if it BOUT THE Same as a 20 (looks like mine) but you want to narrow it why do you want to switch I have the sliding doors but couls easily switch and get rid of them

This console came out of a 23' Seacraft.... I have seen this exact same similar consoles that came in some 20' Seacrafts....

I would have to measure and get you the exact measurements, but in comparison to the console that is already in my 20' Seacraft, this one has a panel that comes up higher to allow for a flush mounting of the electronics.....the console that is in it now has about a 4" rise that has switches and gauges in it, but nothing big enough to mount a nice Garmin or Simrad unit in it.

But the console pictured, is about 4" wider and 6" longer than the console that is already in my boat. That is why I plan on narrowing it by about 6" to give me plenty of walk around room in the boat......

If you have this same similar console, I would be curious to hear the measurements of your console.

Thought this was Interesting.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-livewell.html

It seems that they put this taller console in the more newer Seacrafts......all the ones that I have seen with this same similar console were the more newer like 80' model Seacrafts.

I can get you number after work tomorrow

mine
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...h_93cfe454.jpg
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...h_4c8fc529.jpg

That would be awesome!! I would like to compare them with the measurements of the console that I have. I like the way your console fits in your boat and would probably replicate the measurements.

Thats what i am shooting for but no doors unless i make a full drop with actuater.... and i am going a bit higher... I am only 5'8" but i want to mount 2 screens and still have room for guages and switch's.. really like the drop window idea... might have to check into actuators.. ;)

Was curious to know if you ever got to get those measurements of your console??

fond you a surprise on Half Truth ...
http://www.thehulltruth.com/parts-fo...t-hardtop.html
ready to go ... T top included !!!!!!! wish i had the coin !!!! and something to think about in the short future !

Yea, I have seen that console and t-top for sale. I'm actually going to have a local guy, Eagle Bob with Eagle Towers in Mobile, AL build me a t-top. Ill see if I can drum up a picture of the same similar top he built a friend of mine.

Roger that !!!! we have several top builders over here... but they all have very high opinions of their work ... and the price to match !!!!! the console set up is similar tto what i want to do with mine though.... not sure im digging the door ... but like the height

The t-top ill have built for mine will be similar to this t-top on on a bit more smaller scale. This is a friend of mines T-Top.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-39.jpg

Beautiful work Just how proud of there work are they?

thats the guy that had R and R buid that 23 bay boat... that thing was insame... never saw it with the T Top !! did it finally sell ??

Yea, this is on my friend Hussein's boat... This is the t-top on his 27' Conch... He does have the 23' Seacraft that Conch reworked into their 25 Conch. It don't have a t-top and is still for sale.

I have the same console in my '83 20. It measures 39" wide at the base, not counting the flange at the bottom.
Dave

gotcha... thought that was the Seacraft because of the console.. and you are right ...to add a top like that you will have to BEEF up the sides of the console... I am thinking about something similar bnut mine will have to be tied into the back of my leaning post to support the wieght of the 50's and possible the short center rigger..
Can you get a shot of the front of the console ?? that looks like how i want my setup.. looks like2 7 " screens... and then a width at the console..
Never mind... i was looking at it better and can tell they are larger than 7's..

Thanks for the measurement. Ill have to compare that to the console that I have. Do you have the length of it??

Also, do you have any pictures of your console?? Or whole 20' Seacraft as well??

I've got a (single armstrong) bracket and a Yamaha f150 on my 1977 master angler. It rides beautifully. Also have an oversized 23 SC console. Both batteries are set as far forward as they can go in the console. Gas tank also moved forward a bit (50 gallon).

I think the f150 actually weighs more than the f200 by about 40#. The trick is to have and use your trim tabs, at least that works on my hull. Mine will go through just about anything in the high teens low 20s. But she's no speed demon. I sold a low 60s twins center console for a low 40s 20'. I miss the speed I won't lie. Curious to hear your numbers, I think there's somebody with that setup already (cayman boy maybe?, parker yacht on THT) and he loves it.

Saw your contender for sale on THT, it was a sexy boat, I can only imagine how nice this one is going to come out.

39" at the base console. Top was raised for flush mounting electronics. I'm with you all the way, there is no other way to mount them. Little snug on the sides, I can take a measurement if you want.

Edit- I was able to get out and drown some mullet for a few hours today. I put my size 11 flip flop (no tape measure) across inside of the gunnel to the rear support leg for t top, made it a little past the thong. I'd estimate about 10" of clearance. I go sideways to get around.

Sorry you guys.... I haven't gotten to post much progress on the boat as I have been putting new lap hardy siding on my house and doing some painting. I'm pretty much finished on all of that now, so I can focus on the boat.

Here are a few snap shots of what I got done this evening just messing around for an hour or so....

Removed the console and t-top to expose the fuel tank panel and removed it.... It was soaking wet..
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-40.jpg

Cut out the splash well and side storage box and bilge access..... Notice the full sheet of plywood sticking out the back of where I made my cut. I think someone has been into this boat once before.... Also, the box stringers appear to have already been raised 4" compared to others that have torn theirs down with box stringers in them.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-41.jpg
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-42.jpg

Thanks for the reply!! I measured my 23' Seacraft console tonight... It measures 39" x 54". I think I am going to try to narrow and shorten it a bit to match the stock size console.... I still want to have a good bit of walk around room on the boat.

I am curious as to how far forward you moved your fuel tank. I plan on at least a 70 gallon tank. Also, my plan is to relocate my batteries to underneath the console as well as far forward in the console as I can get them.

I too am coming from a high 50's 25' Center console and moving to a smaller boat. I do like speed as well and will try to get as much speed out of this hull as I possibly can. I'm just more interested in a smaller easier to pull and maintain boat at a fraction of the cost of both of my Contenders. This boat should do everything that I want and need it to do.

I only have 50 gallons, but Ill try and see if I can find dimensions on the tank. At the very least I will be able to get you a number pulling from inside the transom to where the back of the tank starts.

One thing to remember, especially going from big boat to small boat, is with the wide console and an enclosure, you stay a lot dryer at the helm than with a skinny console. The thing I don't like About wide console is no rod holders on side of console.

Edit, I measured the walk through today, its 10.25".

Made a little more progress today...

Cut the floor out.... It was soft and soaking wet. Appears that someone has already been into the boat one time before...
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-43.jpg

Appears that someone already raised the floor over the stock box stringers.... Am I correct on this or was this factory built like this??
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-44.jpg

Removed lots of foam...
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-45.jpg

Started coring the transom... It was soaking wet and rotted!!!
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-46.jpg
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-47.jpg

The boat looks like a virgin to me. The stringers look factory and I can see the cabosil from the factory. Good thing you are re-doing it the way the transom looks if you go with a bracket like you said earlier in one of your posts. Get rid of all that foam it's unnecessary and adds weight to the boat and traps moisture. The stringers are foam filled and that provides enough flotation should you swamp which probably will never happen. Your gonna love that boat when it's all finished :)

strick

I think you're right about that boat being previously molested! I've never seen that much foam in a Potter hull! Potter did raise the deck at some point, I thought about '74 or 75. How deep were the little wells around the vertical scuppers?

If they look like the one below on my '72, about 1" deep, it doesn't have the raised deck. If the scupper well is 2-3" deep, it had the raised deck from the factory.

The boat has definitely been touched before... There are 2x4 pieces of wood all around the perimeter of the hull just under the gunnel where the floor was resting. In the wood were wood screws. Also, the forward box stringers were cut open and exposing foam. There were also cutting wheel cuts that run the length of the box stringers that wasnt caused by me since I cut out around close to the edge of the gunnel walls.

There was also a half sheet of raw plywood sitting up underneath the floor when I did pull it up.

Oh, and the scuppers were about 3-4" deep.


I was wondering about the foam... Sit it is ok to run the boat with the foam filled stringers only??? I'd definitely like to keep all of that extra foam out if the rebuild if I can.

You would have also thought there would have been some sort of rear bulkhead to enclose the fuel tank. All that was separating it from the bilge area was a large block of raw foam you see in the pictures I posted.

My dad and I getting more done on the Seacraft....Coring the transom.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-48.jpg

Transom cored!!! Just have to hit it with a flapper wheel and smooth everything thing up in preparation for the new transom.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-49.jpg
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-50.jpg

If the stringer tops are cut into and not correctly capped, then they are a lot weaker than stock. It is hard to tell from the photo. If they have been hacked, then you will want to address that. (edit: you said they might have been raised already?)

If done properly, you can grit blast fiberglass rather than sanding for prep. But just like sanding, there is a lot of vacuuming and other prep. But way faster for rough/uneven surfaces.

My suggestion for raising the floor is to use pultruded fiberglass tubing rather than 2x4s. It is straight, strong, light, inexpensive and rot proof. And you can use for wire routing. I hold my fuel tanks in with it where rotten 2x4s were.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-hollow-bars/=oimc42

I have a different opinion about how much foam the boats need. But it is a matter of philosophy. Or maybe bad math on my part. My 20 footer has enough to not sink, even with a full tank and a gaping hole. It is a lot of foam. A pretty unlikely scenario.

I think next time I will go with block/sheet polyethylene or polypropylene foam.

On my 74, the forward section of my box stringers were cut and the boat was factory. I had less foam on the sides than you do, it was done well, sloped so water would drain which entered through the gunnels. That foam block behind the fuel tank does give some structure to the boat even though there is nothing on either side, IMO.

this brings back some realy itchy memories!

I got a chance to work on the boat a little bit this evening... Cut out the side inner liner and removed the front deck.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-51.jpg

Just when I thought that I had the transom completely ground and sanded down, I noticed a small area running along the very bottom of the transom skin that looked like it was delaminating. Stuck a pry bar into the delamination and sure enough, it started peeling off in sheets. So I worked on removing the top layer of glass that was probably added when the boat was tore into once before. http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-52.jpg

(Left Transom Side)... It tore off in sheets for a min, but then I had to resort to grinding the stuff that actually stuck pretty good down to the original glass. Notice the nice large woven glass.
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-53.jpg

Left side done... Still have the right side to do. LOTS of grinding!!!
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-54.jpg

What is the concensus on how many inches to raise the floor??

That's why I like epoxy for transom work! Much higher bond strength with old glass!

Oh I will definitely be using EPOXY!!

My 20' which has an f150 and an Armstrong bracket was raised 5". Its a good height and self bails. Yours is a master angler too right?

Two inches should be plenty. Any higher and you will feel like your in a bass boat.

strick

I agree. I have a stock floor 1975 Master Angler. With the taller cap. it doesn't break your knees, and you are a lot less likely to fall out.

It self bails at the dock with a "small" 370lb 4 stroke, and a 4 stroke kicker (58lb) on the transom, and a wet transom, at that.
The batteries are under the console, and the tank is, too.

It floods an aft corner with two guys leaning over the outboards landing a fish.

WOW,
I'm looking at mine, the same year & boat covered in my backyard. I've always been a firm believer if your going to do something do it right. GREAT job to date thanks for posting all the pix's, they will be so helpful once I start. Have you keep any log regarding time spent on your build ?

Thanks!! Be glad to check out your rebuild too.....

I havent been keeping an EXACT tally on time spent, but I think that is a good idea....I think that I will start doing that from here on out.

Just a rough estimate how much time I have in it right now......maybe somewhere between 12-15 hours. That is from the time I started pulling the motor off of the boat until where it is at right now.

Don't forget to add in Dad's time as well...no cheating here on CSC :)

strick