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-   -   Fuel Tank (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=24936)

drtyTshrt 01-21-2013 08:11 AM

Fuel Tank
 
I need to acces my fuel tank.Can I just take out the screws from the floor panel and slide it back? Do I need to take the screws out of the helm as well? 1989 20ft center/console SeaCraft Tracker.

otterhound 01-21-2013 10:44 AM

My '89 Tracker CC had a 72 gal that was 93" long. The tank that was shoved pretty much all the way forward so it was under the forward edge of the opening by about a foot. My big problem was getting the foam out between the stringers and tank as it's really packed in there pretty tightly. I chose to remove the console to get complete access. Depending on the size of the tank I think it's possible to slide it out providing you can get most of the foam out but certainly much easier with the console out of the way.
Rod

drtyTshrt 01-21-2013 11:16 AM

Thanks. It is supposed to be a 70 gal tank. The previous owner did not use it. He said it had trash or water in it. I want to clean it out or possible put a bladder in it. I just do not want to be in dry dock very long.

otterhound 01-21-2013 12:00 PM

I had to replace mine because all the foam they put in around it held water, it corroded through and started leaking while it was sitting on the trailer in the driveway :(. Just something to think about, at 24 yrs old it was probably running on borrowed time anyway.
Rod

Bushwacker 01-21-2013 12:39 PM

Interesting that your tank had foam around it. Moesly and Potter never foamed in the tank because foam holds water against the tank which causes corrosion. Does anyone know if Tracker foamed in their tanks? If not, maybe a previous owner that didn't know what they were doing installed a larger tank and foamed it in.

drtyTshrt 01-21-2013 01:45 PM

I will find out about the foam. I plan on taking the panel up soon. I just wanted to know if it is possible to do it without removing the helm(C/C). I guess I can just take the screws out of it for more freedom.

CaptLloyd 01-21-2013 01:54 PM

My fuel tank was foamed in on my Tracker built 1988 23WA. It wasn't leaking, but it was pitted and I replaced it. The new one is not foamed in.

77SceptreOB 01-21-2013 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker (Post 211311)
Interesting that your tank had foam around it. Moesly and Potter never foamed in the tank because foam holds water against the tank which causes corrosion.

Actually, Not so...I have an original 1977 Potter (23' Sceptre) with a "foamed in" gas tank from the factory. We bought this boat brand new in April 1977. I had to replace the original tank in 2009 and it was DEFINATELY foamed in. I cut it out of the foam myself, and yes that is where the leak was due to corrosion from the salt water being held to the tank by the foam.

otterhound 01-21-2013 07:23 PM

Yup, mine was definitely foamed there was even foam on the bottom between the tank and the plywood platform! I took 3 trash cans of that soggy stuff to the dump :eek:
Rod

Bushwacker 01-21-2013 10:06 PM

Potter used to brag about not foaming in the tanks in his brochures in the early 70's, and claimed that it cost more because he then had to ventilate the bilge. I'm sure he was facing cost pressures in the late 70's before he went broke in '79/80. Wonder if that drove him to start foaming in the tank in '77, which is obviously a bad practice? Sounds like Tracker may have continued the practice?

gofastsandman 01-21-2013 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker (Post 211322)
Potter used to brag about not foaming in the tanks in his brochures in the early 70's, and claimed that it cost more because he then had to ventilate the bilge. I'm sure he was facing cost pressures in the late 70's before he went broke in '79/80. Wonder if that drove him to start foaming in the tank in '77, which is obviously a bad practice? Sounds like Tracker may have continued the practice?

Slacker here. You have to pop the console and I think blasting out the foam with a presssure washer in a tyvek suit is fast. Go easy. Urea formadahyde. Pro active.

Cheers,
Slacker

drtyTshrt 01-22-2013 07:16 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I have gotten about 5 gallons of water out of it so far. I do not plan on replacing it at this moment. I am going to just add Seafoam and change filters and run a few gallons of gas through it for now. I have a 25 gallons AUX tank to carry with me for emergency.

mrobertson 01-22-2013 04:28 PM

I can't imagine being that far along and not just pulling the tank and check it. Cost is certainly a concern but if you have a local builder..............i had my tank built smaller, about 54 gallons and i had it built out of 1/4" instead of 1/8" (which is typical) and it cost me around $600 for the new tank.

Now at least i have peace of mind and i dont have to carry an auxilary tank.


Mine's an 89 Tracker 20 Seacraft as well. There's a few trackers lurking here, great boat

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...2/100_0328.JPG

DonV 01-22-2013 05:22 PM

Holy moly....1/4"?? That's the "mac daddy" of all tanks!!!

drtyTshrt 01-22-2013 08:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Tanks out. Does anyone know where to get a bladder or a 70 gallon plastic? Any suggestions? I do not want to go any smaller than what came out

mrobertson 01-22-2013 09:49 PM

The problem with plastic is they aren't custom and you are condemned to the shapes and sizes that already exist, which may not work.

Assuming the tank you pulled is 72 or 74 gallons, speedy tanks will build you a new one out of 1/8" aluminum for less than $700.

Good luck whatever you decide

gofastsandman 01-22-2013 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrobertson (Post 211352)
The problem with plastic is they aren't custom and you are condemned to the shapes and sizes that already exist, which may not work.

Assuming the tank you pulled is 72 or 74 gallons, speedy tanks will build you a new one out of 1/8" aluminum for less than $700.

Good luck whatever you decide

The plans for that tank are here. Search and discover? Anyone ever contemplated forming over one in halves with epoxy? Is epoxy to be considered as a newer lifetime tank?
Cut the old tank in half longitudinally with no explosive tools??? Take half an inch out and use each half for a plug?

Just a thought.
GFS

drtyTshrt 01-23-2013 06:16 AM

My dad is a TV repairman. He has an ultimate set of tools. I can fix it. Stay tuned.

pelican 01-23-2013 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drtyTshrt (Post 211349)
Tanks out. Does anyone know where to get a bladder or a 70 gallon plastic? Any suggestions? I do not want to go any smaller than what came out



the smart play:

take the tank to a reputable builder - have a replacement made...

before installing the replacement tank - solvent clean,scuff sand the aluminum,then chemically etch prime the surfaces - epoxy barrier coat the tank - i like and recomend interprotect 2000...do not skip the chemical etch prime - fail to do it - nothing will adhere properly...

an aluminum tank,protected in this manner is "bulletproof"...

do not foam a replacment tank in place:

cut starbord strips - 1/4" is ideal -use a product called"starbond" to adhere the starboard to the hull - the tank sits on these...make up chocks,to hold the tank in place...



seen worse than that - alot worse...

Normagain 01-24-2013 02:07 AM

My factory tank had neoprene strips under. I wouldn't use Starboard, too stiff and difficult to bond. Neoprene stuck to the tank with DAP Weldwood (red can) contact cement is what my tank builder used and recommends. Some rubber will react and cause corrosion to the aluminum but neoprene is fine. In a dry (free draining) environment the aluminum will oxidize and protect itself pretty well. My tank was stamped 1974 and in great shape, I just wanted to go bigger. I know the subject is controversial but you really only need to barrier coat the aluminum if foamed in or water is trapped next to it.

Don Ferguson 02-08-2013 08:49 AM

Check out Tank Depot Pompano Beach Fl for plastic tanks of all sorts. The tank in picture is shot, anyone finding this sort of corrosion needs to replace the tank as Pelican said. Foaming a bare alum tank in can cause such corrosion. Better to chock in place as previously mentioned. As for coating alum tanks. Auto primer or zinc chromate works for me.


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