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-   -   Bunk trailer setup (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=26625)

SC204 07-18-2014 06:51 AM

Bunk trailer setup
 
I have my 20cc on a roller trailer right now. The trailer is getting rusty and I don't want to be around when things need repairing. I rebuilt my old trailer to go with bunks. A few questions. IS there anything special as to where the bunks should be placed on the hull bottom? What wood is used for the bunks here in the NE? Any help would be appreciated.

JohnC 07-18-2014 07:26 AM

If the bunks are a little wider than the hull steps they will cause the hull to self-center when you pull it onto the trailer. The height of the skids at the front and back is important also. You want it high enough that the keel does not drag along the trailer frame when loading/unloading but low enough to float on and load easily. The front will be a little higher than the back because the dead-rise at the bow is more than at the stern. I have one (maybe 2, cant remember) keel roller near the back to get the bow pointed uphill before the hull makes contact with the skids, that helps.
If you have a trailer shop near you it may be good to let them do it or you could put it together and pay them a little to give it a once over before you put the boat on. Even then I would bring some tools to the ramp at a time when it isn't too busy. Put the boat on and off a few times and make any adjust needed. I did that with mine and it was well worth it. I just drive the boat up to the winch mast and tighten it up. My winch strap has never been unwound more than about 6 inches.
If you are in salt water use as much stainless and aluminum parts as you can. The extra $$ is an illusion! Stuff that doesn't rust is actually cheaper in the long run.

wattaway2 07-18-2014 09:18 AM

With my old 20sf trailer I put in a extra set of bunks not so much for suport but to act as a guide the outside set extended out further than the inside kinda forming a V to help guide the boat . Originally the distance from the roller and the bunks was enough that I could stick the bow between them if a running tide made it interesting to stick it on the trailer. It was a lot quicker to do it alone at a very busy ramp down here

Mikem8560 07-18-2014 02:04 PM

I just set up a used bunk trailer for my 20sf, the rear bunk were a bit wider then the then the steps at the rear but the front was right on the steps

later I can measure the bunk length high and width front and back ..

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Dilligaf 07-19-2014 05:29 PM

is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

BigLew 07-19-2014 10:52 PM

White Oak on edge for the bunks. Pretty much the best thing after teak($$$$$). Be sure to include synthetic carpet (Astro-Turf) and Teflon skid strips. Plenty of ventilation so they can dry out between dunking's.

Mikem8560 07-20-2014 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dilligaf (Post 229392)
is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

yes there is

SC204 07-20-2014 04:13 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I went to a local sawmill and asked about having some bunks custom cut(4x10) They said either red oak or pine. He said the red oak would rot quicker which I found odd. Did not ask about white oak(prob expensive) I have also heard Hemlock is good to use. I plan on borrowing boat stands to make this happen and do it on land so I can cut the bunk angle to match the hull where the bunks will sit. Don't want to have to fuss with it later.

flyingfrizzle 07-21-2014 07:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
On the last trailer I rebuilt I had some beams given to me from under a bridge that was being replace near my house that were 6x14" salt treated. I cut them down about 8" tall and then cut them on an angle to match the seacraft 20's hull panel. I made some brackets from 4" flat bar that clap on so there were no holes to drill in the trailer and that also allow them to be adjusted. They work well and will last for ever. I have seen people also use 2 2x8"s screwed together and stood on end and they worked well also but an oak beam is better if you can find one at a reasonable price.

Attachment 7771

flyingfrizzle 07-21-2014 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigLew (Post 229411)
Four by is over kill. Hemlock may not take kindly to the through-bolting to the U-brackets. Three by or doubled two by is more than sufficient. If you want you can sleeve the through bolts.

Talk to a trailer manufacturer and see what they use. Just ask questions, they'll answer and then you will know what the pros use.

It's 20' and probably less than 4500# loaded and soaking wet, and hopefully with keel rollers.

Four by is over kill but the purpose of the wider board is so that it spreads out the contact to the bottom of the boat surface. The wider it is the less load that is being applied to the bottom of the boat in that area. The more you can spread the load out the better it is on the hull,

wattaway2 07-21-2014 07:45 PM

Back a few yrs doing some cargo blogs around imam airport the big switch gear came in on mahogany or teak ruff sawn boards hard to believe but someone used them for trailer bunks (this time not me) helps to keep your eyes open sometimes

wattaway2 07-21-2014 07:49 PM

Looking into a new double axle trailer understand a few manufactures are using cypress for bunks not cheap but I would think a great choice

uncleboo 07-22-2014 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLexpat (Post 229412)
4x10s provide a lot of flotation if they are very long. If it a float-on style trailer, be careful that you don't have a trailer that floats when you are trying to load the boat on it - makes for challenges. I learned the hard way.

I used juniper....man does that baby float! Almost as good as the boat!!!:-p

Mikem8560 07-23-2014 09:44 AM

Is this on an aluminum trailer? I replaced the ruster steel cradle i beams on my boat lift with aluminum beams. So light. The wood bunks made it float i had to weight it down

BigLew 07-23-2014 07:57 PM

I need to apologize to everyone regarding my comment that 4 by is overkill. I was looking at all of the pictures of trailer bunks posted in this thread. (each used timbers on edge.)

Four by tens on face makes sense up to a point. The same could be accomplished using two by PT product backed by two by, also PT. Whether or not PT is acceptable in this application is probably a question of state regulation. I believe the point of excessive buoyancy is a real consideration.

Again, my apologies to anyone who took offense at my comment or its tone. I meant no offense.

BigLew 07-23-2014 08:10 PM

I would like to apologize to everyone regarding my comments regarding the use of four x timbers in this application. All of the bunks shown in the pictures of this thread are timbers on edge. Using a timber with its face to the hull makes a lot of sense.

Personally, I would investigate the feasibility of using pressure treated lumber and building a bomb of two x 8-10 with two by four or six ribs for backing. It is probably a question of local regulation. I would also advised not totally encapsulating the wood in Astro-turf. This would be to ensure that the wood actually dries out between dunkings.

Again my apologies to any one I may have offended.

SC204 07-29-2014 08:51 PM

The trailer is an old Nor Easter. The cross members are not straight, they angle down towards the middle. The only reason I was looking at 3 or 4 by is because my brother had a trailer and I measured his bunks, they were 3x10x 10' long. Cypress is not happening up here. Spoke to a trailer dealer and he said go get 2 2x10's and nail/screw together, then cut the appropriate angle for the hull. That may be the way to go. Oak would cost a lot to have sawn up. I have all the brackets and U bolts.

DonV 07-29-2014 09:33 PM

Lew....not to worry!! This is CSC, no need to apologize if you think you are on the right track! I've got 3 x 10 cypress standing on edge on the rear bunks and 2 x 6 pressure treated laying flat on the front as guide on bunks. We all have what we think is the best way to "skin the cat". :) Heck I've towed my clunker 23'er back and forth the the Keys a minimum of 30 times using this set up, what ever works!!

eggsuckindog 08-09-2014 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonV (Post 229648)
Lew....not to worry!! This is CSC, no need to apologize if you think you are on the right track! I've got 3 x 10 cypress standing on edge on the rear bunks and 2 x 6 pressure treated laying flat on the front as guide on bunks. We all have what we think is the best way to "skin the cat". :) Heck I've towed my clunker 23'er back and forth the the Keys a minimum of 30 times using this set up, what ever works!!

I have an aluminum float on and will never ever own anything else like a Magic Tilt - my bunks are like Don's I think 3x10 cypress on edge but since its a 20 I only have the V guide up front.

Cypress is the preferred wood in the south since we have it, although we have Oak the Cypress will not rot and is always used. I think its alot lighter than Oak too

I just put a new axle under mine and did the bunk brackets last year but these guys are great to deal and may even send you some bunks - they have a dealer in Norfolk VA maybe they could send them there with a trailer order.

LoadMaster Trailers - they were building trailers in the 70's even - great to deal business with so call JP he'll answer all kinds of questions for you. I was very happy with may service


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