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Building splashwells for 20 Master Angler
I am going to build a modified splash well for my 20 MA. It has a 20" transom. I think I am going to build a plug, then a real female mold, from which I can pull multiple parts. I will probably vacuum bag mine with a foam core. Maybe even do it out of carbon, as I have some kicking around. It will have a bump out so an outboard can trim all the way up- which is why I am doing this. Mine doesn't have this feature.
I am considering selling these if there is interest. Hermco doesn't make them, unfortunately. |
I have an factory splash well on my MA and it wworks great
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I don't even use my full door one, but the trim is an issue, nasty crunching sounds when I forget - I would use a split door like a Sceptre out of Teak or starboard hinging the top half and a couple bungies for trim. I used bungies for trim and it worked fine on mine cause I would forget I had it on, I go in and out too much so don't use it. Doesn't take any room and my MA has 1/2" molded cut out for it.
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Getting water out is just as important as taking.
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If I ever got another 20MA . . . I would make something like this, but a little nicer.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=19593 http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...uctwrap017.jpg Back in the day 2005 . . . I made a mold and did a splashwell for a 20MA, but I never finished that project boat and it went to the dump. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...6/P1010290.jpg http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...6/P1010287.jpg |
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The plug is started. It is solid, as I am thinking of vacuum bagging the plug and mold, just to keep the mess down, plus I can sand the radii into it with a long board before I attach the "bump out" to the door. Plus I don't have a nice table saw for compound joinery. I am more of a CNC mill guy than a Delta table saw guy.
I haven't done parts from scratch in a while- I am working in the corner of my garage for now until it gets too big. I will post the CAD screenshot of the tilted motor showing where the motor interferes. It looks like 8" is what I need with an in-line 4 cylinder 4 stroke like my Yamaha. Maybe Jorgeinmiami can take a tape measure to his to check clearance. I think he has a tower of power on his 20' MA. Two things I noticed: I haven't worked extensively with MDF before. Wow, is it dusty. I am using my paint respirator with the pink N95 "bodyman" filters. Cordless power tools have come a long way with lithium-ion. I bought a Ryobi 18V combo package, and the circular saw has paid for itself already. |
You could have "borrowed" mine to do a plug
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Ah fishST . . . have you considered adding a 9" jackplate and seal the edges of the splashwell gate permanently? That should give you the room to get full tilt range without having to fold down the gate.
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My CAD model dictating the minimum protrusion needed.
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so I think I want to put a ~6" wide cushion around the edge. Like what is on the inner cap edge/ gunwale on some 23 footers I have seen. So now that toes can be under the bump out, it will be possible to bang kneecaps into the top, so a cushioned pad should be there. Is there a trick to this, or just go to any upholstery shop? One with a nice SeaCraft logo would be just the thing.
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I have cut up a lot of MDF. The bump out looks huge, but it is only 7.5" deep so far, with 10 layers of 3/4" MDF. I think I will put the top lip facing inwards, maybe 5/8" and a coaming pad about 2" thick just under it.
The layers aren't bonded together yet, just stacked atop each other. It is about 20" wide at the most top/forward point. A couple more layers and then I break out the 36 grit belt sander to put the giant radii in it. |
Why waste the space? If you want it closed them enclose the transom and do a bracket. The splash well would take up a fair amount of fishing space, if in fact you are fishing. If you don't fish then there is no reason not to have a closed transom!
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Well, I might like a bracket, but that isn't in the upgrade schedule right now, plus this allows you to keep the center of mass in about the right spot when you are up on plane, with the resulting good handling. I think Bushwacker has a few excellent posts on the pros and cons of brackets.
It also keeps water out of the boat a lot better than the 20" cutout, and it allows me to fish better, like backing down on a fish or over a spot on the bottom. |
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Made some progress, finally!
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Fine work there.
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Once I pull a part or two, maybe someone would want the plug?
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Nice work FishStretcher! With the available toe kick, I’ve never found the splashwell intrusive while fishing. And even though I never saw the need to have it caulked tight, it saved my arse from sinking one time while WAY overloaded for an island weekend camp, and backing off the trailer directly into 3’ rollers I’ve never seen at the ramp. Fortunately, my non-boating partner paid attention and backed down in time for me to reload. It was a lot better than what was inevitable. I may be interested in a replacement for mine to lose the old power head/tilt cutout. Further, I have a full engine shroud from a SeaVee 25 that you or may not be interested in as a plug. Not sure the Snowbirds staying at my house in Fla., would strap it to the roof of their Jeep Cherokee, when returning June 1st to the Cape. Just a few random thoughts. I’d love to have the shroud as an additional seat while cruising, bait station, two additional rod holders, noise canceling of my two stroke, and if reinforced, possibly a cobia spotting platform.
Vezo, Part II |
Looks like a nice plug! I bet it weights a ton! Looking forward to seeing the progress.
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Hello, Fishstretcher. Any productivity on the splashwell? Since my 1999 OMC V-6 is marginally reaching, and base of splashwell 21 3/4” from top of transom, maybe you could build a top, just inverted? Any thoughts?
Vezo, Part II |
Hello FishStretcher. Any progress on your final product? I’d like to close the cutout for the outboard while tilted up, but was hoping you had finished yours. Any new reports? Thanks.
Vezo, Part II |
Still around Fishstretcher?
Vezo |
Been super busy with work. Plug is about done. Plan to take the first splash off of it in a month. Family stuff ties me up until then.
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Standing by, Thanks.
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Yeah. Bought a house and then family stuff came up. But I have a better shop now. The plug is sanded.
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Any news FishStretcher? Just curious.
Vezo, Part II |
I finally got back to this. Life got in the way. I sealed, them waxed the plug tonight for I hope the 4th and final time.
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I have an Original MA splash well that you can use to male a plug.
If it helps you let me know |
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Thanks! If I goof this, then I may take you up on it. Don?t judge me on my workspace... I finally got a warm day. In January. :D
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project is paused this week for non-optional house repair.
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Some pictures. Almost done. Finally.
Twill and uni carbon with divyncel H80 core and Mertons vinylester epoxy. Cross posted in the Hermco splashwell mold thread. I may pull a "pretty" part then offer up the mold. This one is 8lbs. |
I may be interested. Please keep me in mind.
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I can, but this is specific to a master angler, unless that gap and tall cap fits another boat? I expect that I am not interested in going into production. VE resin is $75 a gallon, and I am too old for this. I started the plug a long time ago- maybe 2013? It looks like you have a 23 footer? I have a 20 foot MA.
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23' is sold SPF and plans are next up is a 20' MA
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That makes more sense! That mold might be good for 3-4 more parts. After I clean up this one, we should talk.
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So the mold needs a doable tweak. It’s a long story but I forgot about the step in the cap. I ground it to fit but it could use tuning. Still, it works great and there is no perception of lost space due to the toe kick area. Gel coat had clumps so this has texture. I may sand and refinish if/when I redo the decks and cap.
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If anyone local wants my old flat splashwell gate, let me know.
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