Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Hello, all, new member here.

I am with a California State University. The University has owned a 1977 Seacraft 20 for decades - probably since she was new. First she was used by the Marine Biology Department as a research/dive boat. When they were donated newer/larger replacements, they were very sorry to see her go. After sitting idle for about 5 years, she came to my program at the university, Sailing. I hope it isn't a mortal sin on this forum on use a Seacraft as a coach boat and for towing around sailboats! :o We love this boat far better than the Whalers commonly used for this purpose and recently won a grant to be able to restore her. She needs it! The threads on restoration here will be invaluable.

But first, I hope you will help me help me make a decision about a new outboard. She currently has a Yamaha 130 two stroke, I don't know if this is the original engine or not. We do have a grant to purchase a new outboard. The current outboard seems a bit heavy for this boat; we have had to put lead weights in the bow, along with two anchors and their chain, in order to keep her reasonably level. She seems very low in the stern, though, and did flood twice during this year's unusually heavy rains.

What we want out of a new outboard is something less of a gas guzzler, quieter, better able to take extended idling and low speed operation, and still have enough power to tow our sailboats. It would be nice if it was lighter, too, though that may be a tall order. On our grant proposal, we asked for a Mercury 115 four-stroke, but comparing weights, this might just be too much. The specifications plate on the boat, that should have the info I need on maximum engine weight and HP, has long since been oxidized into oblivion.

I should mention that we are towing sailboats that weigh 2 1/2 tons, sometimes more than one at a time. In fact, we were racing against a rival University and needed to tow the sailboats to the starting line due to light winds. The other university's 20' Whaler was having problems towing their boats, so I ended up towing the ENTIRE fleet of 8 boats (2 1/2 tons each)! The good old Seacraft with her 130 did it in style at around 5 knots.

I would be pleased to hear suggestions for new outboards for this old girl that will help her continue to be such an excellent safety boat. We promise we'll take her fishing once in a while when she's done being fixed up! :D

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

The '77 20' Seacraft was rated for 175 hp, which means a maximum 385 lb motor, as the 20" Evinrude/Johnson 175 of that year weighed in at 385. In contrast, the Yamaha 20" 130 TLRR weighs 360 lbs. Both are close to the weight limit for the boat as manufactured.

Having managed a SeaCraft marina during the early 80's, I can tell you that the most common motor we installed on 20' SeaCraft hulls was either the 85/115/140 hp Evinrude/Johnson, at 320-335 lbs; or the 90/115/140 Mercury/Mariner at 297-315 lbs. (The inline 6 cylinder Mercury outboard is actually the motor the hull was designed for).

The 115 Mercury 4S with 20" shaft is 399 lbs, and the Merc 115/125 Optimax 2S is 375 lbs. Both are good motors, but 60-85 lbs more than the hull was really designed for. The new Evinrude Etec 115/130 is also 390 lbs. The Suzuki 115 4S is 415 lbs, the Tohatsu/Nissan 115 2S is 378 lbs.

All this means you're realistically looking at a 400 lb motor when you replace the Yammie. The Etec and the Optimax, while both 2 strokes, have excellent reputations as very economical engines at extended low-speed operation, and develop higher torque at low-mid range rpms.

I can find nothing negative to say against the 'Zuke, but I love my current 90 hp Optimax on my 20' Seafari. Given my choice of current motors across the board, and staying below 400 lbs, I would choose the Mercury 125 hp Optimax, with the extended (6 year) warranty. Without the extended warranty, I would probably choose the Evinrude 130 Etec. Both have a standard 3 yr, non-declining warranty. If I remember correctly, tests showed the 130 Etec actually dyno-testing at 141 hp, and the 125 Optimax at 133 hp.

But in the refurb, I'd raise the deck a couple of inches, and raise the transom to 25", AND install a top-quality Samson Post for towing.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Your best and apparently according to Frank about the only option would be the 130 Etec - now you can move the battery under the console that helps a bunch. When towing though the stern will want to squat, I would consider putting transom wedges on it to get more negative trim which would help that alot - their cheap and easy to install when they do the motor, their just alum wedges.

The new motors, all of them are just much heavier than the 70's although I'm not why excatly. I have a 410# 200 Merc with 2 batteries under the console and a T Top, mine will self bail at rest just fine. 2 people standing in the back it will come up through the scuppers but that actually is what they were designed to do - in and out.

Not sure if your using 2 batteries but its a pretty good idea and mounted up front should help too.

The Etec is very close in sound and fuel to a 4 stroke - will have much more lowend torque which you need and - absolutely no maintaince for 3 yrs, honest you don't need to touch it, just pour a couple gallons of oil in the tank a year.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Greetings Windrider,
Along with Fr. Franks suggestions the E-tec 90 is 325 lbs and might be worth a look.

I don't know if it has the guts for your pulling task, but they are otherwise perfect for that boat if you're not concerned with exceeding 35 mph. In addition to moving the batteries forward, you might consider moving the console forward and removing extra counter weight altogether.

You a Keelhauler? Just curious, what class of boats are you pulling and in what water, if you don't mind me asking? Catalina 37? SF Bay?

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Thank you so much, Frank! Excellent info and just what I need.

A little more info on the boat just came in from a Marine Bio professor who said he logged hundreds of hours on her for research. Yes, they got her new and she came with a 90hp Johnson. I guess someone thought that was too small, because a decade later they got the 130 Yamaha, but the prof admitted he always thought it was too heavy for the boat.

I had already mentioned to the refurb crew that raising the transom would be a good thing, since I can't imagine that the whole transom won't need rebuilding anyway. Hadn't thought about raising the deck, but will talk to the Shipyard about it. She did get hauled out today! Work has started on the bottom, which has a zillion student-applied layers of bottom paint (with something that looks bizarrely like primer in between the layers).

Okay, I have been racking my brain about how to put a samson post on this boat and couldn't figure out how to. Can you give me an idea, Frank? I have only ever seen Samson posts on boats with inboards. If put on a boat with an outboard, how do you keep the towline from rubbing on and interfering with the outboard?

I don't think we need the full 130 HP. I hope we will never again have to tow 8 sailboats at once, more usual is one and rarely two at a time! The boats we tow, while heavy, tend to be easy towers. Once up to speed, they stay there with little help and track very well. I will have to look into which of the two-strokes mentioned are actually available in California (with our strict CARB regs).

McGillicuddy, it isn't just our SeaCraft that is a Classic! Our keelboat fleet is actually quite a bit older. We have five 30' Shields, which are a motor-less inshore racer/knock-about, basically just a scaled down version of the meter class America's Cup boats. They were made by ChrisCraft. We are Fleet #20, Cal. State Long Beach. It has been a long project, but we have been restoring these sailing classics to their former glory as well.

Shields hull #10 (yes, 10!) with the Seacraft in the background:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ider/n_a-2.jpg

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

OK,OK, I'm going back to school to San Diego State and joining the sailing team. Those are beautiful boats and certainly deserve the refurb efforts.

I don't know about your Conference's boats, but I STRONGLY suspect that your fleet is the most classic of the bunch! I crewed for Ann Boyd, past National Jr. Champ in Y-Flyers. We sailed 505's when I was in school with her.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

I think a 90 is too small a 115 might work OK but not sure you save any weight. The Etec is a the cleanest greenest of them all with latest tech out there, no problem in CA unless they ban outboards which is possible. The 130 is really perfect on the boat, all new ones were rigged with 150 Mercs at my shop and we were big, that 130 I'm sure would equal.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Fantastic picture! Those Shields are beautiful boats. I was guessing you were up at CA Maritime Academy...Sorry... :o
The Merc and Evinrude - Optimax and the E-tec, respectively, are both CARB 3 compliant direct fuel injection 2-strokes. They are clean, quiet, strong and efficient, often exceeding the 4-strokes rivals in their hp class in all categories. Tohatsu also has DFI strong, reliable motor but I believe they are only CARB 2 compliant. They sell quite a few 2-strokes down in SD and I'm sure it is so in the south bay.

Good luck with your selection. And welcome aboard!

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

If you're going to tow, a Samson post is much better than a bridle. While having the post fixed to the keelson is best, there are two common types of Samson posts in usage that are not anchored to the keelson.

The first is called a tow pylon, and is nothing more than an extra heavy-duty ski pylon, bolted to the deck in front of the motor, with two load bearing arms traveling backwards to the transom. The bitt of the towing pylon is usually high enough above the deck that the tow line passes above the OB motor cowling under strain. This one is at SeaTow in Boston, and also has a protective hoop to keep towlines out of the props:
http://www.seatowboston.com/images/b...V_Tow_Post.jpg

The second type of unsecured Samson post is for use on full transoms and is often used for securing anchor rodes on the bow of a boat, but has a more limited capacity. With a good backing plate and the cap securely fastened to the hull, it would easily pull at the limit of force a 130 OB motor could apply:
http://content.westmarine.com/images...ull/212381.jpg

I highly recommend the first of these.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

to add to the vote for the e-tec they are running a sale with a 5 year warrenty

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

We're holding our Annual Regatta here in Edgartown, at the EYC.
We have 6-8 Shields racing right now!

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Thanks for that first Samson post pic, Frank. We always thought it would be great to have one, but this really helps visualizing how it can be done. We could have something like that made quite easily by the shop on campus.

Anyway, after much discussion amongst the program's coaches and the Shipyard maintenance guys, we have decided to go with the 90hp Etec. Now I expect some to say this is going to be an underpowered boat, but if I list what this boat's "job" is, you can see why we chose it.

This is a coach boat, a safety boat and support boat for sailboats that almost all the time are able to get themselves around just fine, thank you very much. Towing is the most heavy-duty job this Seacraft has, but it is a very rare job. We had to remind ourselves that before we were fortunate enough to score a free Seacraft we managed to tow the Shields around okay (but not pretty) with a 16' Whaler with a 25hp.

This Seacraft's job:

1. Coach Boat. Follow several Shields - or sometimes our whole huge fleet of Lasers (130lbs each) - out of the Bay into the ocean (average speed, 8 knots) and then provide a stable platform so the coach can yell at, er... I mean coach, the students.

2. Committee Boat. Same as above except the Seacraft might actually have to get up to planing speed for a mile or so while running upwind to reposition a race mark.

3. Safety Boat. If for any reason, students are in the water and need to be fished out, the Seacraft comes to the rescue. We have more often had to rescue members of the general public who were NOT in our classes. But the fact remains that this boat very often has too many people aboard (also when coaching and being race committee boat). This is the main reason we went with the lighter outboard, there have been many times with this 130 when the deck was slightly awash due to water coming in the scuppers.

4. Tow Boat. If a sailboat breaks down (uncommon), the Seacraft will have to tow it home, no more than three or four miles. She also tows if the wind dies completely while a class is out. If the heavier sailboats (like the Shields) get caught out in extreme Santa Ana winds and need to come in, they will need to be side tied one at a time to the Seacraft in order to be eased down on what in those conditions becomes the windward side of the dock - without scratching that expensive shiny new black paint we've put on them. This is also uncommon. On rare occasions we've had to tow the sailboats to race locations due to lack of wind - this can be a fairly good distance down the coast - but usually the sailboats can get themselves there with windpower and the Seacraft is just the escort.

5. Escort Boat. A few times a year, we do sail the Shields to Catalina Island (23+ miles) and the Seacraft is the escort. This is one of the few occasions when that boat is powered on a plane (unless whoever is driving wants to troll while being escort).

6. Multipurpose Boat. Okay, I'll admit we do sometimes use this boat in ways not in accordance with her stated purpose in our program. :D We have been known to have covert wakeboarding sessions (loved the nasty looks we got from the ski boat owners showing up with what is obviously a fishing boat). We have actually been known to FISH from this poor boat. She is also an excellent dive boat, but again, too much weight aboard has been a problem for this in the past.

So you see, we need safe and steady rather than fast and powerful - even for towing. We've been advised that if we find the 90hp needs more "guts" for towing, we can always change out the prop for more low-speed power.

Thanks for all your input, guys! I appreciate it!

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

You really need to begin by propping for "max of max at max" with the new motor, once through the break-in period.

Propping for "Max of Max at Max" means you can turn the maximum of the Maximum range at maximum load. The Max RPM range for the 90 Etec is 4500-5500 rpms. Since the Maximum load of that hull is 1508 lbs including the motor, "Max of Max at Max" means you want to be able to turn 5500 rpms with 1200 lbs of people and gear in the boat.

If you prop it so that it just turns, say 5000 rpms running light with only one person, when you load it up, you might be really bogging the motor, and seriously shorten your motor life. Since, like the Optimax, the Etec has over-rev protection, over-revving really isn't an issue when running light. A good operator won't over-rev anyway. :)

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Hi all, I'm reviving this old thread to give an update on the restoration of our Seacraft coach boat.

We had some serious delays getting started; this is a state university and our restoration grant was from a state agency. You know how quick the government is about getting things done or getting funds to those to whom it is promised.

Anyway, we've got the old Seacraft hauled out and mostly restored. I've got some "before" pictures for you now and I'll get some "after" pictures later this week. I missed getting pictures of the "during" process due to my teaching schedule, the holidays and abnormal torrential rains we've been getting (I know, most of you guys have snow to complain about).

Here is our poor, neglected (but free!) Seacraft 20CC just hauled out.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...aCraftPort.jpg

I have supervised the restoration of many of our school's sailboats, but this is by far the worst bottom I've seen! Sometime when she was in the Marine Bio Dept, someone thought it was a good idea to put layers of primer between the layers of bottom paint. It was coming off in sheets everywhere (note the ground under the boat in the pic). The white you see here between the blue is not the bottom of the boat - it is primer with another layer of blue under it - and another primer and paint layer under that.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...aCraftDeck.jpg

Cockpit shot. Notice the red portable gas tank. Yeah.... this boat's permanent 40 gal tank had about an inch of sludge in it when we got the boat. We've been running her off of three 7 gallon tanks and just swapping the line around as we drained each one. The 40 gal tank has since been removed, cleaned, and inspected and is good to go again.

Stern shot with the old 130 Yamaha - to be replaced with a new E-Tec 90. The lift has never worked for us (also to be replaced), so the Yammie is looking a little beat here. Also note that the cheap plastic vents are crushed. Yeah.... we are sailboaters and none of us can seem to get the hang of how powerboats make turns, and we keep bumping the corners against our slip. :o I am looking for some hefty flush stainless steel ones that can hold up to some bumping.

The rail on this boat has been just barely hanging on since before we got it and very little glass under it to reattach it, one of the many things to be repaired. Can anyone tell me where to get this type of replacement rub rail for a Seacraft? It is nice and soft black rubber instead of this hard plastic everyone is using now days. For a tow boat, the soft stuff would be much better

Thanks!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...CraftStern.jpg

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Good to see you back,Windrider. I've been looking forward to your re-power results.
Seems me CSU-LB could sell me the old motor - no? let me know if they auction it off... ;)

Rex Marine is in San Dimas I think they carry Taco Marine/Taco Metals Products. They are at www.rexmar.com

Also www.tacomarine.com and www.rubrails.com

While you're at it you'll probably want to re-adhere the gunwale cap to the hull and re-rivet. Your be amazed how it will stiffen the boat and keep water out...

Might check the brass scuppers out too as they are often the source of water ingress and a quick and very inexpensive fix...
Good luck and keep us posted. Happy New Year!
:cool:

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

:D Well, we already traded the old motor to the Shipyard towards labor and new parts. Sorry! We do a lot of trading, since our funding leaves a bit to be desired. When we first got the Seacraft, that Yamaha had been sitting for five years all frozen up - steering was frozen too. We traded a couple tiny beat up donated outboards that we couldn't use for the labor and parts to get this one working. We do the same thing at our local sail loft with donated sails we can't use. Let's hear it for the barter economy!

I took a look at the sites you gave for rubrails. Nope, that is the stuff I've already seen. Everyone sells "flexible" vinyl rails, but that stuff is still pretty hard. What this boat has is just plain old rubber, I think. Like they put on many of the sailboats of that era. Except this is two parts and has an insert, also rubber. Seems to us this rail would be far more kindly towards our sailboats when side-tied for towing (yes, we use fenders, too). I would hate to put this old one back on, though, when everything else will be all new and shiny.

Already done! Yeah, we were having problems with water coming in the seam when the seas got bumpy.

I hear you! When we first got this boat, we launched her and she promptly began to fill with water from brass through-hull leaks (do you powerboaters call them through-hulls?). So she was immediately put back on the trailer and those were replaced. What we've done this time around is probably sacrilege here; we've glassed over all the through-hulls for bait tanks and such. We will never use those anyway. We only kept the two aft scuppers. I don't know about powerboaters, but we sailors try to keep through-hulls to a minimum.

Thanks for the pointers, though. All of us in our program are pure sailors, so this powerboat stuff is a learning process. Note that this boat's name under the Marine Bio Dept was "Naturalist," but our sailors have been jokingly calling her "Necessary Evil." :D

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Here in south MS we call you guys "Blow Boaters", just kidding. ;) :D Good luck with your project. I had a 20 Sceptre with a 200 Yamaha 2 stroke and it sat fine, however I had a larger tank built for it and moved it farther forward. I also didn't really load the stern down with people gear etc. :cool:

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

The brass through-hulls I think Gillie was talking about are the aft deck-drains, which are brass tubing, and normally drain vertically straight down through the hull. They usually end up leaking like a sieve.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Looks like you're ahead of the curve, damn academics :D ... Check with Wefco Rubber Mfg in Canoga Park re. rub rails. Try Wefcorubber.com.

Oh, yeah, if you haven't yet taken delivery on the motor you might consider replacing the transom or at least raising it to take a 25" shaft motor.

Caring for classics like those Shields I guessing you're far more savvy with maintenance than most... :cool:

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Thanks! This looks like the place! I'll have to get a cross section on the old rail and try to match it, although it looks like Wefco carries many that will work well.

I wanted to have this done. Really. I thought for sure that the whole transom would have to be replaced due to rot and we'd have it done at that time, but the Shipyard guys did all sorts of tests and found it to be quite solid still. Plus, there was the funding issue, you know. So she is going to have a stock transom and a pretty basic boat everywhere else, too. None of these awesome upgrades I've been reading about here. We're just making her into a more sturdy version of what she was already.

Let me see if I can remember everything that has been done so far:
Bottom stripped and re-faired
Gunnel cap resealed and riveted
Deck reinforced (but not raised)
Extra bulkheads (?) installed in the forward area (under the gunnel) to stiffen that section up
All extra holes glassed (how do boats always end up with so many holes everywhere?!)
Stress cracks glassed and those areas reinforced
Full paint job in school colors
All new hardware, gauges, motor, etc. (She is currently a totally naked boat that just got her new paint)

This week, I will be taking the console over to get a new windshield fabricated. I will also be looking for reasonably priced lean posts. You know a boat is hardly ever used at full speed when its crew is using plastic lawn chairs (yes, we are totally embarrassed about being so tacky).

After everything is put together and the boat is in the water, we are going to see if we have any money left and then look into having a samson post made like that one on the towboat Frank posted.

Well, yes and no. We are finding that the stresses on a sailboat are quite different from a powerboat. You never worry about the transom on a Shields - all the stress is at the chainplates and that is where they usually fail. That said, since we all admit we know very little about powerboats, when Evinrude gives us the instructions for breaking in that E-Tec, we are likely to do EXACTLY what they say.

Those were replaced back when we first got her, oh, back in '05 or '06, otherwise she would have been a SinkCraft. The original ones were quite corroded. Do they need to replaced again now? They haven't been giving us problems.

There were two other through-hulls, going to what I think were the bait tank and the fish locker? Those are the ones we glassed over.

Yes, we also hear the term "Wafties." But we call you guys "stink pots." And our students often comment, when a overpowered and overloud powerboat races by, that the powerboat's (male) owner is making up for a lack in another area (this belief is especially dear to the female sailors). :D

(On a funny side note, we were donated a Laser that proclaimed in big letters that its name was "Blow Me." We coaches stripped those graphics off about five minutes after taking possession of the sailboat).

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Hilarious...
I grew up sailing in Midwest - learned the ropes on Intl. Optimist and then a wood Sabot. When I started sailing a Hobie 16, I thought that was it. But my taste for classics led me to racing Thistle class. Love the Thistle.

I was actually looking for and considered a beautiful Cape Dory Typhoon, and then a well used Montgomery 17 prior to finding my 20' SeaCraft.

After recently finding my 21', I told my wife no more boats. But next one will be a Montgomery 17. ;)

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

I grew up in the 60's with both powerboats and sailboats. My grandfather owned a 45' Rybovich sportfisherman and a yawl-rigged 41' Morgan.
My father owned a 1923 40' Matthews (only 9' beam) and a 19' Aristo, and a great-uncle owned a brand-new '69 SeaCraft Seafari with a 105hp Chrysler, which later became my grandfather's boat. That's when I first fell in love with SeaCraft. I used that boat like it was mine (I even called it "my boat").

My first boat came in early '68 at the age of 8, when my brother and I bought an 8' wooden center-board sailing punt. (We later bought a 9.9hp Chrysler for that boat.)

The first SeaCraft I actually purchased was a 23' SF with twin 115 Mercury inline 6 motors. I picked that up in '83 while I was working at a Seacraft dealership. Later that same year I bought my grandfather's old Seafari from my cousin, who had rigged it with an inline 150hp Mercury.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

We share our sailing center. Our boat yard must have about 50 Sabots for use in the youth program, though only the one in the front used as a flower planter is wood. It seems like all the locals learned to sail on Sabots as kids at our sailing center.

When I took charge of CSULB's program I worked hard at getting us donated a small fleet of Hobie 18s. There is no doubt that the adrenaline junkies in the group LOVE those boats. The 18 was Hobie Alter's premier design for wave jumping - all catamarans can jump a wave, but the 18 is one of the few that will LAND afterwards - without a pitchpole, that is.

I remember hauling along on one of our 18s in a wind advisory, half out of control, just barely holding it together - and passing up all these fishermen in small powerboats struggling in the chop we were just flying over. Like this:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...er/Hobie18.jpg

No doubt catamarans are a thrill ride, but you might as well go swimming, because that is how wet you are going to get!

Sailboats are pretty regional. I don't think I've ever seen a Thistle in real life, though I know what they are. Our bay is full of Lidos, which look similar to a Thistle but smaller. I teach my beginners on the Catalina Capri 14.2, which you probably never see outside of the West Coast.

Typhoons are a wonderful classic. I like my boats to be a little sleeker than the Montgomery, but there is no doubt that boat has a lot of room below for a pocket cruiser.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Not as fast as my Seacraft, but I keep trying.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...rIMG_2521a.jpg

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Ooh, a Lightning! Yep, those are hot rods.

To bring this thread back on topic... our 20's console is all painted, shiny and ready for me to take it to get a new windshield fabricated. This boat was given to us sans windshield, so I don't have an old one for a template.

I stole this pic from somewhere on this site to use as an example, since this looks exactly like our console, even down to the darker acrylic shade strip/splash guard thingy behind the windshield and the strip of aluminum across the front of the console (purpose unknown to us).

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...0059_large.jpg

My questions:
How tall are these "original" type windshields, measuring top to bottom across the front? How thick is the acrylic? (our fabricator says 1/4" will be good, seems kinda thin to me - if it makes any difference, we will be adding a stainless grabrail/protector around it like in the pic) Do you guys prefer clear acrylic, slightly smoked, or very dark? (I've seen all types here)

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

1/4" is good, I have a tinted one and it is impossible to see out of with dark glasses on while sitting - forget in the dark. I think there are 3, clear, smoke and a darker tint, mine is probably the darkest

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Here you go.
http://www.updplastics.com/seacraft%...indshields.htm
The aluminum 'thingy' is the retainer for the backrest cushion. The cushion would have come with a barrell-shaped piece of plastic stitched into the top edge and it just slides in to hold the cushion in place. ;)

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Thanks Uncle Boo. That looks like a great place to get a windshield, but I can't find where it lists the schematics and measurements, though the home page says they are there somewhere. Guess I'll have to email them unless someone here can give me the height measurement.

That makes sense. We don't have anything as posh as cushions on our sailboats - the Shields only have a teak slat bench. But we might have to get some cushions for this Seacraft if that is how they were stock. All that was long gone on ours by the time we got her.

Oh, Gilly, I thought of you today as I was watching a group of Thistles practice for the upcoming Midwinter's Regatta. My mistake, I was thinking of Bulls Eyes for some reason when you said you liked Thistles, probably because Bulls Eyes are another of those very classic sailboats like the Shields. We do have many Thistles here in So Cal, just no Bull Eyes that I've ever seen.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Update on "Evil's" refurbishing. Topsides and deck finished and painted (in the school colors) and it is time to start fairing the bottom. This boat had one of the worst bottoms I've ever seen, so that is why it is looking a bit chewed up after removing the old zillion layers of bottom paint. Since we'll have bottom paint on it anyway, we aren't going to bother getting it as nice as some of those beautifully faired bottoms I see on some SeaCrafts here.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../Seacraft2.jpg

Had a little trouble figuring what the heck to do with the boot stripe on a SeaCraft that will be stored in the water. I much prefer the look of the boot strip following the chine all the way to the stern, but I don't think we did too bad here.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Evil is looking very good. Though I think you should change the name to "Elvis". You can use the same letters.:D What kind of paint did you use?

Dave

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Sweet!! Hope it doen't convert too many of your sailors!! :D

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Well, this boat is flashy enough to be "Elvis," but we think "Necessary Evil" is a fun and amusing name for this boat. We once had an old battleship of a lesson sailboat named "Student Driver" so this is par for the course for us. Only our Shields get traditional ladies names.

Both deck and hull have been painted with Awl Grip, same as we did for our Shields. Even used the same non-skid method, which we are now thinking is going to result in some lost skin for folks on this boat until it wears in a bit. It is really "grippy" right now (i.e. it is about like sitting on a rasp).

Sad to say, it is too late, Uncle Boo. The sailing students are just about foaming at the mouth thinking about wakeboarding behind Evil this summer. There are also a record number of sailing students in the SCUBA classes this semester, so they are looking forward to some summer diving at Catalina Island. That means I really HAVE to find a good swim step for this boat. What sort is traditionally used on Seacrafts? I might be able to find a used one of those full stern teak ones if it isn't too hard to fit.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Most folks with outboards prefer the half(assed?) platforms so you don't have to worry about interference with the motor. It's pretty easy to make one like this one that I had before I repowered:

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...rnsomnogas.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...twfullfuel.jpg

I made it from a 4' piece of 1" OD SS tubing; bent it into U shape with a conduit bender. The teak planks were about 2-2.5" wide x 1" thick, spaced about 1" apart and mounted with 1/4-20 SS machine screws that were countersunk into the planks and covered with teak plugs. You'll need a drill press to drill holes in the tubing for the plank mount screws. Used the same SS fittings you'd use on a Bimini top to mount it. Works best if mounted right at the water line so it's awash when lowered. It's fairly light and easily removable. With one 8' length of tubing, you could make one for each side. If you want a SERIOUS swim platform, you need one like this on my friends old SeaCraft 21, the "Unohu"!

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...LunchBreak.jpg

BTW, I think you made a good choice with the 90 E-Tec for all the towing you'll be doing. Those motors run in an extremely lean stratified charge mode below 2000 rpm, so they burn even less fuel than a 4-stroke or ANY other motor when you're running at hull speed. My V-6 only burns about 0.5 gal/hr @ 5 mph, and that I-3 90 hp is exactly 1/2 of the V-6! There really is no break-in required for those motors because the engine computer keeps track of time @ rpm, and it feeds extra oil to the motor until you accumulate something like 5 hrs above 2500 rpm. If you have any other questions on the motor, go to this owners forum. It's run by some very knowledgeable technicians. I would suggest using ONLY the XD-100 full synthetic oil right from the start. It burns cleaner and you'll use less oil if you have the dealer reset the computer for it. BRP says you don't ever have to do a periodic decarb to keep the rings clean, as is required on most 2-strokes, if you use XD-100. If the boat still seems a little stern heavy, you may also want to consider running a 4-blade prop. The extra blade provides more stern lift and made a dramatic improvement in low speed planing and acceleration on my boat. Good luck with the new rig! :cool:

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Thanks for the info on the swim steps, Bushwacker. The other thread on dive ladders was also useful. We'll see what we can come up with.

"Evil" is finally going to the Evinrude dealer this week to have the E-Tec installed! I am looking forward to posting how she performs with the new outboard.

I am glad to know that someone agrees with our choice of the E-Tec. Bushwacker, your statements about the E-Tec were indeed the selling points that caused us to choose it. Both the Seacraft and our Whaler spend an awful lot of their time just idling or moving at slow speeds. We needed a motor that was efficient doing that. The Yamaha was very unhappy about that sort of abuse and was always gunking up somewhere. We'll see if the new Merc we got for the Whaler does as well as the E-Tec with this kind of use, since they are both new and will be put in use at the same time.

This is what the welding shop on campus came up with to replace the corroded aluminum edging around the transom cut-out. They didn't have the equipment necessary to do that little radius the original had, so they just welded some rod to the flat SS to protect that edge. Not very pretty, but it should work.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...er/SCStern.jpg

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

That'll work.

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

That's some pretty fancy SS trim your shop came up with! Should hold up better than the original aluminum extrusion.

Hopefully they will install a good water separating filter like a Racor with a bowl on it so you can check it for water. The newer motors have a filter on the motor with a water sensor that will provide a warning on the I-Command gage, but I'd rather catch the water before it gets to the motor! That gage will also display water temperature. These motors run pretty warm at low speed, up in the 150-160F range, for good combustion and to help prevent plug fouling. Salt deposits start to form at about 165F so they push it pretty close. Temps drop to about 145F over 3500 rpm.

I would definitely use Marine Formula Stabil, Startron or the like ALL THE TIME, as today's gas will start to deteriorate pretty quickly otherwise. You might consider running a 4B prop on that rig, as it will provide extra blade area for more low speed thrust for towing or planing with a heavy load. The extra blade will also provide more stern lift to help you stay on plane better at lower speeds. My old "115" was only about 90 hp at the prop, and that new E-Tec is probably a little stronger than that, as BRP appears to be sandbagging on the power ratings. A 13 3/4" dia. x 15" pitch 3B SST was the perfect prop for it with the 2:1 gear ratio; if the new 90's have a similar gear ratio, a prop of about that size should be a good starting point for your rig. You probably won't run over 32-34 mph, so 15" pitch should be about right. With a 4B prop you'll want less diameter, maybe something in the 13 - 13.5" range, but the dealer should have several different props you can try. Good luck with the new motor! Let us know how it works out!

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

When I was a young toddler, Papa won a Sunfish in a raffle. My sister said I loved it, but I don`t remember it. I think Mom thought one of us would drown and had him sell it.

When I was 9, I started crewing for my sister on a Beetle Cat, which is not a cat at all. It does resemble a beetle when turtled. The Committee boat was not happy with me as I was not in the race.

About ten years ago my sister invited me up to a marl bottomed lake north of Ann Arbor. Looked just like the Keys.
They had an old Hobie and I invited her to the good old days. I launched us over the mast coming downwind before the dock. Jibe Ho!

Cheers
GFS

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

That brought back memories and made me laugh. The first time I solo'd an 18' Hobie I was 15 years old and off Singer Island I pitch-poled it twice in the first 20 minutes. 2nd time I landed astride the mast. All I could do was hang on and moan for the next 20 minutes. :D

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Yowsa!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rider/Etec.jpg

Re: Outboard Options for Classic 20
 

Lookin' good! :cool: When is the maiden voyage?! When do we get a performance report?! Let us know how you like that E-TEC!