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1976 23' hell on reels
just picked it up in florida last week and made the long road trip back to cape with it.The hull is in great shape and will only need minor interior work. I plan on taking the tower off and replacing it with a pilot house. its got a 350 marine power fuel injected vortec engine with 140hrs on it. http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0434.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0435.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0436.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0437.jpg
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Welcome home...Looks like the Cape has some serious Seacraft artifacts! Very nice ride and looks in great shape...if you fish tuna keep that custom tower!!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Congrats Mike!
Glad to see that you found one. And in good shape too! Cheers, Bob |
Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
looks f'n sweet man.good score..will spot you right out the fleet no problem!!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
sweet setup i saw your little boat going down west main st the other day
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
That one must have slipped through the cracks to end up North!! :D Congrats and good luck!! If it were me I would keep the fold down tower and have Eisenglass curtains made for her, just my 2¢'s worth See ya, Ken |
Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
clean clean clean :D Congrats. Cant wait to see what you do for a pilot house on the Large Console.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Very Nice !!!
PS: Keep the tower, as nobones said, just add eisenglass. I bet that tower cost 25K plus :eek: |
Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
when you called me the other day, I didn't realize how nice the tower was. I was with you on the pilot house... until the tower. Personally I would give it a shot, if it pitches too much in the chop then I would consider pulling it off. Somewhere I have a number for a good canvas guy off cape that could make a canvas house cheeper than most of the guys around here.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
thanks for the compliments guys. I like the tower but for the kinda fishing i do it just doesnt work for me.(one man show) I do alot of tuna fishing in the fall and were i need to put a rod holder is right were the rear tower legs are. Codfeesh we will both stick out like soar thumbs this year.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
That looks like the perfect boat!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
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Bring the tower back to Florida!! I'll take-it.. :D See ya, Ken |
Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
i love that tower id love to have one someday for my scepter
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
just posted the tower in the for sale section. If anyone is interested in buying it please let me know. I dont have any room to store it so its gotta go.nobones if your really interested let me know we mite be able to work something out.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Looks great, I agree for off shore fishing it won't work, a friend had a 1974 I/O, HEATHER K in VA and put one on his, was never great off shore in any chop, I have never had a problem with hights or geting sea sick, but did not enjoy unless slick!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
got a liltle work done on it yesterday. made the front seat and rear foot rest so the engine is all covered up. hopefully I'll get most of the glass work done today so i can have it done for those rough bass fishing days that will be coming. http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0461.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0460.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0459.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0458.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0457.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0456.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0455.jpg
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Great looking boat! What are you doing with the tower?
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
I sold the tower a few days ago.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Perfect setup, looks awesome, keep the photos coming!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
well I've been busy and hard at work to get this thing done guys.The only thing left for now is a new shaft seal setup and it's tuna time. http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0472.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0463.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0466.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0467.jpg http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...y/IMG_0465.jpg
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Super nice!!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Looking good!!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
that's coming along real nice! How do you access the electronics? from under house? are you going to put any vents or access doors in the console?
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
came out great!
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Your going to loose SO many fish tangling the lines on that swim platform.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Looks very nice. Just curious (and I'm sure you've thought of this), won't the extended port side of the doghouse create a blind spot for you? Also does it hinder movement from the helm?
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
I have seen a few other guys with the same setup, notice the controls on the 'open' side of the console. When your fishing alone, having the rod right beside you on the rail is the best place for it. Having even a small wall to stand beside when its cold, windy, spray etc is even BETTER! I also know he fishes alone most of the time.
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
I can simply just tilt/hinge the house forward to access all the wiring and electronics/engine. The left side does kinda creat a blind spot but its not that bad, I can simply just look around it.
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well its that time of year again for another project. last week I got some motivation and started to work on the boat again. I'm going to replace the deck and re-core the cap this time around and spray the whole inside and cap with gel coat. I'm keeping the deck looking like factory minus the stripes and re-coring the hatches. so just out of curiosity when you guys replace your decks do you wrap all the edges of the plywood with glass before setting it down or do you seal them with epoxy or just leave them be? any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks Brian
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Brian, I can't answer your questions but please document your work well as I to am going to have to undertake the same project in a year or two and I am scared just thinking about it.
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I puddied up my decks edges with cabosil and then stuck em down. Some guys just use Resin and hot coat them, along with the bottom of the deck too.
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penske board - do it once,never do it again - no problems with rotting ... gel coat - that's alot of work - prep,spraying,wet sanding and buffing...spray it with awlgrip - save yourself the amount of work... |
let me add this:
working with plywood: it's real important to seal the wood from any water migration - epoxy is the clear choice for this...and yes,you want to completley seal the edges of any and all plywood - it wicks moisture via the end grain...epoxy is a better choice for working with wood,due to the fact it's water proof - polyester resins are pourous,not the best choice for working with wood. the underside of the wood - you need to seal this as well... spraying with gel coat: gel coat requires a few steps - surface prep,spraying - 2 types of gel coat - "laminating gel" - this will not fully kick,unless sealed from the atmosphere with PVA.and there's "air dry gel" this has a wax in it that rises as the gel kicks - no need for PVA - the gel needs to be sprayed on to the needed thickness - gel shrinks...after the spraying,wet sanding and compounding is required... in the case of decks - the gel is rolled out... depending on what you want - a nice clean job,or a "utilitarian" job - that meaning,you're not really concerned with beauty - gel coat may or may not be your best choice... finish coating with awlgrip is gonna give you a nice clean finish,that lasts,awlgrip on the deck is clean and easy to keep that way.refinishing with paint,you need the prep,a good 2 part primer and then spray it - job over... rolling out the non skid areas... seriously - check out composites,before you start this job - composites are pretty easy to work with,light weight and strong as well...cost is less than you think - 1/2" penske board 4'x8',costs around $150... |
1/2in Penske is way more than $150 around here.
Brian just get Bobby to shoot it, you can use my 'new' shop if you want. You could even get all the prep work at your house. I wont need it for all the winter, and my boat wont fit in his shop anymore. |
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update
well guys Ive been hard at work over the last couple of months, Ive managed to get the new deck in,2 of the hatches re-cored and the whole cap re-cored and while i was doing everything else i decided to pull the engine and repaint in the bilge as well. cant have a nice boat with a dirty bilge ya know.I first had made a template of the deck out of cheap wood and glued it all together. I then did all the demo work and grinding and fit the new plywood into place. once i had the new deck all cut to shape i started to glass the underside of the plywood with chop strand.then i removed the in floor scuppers (pain in the butt that was) i had to cut out the back part of the liner to be able to remove the 12'' x 3.5 '' solid soaking wet block that the scupper went through. i also had added a 3'' PVC pipe for the chase wires with 45deg elbows at each end. After i glued and screwed the new deck into place i did 2 layers of 1808 mat and tabbed all the edges with 2 layers of 1808 as well.then came all the fun of sanding all of the body work that needed to be done. After i got all the body work done on the deck i started on the cap, i removed all of the old core and replaced it with 3/4'' and 1/2'' plywood with 2 layers of chop under the wood (sandwiched) and a layer of 1808 on top of it to keep it covered. Once i got done with that i flipped it over and started to grind and glass all the existing holes from rod holder and whatever else was on there.I also had molded in the old rear live well for storage.
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transom with tuna door
well i have finally decided to do my transom and put a tuna door in and good thing i did because it was all soaking wet and rotten.i used 2 sheets of 3/4'' plywood and in the first layer i used cabosil to sandwich it to the outer skin and clamped it from both sides to squeeze it all tight.after that had dried i used chop strand to sandwich in between the two layers of plywood and then used stainless deck screws to hold it all together. once all that was cured i put a layer of 1708 on the inside and tabbed both corners with 2 more layers of 1708. after all that was cured i could figure out how big of a door i could fit without inter fearing with my steering and my trim tabs.i was able to fit a 28''x25'' door, pretty happy with that, once i cut the door out i was able to make the side braces and the ramp/floor extension to box everything into place and glassed them in using 1708. after i got some body work done i rolled three coats of gel coat on. next will be to finish the body work on the cap and get it glassed back in. all in all its solid and not going anywhere.
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