Classic 1978 center console 18' SF
 

Looking to restore/repair/replace deck and transom on my 1978 SeaCraft 18SF located in Key West. Boat is in excellent overall shape, but the deck was replaced about 10 yrs ago and was not sealed or glassed on the bottom, and now has major soft spots.

If transom needs to be replaced, is there a benefit in terms of ride to staying at 20in, or should I bring it up to 25in? Boat has a manual jack plate. After I re-powered from 1999 Johnson 150 to a new Etec 150, the transom seems to be having trouble with the weight, or more likely the power, of the new motor and is slightly bowing (curving) out. Slightly, but it's noticeable. The new motor is 20in, so if I bring the transom up, that will have to be addressed...

I saw Garrison Bight Marina in the background of some of trader's pics and wonder if anyone can recommend a boat builder or glass repair shop to perform this work in Key West/Lower Keys.

Thank you for your help. :)

Cuzzy

I would raise it to 25" which is what I will be doing. With the 20" transom, the motor sits mighty low in the water. The hydraulic steering and all the rigging wires and cables are under water in the splashwell while fishing, (me at the helm and 1 fishing buddy in the back fighting fish. The biggest problem is with the center of gravity being that far back, mine falls off plane around 2800-3000 rpm. Good luck with it and post lots of pics.

Thanks, Uncleboo. Water getting in the splashwell (then potentially into the bilge if there's any leaks around the insert) while fishing, and also while at rest is why I want to raise the transom, as well as potentially bringing the bottom motor mounting bolts above the water line.

In my experience with this hull planing at various rpm is more a function of prop than anything else, ymmv.

As soon as this wind dies down I will have them pull it off the rack for me. Pics to follow...

Definitely raise it to 25". Bottom bolts will still be in the water tho.

I did an 18 12 years ago. We still own her- for now. Offspring has grown much bigger- need more space- moving into the 23' when she is complete, and putting the 18' up for adoption. Put a solid motor well wall of poly up 9" sealed tight with two drain checks for the deck. Yamaha 130 on a 20" transom tilted clears fine. From blue water experience, I'd stick with the 20" motor's lower center of gravity------ Put plugs in the transom drain sleeves, sealed the bilge access, installed a Rule 2000 with float with all the time power in the motor well. Over the transom water gets pumped back overboard very quickly- drilled two 3/4" drain holes at the aft corners of the deck straight into the bilge to drain casual water that gets on the deck, with plugs to put in on the rare occasions that I want to. installed two Rule 2000 pumps with ultra safety switches in the bilge with big dash indicator lights; powered by a Group 27 dual purpose battery for each pump (2 total) forward under the console. Set up a high water alarm with a float switch and a car alarm (they never fail). Put an isolated solar panel on the T top to keep the batteries topped off. This set up lived in the water full time for 5 years. I have many times been out in "what the heck am I doing out here" conditions fishing, and the set up has worked very well. My family has gone all over the place in the Bahamas with it, including crossing more than twice alone on her own bottom: I'd highly recommend it.

Bill, thank you for sharing your first-hand experience. Many of the comments on csc notwithstanding, I am leaning toward keeping the 20" motor for the reason you stated. I think I can raise the transom to 21 or 22" and set the 20" motor to the lowest mounting position.

I have what looks like the original motor well wall/insert (just the bottom, not the top cover) that I will probably glass in or otherwise seal. I will most likely remove the manual jack plate, but it looks like there is plenty of clearance for the 150 etec.

Bringing the boat to Spencer's for assessment and recommendation after next week.

I redid the transom in my 1975 18SF last winter, and kept the 20" transom.
I goosed it up a little (an inch or two) when I was laminating, so I guess it's a 22" transom. Motor (merc 115 2 -stroke) still fits fine with room to go down one set of holes if need be.
No regrets.

Finally, got the boat over to Spencer's boat yard this weekend. We'll go through it on Monday and come up with a plan of attack.

Some pics:

Hey, got any specs on your bimini?
Looks like a nice 4 bow with stainless steel tubing?
Just what I want for my 18SF here on the Cape!

Did it come with the boat, or did you purchase it later?
Brand? Dimensions?

My neighbor gave it to me, AWESOME. :) He replaced two of these on his large boat with a permanent top.

It is perfect, plenty of head room even for tall guys, and large enough that you can stow it fore or aft and it doesn't interfere with the walkaround. I will try to get you the specs this week.

Nice looking boat. Ill bet it moves pretty good with that 150. I also really like the Bimini and would be interested in the specs on it. Also what is the story with the motor well. Did you make the box or buy it? Really nice.

The etec 150 is just right for this boat, great fuel economy (without the extra weight of a four stroke), and cruises comfortably at 30mph @ 3,200 rpm with a full load and the top up! Does a bit better with the top down and/or lighter load.

The motor well insert looks original, though it may be a reproduction. It was on there when I bought the boat.

Began demo last week. We have the jack plate/motor off, the gunnel inserts out and the console up. Pictures soon.

I will get specs on the top asap.

Some pics showing the damage on olds deck and transom

Got the transom and deck cut out. Will keep the transom at 20" and keep the jack plate.

Do your self a favor and go to a 25 inch transom...
You will thank me later...

And get that tank out, test/replace, and mount w/no foam.

concur with 25 inch transom and no foam fuel tank. Also those are some serious gobs of potter putty on there. looks like they were not squished down to much during fabrications. when i did mine, it wall pretty squished. interesting... love see rebuild pics and not posting them this winter.

Yeah, interesting. Looks like the floor was just above the putty, only a few spots where it actually made contact.

Yes the putty was not squished down. When the deck was replaced by previous owner about 10yrs ago, they staged it on top of the previous edge leaving a 1 inch gap from the deck to the stringers. :( this gap was evident when walking on the deck. We will replace with foam core deck with a nice crown attached evenly and consistently to the stringers which are in excellent shape :)

Laminating new transom
 

Laminating the new transom prepping the stringers. Close up of prepped transom show screw pattern. Screw's will be used from the inside and outside to draw laminate together and squeeze out air.

Fuel tank, transom, and the beat goes on...
 

Fuel tank is good. No leaks, no oxidation. 50 gal capacity, custom 3/16" welded aluminum. The tank was sealed with zinc chromate prior to installation so foam should be ok to use (though I do prefer coal tar epoxy...)

On a separate note, I have received lot's of feedback on raising the transom, both for and against. The main reason I chose to maintain the 20" transom, besides preserving the classic design, is keep the center of gravity lower = better ride. Can anyone provide a persuasive argument for raising the transom to 25"?

Plywood is in.

Dry fitting deck
 

Dry fitting the plywood template for the new deck. Fiberglass tube for clean access to the chase and keeping water out.

Bimini top measurement
 

Was able to get access to measure the Bimini top today. The canvas is Sunbrella. 8 years of Florida summers and it still looks new!

Nice!

So just to confirm, thats 77.5" between the uprights and approx 65-66" for height?
If you get a chance how long is the canvas when its fully open fore and aft?
And thats a four bow right?

If this doesn't bother you, then proceed as you planned. Good luck!

Uncleboo, thanks for sharing your advice and experience. Perhaps there is a difference in how our 18s are rigged and/or transoms configured, but I have not had any of the issues you describe. Fishing blue water with over 1,200 pounds of guys and gear on board the rigging stays dry and my hydraulic steering is above water. This may be due to the jack plate I use. I will get closeup shots of my transom and rigging to better illustrate.

Zachary, that's correct 77.5" between and 66" tall. I will confirm the width measurement today making sure the uprights are not squeezed or spread. Bear in mind the 1978 18sf has wider gunnels than earlier models so you may need an inch or two wider Bimini frame to depending on your configuration. I will also get you the open measurement.

I'm very interested in seeing your pics. I'd like to see one of the stern with the motor all the way down and one from the side. May just give me some ideas. Thanks!

They do?!
That's a weird production change. Wonder why...
I already thought the gunnels on my 1975 were pretty wide.
Interesting factoid nonetheless.

Anyway, thanks for the measurements!

Zachary, I will measure the gunnels just to be sure. The actual width of the Bimini top is 77" not 77.5". Stainless steel frame, 4 bow, maker unknown. Sunbrella canvas.

Checked, sanded and sealed the tank with zinc chromate. Reinstalled tank with new lines and removed old wet foam.

Refilled and capped rear of stringers that had been cut-out and left open before!

Outer skin laminated in transom.

Here's some "before" pic of the transom. Cropped kind of tight, but you can see everything is well above water line. I will get some after shots with a wider angle view...

The trade off with the 18 is the deck is very low, basically at the water line. The positive of this is that the 20" transom leaves about as much above the water line as a 25" transom does on many bigger boats. If I had a 20, 21, 23 or larger I would definitely raise or enclose the transom.

Tight lines

18' SeaCraft | 2021 Update
 

I haven't posted in "awhile" lol...

We ended up replacing the deck, replacing the transom, replacing all of the rigging and electrical, rebuilding the stringers, sealing the fuel tank with epoxy paint, installing new Garmin, installing JL audio marine speakers with a JBL Bluetooth head unit and amp, adding 4 additional rod holders, adding under gunwale rod storage racks, rebuilding the hydraulic steering (with new lines), and replacing the helm. Here's some pictures:

18' SeaCraft | 2021 Update pt. 2
 

Since completing the repairs and upgrades mentioned below, she's offered 8 years of pure enjoyment. This year it was time to continue the process...

More photos
 

It was time for a fresh coat of paint

More photos...
 

This one didn't attach before