Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196501)

Hello all,

I recently acquired a 1978 SeaCraft Master Angler 20. I'm excited to get it back on the water. The boat has been sitting out in the weather for about ten years, so its in kinda rough shape. I plan to do a modest restoration including fixing the decks where the core is rotten and soft, topside paint, and re-power. I have a rigging and boat shop so I'm doing all the work myself, except for the outboard.

When I got the boat,

it had a 1985 Evinrude 235hp outboard??????? on it. You think the transom is in good shape after this was hanging on it?


It was supposedly re-built some time back and in OK shape. Well, turns out it was shot it had been overheated and is basically scrap. I'm going to put a re-built Mariner 175 on it instead, being built at a local shop.

The boat currently has a 20" transom. The motor can be built with either 20" or 25" transom height, its my call I just have to let the mechanic know. The transom is actually in very good shape, with no rot or soft spots at all, so it doesn't need repair. But since the boat needs a bunch of other fiberglass work I'm thinking about raising the transom up to get the powerhead further away from the water.

{{{{{{{{The waterline on the boat has been raised I think as a result of the weight of the large outboard. It also has splash plates and some other devices to keep from being swamped. }}}}}}}}}}}
{{{ Obviously it sat stern down and had problems getting swamped.}}}}} }}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}


Does anyone have a recommendation as to whether the 20" stern height is too low? I've searched around the forum a bit and haven't found exactly the answer I'm looking for.

I'm spending a bunch of time and money to get the boat in good shape. Its a great boat and from everything I've read here I think I'll be really happy with it. I don't want to go through all this work only to find out I really should have raised the transom when I had the chance.

Whats the advice?

Originally Posted by bly (Post 196506)

My recommendation would be that if you want a safe boat to go to a 25 in transom. If you use the original transom. Test it before you put the boat in the water. While the boat is on the trailer tilt the motor about a 1/3 to 1/2 up and stand on cav plate area with out breaking your leg or head. Bounce a little and have someone else watch the transom around the motor mount. If No flexing then the transom is OK. On a 78 original transom I doubt it. Especially after having a 235 HP on it. It is getting hard to find 20 inch motors new that are not clamp on low HP.

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196512)

The reason would be to give the boat better sea keeping abilities.

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196512)

I do a lot of work on boats and yes the transom is structurally sound. It was a bit of a surprise what good shape it is in, but also created this problem... If the transom needed replacement it would be a no brainer to raise it to 25", but since it doesn't need any repair, I don't know about cutting into a good part to change things around. The reason would be to give the boat better sea keeping abilities.

Originally Posted by bly (Post 196517)

What about a Jack plate type permanent aluminum 4 or 6 inch set back . So that you can raise the transom to 25 inches with out doing it structurally. . Or a full splash well with the 20 inch transom.

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196539)

I checked into the jack plate idea and I am not convinced it accomplishes what I want to do. It would get the powerhead out of the water further, which is good, but it does nothing for the actual transom height and keeping out water, I would still have to install some sort of splash guard for this purpose.

I talked with one of my tech's this morning and we have a plan to raise the transom. Shouldn't be too much work and my feeling from the input here is that if I don't I'll wish I had.

Thanks for all the prompt feedback on this! I'll be sure to take some pics of the process and post here when the boat is complete!

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196545)

The Mariner is a 1989.

Our plan is to build a rectangular section of plywood cored glass that matches the existing transoms construction, and is the size necessary to fill the transom area and raise it 5". We will glue that in place with Pro-Set epoxy. We'll then bevel back the surrounding outside skin of the transom about 6" and tab the part in. We'll also bevel back the inside of the transom all the way to the bottom of the well and along the sides of the well and tab the part into that structure also.

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron (Post 196546)

That sounds like a good approach. As long as your bevel is at least a 12:1 ratio to your laminate thickness, and 6" should be plenty, your seam should be very strong. I would use epoxy resin for the tabbing for its superior secondary bond, but some guys here might consider that overkill.

Dave

Originally Posted by GodsReel (Post 196585)

what kind of race program? kitesurfing? just wondering because that's what i do when it get's to rough for my seacraft.

Originally Posted by SteveH (Post 196588)

The 1978 master anger that my father and I had for about twenty years had a 25" transom. Definitely, the way to go. we never had an issue with water instrusion. We had a 175 merc, black max, on it. It was a perfect match for the boat in my opinion.

Originally Posted by eggsuckindog (Post 196598)

Frankly with all the other stuff and a good transom I would leave that until later. I have a MA with a 20" transom and a 200 merc @ 410lbs. My PO has put 2 5" starboard splash guards either side of the engine and I have only once gotten water over the transom. I also have a factory door that mounts across the splashwell to keep any water in the splashwell as it has 2 1" drains back there - that was the original design. If you look you will see the 1" recess built into the the front of the splashwell that you could easily build a 2 piece hinged door - frankly I have put mine on twice and wished I hadn't bothered.

The original SeaCrafts were offshore boats but with 20" transoms a door across the splashwell was always there - my 18 had one and even the 23 with the large splashwell still had a hinged door. If a wave comes in it goes right back out the scuppers and never enters the cockpit, the 18 fishing West Palm with 3 guys the system worked just fine when getting fish on board with everybody near the stern you'd get waves back there. Those spalsh guards do work well I must say, the boat was used on the east coast but they work great grouper fishing in the gulf too - never put the door on.

Note- There is a bilge access panel back there that MUST be sealed well - only place water can get into the bilge and the cause of most sinkings.

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 196586)

Sailboat racing program. We manage a 65' racer/cruiser, a Melges 24, and our own F18 catamaran. And possibly soon an Open 50 canting keel race boat. There are plenty of times that we are on the water when its not very comfortable for anyone in a small powerboat! Also we will run Race Committee from the boat including setting and retrieving race marks.

Must sound like sacrilege to all the fishermen on this forum! I hope I am not banished!:)

Originally Posted by Chaser (Post 203484)

Chaser on the beach near our home in Anacortes.