Blast From the Past, 20 SF Redo
 

I have been a member of this site for a long time.

Bought my 1973 20 SF in the early nineties, fished it, loved it, blew up at least one power head on it, kind of replaced the transom once, pulled the tank and cobbled it together and even made some money with it.

Things changed, the babies came, boats were bought and sold. But the one thing I held onto was my 20SF.

Been contemplating a rebuild since I found CSC, decided this winter is the time to get started. I don't forsee this being a quick build as I have a Parker and a Whaler also, but would like this boat setup perfect for my needs, I have had A LOT of time to think about it. She needs a deck, needs a transom, will replace the tank, raise the transom, etc. I would like it to return to a mostly stock configuration.

Last time she was registered and in the water was '04.

So, here we go. Dragged it out of the back yard yesterday and sold the old motor off it. Got A guy coming today to take it away. So the fun begins!!!

Some pics I sent Trayder many years ago of photos that were taken many years before that.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/Bryan...0cc/index.html

And how she sits today.

Well, the fun begins!!

Gotta say Trayder, I like the image hosting. The photobucket account days of old was a PITA.

looking forward to seeing this build. there is something about this boat that makes me like it alot.

Thanks Blue!!!

OK, here's a question for discussion.

As I stated before, I'm leaning in the direction of keeping most of the boat in a stock configuration BUT, what to do with the Transom.

Obviously I'm going to raise it 5" when the core is replaced. I would like to put the batteries under the console for better weight distribution so that leaves the stern "Jump seats" where the batteries and oil tank were.

Should I leave them stock?

I like what was done to Mark's 20. Top pic.
I like the idea of incorporating a livewell back there somewhere that is not in the floor

The middle one is nice too.

And Trayders blurry pic on the bottom.

Or just keep it stock? What do you think?

IMHO...you really have to think hard what is your boat going to be used for 90% of the time. etc. why do you want or need the jump seats? If you have kids or friends that are riding with you all time then seats are important.

If you live fish most of the time then the wells are the thing to have.

Building the 21 I finally came to the conclusion that the boat was going off shore for grouper and that my wife and I will use it mainly as a picnic boat. So the rebuild is done in that fashion.

Have fun,

What a GD beautiful boat. Seacrafts are just so great.

I agree, I am going to keep the console front seat and maybe have cushions made for the front deck so seating won't be a problem.

I suspect most of the use for this boat will be fishing with one to 3 people so a livewell is key.

for those that have a livewell in the transom, does the offset weight cause any handling problems??

20 SF Redo
 

Man, I still love those old woodgrain dashes with the "SeaCraft" logo in the left corner. I know, a pain in the ass to keep looking good but I still love the look as opposed to the all white fiberglass. My 2 cents.

The live well is the main issue. Moving the weight forward helps to balance the boat out nicely. Having the livewell above the deck is a big bonus. It's a lot of work but I really like the lay out of my 20 sf. By incorporating the livewell into a seat/leaning post combo and I still have lots of room to move around the stern of the boat. Another option is to buy a leaning post livewell combo and leave the seats in the stock config.

On the 20 sceptre I'm re doing I plan on using it for fishing and taking the kids inner tubing etc so the seats make a useful step to climb over the transom and onto the bracket so they can get in and out of the water easily. Have you thought about adding a bracket? I know some guys dont like them....

strick

Yeah, the livewell requires some thought. Bracket?? Was trying to keep it simple but not totally out of the question.

The leaning post I have works well and is in pretty good shape, maybe a little modification.

I found this pic going through the archives. Anyone have experience with fitting a livewell in front of the console in the stock seat??

I like this concept, not to impressed with the install.

i think i would raise the boxes all the way to gunnel height but not have lids so i can install a rod holder on each side for maybe the taco cutting board on one side or a trident for kite fishing on the other side. they would be accesable through hatches on the front side. i would probably keep the floor livewell because it does keep bait alive. i would also keep the rest of the boat in stock config except the bow rails. i would make those alot lower for a sleeker look.

Bait might get beat up a little in the front. It wold not be too hard to make that look good. You would have to make a fiberglass flange that inserts into the livewell opening and tucks up under the seat flange. I have some pictures somewhere I'll see if I can find them.

strick

Here is another question.

What is the latest on replacing the transom.

Should I go with plywood? Coosa? etc.

Been a while since I read the boards here, need to catch up.

If you fish with live bait I would do something similar to the first picture. You could do two round bait tanks and take them up to the transom /gunnel height. Doors would be easy enough to do with cutting boards on the inside of the door. Just do a 25" open transom.

My livewell doubles as a seat. Plenty of storage for bags/towels/whatever when the livewell isn't being used.

I think the leaning post/livewell combo is nice (although Zach's setup is sweet).I would insulate under the front seat so you can use that space for storage or a cooler.

Bump

Work begins tonight, gonna drag it out from the back yard again, looks like the first thing I need to tackle is the trailer, specifically the hubs hopefully don't have to replace the axle and springs too.

Any good sources for trailer parts?

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/

Their shipping is cheap, especially from their eBay store. Even though I just drive down to their store to get what I need, I really like the USPS, UPS or FedEx truck to bring it to my front door!! :)

Thanks for the link.

Think I need new rims and hubs?? Lol.

If the baitwell is pressured-up with no air gap there's no sloshing and bait stays fine. I like Zack's layout.

One thing I started doing to stop this from happening is to coat the nuts and studs with the silver never-seize. I always did just the studs to help the nuts come off and relized that the stuff keep the nuts from rusting up as well. So I started smearing on some around the nuts too and it keeps them looking new for years. It dose not sling off or will it run all over the rims. Once it sits a few days it gets hard on the out side a little bit and protects them. It will still wipe off easyly and clean up well. This might help you get more time out of the next set. I replaced mine every 2 years now I am going on 5 with the same set and no problems yet. The last thing you want is to have a flat and cant get the nuts off.

Hubs and tires are off gonna get all new stuff there. Axel looks good, maybe get a new spring too, not sure yet.

Getting there hopefully cut the transom out next week or so.

My Slacker loves the weight of the 35 gal live well under the LP. Really sits down. I cut out the in deck well and plumbed it under deck. Bilge access is a cake walk now. You really want round or oval so they don't die in the corner. Gogs have small brains.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ugust08119.jpg

Cheers,
GFS

Well, took apart the major parts on the trailer and looks like I'll be able to get away with just a new set of rims and tires.

Cleaned up and painted the hubs, bearings and races look good. Painted everything up with POR-15 paint. New seals going in and hopefully back together next week. Snow and cold really holding up the works.

Stay tuned.

Well, 60 degrees in the northeast today, the trailer is a roller again.

So onto the regularly scheduled program. Plan is to get the boat inside and start demo on Friday, we'll see. Stay tuned.

Maybe after the boat is finished, I'll treat myself to new fenders for the trailer.

Let me remind people to NOT use Never-Sieze on the prop shaft or anything that will be submerged in salt-water unless you're willing to remove and replace the Never-Sieze at your annual service.

Just as the outside of Never-Sieze gets hard in a couple of days and protects what is underneath, in the same way it continues to get hard underneath the surface until it finally turns into one of the best damn epoxies you ever saw!

I have had to cut off propeller hubs with acetylene torch and air chisel that had been installed with Never-Seize and then not serviced for 5 years or so.

Do the annual maintenance, and you'll be fine.

Thanks for the tip! I service the prop annually, but didn't know about anti sieze siezing up in salt water.

It also has copper in it which reaks havok on aluminum in saltwater. Not the best in the marine environment.

Got the transom out today.

Also pulled the console and the fuel tank out.

Fuel tank. Gonna get a new one made, any recommendations?

Also pulled the bow rail, been wanting to do that since 1993.

Look soooooo much better. Anyone need a bow rail for 20 SF? Come get it.

Mulch pile from the transom demo.

Does anyone have a good/direct replacement for the wood louvered doors in the console?

I like the SeaCraft console, but want to remove all wood (teak) from the outside of the boat.

Sexy hull....

I used sunrise marine for my fuel tank. Excellent quality and fast. I believe he's on this site too. He has a 20 SF I believe.

Thanks Chance. Care to share approx cost?

Right around 500 I believe shipped to the northeast. 50 gallons. I can't find the invoice but I believe it was close to that

Ok thanks.

New question. Pop up cleats. For those that have put them in, which ones will fit in the stock locations without contacting the hull in the bow?

Figured I'd ask if someone already went through it.

Back on the 20SF project. Got a professional helping out with the major stuff. Good to have someone with Transom experience telling me what to do.