bilge pumps & float switches ?
 

I have a 1500 gph manual Rule in my 18 SF that is activated by a rocker switch in the instrument panel & after reading some concerning posts about sinking boats due to pump failure I have decided to install an additional second pump with a float switch or wire a float switch to the existing pump & install a manual pump as a back up.
The existing pump has a 1 1/8" discharge port & hose but the previous owner had it fastened to a 3/4" thru hull with a short piece of 3/4" hose inserted inside the larger hose as a reducer over the 3/4" thru hull barb & fastened with a hose clamp . There is good flow when activated but I don't know whether to leave it as is or go through the trouble of enlarging the hole & replace the existing 3/4" thru hull with a 1 1/8". I would also like some advice/opinion on what size & make pump & float switch to use.

Enlarge the hole and change the hose and flange to get your maximum flow. And use quality smoothed walled hose rather than that cheap corrugated stuff they call bilge hose. Personally, I prefer the Rules with the integrated float switches. Some don't like Rule but I have not had one fail. 1200 - 1500 gph should be just fine. Also prefer the Three-way switch with auto/off/manual. Some prefer the self-cycling pumps. I don't.

Here are a couple of good threads on the subject. I'm sure there are many more.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ilge+flow+test
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ilge+flow+test

The existing 1 1/8" hose appears to be auto heater hose, reddish brown in color , smooth walled & in like new condition .I replaced the original on/off switch with a on/off/mometary switch & connected a buzzer to sound when the switch is turned on. I'm kind of hesitant about auto pumps or float switches for fear that they may get stuck in the on position & drain the battery or even worst, get stuck closed & not be able to activate the pump.

defiently go to a 1 1/8" outlet. i have 2 pumps in both of my boats. 1 1000gph rule on a float with wired to on(float)-off-on(manual) and the 2000 is just on-off for emergency. the same in the other boat only with 2 2000 gph rules.

I opted for two switches, two pumps, one port, one starboard. I wired mine after the battery switch as it is a trailer queen. If I had a slip or mooring, I would have them direct to battery.

As a side note, I am impressed at how well even a 6 watt solar panel will charge two batteries. Mine was $70 at defender. Which would be nice if I had a slip.

Also someone here told me to stuff the hull with "pool noodles". To help with flotation. I don't think it can hurt if you put plastic fencing between the stringers to keep the pool noodles from pinning a float switch down.

[QUOTE=FishStretcher;207271]I opted for two switches,

I'm stuck between a rock & a hard place on this one ! My boat is on a trailer as well but sometimes stays in the water overnight on weekends & that's the reason I thought it would make more sense to add an additional automatic pump as opposed to having two switched manual pumps.

I have two pumps, a Whale low profile 650 gph with water sensing on off 3/4 inch discharge. It is wired to it's own separate battery. My larger pump is a Rule 11000 gph with a built in float switch and also a manual run switch wired to the motor battery. I did not want the smaller pump to run down my main battery and I like the redundancy. I also have a third pump I can plug into a battery jump box if things go south and I am on board.

The rule is a 1100 not 11000 gph pump.

[QUOTE=sidelock;207274]I do the same. I am pretty sure I have the rule #43 switches, which allow for manual and automatic operation. The float switches are for auto mode. Plus a manual bypass. So I can leave it on overnight on auto, and pump manually if I want. And i have a port system and a starboard system.

Someday I will wire them directly to the different batteries. So If one fails, then if the water gets just a bit higher, the other pump will run.

I second the motion. Mine had a thru hull that was 1/2" I.D. and, get this, a 90 degree elbow inside the hull with the corrugated hose!! I put a 1" straight thru hull fitting and upped the hose to the clear smooth 1" hose. With a 1500 gph pump, it empties the bilge in HALF the time! Less battery drain + more water out of the bilge faster = 1 happy guy!

My 3/4 " thru hull is 90 degree also but I will take a good look & see if a 1 1/8" straight fitting will clear the protruding threaded tip of the stern lift eye inside the transom compartment & the legs/bolts of the new GEM lift-up cleats I just installed .
Having said that there is a pretty good strong flow out of the existing set up with the 3/4" 90 degree but I would imagine it will be a lot better with straight 1 1/8" fittings.

I run 2 pumps both with float switches. One is an 800 ghp (hot to float, manual on-off connected to my starting batt. The other is a 1200gph with the float switch mounted half way up the stringer connected hot to my house battery.

Would two 2000 gph pumps be overkill for an 18Sf ? I'm thinking that smaller boats go down faster than bigger boats because of water volume to size ratio & thought the quicker the water is pumped out , the better. Someone also stated that the general rule is for every foot of boat lenght you should be able to pump 100gph.

guarantee you you'll have more gph per foot than anybody. but run'em regularly just to know they work.
do a search to check out mitchman's viddy to see how fast they can go down.

Does anyone have any experience with Ultra pump switches from USS (Ultra Safety Systems) ? The owner/developer of the switches is very helpful with info/advice , seems very confident in his product & offers a lifetime warranty. Not cheap but money well spent if they are as reliable & dependable as he claims they are.

Sidelock,
I have the USS Ultra switch in my 23'. Very robust constuction; has been in my bilge for approx. 9 years now with no issues. Highly recommended.