23' cc FATCAT rehab......
 

Alright, so the process has started. Originally was just going to clean up and repaint. The guy doing the work forgot to tell me his building was repo'd by the landlord due to non-payment (and my boat was inside, completely apart on a trailer with flat tires). So here I am with a completely disassembled boat and a lot of work. Looking through all the threads has made me want to continue the project myself so here it is......Fortunately, the work that has been done seems to have been done well. The exterior has been sanded and primed several times and may be only a few steps away from final coating. Unfortunately, none of the thru-hull penetrations were filled in this process so that is the first step. I have also decided to convert it to an outboard so I will need to glass-in the keyhole through the stern. Hopefully the weather will start to cooperate and I will post more pics as work progresses. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

You can Do it!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk

btw.....any one need an engine cover with a seat cushion? and was thinking about powdercoating the gas tanks or is there a better suggestion?

I would coal tar the tank instead of powder coating.
Coal tar has some flexibility and if you get a crack in the powder coat it will make the corrosion of the tank that much worse.
I personally used Dave Pascoe's method to install all my tanks.

http://www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm

so I found a pic in my file of some lower transom work that was done......

the problem is this.......I have removed the rear cap and noticed some delamination in the upper half of the transom and the inner glass work as well as the two layers of wood. if I remove the transom, is it going to be difficult based on the previous work done? suggestions?

looks like I got a lot of recoring to do also.......

Btw..... Thanks Parrot for the recommendation for coal tarring the tanks.... Got it on order and will be on the short list! Thanks!

finally had a day to work on removing engine stringers....

these each weighed approx. 50 lbs. both were totally saturated

removed some poor glass work as well

may be hard to see but some laminated wood mounting block was poorly done. when I cut this one open water poured out!

on a better not, this is a section of the decking....solid!

started cutting out the decking and foam....the floor is soling but I wanted to check out the foam to see how wet it was and to really get a good idea as to the integrity of the flooring....and to install some chases to run the new rigging

surprisingly, the foam was bone dry.....no signs of moisture

unfortunately not much progress but did cut out the stringers where they attached to the transom...only sign of moisture was around the drain....notice the black marks where the drain was

when I cut out part of the center/ keel stringer it was saturated but solid...if there is such a thing. should I be worried? the lower pic shows the section of keel stringer I removed. again, it is solid but not mush. Thoughts?

I think it isn't that big of a problem - I remember reading a thread here where someone discussed this - IIRC the thought was that the glass on the center stringer is thick enough that the wood is not really needed for strength - it could be a hollow stringer and work just fine. Based on that, I just let mine dry out when I discovered the same thing - wood fine but pretty damp and very thick glass.

thanks for the input Flexpat....that's kinda what I was thinking too....

Fatcat had the same issue with my I followed it back maybe 18" or so where I found clean dry wood ?cut it on a 45 and potter puddled a new PC back in and reglassed it Back in

thanks, I have it cut back about 14" now and I think going leave it open, then glass in a support on top of the stringer back to the transom. that way water wont sit on either side and I can relocate the drain to the center. someone else on here did that and it seemed like a pretty goo idea

here is what I was thinking.....saw this in another thread....

I also done mine this way so I can get the drain in the middle. I also left enough room so I can sit a bilge pump under it and pick up from the lowest possible spot.

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