Time for a New Transom(Any shops in SWFL?)
 

1973 20' Seafari

Long story short - I drilled a few holes in the transom near the motor mount on the port side and water leaked out. Just mush and water. Whatever *#($*# attached the dive platform didn't bother using any kind of sealant when they put in the lag screws, and I was too inexperienced to notice until now.

I am debating whether to do the job myself or get it done professionally. I know I could do it, but I don't have a ton of free time these days.

Can anyone recommend a good shop in SWFL? Otherwise I might consider trailering it over to one of the shops that regularly work on SeaCrafts on the East coast.

From the posts I've read, it seems that a new transom typically runs around $1500-2000 to have a shop do it. That sound about right?

There used to be some pretty good talent up on SR 78 (Pine Island Road) I don't know who is left there anymore. The Wells boys or their dad Rob at Cabbage Key would know who you could trust.

Where in SWFL are you...that may help answer the question.

"From the posts I've read, it seems that a new transom typically runs around $1500-2000 to have a shop do it. That sound about right?"

I am curious, and you don't need to name names, but where does one get a transom done for that amount of money?
Without doing it your self.
Is that a bare transom, no engine?
I just don't see it.

I'm located in South Fort Myers - but would be willing to drive anywhere in SWFL.

As to the cost - about $2000 was what I've seen others say they were quoted. I am going to have the motor taken off by the Mercury dealer since I'm trading up to a 25" length motor. I figure I'll have them take the current motor off, get the repair work done and then bring the boat back and have them put on the new 25" motor.

Maybe he's thinking material costs for a DIY transom build

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=20915 - Granted those estimates were from 2009, but they are still around $2k(I believe he was also having some work done on the scuppers). I was focusing on the bare transom estimates, as my transom will be bare when I drop it off.

There is a shop near mine in port charlotte that seems to do good work. I asked and that sounds loke his figure on mine when i asked cost once.
Dave young
727 505 2279

This is a question for the D.I.Y's out there.
What is the material cost in re-doing your transom's?
-Plywood or composite board.
-Resin, poly, vinylester or epoxy.
-Glass mat.
-Solvents.
-Consumables cost: Rags, paper suits, sanding disc, gloves, glasses, etc.
-Tools.
-Fairing compounds.
-Gelcoat or paint.
-Fasteners.
-Hardware.

Oly makes a good point. Make sure you know what you're getting if you go with one of the low cost quotes. Not all transom jobs are created equal. There are "professional" shops out there that will throw a couple layers of roving and mat or biaxial on the outside of a couple layers of plywood, throw a couple more layers on the inside and call it done. My 25 Seafari had less than 1/8" of laminate on the inside of the transom and it was redone professionally.

What a lot of folks don't understand is that a transom is not structural plywood protected by laminate, it's structural laminate cored with plywood. Obviously, there are other core materials, but the same structural principles apply.

There are fundamental differences in cost and quality between a cored laminate and a laminated core. If you go with someone who's quoted a price less than $3K, ask him how thick the inner and outer laminates will be. If it's not at least 1/4" inside and out, walk away or get him to requote it with the original laminate schedule.

There's always the possibility that these shops have lower overhead when they're not having to rent expensive space in a metropolitan area, but I'd still make sure you get a laminate schedule in writing before you let anyone cut into your boat.

My $0.02
Dave

"If you go with someone who's quoted a price less than $3K,"

Thank you, SIR!!!!!!!!!

I've lived here all my life and sad to say there is no glass shop that I could comfortably recommend. There are a few top notch mechanics but no reliable boat yards.

Isn't Boat Haus over there?

I just got a quote from a respected place here in Fort Myers for $3600 - they said it would take around 40 hours of labor(going from the outside).

I called the guy MikeM recommended and I'm going to go see him tomorrow. He said he typically goes from the inside. We talked about some other projects he did, and he sounded like he took pride in his work and really cared about building something that was going to last. I'll see what his plan is for the transom rebuild when I meet with him.

My understanding of the requirements of a good transom job, based on what I've read in other threads and this one, is:

All old core material removed
Good quality materials used(core & resin)
1/4" thickness on the fiberglass inside & out(I'll ask for a specific schedule)
Core material & old fiberglass compressed(clamps and/or bolts/screws) when adhering them together

Anything else?

It's funny - I've spent hundreds of hours working on my boat. 12+ gallons worth of epoxy work(bow cap, deck, step down, etc.) and I have feel like the more I learn the more I realize that I don't know, haha.

"He said he typically goes from the inside."
On most of the SeaCrafts, particularly the ones with aft seats, I have NEVER understood the logic in this, perhaps someone can enlighten me-------.

Original Transom Laminate Schedule
 

Masao,

Here's some reference info to give you some idea of what the original layup looked like.

The laminate schedule for the hull listed in the 1969 Boating Magazine article on the 20' Seafari was: 1M +1M + 18R+1M+18R+1M+18R+1M+18R+1M+18R, where 1M = 1 oz. mat and 18R = 18 oz. roving. Another way to think of it is 1 layer of mat and 5 layers of 1801 with the mat side facing the gel coat. Total hull thickness was 0.221" and I think this would apply to the outside of the transom as well as the hull, since it was layed up at the same time. That works out to about 0.040" per layer of 1801 if you figure the gel coat thickness and first layer of mat was about 0.021". It doesn't say what the laminate schedule was for the inside of the transom was. We used 3 layers 1708 on the inside of the transom on Skip & Carla's 21, and I think we got about 1/16" (0.0625") per layer. so the 8 oz mat must make that stuff a little thicker than 1801.

After Don Herman installed the bracket on my boat, I drilled a 1.5" hole in my original transom to install an overflow for the under-seat bait well, since the original baitwell inlet/outlet was covered up by the flotation tub on the Hermco bracket. I kept the plug from that hole and just took a look at it with a vernier caliper, so here's what I came up with thickness for each layer:

The outer skin thickness of this core, including the gel coat, measures about 0.25". There were two layers of 3/4" plywood (which were totally dry - confirming Don's comment that it was the driest transom he had ever seen in a 34 year-old boat!), and then the inside layer of glass appeared to be about 0.190" thick, or maybe 5 layers of 1801. (Makes technical sense to me that Moesly would specify the same laminate schedule on each side of the transom core from an engineering perspective.) There is then a layer of about 0.190" of Potter putty and then the baitwell glass, which I think is chopper gun layup, that is about 0.110" thick. Hope this helps! Denny

I done a couple of em. I likey the outside. By far the easiest and fastest way to do one. :D

I've only done one....mine, which I poured with Arjay. Ditto on Don's assessment! I used the old skin and the fairing was not difficult. Good luck!

That is very nice Don, I am glad I am not the only one sniffing the resin. :-)

:p

Rob was in the shop the other day. He's Mr. Realtor now :)

I could recommend Chris Hunter -- West Coast Fiberglass. He's in Englewood. Nice, honest and knowledgeable. He'll be doing the work on mine. 561 236 6339.

I thought he was back into boats?

He's at Sara Bay Real Estate now. He seems quite happy not being in the itch anymore. His main guy (Bill?) is still doing fiberglass work, though.

I am really kicking myself for not re-doing the transom when I repowered in the fall. I bought a brand new 115 Optimax Pro XS.

Mercury dealer says $1600 to extend it to 25" and still keep the remainder of the 5 year warranty it came with. (alternative would be to find a way to extend it cheaper and risk voiding the warranty)

Trading up to a 25" 125HP(the 115 Pro XS doesn't come in 25" length) would cost $2700.

I am debating whether or not to raise the transom 5". I know it's a safety issue, but to date I haven't had any real issues with water coming over the cut-out. (We don't back down fish because we really only spearfish)

I guess I'm wondering what your guys' thoughts are. Is it worth it to spend an extra $1600+ to have a 25" transom?

Does the transom need to be done? Regardless of height----.

Yes, I would say so. As I stated in my original post - a lot of wet peatmoss coming out of holes and water weeping out. There are also stress cracks on the inside of the splashwell.

Currently, there isn't really any flex when I try to bounce the motor - BUT - I do not want to let it get that bad/ risk it. We spearfish and hopefully will be running it hard this summer, so I would rather put it out of commission now(before Grouper opens).

So besides the cost of the transom, you have the extension. Hmmmmmmm.
In the long run, you are better off with a 25" transom, besides safety, resale, etc.
I guess what I am saying is, If you did the transom, do it 25".

I have the same thing going on with my 1977 20CC
She flipped over at the dock this past weekend and it might be time to get the transom redone before I invest in another 150. Old motor Yamaha 150 2 stroke
Has anyone put a 150 yamaha 4 stroke on one of the Potter's with the scupplers in the floor. I was wondering if she would sit to low in the water.
I am in SC and will need someone to do the work for me

I have, she will sit low.

Did you redo your scuppers in the back of the boat. I have been running the boat for over 6 years and the only thing we have replaced is the gas tank and little stuff. While she is down should I try and check the stringers and other stuff or is that just opening a can of worms I want to use it again this summer