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Fuel Tank
I need to acces my fuel tank.Can I just take out the screws from the floor panel and slide it back? Do I need to take the screws out of the helm as well? 1989 20ft center/console SeaCraft Tracker.
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My '89 Tracker CC had a 72 gal that was 93" long. The tank that was shoved pretty much all the way forward so it was under the forward edge of the opening by about a foot. My big problem was getting the foam out between the stringers and tank as it's really packed in there pretty tightly. I chose to remove the console to get complete access. Depending on the size of the tank I think it's possible to slide it out providing you can get most of the foam out but certainly much easier with the console out of the way.
Rod |
Thanks. It is supposed to be a 70 gal tank. The previous owner did not use it. He said it had trash or water in it. I want to clean it out or possible put a bladder in it. I just do not want to be in dry dock very long.
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I had to replace mine because all the foam they put in around it held water, it corroded through and started leaking while it was sitting on the trailer in the driveway :(. Just something to think about, at 24 yrs old it was probably running on borrowed time anyway.
Rod |
Interesting that your tank had foam around it. Moesly and Potter never foamed in the tank because foam holds water against the tank which causes corrosion. Does anyone know if Tracker foamed in their tanks? If not, maybe a previous owner that didn't know what they were doing installed a larger tank and foamed it in.
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I will find out about the foam. I plan on taking the panel up soon. I just wanted to know if it is possible to do it without removing the helm(C/C). I guess I can just take the screws out of it for more freedom.
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My fuel tank was foamed in on my Tracker built 1988 23WA. It wasn't leaking, but it was pitted and I replaced it. The new one is not foamed in.
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Yup, mine was definitely foamed there was even foam on the bottom between the tank and the plywood platform! I took 3 trash cans of that soggy stuff to the dump :eek:
Rod |
Potter used to brag about not foaming in the tanks in his brochures in the early 70's, and claimed that it cost more because he then had to ventilate the bilge. I'm sure he was facing cost pressures in the late 70's before he went broke in '79/80. Wonder if that drove him to start foaming in the tank in '77, which is obviously a bad practice? Sounds like Tracker may have continued the practice?
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Cheers, Slacker |
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I have gotten about 5 gallons of water out of it so far. I do not plan on replacing it at this moment. I am going to just add Seafoam and change filters and run a few gallons of gas through it for now. I have a 25 gallons AUX tank to carry with me for emergency.
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I can't imagine being that far along and not just pulling the tank and check it. Cost is certainly a concern but if you have a local builder..............i had my tank built smaller, about 54 gallons and i had it built out of 1/4" instead of 1/8" (which is typical) and it cost me around $600 for the new tank.
Now at least i have peace of mind and i dont have to carry an auxilary tank. Mine's an 89 Tracker 20 Seacraft as well. There's a few trackers lurking here, great boat https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...2/100_0328.JPG |
Holy moly....1/4"?? That's the "mac daddy" of all tanks!!!
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Tanks out. Does anyone know where to get a bladder or a 70 gallon plastic? Any suggestions? I do not want to go any smaller than what came out
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The problem with plastic is they aren't custom and you are condemned to the shapes and sizes that already exist, which may not work.
Assuming the tank you pulled is 72 or 74 gallons, speedy tanks will build you a new one out of 1/8" aluminum for less than $700. Good luck whatever you decide |
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Cut the old tank in half longitudinally with no explosive tools??? Take half an inch out and use each half for a plug? Just a thought. GFS |
My dad is a TV repairman. He has an ultimate set of tools. I can fix it. Stay tuned.
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the smart play: take the tank to a reputable builder - have a replacement made... before installing the replacement tank - solvent clean,scuff sand the aluminum,then chemically etch prime the surfaces - epoxy barrier coat the tank - i like and recomend interprotect 2000...do not skip the chemical etch prime - fail to do it - nothing will adhere properly... an aluminum tank,protected in this manner is "bulletproof"... do not foam a replacment tank in place: cut starbord strips - 1/4" is ideal -use a product called"starbond" to adhere the starboard to the hull - the tank sits on these...make up chocks,to hold the tank in place... seen worse than that - alot worse... |
My factory tank had neoprene strips under. I wouldn't use Starboard, too stiff and difficult to bond. Neoprene stuck to the tank with DAP Weldwood (red can) contact cement is what my tank builder used and recommends. Some rubber will react and cause corrosion to the aluminum but neoprene is fine. In a dry (free draining) environment the aluminum will oxidize and protect itself pretty well. My tank was stamped 1974 and in great shape, I just wanted to go bigger. I know the subject is controversial but you really only need to barrier coat the aluminum if foamed in or water is trapped next to it.
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Check out Tank Depot Pompano Beach Fl for plastic tanks of all sorts. The tank in picture is shot, anyone finding this sort of corrosion needs to replace the tank as Pelican said. Foaming a bare alum tank in can cause such corrosion. Better to chock in place as previously mentioned. As for coating alum tanks. Auto primer or zinc chromate works for me.
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