20 MA project continues
 

After Ken furnished me with a trailer I have gotten a 2nd wind and need to finish my 20MA.

To day I was inside the boat and noticed a soft spot in front of the console which I had not remembered was there.

Since I'm going to be painting the whole boat I want to do it once.

Measured out the soft spot and took a saw made the cut and peeled back the skin which I want to reuse.
Well the wood was wet.
Question why do they use small pieces of plywood and not just a large piece?

Well anyways the deconstruct continues.

Thanks Ken for making work today... :D

skin off
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...20Pics/006.jpg[/image]

Wet Wood
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...20Pics/008.jpg

under skin
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...20Pics/007.jpg

wood out
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...20Pics/009.jpg

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I think a Thank you to Ken a very appropriate response... :rolleyes:

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

that's been done

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Normally you would use smaller pieces of wood so that you won't have any voids under it and that it will be easier to level to the surface and or be able to crown a surface.

Think of it as the same way as tiling a floor.

Plus I think the mfg. wants to use up all the scrap he has... :D :D

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

The late Moesly/early Potter hulls used balsa core everywhere except under the seats to minimize weight. I'm guessing Potter switched to plywood on the later boats to save $ as he was beginning to run into financial problems.

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Finished taking out the wet plywood and took a small electric chain saw and was able to take out some wet some dry wood all around the cut then finished the bottom of the cut out skin.

I imagine the replacement plywood needs to be coated in resin 1st and on the bottom that faces down use additional resin to get a bond.

How far do I need to grind around the edges when I lay down the skin?

Pics to follow

Thanks

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Put boat on trailer to see how it sat on it and it looks pretty good. Took the fenders off and am going to get the cross members replaced. I also need a jack for the front

I know it's a pain to take the boat off again, but I could not wait to see how it looked

AGAIN THANK YOU KEN!!!!

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/100_0973.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

In addition to Terry's points, the use of smaller pieces also eliminates undesired warping or cupping. This would be most significant if one were to use inferior grade ply full of knots, voids, and non-waterproof glues. If you'll revisit Strick's "I need a shrink" thread, you'll note how Strick took it a step further by actually leaving gaps between the wood squares and filling the voids with his resin mix, effectively sealing the end grain of the wood pieces.

Boat looks good on a trailer, Jorge.
Just one note - you might consider setting/stacking the cinder blocks so the holes face the ground and sky. Much stronger/safer that way. :cool:

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well after a too ong of just seeing the boat in the driveway and all the really nice days I picked upthe project again.

I cut some 5x5 pieces of ply and taking advise from Strick's project leaving spaces in between the squares I used a thickened mix in between them.

If you see anything I may have done wrong nows the time to let me know.....PLEASE

Have to go run some erands with wife so later in the after noon I plan on replacing the skin.

I'm close to closing on a town house in Islamorada and I want to have the boat for use down there.

I hope once I get down there if there are any of you guys down that way I hope you drop in. With a special invite to Ken
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...tofconsole.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

When a noob gets a job at a yard they make him cut sheets all day long, every day. Then he gets to clean out the dumpster.
If he still shows up, they may hire you.

End grain balsa can localize intrusion.

You`re using poly right?

Ideally, the bevel is 12 to 1. 1/4" = 3 ". Try to make an accurate ramp when beveling. Fill with small pieces of glass going bigger as you fill. Another ramp if you will.

For the raw core I would flash coat it first. Mix the poly and when it gets warm cut it w/ acetone `till the consistency of milk. It will really soak in and give you good tooth for the glasin`.

Cheers,
GFS

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Did some work on the console Still plenty to do.

I wanted to move the helm to the left and throtle to the right like on most of the boats that I have owned but now looking at it the helm may get in the way of the "glove box" opening.

Well on to sanding and fairing and sanding and fairing. [image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...cs/console.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

After I get the boat preped for paint my plan is to use Dupont Marine Paint in Cobalt Blue. Interior will be a shade of white ...not sure yet of the shade of color
A mako member did his boat and it came out great.
I was looking to go with seafoam green but I think I may get tired of that color and the boat is a blue from factory

I stll need a lot of work ahead of me but my plan is to do at least 1-2 hours a day after work. Maybe in 2 weeks I'll be ready for paint.

I did locate a guy in the redlands area that rents out his spray booth @ $100 a day I do plan to use it when ready.

So if anyone in the Miami area wants to look over my shoulder while spraying I would welcome it.

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Hey Jorge looks like your making some good progress! i might want to take you up on that offer to see you paint, where in the redlands is that?, i also need to paint my hull and that sounds like a great opportunity. where in miami are you, im in cutler bay.

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I live in Pinecrest just off of Old Cutler and 67 ave

When I'm ready I'll call you we can both learn how to paint

Send me a PM and let's exchange contact info

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well I did simething wrong.
The skin I put back on when I step on it feels like it did not bond with the wood under it.
It feels spongy.

Options I imagine is to cut it out again or maybe inject some thicken resin to it.

What are my options here?

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well we have had 2 days of rain ...enough to stop me and it looks like more rain today :mad:

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well no rain today so I worked on the boat a little.

Got a large syringe to pump some resin in between the skin and the void under it.
Drilled some holes in the skin and pumped resin in.
It looks like I'm going to need a bit more resin and thickner tomorrow. it looks like it will get the result I'm looking for.
Also applied some filler to the places needed on the console so it will be ready for sanding tomorrow.
Just 1 hour of work today lots more needed

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

This is some really good stuff that's easy to use. Buy extra nozzles.

http://www.boatbandit.com/west-syste...sive-8811.aspx

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I did see that today at west marine but calculating what I have used so far to what I need to finish I would need at least 5 or 6 tubes @ $20 each.

may be better to mix resin and thickener myself

But thanks

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Bought some supplies yesterday and got to work some.

I closed off the space on the console were the gauges go and added more cloth in the 2 areas that I think the VHF or stereo were and and something round next to it. Not as pretty now but I hope to have it cleaned up by tomorrow afternoon.

Next is fairing and getting ready for primer.
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/console2.jpg[/image]

Then I worked that area on the floor were I thing a track for sliding the cooler seat went that was damaged.....LOTS more work needed in that area

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Pics/floor.jpg[/image]

The area that has me pissed in the floor that's in front of the console. I did try to repair it ( see prior post) but I have a dip in the floor thoughout most of the repair. I have injected thicken resin in thru holes I drilled but I think it's will just bond the skin to the plywood under neath leaving me with a dip.

My idea may be to sand off the gelcoat and apply cloth and resin to build it up level with the rest of the floor.

I will be in the area that has non skid anyways.

But like always open for sugestions!!!!!

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Did a little bit more on the console. A little sanding and I think that one more coat of fairing will do it. I hope to have it primed and painted by the end of the week.

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...artwaydone.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Here's a link to my photobucket album with various pics of my boat and some others stuck in there

I want to have some with the boat done and me enjoying a adult beverage in it.

http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...roject%20Pics/

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Amen, Jorge

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Some Rain today and I thought I had a day off but it cleared up and I got in some work

Console is ready for primer it got rained on and I need to clean it up but done

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...onsoledone.jpg[/image]

Also got the 1st coat on the splashwell

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ell1stCoat.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Splash Well done and ready for primer .....does not look at all smooth in the pic but it is

Next is to go and buy the primer etc... for the weekend.
I plan to do the console and splash well in the yard if the day is nice. I was able to locate a guy in the Redlands area that rents his spray booth for $100/day the boat will be done there

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...splashwell.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Jorge,
The first coat of primer will show you any flaws or unevenness that you can't see now because of the color difference between the gelcoat and where you've sanded through to the underlying fiberglass. You will be surprised how much shows up. If you're planning to roll the primer, it will fill a lot of the pinholes in the fiberglass that are hard to see now. After the primer dries, you might want to go over the piece and mark any areas that need attention with a pencil and then take care of them before you do an overall sanding of the prime coat. This suggestion comes from one of my recent lessons learned.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

LOL I can hardly wait for more fairing and more sanding :D

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Yeah, seems like it never ends. I still have to go over my cockpit deck, liner, and top cap at least once more before I can do the last coat of primer.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Build fast go fishing?

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I could not wait to the weekend to start the paint process so here is the spashwell primed.

I did get some pinholes and some imperfections but not as bad as I thought.

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...wellprimed.jpg[/image]

Then the console... That one came out better but I will give it a better look at it tommorrow.

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...soleprimed.jpg[/image]


After looking at it a bit I had a thought to paint the whole boat and put a black stripe in the middle to make it look like a law enforcement boat.... that way no one will fish near me...but no :cool:

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Lookin good, Jorge. Make sure you get all the little details now. The gloss in the top coat will show up way more flaws than the primer.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Looks good. Try some piranha putty, or 3M glaze putty to fill in the last pinholes and places. Drys quick and fills easily.

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

You still looking for a motor - couple nice sounding ones on Scream & Fly that seem priced fair. These are mostly 20" which are usually hard to find. You just missed this one, would have been sweet:

I have a 80 hour Stage Two Monty 4.0 Liter V-8 motor for sale. Motor has a fingerported block and pistons, special Monty intake, Boyesen reeds, 150 lbs compression heads, and big bore carbs. Block has been ported by Gordon to similar specs as STV Keith's motors (search STV Keith's V-8 Dyno Sheets). The only difference is that my motor has big bore carbs for more high rpm power. The motor has a 20" midsection. The lower unit has a Bob's Big Foot Nosecone with low water pickups. The gearcase is pinned, has a new propshaft, propshaft bearing and seals, and is filled with Mercury Racing oil. The cowling was painted to match my boat and is in good shape. The motor was maintained and tuned by Tom Booth at Riverside Marine in North Little Rock Arkansas. All the electronics are in good working order (rev limiter is disconnected). To run, all this motor needs is a hot battery, a high volume electric fuel pump, and 93 octane fuel mixed with xd 50 oil. You will probably need to rejet motor because it is jetted fat because my boat was heavy (running weight usually between 3500-4500 lbs). To my knowledge, everything about this motor is in excellent condition. I also have the ability to ship this motor at discounted freight rates. Price is $4500.00 or best offer. You can call me at 870-830-3222 7am to 10pm CDT, pm me, or ask any questions on this forum. Thanks. Baker Fullerton.

:D :D

Kidding but a couple nice 200's, I was thinking of you

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I will be needing an engine but I've decided to concentrate my efforts to getting the boat ready for the motor.

I still have so much to do and $$buy$$ and even after that the trailer needs some attention.

Your motor sounds nice but may be a little more engine than what I'm looking for....and running premium gas...yikes

I did miss out on a nice Merc 200 that was in great shape with great compression that needed a lower unit and I could have had it for $500...slept on that one

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Scream & Fly is a great source for us fishing mota guys - they have no use for stock parts - LU and such. Saw some well priced stock motors and some nice drop on powerheads for example if you find a blown up one around that has a decent lower end. I'd keep checking over there.

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well the project continues.
bought the primer to get the console splash well and hatches primed in the next few days. Then on to the hull.
Only "problem" is that I bought a townhouse in the Keys and this is the 1st wekkend that it's ours, Soooooo I imagine that the weekend will be down there relaxing. It will give me soem inspiration to get the boat done sooner!!!!

Pictures to follow as I progress

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Just to let you know....now that you are the proud new owner of a place in the Keys....the non-ethanol 90 octane gas is $4.19 a gallon in Islamorada at Caloosa Cove Marina. Oh yeah that's at the pumps out front, add $.20 for the pump out back on the water. Congrats on the purchase!!!!

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well I spayed the hatches and console and splash well.

It came out better that I thought for the 1st time doing such a big job.

The floor hatches that cover the gas tank and is below the Console will be painted with non skid so I think it's not that important to have it perfect. Now the console has 2 areas that have pinholes showing and 1 area were you can see where I covered up the square hole where I plan to put guages electronics etc......

That part I know more fairing sanding is needed

But how do I tackle the pinholes? best/easiest method?

Pics in the morning

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Rain here in Miami so no sanding today :D

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/boa/2344834732.html

might be a good fit for your MA. (not mine just saw it and fig'd I' pass on)