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Tracker 20 Restore
Not a potter - but the price was right and she's in decent shape. 25" transom seems very solid too. 2yr old Awlgripped fighting lady yellow hull and white inside. This will be my second seacraft restore. My father and I finished a full restore of an 84 23 in august of 2011.
This presidents day weekend was the official start of my 20 seacraft restore. I got in a couple of good days of work. Being back in the shop with a grinder in my hand brings back some memories that im not terribly fond of. My whole point in buying this boat is that it would be a quick flip, ready to go in no time and shopping for an engine sooner rather than later. The pics will tell a different story. To start - here she is day 1. Notice that the hullside paint is in very useable condition. I'm not terribly thrilled about the bottom paint, but i'm not going to be painting this boat. At least not the outside. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...4/100_0194.JPG And the inside - again youll notice the paint on the inside is also very useable as is. The question is, how much will i destroy it will working on it? If i can skate through without too much mess, i won't be painting the inside either. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...4/100_0196.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...4/100_0197.JPG And the mayhem begins............ Leaning Post Out - https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z...4/100_0200.JPG Console Out - i basically just cut all the wiring, because i'm not re-using any of it. So, it was as simple as removing a few screws and breaking the seal from the console to the deck. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...4/100_0206.JPG Fuel tank hatch opened up. Revealed the original tank, made in november 1988.....70 gallon capacity. .125 thickness and was coated with some kind of epoxy paint. Orginal fuel lines and clamps as well. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...4/100_0208.JPG Fuel tank out of the boat (you can see it in the background on saw horses - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...4/100_0210.JPG The fuel tank was sitting on a piece of 3/4" UNGLASSED plywood. It was wet and heavy so i went ahead and cut it out and started cleaning out the bilge. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...4/100_0213.JPG Now here is where things take a turn for the worse...............Before buying the boat, i knew i had a squishy place in the deck in the starboard side rear corner of the boat. My plan was to just cut that section, repair it, and leave the rest of the deck alone. Opened it up - only to find wet wood, which is what i expected https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...4/100_0220.JPG I kept working forward, continuing to find wet wood. I cut 1/4" in, removed the top skin of glass, dig out the wood with a chisel, leaving the bottom skin in tact. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9...4/100_0218.JPG Unfortunately - curiousity killed the cat and i had to open the other side.......only to find wet wood again. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...4/100_0221.JPG I spent the next several hours with a hammer and chisel. I removed all the old wet wood from both sides, leaving the bottom skin in tact. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...4/100_0225.JPG At this point, i have already spec'd out a new tank and will order this week. I am going to cut the capacity back to 50 gallons leaving me with a tank about 26 inches shorter. I will move it all the way forward to help counter balance the weight of a new, 400+ pound engine. Although not really the preferred method of deck repair, for my purposes this will do. I am going to re-core the tank hatch. Jury is still out on the in-deck livewell. Not sure whether it will stay or go. We do alot of flounder fishing and it's nice to have a small baitwell for live minnows. The original fuel tank was built in november 1988. At almost 24 years old it was in surprisingly good shape. There was pitting on one end and a few small spots on the bottom. No holes in it at all, but the pitting is just enough to make it not worth risking re-using it. -Mike |
I had the same look when I opened up my floor
1 soft spot turned into 3 of them and it looked like yours If I would have know I would have done the whole floor later investigation turned up only one side was bad But it's done and i plan on priming the inside today and paint later in the week |
Mike...looks great so far..I am going to have to go that route as well..
Cant wait to see how it turns out..your 23 turned out beautiful! Questions -Were you able to lift out console by yourself or did you use a machine etc. -Also- looks like fuel tank popped out without having to cut deck flange...also were you able to lift out yourself? -what procedure are you going to use to replace the original fuel fill hose...will you cut opening for pie plate cover etc etc???. Thanks so much -Fred |
Hey Fred -
That console is a back breaker. My dad and I were able to lift it out but not easily. It's big, bulky, and heavy. I could get it out by myself if i didnt want to save it. Just tip it on its side and flip it over out of the boat. If you are trying to save it, no way you are getting it out alone. I had to trim the flange just a little to get the tank out. I took maybe an 1/8" off one side and it came right out. The tank is 92 inches long and although not heavy, you need 2 people to handle it. For the fuel fill hose, i don't see any way except to cut an access hole. I might try to do a 4" pie plate to make it as small as possible, but yea a cut will need to be made there. -Mike |
Is there a reason that what look like about 6"X6" blocks of wood are used as a core instead of a solid piece of wood,I would think a solid piece would be much stronger.I have seen the blocks used many times and wondered if there is an advantage to it?
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Yesterday was a fine day for glasswork. I drove down to the shop and got the heat pumping in there. I decided to go with polyester resin on this restore. Polyester is a little more finicky than epoxy. It only has a 3-4 month shelf life. Mixing a quart of resin only requires a few drops of hardener to start the reaction process. The epoxy we used on the 23 was a 1 to 1 mixture so this was a bit of a change. Likewise - when the temperature is over 55 degrees, you have very little working time with polyester resin. By that i mean just a couple of minutes before it starts to tack up. Also - if you are only doing 1 layer, you need to add in a parafin wax or the surface will remain tacky. If you don't add in wax, then you can add additional layers without sanding. In any case, the polyester stuff was all a little new too me.
I bought my material from here. Heck of a nice guy to deal with and you can pickup your order if you're local. http://www.fiberglasssite.com Here's a tip if you ever do a floor the way i'm doing this one. Go to harbor freight and spend $15 and pick up one of these : https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q...0/100_0232.JPG I chiseled out the wood in the boat by hand the old fashioned way, with a hammer and chisel. I had enough of hitting myself in the hand with the hammer so after some research i came up with the air chisel. I still had to remove the wood from the top skins i cut up out of the boat and it worked like a dream. Quick and easy : https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/100_0231.JPG I decided to use a regular exterior grade plywood on this deck. The original plywood was only 1/2", 4 layers, and had plenty of voids in it, so i do not think it was a marine plywood. It lasted a long time and was not taken care of, so i think this should work perfectly fine. Polyester resin doesn't like cold temps so i first started by heating up the inside of the boat. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...0/100_0233.JPG I cut some cloth and layed it up on any holes through the bottom skin. The screws used to hold down the console were pretty long and went through the bottom skin. I patched the holes before laying down the plywood. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3...0/100_0236.JPG I taped everything off because im trying to avoid hours and hours of sanding spilled resin : https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/100_0235.JPG I mixed up some resin and thickened it with cabosil to a peanut butter consistency. Spread it on my bottom skin then laid in my new plywood. I cut solid pieces of wood instead of the 5x5 squares that came out. I hope this will tighten up the floor and make it stronger. Weighed it all down and let it set up : https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...0/100_0234.JPG Other side done as well (buckets filled with water) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...0/100_0237.JPG With the extra thickened resin, i went around the edges and seams and made a nice fillet to seal it all up https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...0/100_0238.JPG I left everything to set up and took my old fuel tank to the fabricator to have a new one built. I'm looking at about 3 weeks to get the new tank. In the meantime i hope to get some bulkheads in and slats for the tank to sit on. I need to order new fuel lines and hopefully by the first of april i can re-install the tank. My next trip home i will glue the topskins back down to my new plywood, grind out the seam and then seal it up with some 2 - 3" wide cloth and resin. One thing to note - all of this was so much easier the second time around. It almost feels natural and not even a big deal. I remember the first boat everything was so much slower because we stopped at every increment to think things through. If i didn't have to drive 100 miles to work on this boat, i would have it done and ready for power within 2 months. Oh well - til next time................ -Mike |
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In cored laminates, the core doesn't need bending strength, it acts to resist shear (sliding) force. The early Potter hulls had end grain balsa cores in the deck and it has almost no bending strength. The most important factor is the bond between the core and the laminates on both sides. It's easier to get a 100% bond with small tiles of plywood in a wet layup than it is with large sheets. Dave |
Thankyou for the information on the core materials Blue Heron.
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I got in another good day of glasswork on the 20 yesterday.
I pulled off the weight to reveal the new, dry plywood. It seems like i got a pretty good bond and i could walk up and down each side without any flexing. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...0/IMG_0150.JPG My previous trip home, i had already cleaned up the top skins, so i went ahead and glued them down. We had it roasting in the shop so i did one side at a time because we were short on cinder blocks. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...0/IMG_0157.JPG While that side was setting up, my next order of business was the fuel tank hatch. This thing weighed a ton. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...0/IMG_0149.JPG I set the depth of a skill saw to 1/2" and ran down the hatch in cross hatched lines, and then we started chiseling it all out. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/IMG_0151.JPG It was extremely wet (not rotten) stinky, heavy plywood in there. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/IMG_0154.JPG Once the hatch was all cleaned up, i set it by the wood stove to dry out for an hour or so. I hit the underside with the grinder, then some 40 grit sand paper to scuff it up. I cut out some new plywood and glued it down https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/IMG_0162.JPG AFter a couple of hours i pulled off my weight to check out my new deck. Seems like i got good adhesion and the deck seems nice and tight. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...0/IMG_0159.JPG I filled the seams with thickened resin https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...0/IMG_0158.JPG I got both sides glued back down, let them sit for a couple of hours and pulled the weight to check it out. Here's my new deck https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...0/IMG_0164.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/IMG_0161.JPG At this point i have used 3 gallons of polyester resin. The deck project came out pretty well. My next trip i need to grind the seam and i will seal it up with a 3-4" tape and glass it down. After some sanding, fairing, and fresh non-skid i don't think you will ever be able to tell it was done. I hope to also get my tank hatch underside glassed. As much as i don't want to do it, i think i am just going to have to bite the bullet, sand, prep, and shoot the inside of the hull with a fresh paint job. It's just going to be much easier with it taken apart. The boat is so much smaller than the 23 it shouldn't be a terrible job. I have to imagine that i've gotten rid of 100 pounds of wet plywood on this boat, possibly more. The tank hatch weighed probably 100 pounds before and i could pick it up with 1 hand after. Same story with the deck. I've got a week off at the end of the month and i hope to make some big strides on the project. Be nice to have the boat in the water by summer. -Mike |
nice thread, what do you have in mind for bait if you eliminate the in floor tank i hate an infloor tank and need to decide myself
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mrobertson, how did you deal with the wet wood around the deck perimiter under the border of the original decking you left when you cut it ? and are those the original skins you glued back on the new plywood ?
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Well - i haven't cut mine out yet and i'm still trying to decide. I am not a bait fisherman as i mostly use light tackle and fly. However, we do alot of flounder drifting and sometimes use live bait for that purpose. i honestly think i'm going to keep the in floor well. It's not plumbed now so i'm still brainstorming what i should do. |
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Yes - those are the original top skins i glued back in. I cut into the deck about 1/2" and pryed the skins up, leaving them in tact. Before putting them back down i made sure to grind the underside and sanded with a 40 grit paper. |
What I did to get at the borders was use a small electric chain saw and it took it out quickly.
I was carefull not to cut the boat in 1/2 Then when I replaced the wood I was able to tuck in new ply into that area |
SO -
Yesterday was a grueling day. I spend a majority of it with a grinder in my hand and it was terrible. I was however, thoroughly impressed with the hardness of awlgrip paint. When it is stuck, its there for good. I started off the day with my fuel tank hatch. Pulled of the weights, flipped it over and cut some cloth to seal it up. I gave it a layer of light, 4oz cloth to start https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...255B1%255D.JPG I wet that out and give it a 2nd layer of 1708 for some strength https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...0/IMG_0180.JPG It only took about an hour to cure, so i flipped it over and glassed over the old pie plate. I am moving my tank forward so i'll need to cut another hole. I had to do a little build up so this was a couple of layers of alternating 4oz, 1708, and chopped strand mat https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...0/IMG_0187.JPG This part seperates the men from the boys. I had to grind out the seams, level them up a bit, in preparation to glass them over with fiberglass tape. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...0/IMG_0184.JPG Both sides done - i ground out alot to give myself plenty of room to sort of "feather" it https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/IMG_0186.JPG I used a 4" cloth tape and wet it out to completely cover the seams all the way around https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/IMG_0188.JPG Both sides wet out and seams sealed up https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...0/IMG_0190.JPG That grinder work is strenuous. I was impressed with the thickness of the original gelcoat on the boat. I had to work hard to grind it down to bare glass. Really - the only glasswork i have left to do is to make a couple of bulkheads and some slats for my new tank to sit on. Then it's on to the hard work of sanding and prepping for paint. I'm glad that part of the job is done and i'm ready to move forward!!!! |
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Let me know if you have any questions... I just did a full restore on my '89. I know exactly what your going through. It will pay off in the end!! Good luck, looks good so far!
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I didn't get a whole lot done this weekend due to St Patty's day. However, i did get some work done.
I wanted to lay up some solid fiberglass slats for my new tank to sit on. It's a pretty easy process but does require alot of material, i.e. cloth and resin depending on how thick you want them to be. Start off with a piece of inexpensive tile board from home depot. It's just sitting on a piece of particle board across a couple of saw horses. i basically figured out that i wanted 6 slats, 4 inches wide, 28 inches long. SO i measured out a 26 x 30 rectangle (give yourself a little room for error) on the tile board. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/IMG_0193.JPG What you want to do next is WAX the tile board. Not sure whether or not any old wax will work, but this is a mold release wax we bought from US composites. It looks just like regular wax. It's cheap enough so oh well. Lay on a good thick coat so the resin wont stick to the tile board. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...0/IMG_0194.JPG I precut my cloth because the resin working time is slow little that you want to have it all ready to go https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...0/IMG_0195.JPG Then all you do is wet out a layer, add a layer, wet, add, wet, add, etc until you have the desired thickness. I did 7 layers alternating 1708 biax, mat, and some leftover 4oz cloth. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...0/IMG_0196.JPG No picture, but when it hardens slide a screw driver underneath and the whole sheet will pop up in 1 piece. I trimmed the slats to the desired length and width. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...0/IMG_0206.JPG With 7 layers mine came out to be just about 1/4" thick, solid fiberglass https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l...0/IMG_0207.JPG On a more exciting note - i slipped off to a dealer to pick up this : https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...0/IMG_0198.JPG Unfortunately - it's not something overly exciting. However, it is a new in box 2005 Yamaha 115 2 Stroke. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...0/IMG_0202.JPG I asked alot of questions to other seacraft owners about the engine/boat combination. This hull is rated for 225HP, which is overkill and anyone who has one will agree. One owner actually has a 225 on this hull and reported 62 mph top end. That's a little extreme for me. A 130 - 150 would have been nice, but i paid about 50% of the price on this 115 so i'm going to see how it runs. There are plenty of owners out there running 115's on 20 Seacrafts. My WOT is going to be in the 35 - 38 mph range with a cruise of 25 - 27 mph. For my purposes the engine should be adequate and give good fuel economy for a 2 stroke carb'd engine. I'm actually looking forward to seeing how it does perform. I hope that re-doing the deck, cutting the fuel tank down and moving it forward will help reduce the overall weight of the boat. Likewise i'm not going to put a T-Top on. This will be a pretty simple rig, so i hope that the 115 will perform well. If i can cruise at 25 and WOT 35 i will be 100% happy. My intended purpose for the boat is really summer time fishing the upper/mid bay and spring fishing for flounder in the skinny water. Tight Lines -Mike |
I made up some ground this week while i was off for spring break. I started off the week concentrating on my tank coffin. First, i measured and cut out a couple of bulkheads for the front and rear of the tank.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...0/100_0239.JPG Then i glassed them over with a layer of 1708 and poly resin https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...0/100_0241.JPG Once everything cured, i trimmed the fiberglass slats to size and gave everything a test fit https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/100_0243.JPG i painted the bottom of the bilge, then tabbed the slats and the bulkheads into place https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...0/100_0247.JPG Once everything had cured, i finished painting the bilge https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...0/100_0253.JPG I laid out all my hatches and sanded down to 320 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...0/100_0251.JPG Mid-week i got a call from Andy Bloodsworth that my fuel tank was ready to be picked up. I can't speak highly enough of his work. I will post a few pics of the tank so you can see the quality of the welds. This tank is 3/16" and will hold 50 gallons of fuel. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...0/100_0260.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...0/100_0261.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...0/100_0262.JPG Back to work in the shop i setup a small poor mans paint both so that i could spray all of my hatches https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/100_0249.JPG The paint im using on this project is made by EPIFANES. It's a single part monourethane paint. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...0/100_0254.JPG I sprayed the edges of all the hatches with 2 coats sanding in between with a 320 grit paper https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/100_0259.JPG I taped off the hatches to prepare for non skid. I am using a product called KIWIGRIP, in white https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...0/100_0267.JPG |
The Kiwigrip gives a nice even texture. you have to pull the tape off while its wet
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...0/100_0275.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...0/100_0273.JPG i moved the boat outside and did 3 rounds of sanding (many hours) with a DA sander. I started with an 80 grit, then a 180, finally a 320 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/100_0266.JPG I moved the boat back inside and created a much bigger poor mans paint booth https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/100_0278.JPG Eveyrthing got taped off https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...0/100_0279.JPG I shot on a couple of coats of paint. Everything was done except the floor. I need a little more sanding and fairing before putting down non skid https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...0/100_0284.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/100_0285.JPG I ordered my console, should be here this week. Next weekend i hope to set the tank for good and close up the main hatch. I still need to buy controls for my engine. I hope to cast a line from this boat by June. Stay tuned i hope to move quick on this project. -Mike |
Nice job!!!!!
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Mike
..looks great...I love your spay booth....when you spray do you have any type of water filter between compressor and gun...(or is it unnecessary??.).also do you regulate air pressure at gun or at compressor? I am doing research on setting up for spraying down the road...!!! thanks so much..... Also that Kiwi grip looks great...how much do you think you will end up using of the Kiwi grip???... ...keep the pics coming -Fred |
Mike, I'm with Fred on the Kiwi Grip. Stuff looks pretty spiff!!! Doing a great job, looks great!!!
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Hi Fred -
I sprayed that paint with an el - cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP gun. First, i drained any water from the compressor tank. I have a water filter in the line right at the compressor. And Harbor freight has some throw away filters that go on the gun for just a couple of bucks, i run one of those as well. I set the pressure at the tank really high, like 120 psi. Then i have a regulator on the gun set much lower, around 40 psi. As far as the kiwigrip goes............fantastic product plain and simple. I'm curious if it will stand the test of time. I bought a gallon of it for $140 and i used not quite a quart on the hatches. I think overall, i will use about 3/4 of the gallon on the whole project. This stuff is about the thickness of soft serve ice cream. It covers very well, you only need 1 coat of it. You basically dab it around the area with a brush, then roll it out with the roller. It's dries in about 10 - 12 hours and it's soft enough for bare feet, yet aggressive enough that im not worried about slipping. We used DURABAK on the non-skid of our 23 SC restore, and i like this kiwigrip better. |
Thanks Mike...I appreciate all the info..!!!!Again keep it coming!!
-Fred |
howdo aply the kwikgrip?
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The material itself is the consistency of a thick milkshake. It says it's 10 times thicker than normal paint. Tape off the area you are applying it first. Then i used a cheap paint brush and dabbed some of it around the area. Then you come back with your roller and roll it out in all 4 directions to get an even coat. If you buy a gallon they give you the roller cover and the stuff is water soluble so you can wash it out and re-use. What's nice about this stuff is you can open the can, then close it. I contacted them and they even said that you could dump the material into ziplock bags, rinse out the can, put the bags in the can, and it will be fine for like 2 years. The durabak we used on my 23, once the air hits it, you either use it or lose it. BTW - if you do a youtube search for KIWIGRIP there are a couple of vids on there showing the process. It's really easy and very effective. |
Mike....so you would recommed to stay away from Durabak?
Is the Kiwigrip real rubbery like the Durabak..I used Durabak about 10 years ago on a Speedcraft that I redid....it was real rubbery!!! Let me know! Kiwigrip seems easy enough to apply...checked out youtube video! Also when I rolled on Durabak..I got unevenness even with their special roller...seems like the Kiwigrip went on pretty even..or did you have to keep reworking an area to make it come out as nice as it did fo you?? Also I was thinking the kiwigrip might fill in small imperfections so the filling and fairing finish does not have to be like slick glass...what do you think?? Thanks -Fred |
I wouldn't say stay away from durabak. It's really all in what you want/like. The durabak has a thick rubbery feel too it. It's too aggressive for bare feet. However, if you are building a fishing boat, i guarantee you won't slip on durabak, under any conditions. Durabak cleans up well with a power washer. If you are a clean freak, id say NO to durabak. It holds dirt and grime, but again it does clean up well. It seems to be very durable and will cover imperfections, so less sanding/fairing.
This is the durabak on my 23 : https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D...2/SANY0342.JPG The kiwigrip is a much softer texture, it doesn't feel rubbery at all. It dries to a more hard feel. As far as making it even.........all i did was blob it around on the area and then use the roller and went in all 4 directions. The directions say you can wait for an hour and then re-roll and it will "pull" it up more for a more aggressive texture. I didn't do that, i just rolled it then pulled the tape off, and let it dry overnight. I think the kiwi will be easier to keep clean than the durabak. The price is about the same. I've had the durabak on for a year and we fish pretty hard. When it's clean it still looks the same as it did when we put it on. Either is a good product, but i give ease of use and looks to the kiwigrip. I think the price is about the same on both. |
It's been a couple of weeks since i've updated. I've been working, just been lazy uploading pics and updating the thread.
I taped off the gunnels and rolled out my non skid. I'm extremely happy how it came out. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...0/100_0290.JPG I went ahead and re-installed the hardware on my stern rigging/storage boxes. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...0/100_0299.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/100_0300.JPG I installed flush mount cleats and the gunnel rod holders https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/100_0296.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/100_0297.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/100_0297.JPG I installed flush mount cleat and flush mount pop up bow light, which also got pre-wired https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...0/100_0303.JPG I had to cut a 4 inch access hole to be able to get to my fuel fill and vent. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/100_0293.JPG I put a pvc sleeve in my rear bulkhead to feed my fuel line through. This is for the fuel line that will feed the engine. It has to make its way to the stern, and this was the simplest way. The sleeve helps protect from chafe and also protects the wood from water intrusion. I loaded it up with 5200 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m...0/100_0292.JPG I cut up some rubber strips for the tank to rest on. I then 5200 them to my solid fiberglass tank slats https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/100_0291.JPG I dropped the tank into place https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...8/100_0295.JPG I epoxied/screwed a piece of 3/4 marine plywood to all 4 of the tank mounting locations. After i dropped the tank in, i shimmed it up with some scrap pieces of startboard and screwed through the tank tab, the starboard, and into the wood https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/100_0294.JPG No pictures but all hoses got stainless clamps, 2 at each end. Likwise, the fill gets grounded to the tank, and the tank will be grounded to a common ground. I pre-ran my tank sending wires as well |
I dropped my tank hatch in place and marked out where my tank fittings location is. I was going to use a square hatch, but ultimately i used a 6" pie plate.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...0/100_0304.JPG In the picture you can see my new console. It came from a pathfinder bay boat. I dropped it and the post in place to get an idea where everything will fall. The console has no front seat so it gives more room in front. Likewise it's tall so it will be a good fit for me being 6'3". https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...0/100_0308.JPG Here you see the tank hatch is down for good. And a 4" chase tube for pulling my riggin https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/100_0311.JPG Terrible quality pics but i did some final sanding, then taped the floor and rolled out some fresh non skid https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/100_0313.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/100_0312.JPG I pushed the console pretty far forward. With no front seat, it gives some room in the front but also leaves lots of room in the stern to fish. Also, with only a 115 and an already stern heavy boat, having the console forward should help it to plane off. I had been toying with the idea of painting the hull. I think i am going to hold off though. At this point, im going to put the rub rail back on and start rigging it up. Money is starting to get a little tight so i'm thinking it might be a slow go. Also, i have a trailer project to do as i am converting from rollers to bunks. I'm hoping i will have this boat in the water by mid-june. I am super excited to see how the boat rides and performs. -Mike |
I've been lazy to update, and also lazy to take pictures.
I'm writing to you from the land of skinned up knuckles. There are few things i have ever attempted that i thought to myself, this probably wasn't worth it. I recently added something to that list..................rebuilding a trailer. Now sure, trailers are expensive. Nobody wants to shell out thousands of dollars for a new trailer. My 20 seacraft purchase came with a 1999 Load Rite galvanized trailer. When i bought the boat, i didn't really pay much attention to the trailer. So, after the fact i only realized that the trailer was in poor shape. The frame and axles are both very solid with very little rust at all. The springs were pretty much gone, alot of the U-bolts were rotting away, the hubs had drum brakes that were toast. So - i have this great idea to replace all of these parts thinking to myself i can squeek by on the cheap. I ordered 4 new springs, 4 new hubs, LED lights, and various hardware from Eastern Marine. All of that was a $600 purchase by the time tax and shipping are factored in. The trailer originally had rollers on it that again were in poor shape. For the cost of replacing every roller, i assumed it would be cheaper to convert the trailer with bunks. I made my own bunks out of pressure treated 2x8x12 lumber. I glued and screwed 2 together, then covered with adhesive and outdoor carpeting. I also added bunk slicks to make the boat go on and off easier. That little project cost me about $200 - $250. So now that i've spend upwards up $900, i then proceed to spend an entire day torching, cutting, grinding, cussing, and hammering all of the old stuff off the trailer. It wasn't terrible, but absolutely NONE of the bolts are you getting off with a wrench or socket. YOu are cutting every single bolt off. Once all that was done, i spent a few hours putting all the new parts on and now i have a nice tandem that has been rebuilt. Hindsight i don't think it was worth the cost and effort. I could have sold the trailer as is for probably $1000 and put that towards something new. Oh well we live and learn. Aside from that, i gave the boat a new bottom paint job, put the rub rail back on, and threw her back on the trailer. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...0/IMG_0247.JPG All i really have left to do is hang the engine and rig it up. I've got some plumbing to take care of but thats no big deal. I'm not sure when i'll have the time, but again i hope to take a ride in this boat sometime in June. -Mike |
That's not what I wanted to hear as I to am in a trailer rehab
I got a new to me 2 axle trailer ( another story) for free and I just put the MA on it Sunday. I need to have it fitted to the hull and thought along the same lines as you....replace the u bolts and other hardware as I fitted the boat. Money also tight so I may just wait till I can take it to someone and have it done. They have the tools and knowlege to get it done forthe same money???? And I still have soooooo much to do befofe I can get to splash date |
Jorge -
From the money side - it will certainly be cheaper to rehab the trailer than to buy a new one. If your trailer is in the condition as mine was then be prepared to spend several hundred dollars (really upwards of $1000 if it's tandem). Now - i could have gotten away with replacing 2 springs instead of 4. But, while the boat is off and you are doing it why not do them all. Same with the hubs, i could have probably just done the back 2 and gotten away with it. Those damn rollers are like $20 each and i had 16 and they all needed replacing, that is why i switched to the bunks. By the time i factored in the wood, carpet, adhesive, stainless staples, etc....it cost me over $200 to build the bunks. Then i needed brackets to mount the bunks with. My situation i think i could have gotten $1000 for my trailer as it was, mostly because the frame is not rusted and neither is the axles, so its a good base. I think i could buy a brand new suitable trailer for probably $2500. So it's a toss up. |
The hubs and axles and springs are in good shape what needs done is the bunks and then adjust the rollers that go down the middle.
Right now the bunks are a bit short to the bottom of the hull. Either I need to lower the middle rollers or move the bunks closer in But like you said all thes bolts need to be cut off But that involves taking the boat off the trailer cut off everything and replacing and getting the boat back on and then adjust. Wish I had a over head winch to get this done |
Your boat is looking great. Nice choice on the consel. Keep the pic's coming :)
strick |
I feel your pain on the trailer. I repowered and changed tanks last year, and changed the electrics and steering and I think I STILL spent more time on the trailer. I am budgeting for a new one in 2-3 years. Ask me about surge brakes....
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I've been doing little odds and ends to the boat as i've had time and been at my parents. This weekend we got blown out of a fishing trip in chincoteague. The water was chocolate milk and instead of wasting time, we just threw in the towel. I already had the hall pass, so i just stuck it out at my parents and turned a corner on this project.
People always ask if there's anything i'd do differently on the 23 restore. There is 1 thing. The batter switch is under the console, and very hard to get to. With the door on the side, you pretty much have to lay on the floor and reach in to turn it on/off. I changed that. I bought a flush mount battery switch box. Mounted it right to the side of the console for very easy access : https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...0/100_0314.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/100_0315.JPG I started carving up my brand new console. I still have 1 or 2 more things to add, but you get the general idea about what it's going to look like : https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/100_0317.JPG I also went ahead and unboxed my new yamaha 115 2 stroke. I went ahead and lined it up and bolted it to the transom : https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/100_0319.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...0/100_0321.JPG I didn't take pictures, but all of the holes in the transom that were needed, i overdrilled and epoxied in a PVC "sleeve" to protect the wood. The transom is original and in good shape, i want to preserve it as long as i can. Likewise, i used an overkill amount of 5200 on my thru hull connections and motor bolts. I also got some time to drop in my bilge pump (1500 GPH) and livewell plumbing. I need to get a couple of pieces of hose and then all of my plumbing will be complete. I did as much of the wiring as i could in the console while it's out of the boat. I'm trying to make it so when i drop it in the boat it's pretty much plug and play. Hopefully one more good weekend and i'll be ready to splash!!! Tight Lines -Mike |
BTW - I want to give a shout to BILLY THE KID for his restore post. You'll see i kind of laid my console out like his, and he was the inspiration for the flush mount battery switch box.
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The word "done" is never really relative on a restored boat. You've done so much work, you continue to find things that you want to correct or change. That being said, my 20 seacraft is now "done". I definitely fizzled out on the picture taking towards the end. You missed alot of wiring and fastening things down.
Here's my 2 battery system and the remote oil tank for my yammie 115 2 smoker https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...0/100_0323.JPG I pulled all my cabling, and buttoned up the engine end first.....got a good deal on the rigging tube from another TF'er https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...0/100_0322.JPG Console about to be 5200'd and screwed down to it's final resting place https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...0/100_0324.JPG Bypass a couple of hours of my laying on my back, squezzing through a tiny hole making connections and here is where i am at : https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/100_0328.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...0/100_0329.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...0/100_0331.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...0/100_0327.JPG And now.............i'm starting a fleet of seacrafts : https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...0/100_0335.JPG I'm happy to get it done, but there are still some things i need to tweak. I need to have someone make me a windshield for starters and there's some work to be done on my in deck livewell plumbing. -Mike |
Looks great Taps plastics can make the windshield. Make a template out of cardboard and they will copy it. Where did you get a new 05 115 Yamaha?
strick |
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