fuel cell builder.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01376.jpg

First project is cutting down original console. I cut 10 " out of middle yesterday. I want room for the Ttop legs and room to walk around my boat. I don't think thats too much to ask for.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01372.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01372.jpg

. . .

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Welcome to CSC St Aug!

Looks like you are well on your way. Lots of Top Notch refurb people on board to help you!

Keep us up with your boat porn :eek: :cool:

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Welcome aboard!! Good idea on the console, the more room the better. Don't kid yourself though; you are nuts, we all are!! The end product is well worth it though :) :) :)

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Do you already have a t-top? If not how wide is your center console after the thinning? I have a t-top that won fit the stock width seacraft console. Let me know if interested

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The console is now 34 in at the flange and about 30 in where the standoffs for the t top wil be.
I don't have a top yet.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

That was a good deal, I wanted to buy it and already have one LOL - they came with a 40 or 70 gal tank, I have a 40. For that run with a good tank already you might go a car wash and get a 30 plastic chemical tank, a new tank is pretty pricey, easy conversion.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

St. Aug, I called Florida Marine Tanks which was on the label from my original fuel tank. Although they still have a 305 area code they are in North Carolina now. Shipping wasn't to expensive but I arranged pick up at the UPS hub to save $75 for residential delivery. Although your a good ways out you should probably go with a 3/8" fuel pick up instead of the 1/4" which was standard. I recently spent $60 to swap mine out when I found out what the manufacturer required for the engine I want to buy. Your console is looking good but will take a lot of work to get it back together so it will sit properly. I am happy with mine but since they aren't square they have a tendency to "rack" and you will not be able to tell until you sit it on a flat surface after it is put back together. However, I am glad that I decided to modify my original instead of buying a new one. Should be painting it within the next week!

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I have a ttop I am looking to get rid of but I don't think it is wide enough for you. It is only 27 in wides from inside of the right poll to the inside of the left poll. And 17 from fron to back. But if you are taking 10 inchs out of the center console it should work. If interested pm me

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The 27" measuement, is that between the standoffs? How wide at base?

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

27 is at the base

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Progress slow. My landscape co. takes all my free time and my Fam gets the rest. Did get the console hammered out. Cut out 10 in" from center, removed front seat and laid up a panel on my molding table to fill void for gauges.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01416.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01391.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01417.jpg
I'm a bit farther along then pics show. The whole console needs a once over with the sander and I want to work on the flange some more.
I also began to tear out the floor. PO said the floor was fine. It was rotted on starboard side but was tough to remove because the solid glass rigging tube tore up every blade I had. More pics to follow.

PS thats my lil 17 Mako in the back. It needs to go up for sale soon but I like having a running fisher while the Seacraft is under the knife.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Started with some part making. PO had Hermco make and install the transom cap and he built a transom live well in it. So I went to making a resessed hatch to glass in.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01547.jpg
That was the mold
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01548.jpg
and the part it made.

I'm on a budjet and using what I have around. I sanded the ply wood waxed several times and wiped pva on with a sock. I brushed on a thick coat of poly resin then did my lay up.
First 2 try didnt cut it. 3rd needs a little work but will do.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The only way to make a part like that out of raw wood work is to seal the wood first. Preferably with dura tec. If not that any good paint. Then the surface will be smooth. Now you can wax and then use PVA. The part will then pop right out.

Sometimes trying to save a buck...will cost you several more bucks... :D

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

smooth wasn't the problem. It was bubbles between the first and second glass layer. I had some real real fine cloth laying around and used it for the first layer and the second layer didn't bond to it well and made flimsy pockets. The rest came out smooth. I sanded and waxed the raw wood and didn't have any release problems it popped right out smooth.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

made some progress. I got most of the floor out and first glassed the cutouts to foam fill the stringers. The forward port wedge floor support had seperated. The void wasn't fully filled with foam and I think the floor and fat bead of potter putty caused it to seperate. I filled with foam, trimed off excess and glassed over that to.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSC01565.jpg
Also on the port side, the back of the rear wedge/ stringer had been cut to allow for fuel fill and breather. Was this factory or to acomadate a different fuel cell?
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSC01567.jpg
I used some pink foam insulation board to frame the sides. Glassed those in, then filled with foam, trimmed and glassed again. I was unsure about the foam but, figured it would be a good place to experiment cause it wasn't structural. Outcome was good. I can smack the side with a small sledge and it does not compress the foam.
Last picture shows a piece of angled metal screwed to the stringer. Is it a repair or has anyone else seen this?
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSC01568.jpg
Next step is to raise the wedge/stringer and mount supports on the inside of the hull for the new floor.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I've raised the stringers and glassed the new fuel cell supports and am trying to decide if I should put the tank as far forward as I can near the casting platform or closer to the center. I plan on running a 150 4 stroke and transom has a live well. I want to balence the weight but don't want to bury the bow in big seas or comming through the inlet. Any insite would be greatly appreciated. I'll post some progress pic soon.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I am kinda in the same boat as far as where to place my tank. I will also be putting a 150 4stroke but installing a bracket too. I have a 175 Johnson (#375) on it now and run a 30 gal baitwell under the leaning post and the boat rides just fine. I have tabs on it but could either use some bigger ones or maybe move my tank up a couple feet when I redo my boat this winter, just to get the bow down some more. Are you going to do a bracket or just mount the motor no boat.?

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The 20' hull was designed for motors of about 300 lbs! If you're gonna hang a 500 lb motor on it, especially on a bracket, I'd move that tank as far forward as you can, especially if it's a cc, which tends to be more stern heavy than my Seafari! Maybe put the batteries in the console too!

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Seacraft84 I already have a Hermco Bracket PO had installed. Thanks Bushwacker thats what I thought, I'll secure the tank as far forward as posible and batteries will be under the console.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Are you going to do a Yamaha or Suzuki 150?
I will probably get to work on my Master Angler in a couple months.
Are you going to keep the spray rails on?

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I'm leaning toward the Yami, but they are both great and price and warrenty will influence my choice. I plan on keeping the spray rails. One is in good shape and the other is crack and split so, I think I'm going to glass them over and make then one with the hull. This weekend I cutting and fitting the floor.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I believe i will go with the Yamaha. My father just took one off his boat and is willing to sell it to me.
How far is your bracket set back off the transom?
I am going to get a guy local to weld me a bracket and was curious what kind of measurements to give him.
How high are you raising the floor?
Where are your scuppers going to be?
Thanks

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

The floor will be 2.5 to 3 in higher when done. The bracket places the engine 28 in back. When your ready I can give more detailed measurments. I'm not sure about the scuppers. I have some ideas but want to test fit the floor before I make my final call. Some have directed them out the side and that mod looks pretty straight forward. I like Stick aproach, but want to make sure the floor is still below the swim platform for a straight shot.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Right on. Thats sounds to be about the same approach I am going to take. I also am unsure about the scuppers. I redid a 23 about 3 years ago and ran them out the side and found some thru hulls that had a recessed flap to keep the water from coming back in. It worked pretty good, so I may take that same approach. I also had raised my floor about three to four inches.
Just trying to sell my motor on my Master Angler right now then I will start on my restore.
Are you going to put any kind of strips of wood along the sides of the boat to secure the floor to or just use raise the stringers alone.?

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Put the 150 on the boat a couple days ago. 41mph full throttle, 28mph @ 3800rpm. Two guys, 30gal gas, t-top w/curtains. May be able to get 45mph out of it raising the motor and different prop.
Got another month of fishing in and then start tearing it down.
I may raise my floor 4-5in as the boat sits now. Maybe moving the gas tank forward I could get by with 3-4in higher.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

seacraft 84 I glued cellular vinyl molding to the side of the hull then glassed over it. Its on good and won't rot out. I havn't put up pics in a while so. . .
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...y90210/232.jpg
Heres my template
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...y90210/236.jpg
Lay up with recessed hatch for fuel tank acess
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...y90210/240.jpg
trendy beer shot
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...y90210/242.jpg
friggin' aligators. How long do I let the dura tec dry before layup?

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Heres some more shots of the floor. I used 3 sheets of a/c fir. I tabbed both sides of all three sheets togeather with 1708 and epoxy then glassed both sides with straight bi axal no mat. I rolled the play wood with thickend epoxy first so the wood would not soak up all my epoxy. I then layed up 3 panals with iso poly resin to save some fairing and mold the recessed areas. I bonded te panels to the wood with fpr liquid nails.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...acraft/001.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...acraft/002.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...acraft/003.jpg
This will be my bilge acess and scupper channel

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Hopefully I can get my deck in the weekend and mold the big fuel acess lid so can tear down my molding table and park cars in the driveway again.
I'm happy with my process for the floor but the panels could have been cleaner. I can fix them but Its going to take time. I can't afford to start over I've got too much resin and glass invested in them.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Looks good. Keeps us posted, as I will refer back to your build when I get into mine.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Thanks. Hopefully I can get the floor in this week. It's been a big project and I hope its all down hill from here.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Normally the checkering appears because the dura tec was not fully cured.

On my own projects I would spray the dura tec one day and then do the lay up the next day.

I also added some reducer to let it flow better and to help it dry in the Fl. heat and humidity.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Thanks island trader. I thought it would bond better wet on wet, but Ican see how the dura tech kicking might cause the resin to kick premature. I'll let it set up fully next time, thanks again.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

You can usually see alligators appearing as you are laying down the skin. Another thing that I have found is that it is best to lay your duratec or gel coat in one application. If you put down a thin layer of gel or duratec and then re apply another coat later then second coat may pull on the first coat creating alligators. They make a gauge that you can use to measure the thickness of your duratec or gel coat. Too thin gel or duratec can lead to alligators as well. Make sure you sand the alligators really well before you apply fairing compound.

strick

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I rolled on just one thin even coat of the dura tech. So to recap my mistakes I didn't let dura tech cure, applied to thin and probably was a bit light on the mold release. I should of messed around on some small stuff first. Thanks everybody for the help.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I went through the same thing that you did the first time I tried.

My best purchase was the $15.00 touch up spray gun. First flash spray a coat of dura tec. Than lay on heavy coats to get the desired thickness.

I also use the spray gun to put the mold release on. It goes on easier and does not leave any streaking or gators :D

My Uncle always said "the right tool for the right job" Of course my wife thinks I have too many tools and not enough jobs.... :D :D

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I talked to customer service at us composites and I think I mixed the dura tech to hot. Problem solved? I still have a couple of hatches to go so we'll see.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Usually improperly mixed catalyst or not fully set before laminating. You can also use a mil gauge to help get the required thickness.

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

Been a while since I last posted. I've been trying to get the floor fair. The alligators gave me hell, but I figured it out and relize a little extra prep can save me hrs sand fixing etc.http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01736.jpg
Mold for under gunnel support
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01737.jpg
The Lay up
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01741.jpg
There will be two one for each side. These came out great and needed no fixing.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01739.jpg
Hatch for bait well
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01742.jpg
I'mm glassing in the teak spray rails. One was really busted up and I didn't want to replace them.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01740.jpg
I've faired the hull and will glass it, I glassed the inside face of the cap and still need to address the fish box.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/DSC01738.jpg

Re: New Member with New Boat
 

I took the holidays off from the boat and finnaly got back to it this past week. I own a landscape company and Jan. is always slow/dead.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSC01790.jpg