New To Me 1974 Seacraft CC
 

I just picked up my a 23 Seacraft CC. The boat has a 1995 200 yamaha. The issue with the boat is it has been sitting stored inside with NO USE at all for over 5 years. The boat has been stored inside in a garage 95 percent of its life so cosmetically its in good shape. It has all the original teak, the transom has been replaced several years ago and is still solid. The floors are all solid. I was just wondering what this thing is worth in todays market? Can anyone give me any ideas? Thanks,

Dave congrats on your new boat !!! if its sat for that long hopefully they "pickelled" it before putting her away the last time. Letting a qualified mechanic give her a good once over and a new water pump I would think would be a good idea. value? that goes all over the board

Value?? What did you pay for it? I guess that's it's value? You trying to "flip" it because you got a really good deal or you wanting to spend the right amount of money to make it a usable classic??

Well I do not think he "pickled it", I think the previous owner just stored it inside and left it. I did however, put a battery on it and tilted the motor up, and hit the key and it turned over. Didnt try to start it, I want to do a compression test on it. Could I do that without hurting anything since it has been sitting for so long?

Don, Id just like to know what others have paid for such a boat. Kinda wanna know I didn't pay to much.

[QUOTE=davidjor;217002] . . . Could I do that without hurting anything since it has been sitting for so long? QUOTE]

I don't like to ever run the water pump impeller dry, even during a compression check, but that impeller has been sitting so long that it's probably taken a set, so it should be changed anyway before you start using the boat. So crank away, but then change out that water pump afterwards! I'd change the upper gearcase seal below the water pump too while you're in there.

You won't get true compression numbers on a cold engine.

Ok then, so I am guessing I should do the following before i try and start it.

1. Change impeller
2. Change Plugs
3. Lubricate each cylinder with "mystery oil"
4. Use an external gas tank with plenty of oil mixture
5. Charge Battery
6. Turn Key, and hope for the best..

am i missing anything?

You can do a compression test on a cold engine; the absolute pressure readings will just be a little lower than on a warm engine (make sure the throttle is open to get max pressure). I'd be inclined to do that first just to make sure that the basic powerhead is reasonably healthy. Don't worry about hooking up flushing attachment for the compression test if you're gonna change the WP impeller anyway. What you're really looking for, typically, is to see if one cylinder is a lot lower than the others, indicating a scored cylinder, stuck rings, bad head gasket, etc., so you'll be focused on the relative difference between cylinders rather than the absolute pressure readings. The less variation there is between cylinders the smoother the engine will run; hopefully nothing over 10% but ideally 5% or less.

And after you've changed the water pump impeller, make sure it's getting water anytime you crank the engine. After you drop the lower unit and pull off the old water pump, take it to a local dealer you buy the water pump kit from to see if they'll do a pressure and vacuum test on it for a nominal fee to verify that the driveshaft and propshaft seals are ok! Then you'll know all is well before you put it back together.

While you have the plugs out and getting ready to check the compression and putting the marvel oil in the cyl's it wouldn't hurt to spray some into the carbs while turning it over to lube the bearings that have been sitting for so long

Do I remove all the plugs while doing the text, or just one at a time. I have read multiple scenarios. Just wanna do it right..

Pull all the plugs and open the throttle so you don't have a pressure drop through the carb/throttle body. I always crank motor with the ignition off, i.e., leave ignition key off, and just use a remote starter switch to connect battery cable at solenoid to the small terminal that actuates solenoid.

There are other concerns that have been mentioned. One of the things I like about running premix is you are almost fogging the motah at idle on the muffs. All of your gaskets and seals are dry now. Rings, cylinders, and roller bearings as well. Dry is unhappy and possibly rusty as well. Get a good atomizing spray bottle and open the carbs. Drop the trailer tongue and tilt the motah all the way up. Fill the bottle with marvel and crank the motah. Shoot the intakes for a good while with no spark. Get her good and wet. Let her sit so the gaskets can swell and loosen any corrosion to soften the effects of hibernation.

"Get her good and wet."

GFS....please!!! Be careful, this is a family forum! :eek:

I don`t sleep with my boat. Sometimes inside her though. Sometimes it`s just phone sex.
Vhf of course. We all have sordid thoughts which involve fiberglass and sex. I`ll take sand anytime over fiberglass.

Look at Bones, he has maybe 10 children from different mothers. If DCF would wake up and crunch numbers, they would find that a boat can support a house, but houses have a hard time supporting boats.