Wiring
 

Anyone have any pictures or suggestions on cleaning up wiring so it looks nice... All the wiring is new but it's sloppy looking hanging under the console and some of it's hanging under the gunnels runnin to the bow light... Any adhesives or braces? Suggestions or pics of your boats please! Will post pics of mine when possible

Wiring
 

I just completed mine. Maybe not as nice as some but much better than before!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1/DSC_0775.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1/DSC_0774.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1/DSC_0776.jpg

looks better then mine! lol anyone else have any pics or suggestions on cleaning up wiring and making it look good

Its a long slow process, lots of zip tying and then cutting em off again. Do your self a favor, tear all the old stuff out and start over. Check out www.http://genuinedealz.com/ for spools of wire, and battery cables.
I paid a buddy to do mine, it took almost 20 hrs to do the entire boat.

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/PA180129.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/PA020117.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/PA180126.jpg

that looks clean like i want mine...all the wires and stuff is all new i dont have to rip any of that out thank god i just want it all to look clean like that...right now its just coiled up zip tied and pushed under the console...except for like the perko switch and a couple other things are mounted...just looking for ways to clean the wires up and make it look nice and neat

reel escape and wildman are you guys running battery islolators? my yami 225 four stoke is putting out 16 plus volts and i am trying to figure out what is up?

I am running an ACR isolator/combiner. It (supposedly) auto switches. They're also sold together. http://bluesea.com/products/7650

I also have the same ACR as mentioned above, plus I have the same Guest onboard charger for my two main batteries that Reelescape has. My problem which happened this past weekend is the guage only was reading 12 volts....we know what that means!! Soooo, I just ordered a new alternator for my engine, should be here in a day or two. Anyway assuming your batteries have been tested and are good, the 16 volt reading as mentioned might be the voltage regulator. In most cases the alternator and regulator are in the same housing. My two cents worth....take your time looking for a new alternator, in my case they ran from $500+ down to $96. I was going to go back with a Delco just like what I had and pay the extra $75 until I took it off and saw it was made in Korea.....now all l I care about is the best deal. I'm a poor bastard.

The quickest and easiest way would be to to remove any "excess bundled up and zip tied" wiring, BUT ONLY after you have tied back and anchored the wire as you want it up to the final/terminating connection. Then be sure you create a "drip loop" so that any built up condensation in the future drips off the wire and not into the terminating connection/solder joint.

Ditto

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...10513-1650.jpg

this is my rig:

it was completley rewired,by me,approx 10yrs ago
i'm running 3 batteries - charged via an alternator isolator
1 battery is dedicated to the engine,another is dedicated to the 12v system and the last battery is a dedicated spare - all are on selector switches - the boat has 3 bilge pumps - all on a seperate power source - boat's also equipped with a high bilge water alarm.
the 12v system is breaker protected - all wiring is ancor marine grade "tinned" wiring - all connections are heat shrink sealed

battery switches are run in the #1 position

auto switches - for bilge pumps are "fed" power from behind the switches - only connections at the batteries,are cables only - this is how your electrical system should be - i use either lock nuts,or nuts and lock washers on the battery terminals...

the alternator isolator - it's used on either inboards or stern drives - the output wire from the alternator is removed from the starter - a replacement wire is ran,through an ancor "maxi fuse",then that wire is ran to the console,to the isolator - the isolator allows all 3 batteries to recharge,and remain electrically seperated,from each other...this is a "bulletproof" system...

that breaker panel,it's mounted on the bulkhead - aft,in the console - all the wiring runs through "rigging tubes"

1/0 ancor cables feed power and ground to the engine,there's a seperate ground cable,running to the engine,for the 12v system battery,all 3 batteries are "jumped" ground cable as well - via 1/0 ancor cable - it's a little "overkill",but,i'm a big fan of over kill...


questions ?
one of the best products out for holding harness's up,is made by ancor - it's got a hole in the center for a screw- and it's cut,on both sides - this allows a zip tie to be slid through it.those cheap adhesive pieces will not hold up





the pictures will not come through....
i will take repalcement pictures when i get to the shop today - sorry guys...

WILDMAN,
What's that black box to the right in the first two pictures attached to your post?

better late,than never...
 

here's a few pictures:

these are the pictures inside the console on my rig

please excuse the dirt and dust - the boat's inside my shop - it's been collecting dust since may - last trip it made was in febuary...a few things have been pulled - the batteries - except for one - needed to get a few "numbers" from my gps for a wreck trip we made...

there's more
 

those were the console,and to give you an idea where this wiring is located...

this is the wiring itself...

the rest...

thanks for all the help guys going to clean mine up sometime this week

If you look close at the later (in the build) pictures it has a couple labels on it. It is just a universal black plastic box with big breakers for the auto bilge pumps and a 3rd for the power wire going to the Ttop. I need to make a diagram to explain it a little better because you are the 4th guy to ask me about it.

Is it just me, or does anyone else get nervous seeing an exposed positive main terminal? Or better yet, an unfused exposed positive terminal? I know it's highly unlikely, but that can be a lot of juice if inadvertently grounded. I really do like fireworks, but not in my boat.