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Wiring question
I am installing new gauges and in the past my grounds and lights etc. were daisy chained from post to post to simplify things. My new gauges don't have posts, so how do you daisy chain things together correctly?
Thanks as always! |
Re: Wiring question
If you don't have posts then you will have to use a busbar. They make protective covers for Positive busbars. That is how I would do it. I dont care for wire nuts in a boat.
strick |
Re: Wiring question
A fused busbar is the only way to go IMHO. A little more wire in the bundle, but much easier to isolate and troubleshoot should the need arise. I found that fuses on the console next to the switch tend to corrode a lot faster than protected fuses. Make sure you keep a dry record somewhere of which terminal feeds which unit. I also "bus- barred" all my ground leads individually. One open ground on a daisy chain and lots of stuff quits working! Remember, anywhere two pieces of wire come together open to the air is a corrosion site waiting to happen. A well protected busbar coated lightly with a good corrosion preventative can help eliminate a lot of that. Just MHO http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/IMG_1340.jpg
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the screws - holding connectors to either the ground buss,or the fuse box - it's a good practice to get into,coat the threaded area in liquid electric tape,then install the screw - this will prevent the screws from vibrating loose - a common failure point. those "main" power and ground wires - these should be secured,not free to flap around - if left in their current state - the connectors will fail,due to the wires swinging around... wire ? what's that wire ? |
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Pelican,
Man - sorry for posting the picture - I guess I won't ever do that again! That coil of wire is spare fused connections for anything I might add in the future. The end of each wire in the coil is sealed. It keeps me from having to access the busbars to add equipment to spare fused terminals. Each connection on both busbars is a crimped, heat-shrunk terminal that has a sealant inside it. When heat is applied, the covering shrinks, melts the sealant and seals the entire connection. The covers are off both busbars for the picture. All terminals are coated with a milspec anti-corrosion film. The main power and ground leads are secured to the shelf (see the clip in the picture) and under the shelf all the way to the battery switch. The mounting board was encased in glass and then glassed to the inside of the console. I apologize for not making all this clear in the first posting. |
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Shooot....looks good to me!!! At least you can see, take pictures of yours. Mine is just visible and a royal pain to get too. I did go the same direction as you did with a glassed in mounting board. 3/4" thick plywood works well with 3/4" screws.......no holes through the console. I guess the bottom line with all the care we take to waterproof everything.....it's still saltwater and saltwater is in love with electrical connections.
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I hate to be a piss ant, but for the sake of a possible group lesson, Where are the drip loops?
I'm probably wrong here, but ...? Just my 2 cents. |
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Like I said - I'm sorry I posted the picture - it won't happen again I can promise you. For the sake of a group lesson, and in a boat that runs 6 days a week but is apparently wired wrong, I'm outta here...
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It looks better then any of the many boats I have had. Better then my Seacraft factory wireing does after a quarter century of service.
I hope my new wireing looks that good when I am done. I also hope that this kindly site won't become like that shooting galery Bloody Decks. |
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As I understand it the gauges have no posts just wire pigtails coming out from them? Common solution is to butt connect them. ;)
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My, it's a testy group out there today!!! Mus b d heat!!!
Aneway, my two cents, and I am sure a ABYC electrician may chime in. My concern would be the supply wire size on both the positive and the grounds. Since the load wires appear to be the same gauge or maybe a gauge smaller if you add up the load amperage those are capable of, I am pretty sure the supply wires cannot carry the total load effectively if everything was turned on at the same time. Everyone has there own personal preference on where things should be mounted. But from personnal experience, when a fuse blows on me, it is ususlly at night, then I am digging in a console, which has been stacked with everyhting I need to stay alive and is quite dark. I have used fuses, mounted next to my switches (made by Vector LED), (I coat the fuses in a dielectric grease) and that seems to have worked on my projects for years. But, like I say, different things work for different folks. The common ground is for us all to help each other, do what we can, with the tools and supplies we have, with what we want to spend. |
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Yo Ron, Do not take this bad!!
I get beat up all the time here and these guys are my friends!! Come on down to a Rotary meeting with me some time. You have to have Rhino skin to put up with that group!! Hate to see you bail out, always enjoyed your posts.. See ya, Ken |
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I worry when my friends stop picking on me.
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one did - ;) |
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The wires are probably 16 - 18 ga.? You can strip the sheathing and twist them and two will fit in a blue butt conn. Use the adhesive walled heat shrink type. You can also get butts that step down in size. I get them from Lewis Marine Supply but I am sure they are available elsewhere.
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Hermco that is what I needed. There's just not enough of these on my skiff to justify a buss bar. I will post pics for future heckling.
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lets all get together and help each other life is short boys lets hear the love george
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strick |
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Hey guys. I think he's outta here for good. His username has changed to "anonymous" unregistered. What a shame. :(
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