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Scupper Help
Having lurked on this site for 5 years as I searched for my dream 23' CC, I finally found the right boat and cut a deal last fall. (1975 23' CC) Finally, after months of upgrades and work, I splashed the boat this afternoon for my first shake-down run. Needless to say, I was very excited. New engine (250 Etec),new electronics etc.
Everything went great but I am a little concerned about the position of the scuppers. (which, from what I gather, is fairly common with this era) At its slip without anyone in the stern, the (port and starboard) scuppers are just above the waterline. If you stand in the stern, however, they will dunk (slightly) For peice of mind, I would like to add in a flap-type scupper or a ping-pong ball scupper...but I'm hoping to get your opinions. I am having the boat pulled next week to look at something else so when its out, I'd like to address that as well. Please let me know what you suggest in terms of what I should use. I really appreciate your help. Best, RC |
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I have the same issue. I know a lot of people raise the floor but I'm not ready for that yet. I'd like to know what everyone else says about those other scuppers too.....
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here is a link to what I have on both my boats they work great.
http://www.seachoice.com/productdeta...tail-38619.asp |
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X2 thats what i have and they do work
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Thanks so much. Are those able to be mounted on the side as well? Are they flush when mounted? Looks like they may stick out but I may not be looking at it correctly. Thanks again
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plug em when your fishing and pull em when your running, make sure everyone in your crew understands what they r and what they do in case you take one over the transom. I had 1 76 cc with motor 2 stroke 200 on the notch . i had moved console up 5 inches and had an auxillary tank (40 gal) up front. I had very little problem with that set up. i now have a 76 cc with flotation bracket with 225 four stroke, stock console location with fuel tank as forward as possible, and a 25 gal fresh water tank forward and batteries under the console. This sits almost as well as my old one. Moving batteries helps also. Good luck you have an amzing boat and that power sounds sweet, how fast is she prob. @ 46??
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they do stick out because of the ping pong ball cover, when water pushes against them they stop the water from coming in like a check valve
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Had some similar to this on SeaVette:
http://www.shopping.com/T-H-Marine-D...n-Scupper/info This style may prove to work on the on the vertical thru hulls such as on the 20' hulls. Sort of a sturdier vortex. |
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I thought so. Thanks for clarifying. Are those type scuppers only meant for the transom or can you still use them on the side scuppers?
If they can't be used on the sides, how do the flap style scuppers work? Thanks for your help. |
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What was that one way scupper contraption that was posted on here a long time ago that helped the straight down scuppers on the old 20's? I think Father Frank came up with it if I'm remembering correctly? The "Vortex" or something, parts out of the home depot plumbing isle, looks like something out of a garbage disposal.
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Here it is. Fellow-ship was the one who came up with it.
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I did see that in my search but wasn't sure it would work with horizontal scuppers. Having a tough time visualizing it but willing to try if it would work with my set up.
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I'd go with the ping pong ball type check valves, as I think they are less susceptible from defeat from debris. I've heard stories of the duckbill type leaking because trapped debris kept them from sealing completely. However if you're leaving the boat in the water, you aren't too far from a "mode shift" from self-bailing to self-sinking! :eek: I'd look at moving batteries, etc. to get some weight forward to get a little more self bailing margin!
I use the "vortex" type check valves, and I believe they work best in the vertical scuppers because it depends on the water pressure in the tube to collapse the glove finger. I use them when diving or fishing when I'm gonna have water on the deck anyway, because they allow it to drain off automatically. (Note: haven't tried the condom option, but I make them using Nitril gloves instead of vinyl or latex, as that material seems to be more durable!) However they don't seal perfectly. My waterline is about like yours, and if you're sitting or standing in the back of the boat, water will slowly seep in. When I'm cruising and want a dry deck, I use the rubber plugs and would use those and depend on bilge pump and a good battery if I left boat in water for a long period of time. By the way, how do you like that E-Tec? |
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If I am understanding its design correctly, the ping-pong ball solution is meant for scuppers that exit the transom. Unfortunately, my scuppers are on the starboard and port sides near the stern. Doesn't seem like I could use that style given that they stick out several inches and would distrup the flow of water fairly dramatically.
I'm figuring out slowly that my only real option here (short of a major deck change or running the scuppers out the transom) is to add the flap style scuppers, adjust some of the weight within the console etc and potentially use plugs when we are fishing in the stern. I do have a 60 gallon reserve tank positioned in front of the console that is empty right now. I may fill that to adjust weight and see how that affects the scuppers/waterline. I'll report back. Thanks for everyone's help and input. RC PS: My first day on the water with the new engine was yesterday. Wind was honking and the waves were up so I didn't get a true test of the engine. That said, for the short time I was out, it was great. |
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I'm pretty sure the old SeeVee's or Whitewater's had that out the sides. Search Hull Truth for those.
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Check out rwbmarine.com.au. They're out of Australia but make an aluminum scupper that you can open and close from the inside with a heavy duty spring. Amazing product made for military vessels. They can direct you to a Newport, RI company that imports their stuff. I have them on the hiliner 222 that I restored. 100% waterproof/bulletproof.
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Blackfin,
Thanks for the lead. I have been in contact with the actual company in Australia...and they did put me in touch with the RI company (Naid Inflatables). I still have yet to connect with the gentleman there but hopefully he can point me in the right direction. (The gentleman from RWB sent me a page from their catalog but nothing on the page seems to match what you described.) One question....when you say that the aluminum scuppers have a heavy duty spring...are they manually operable to shut off/on? Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated. RC |
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RC...not actually a spring more like heavy gauge wire that springs out when you push the scupper door. It then forcefully collapses when pulled shut. 100% waterproof and military spec. Send me your email and send you a few pics.
Niad is the company I dealt with...forget the sales guys name. Very nice people. They simply added my order to one of there's. Steve |
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Blackfin,
PM sent. Thanks! RC |
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Hi JacquesStrappe
I am the guy that started The Vortex crave and they do work very well. I used them for approx 3 years. My boat has been my toy project now for 10 years. I just cant seem to keep good enough alone for very long. I keep wanting to improve and improve what I did so I moved on to the through the transom approach that you see on the third page of that thread. The Vortex is a quick and simple device that fixes the problem thats for sure But if you got any of me in you good is the enemy of the best. FellowShip . Just for the Grins :D Official 23 SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
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Fellow-Ship,
Thanks for chiming in. I've read your post several times and still can't visualize how the vortex works. My first question is, can it be applied to a scupper system that drains out the sides of the boat. Secondly, does it allow for water to leave the deck or is it meant only to stop the flow of water (in or out). Thanks for your help. RC |
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The Vortex is for the older SeaCrafts that drain the water 90 degree down through the bottom of the deck. It would never work for through the side or our the stern of boats.
If you want to drain water through the port and starboard sides of the boat you will have some problems. First off SeaCrafts have in inner liner and then the hull. There is not enough room between the two to make anything water tight. You would have to remove the inner liner to secure a flap type scupper facing to the stern for a side mount scupper. Then there is the problem of the inner liner allowing water to seep down into the bilge. I do not like side scuppers on SeaCrafts. I would go out the stern through the transom like most traditional scuppers now a days. I like the flap type as are on my boat currently. It requires some work and of course $$ but if you are like me what ever I spend on the boat is money well spent. http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...516_2738_n.jpg FellowShip . Just for the Grins :D Official 23 SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
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Agree with Fellowship
1.) Close off the floor drains 2.) Exit thru the transom 3.) Use the Gemlux thru-hull with changable flapper _http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...scupper3-1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../scupper-1.jpg |
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Thanks guys. Really appreciate your input.
You both probably did the work yourselves, but, do you have any idea what it might cost to run the scupper drains out transom...and reglass the existing holes? Ballpark? I will probably tackle it after this season but was curious how big a job it would be. Thanks again for your help. RC |
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Are those below the water line? If so do the flappers keep most of the water out?
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You will need two of these
http://www.jmsonline.net/scupper-valve-1-1-2-ss.htm On my boat I put two of these on the inside approx $10.00 each. http://jamestowndistributors.com/use...arge/12153.jpg Then some flexible hose and 4 or 8 clamps. FellowShip . Just for the Grins :D Official 23 SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
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Groco now has the correct flange adapters to do this the right way....bronze thru-hull, flange adapter, ball valve, hose, deck drain.
http://www.groco.net/ |
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