Anchor roller configuration
 

I want to add an anchor roller to my SeaCraft so that I'm not hauling the rode and ground tackle over the gunwale and scratching up the protector below the cleat all the time. I'm not planning to stow the anchor on the roller so I picked up a medium sized fairlead roller with a quick release pin.

Short of moving the bow light, I think the best location for the roller is on the port side of the bow (see photo) with a center cleat to tie off the anchor line. I'm wondering if anyone who's been down this path has any advice on placement or other considerations. TIA.

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb198885.jpg

I added one to the Contender and I love it, mostly because I put a Lewmar Profish behind it.
Works great!

My 2 cents! Remove the bow light, place the roller bracket straight off the bow, with a backing plate custom cut on the under side, that way you can leave the anchor hang in position straight off the bow so it will not wack the side of the boat when retrieving it. I'll take a picture of mine if you want. Is that a horn? As far as the light, there are many options on that.

Agreed with comments. Light goes bye-bye. New ones on port and starboard.

I supported my cantilever anchor roller with (2) 3/4" pcs of glued-up plywood under the deck. Shaped to the bow shape. I used a bottle jack to hold it place while I mounted the anchor roller and the windlass - then drilled thru... Even if you're not going to use a windlass, I'd still put the same support underneath.

Thanks -- I'll move the bow light.

What replacement lights and placement do you recommend?

Any pics would be helpful.

I have a 23' Tsunami - might be different from your boat. I bought Perko side lights ( tear drop shaped ) and mounted on a vertical part on port and starboard. Wired thru cabin.

Sorry no pix right now. You doing a windlass ?

If so, the cantilever anchor roller is perfect ! Never a problem or hangup. And for the windlass, get a lewmar - they're great. I have an older 600 series and it's been great !

I went with flat LED side lights.
You can see them below to give you an idea. Just like stated above, leave the anchor in the roller and use a lock down device/pin to secure it while not in use.

Once of the best upgrades I did to the boat and my wife is happy she no longer has to pull the anchor up.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...2&pictureid=63

I ordered some new teardrop LED lights (not quite flat - they're about 2" high) but I'm not sure where to mount them.

Based on the size, they could either go above the rubrail just aft of the bow cleats (like CT9's) or anywhere along the bow below the rubrail. I'm trying to decide what's the cleanest look and where there will be minimal opportunities for bumping the lights when docking etc.

I'd love to get some recommendations and see some more pics of other nav light placements.

I've reinforced the foredeck with a triangular section of ply glassed under the deck and I'm going to distribute the load of the anchor roller by mounting it to a section of Starboard on top of the deck (not shown in the pics below).

I'm wondering what's the best configuration for the locking pin for the anchor chain and the cleat (cleat before the pin or vice versa?). And is it best to place them all on the centerline or should the cleat go laterally on the surface above the anchor locker?

I'd appreciate any input.

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/...ps57e40083.jpg

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3159697a.jpg

Pin should go in front of the cleat. I wouldn't mount it laterally because it will create more torque on the cleat, how will you back it up, and wouldn't you constantly be hitting your knees on it?

I have a photo of Denny's (Bushwacker) setup, and the anchor pin is not in line with the roller/cleat, but off to one side. This makes sense, to keep the anchor line from chafing on the pin while anchored.
Is the Starboard under the roller necessary? Isn't the deck properly supported from underneath with the 2 triangles of 3/4" plywood?
I'm doing the same project on my '71 Seafari, but discovered the balsa core is completely shot (NO wood in a 20" diameter circle around the anchor line pipe), so I'm fixing that first (scored coosa per: Islandtrader's advice). Then I'll follow your lead, although I'll epoxy two or three 1/4" plywood triangle's underneath. I believe I'll need the flex of the 1/4" to maintain the original crown, so I'll glue them up one at a time.
Any advice welcome. Thanks.

Here's the post I made a few years ago of how I installed the anchor bracket: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...anchor+bracket

I originally had that bayonet pin arrangement but didn't like it because unless you get it installed in the EXACT right position, the anchor won't be held tight in the bracket and will rattle. I used a bungee chord to keep it tight, but that was sort of a half-ass solution; bungee chords don't hold up long to So. Fla. UV but at least the cheap rubber coated hooks didn't have much time to rust! Here's the new chain lock I recently installed that works much better . . . it's adjustable, so easy to get just the right amount of tension on chain, which also keeps chain from slapping up and down on the deck!

Bushwacker - You got a link to that tensioner?

I have one similiar that I installed on my boat but that one looks stouter with a pin. Never saw one like that. Not totally impressed with mine.

Thanks.

It's made by Lewmar, http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...7#.UZ7Lu0CTiSo Got mine from West Marine because I wanted it quick, but you might be able to find it cheaper online, etc. It's a big improvement over my original setup!

I've searched, and surprisingly, WestMarine has the best price!

The previous owner of my Seafari glassed in the anchor locker bulkhead, and the opening is small enough to limit my working access to the front of the bow deck. Yes, I can get a plywood plate up there, but slathering it with epoxy, positioning it correctly, supporting it...it'll be quite a challenge.

Someone recommended I use a piece of 1/4" aluminum as a backing plate, double the width of the roller and cleat, through bolting the roller and cleat. Wouldn't I want a larger piece of aluminum, and is this even a good idea?

Thoughts on this as a solution?

It's a be'atch to get in there no matter what. Don't know you're situation, but what I did has held up for 10 years.

I'd bust my butt to make it happen, dry fit all to perfection first. Maybe pre-drill holes thru the support wood. Use a bunch of that that really good 3M plastic velcro to hold the wood in place. Screw from underneath, thru the predrilled holes into the bottom decks balsa - but not up thru top deck. Do this in a few places. This should hold your support wood in place. Then drill thru template from the top thru the deck and the support plywood. IMPORTANT - Try to drill 90 degree holes - us a jig if you have to. Otherwise the windlass bolts go in cock-eyed and create a PITA ! From below remove 'holder screws', remove 'velcro' - slather plywood with thick epoxy or 5200 - re-drill holder screws to hold wood in place. Mount windlass with bolts/nuts. When done remove holder screws.

Tough job but once it's done it's done. Then go drink some beer to help all the aches and bruises you have. Clean your scraped and bloody forearms and fingers. Tomorrow will be a new day : )

I'm not installing a windlass. Does that change your sadistic recommendation that I need to do what you did? (can't find a smilie to go here!!!)
My plan was to duplicate bushwacker's install, straight line from roller to cleat, chain tensioner to the side. I'd think most my stress will be fore-aft, and rather far forward, right?
Thanks for the reply.

Oops sorry. Just like school - never payed much attention !

In that case - I don't know. I always err on the side of over-built. I would definitely use a back plate of some sort. For example, I'm installing a removable backrest on my i/o engine cover. Even though it's cored with balsa or ply, I'll be installing a backing plate and that's a hell of a lot less pressure than what an anchor roller will give.

Just don't know if your set-up needs to be as robust as what I did for the windlass. BTW - I love the windlass ! My set-up is awesome. I almost never have to go up on deck to clear up anything. Sure you don't want to change your mind ? I try to keep things as simple as possible - I never wanted a windlass, but the Tsunami design dictated it. Never regretted it !

With the use this boat will get, a windlass is excessive. I'm also guilty of over-building, but this time, the inconvenience of real pain in the design/install is what's slowing me down.
Thanks for the continued thoughts.

This is my set up on a 1985 20 MA