Transom Repair
 

I am going to do my transom and at the same time raise it from 20" to 25"

I will be going from the outside and not use ply wood and use coosa or something similar.

My questions

What would be the best material to use?

How much of a lip do I leave around the area cut out to work with in replacing the skin of the transom back?

To get to the 25" transom what is the centerline measurement up from the bottom up to where the engine mounts?

Any of course any and all advise welcomed!!!

Thanks

In between getting a house I bought to flip ready for sale I have not had much time to work on the boat.

Today I left early due to being rained out I had some time to cut into the transom.

It's not the worst I've seen here but it was bad, one side was just completely gone and fell to the floor and the rest was wet and rotten.

When I have some additional time it's grinder time and then order me a sheet of coosa board to replace the rotten wood.

I've seen were some have used a electric chainsaw to get out the part under the edges.

But how do you get the whole new piece into place or does it go in 2 pieces?



Anyone have a source here in South Florida?

Man I've seen that "rotten wood" visual on mine and it's not pretty. I poured my transom so I did not have to deal with the wood. If I did I would use two layers of 3/4' marine plywood or composite. I would then make a cardboard template(s) to fit in as tight as possible, so cover all the corners.This may not be the best way to do it, however I would place each sheet, front and back sheet, in the cavity in two pieces. Confusing I know. I would cut the sheets vertical at 80/20 right for one and 80/20 left for the other. You can then trim them to fit much tighter and fill all the gaps. Doing it in two pieces would enable you to wiggle the wood all the way to the sides and top....trial and error well before glassing. The middle of the transom would be solid 1 1/2" with the seams on opposite ends, one seam on the inside piece and the opposite seam on the outside piece. Lots of 1708 and epoxy resin and there will be no flex. As it is now you could never get a real tight end to end...top to bottom coverage with a single solid sheet of plywood. Confused?

I think i got it thanks so then next is to take out the old wood then grinder which i love so much and then install new transom shkuld be done by tomorrow afternoon LOL
More like 2 weeks

When I did mine I went 25 1/2" at the center line. I ended up on the third bolt hole which put the anti cavitation plate about 3/4" above the bottom of the boat. I am planning on trying one more bolt hole (only one left) because the plate is still a bit buried when running. If I were to do it again, would probably build to 27" at center line which would put the bracket almost directly on the transom top surface at the lowest possible mounting position, plate close to 3/4" above the boat bottom. I have a 1974 20' SF with the typical small flat surface rather than straight to v bottom. I knew from past outboard experience that the real measurement for a 25" shaft is closer to maybe 26 1/2" mounted but was warned not to do what I knew I should. Lesson learned. If your going to add any metal trim, adjust accordingly, would be nice if someone were to actually measure a 25 transom. Mine is ok as I do have probably enough wiggle room but I have a friend who has a bad habit of backing into the swell, lol.

Thanks for the input I think 26 1/2 it is
I like the metal on top the transom but screwing it in just leads to water intrusion down the road so I probably will go without. I do plan to either re-install the factory splash well or a starboard flat splash well ....I do not back into swells

I absolutely agree with this. I built mine to 25 as well and I need to raise one more hole too which is the last hole for me too.

DonV that is a great idea!

Steve

I think it would work from the outside quite well, which Jorge as doing. With a lot of "pre-fitting" it should work....especially with lots of his new best friends....fiberglass and fairing compound. After pouring Arjay when I did my transom I don't know if I would go back to wood ever again. I wish Jorge well and remember sand paper is cheap! :)

Love it! If u were in mass I'd say back it in my bay and I would help u. I'm assuming you are just raising the transom height. That being the case my only experience is -w- a full transom so I would follow the advice of the sc guru's here. If u change your mind I'll shoot u the measurements and build images on mine. Good luck enjoy!

Hello Jorge,
I live in Miami also and have recently finished a 23' SF rebuild (floor, paint, transom, Hermco bracket, everything, here at my house) about 6 months ago. I also own a 20' SF with 25" motor. You can make measurements off that if you want. Contact me if you want, John 305-790-4261 or email at pntglady1@bellsouth.net

Guys thanks for all the offers of help and encouragement.

Capt. Mako I'll hitch it up and be there in the morning for your help...LOL

John as soon as I can get the old transom out I will call you so I can come by and see your 23 and 20.

As to the transom when I exposed it the transom on both sides were mulch and practically fell out. The middle part although wet is in pretty good shape ....which leads to a harder time in it's removal

Any Ideas as to the EASIEST way of getting it out?

I have been so busy with the home flip I have been doing the boat has been not even on the back burner, but I should be done with it 100% today

So if anyone is looking for a nice home in Miami let me know

"Any Ideas as to the EASIEST way of getting it out?"

Take a power saw and set the blade depth 1/16" to 1/8" less than the depth of the wood, which is around 1 1/2", cut horizontally in 1" to 2" strips and take a wood chisel and chip it out from the inner skin. You need to be careful, the inner skin is not very thick..

Why can't somethings be easy.....yea i know its not

Why could my transom have been one of those that is so bad it falls in a heap all in one piece?
Oh well !!!!!!

I had sometime today after my open house and also to let the day get a little cooler( it was 95 in the shade today) and got about 30 mins to work on the transom.

made a little progress and tomorrow's another day

Transom replacement
 

Jorge, Hurry up when you have a chance, the November Gathering at Cabbage Key is "right around the corner" - in both time and space. Rapido, me Amigo!

November of 2015?????

Hi George I used a twisted wire cup on my grinder I helped a lot. I cleaned my transom out in one day. Check out my 23 build I am still working on.. Cut my transom from the outside as well.. And yes it sucked...

I needed to see some kind of progress on the transom so I took out the grinder (my new best friend) and took care of the inside of the transom skin. I did 5 mins on removing some of the wood from the transom but it looks like it wants to be real stubborn.

How I wish that there was a power tool to get this job done easier...I would buy it in a sec.

I now know why the 2 sides are rotten and the middle is better. The inside skin of the transom did not go all the way up leaving a place for water to get in.. The cap helped some but water had a way of getting in.


Either way it needs to come out and raised to a 25" transom

A sharp chisel was my friend

I used a scraping blade that attaches to a reciprocating saw. It worked really good.

So I just need to know this.

How many out there have done a transom that would do it again?

I cannot imagine that they are few and far between.

Its time to bring out the power tools!!!!!!

I would.......however only on my boat! :)

Did one once, no fun without an air chisel and several homemade and modified blades. :D

Worked on the transom today, got out the gas chainsaw and was careful with it.
Took out 95% of the wood and I got stuck on the small part left.

How do I access and take off the nuts to remove the transom lifting ring?

I cannot get to it with my live well being in the way...tried to get at it by removing the side vent but there is a huge amount of potter putty in the way and it looks like I would not get there anyways due to a tight fit or is this the way to go?

SUGGESTIONS??????


Something else I found...the drain tube did not go all the way thru, it had 2 inches on each side and in the middle where the wood was it had nothing.....someone took a shortcut

Yikes!!! You may have met your match on the Potter putty!!!!!!

Jorge

Try a sawzall and cut the lifting pad eye as close to the alum projection spacer. Then wedge the spacer off. Next use a o piece of 2' x 4' to pound the two pad eye pieces from the outside into the cut out transom space.

Ok I see ....so then is it possible to get it back in place?

You never know someday down the road I may need to use it to lift the boat

Or for tubing or skiiing

Chip away at the putty then after removal and new transom is in, you will have to install new lifting pad eyes.

You say that now? Just wait till you have to fair the back of the boat back true. Then you will really think twice about doing another one. I wont ever do one from the back side due to the amount of fairing. But doing one from the inside isn't fun either cause you still have to cut and reinstall the liner section and fair that out too. Its a lot of work either way. All this just for a boat ride??? The cost of having a true classic, Priceless. The love of labor is a must when you own an old anything- boat , car, truck ,historic home you name it!

To help your rear eye problem cut them with the saw like mentioned and throw them away. You can get an eye that has nuts on both sides inside and outside. Just hand tighten the inside (probably wont get a wrench in there to tighten them well) then use the outer nuts to get them tight. You can get a small kid with little arms to reach in and put the nuts back on for you on the inside.

Is this the boat you were going to have done by the Fourth Of July?...2020 :D:D

I can neither confirm of deny that....LOL

But it seems like that day has come and gone but it may be picking up some steam.

I was really busy with a house I bought to flip and that tied me up for awhile.

I found the fairing not all that difficult on the transom, oh it was a PITA but nowhere like removing the wood, however with the epoxy fairing I used it sanded easily. Plus....and here's the big one....when you put the engine, dive ladder, trim tabs, etc. back on they will hide any really bad imperfections. :) After the Signature paint finish was completed I have to point out what I consider imperfections to people.

Potter Putty Removal= 2"Chisel and 2lb Hammer

I am sooooo looking to the experience

Go Gators

Be Careful; you don't want to derail the thread with Gator Bias. :eek:

Go Gators

Sorry if they don't understand....LOL

Well after some pounding on the potter putty that I accessed thru the side vent I was able to take enough out that I was then able to back the 2 bolts out.....what a pain in the butt.

Although now I am able to get the transom prepped for the new transom....but this weekend we are leaving to Islamorada and we are meeting the future in-laws.

So it's going to be an interesting weekend and the boat ill have to wait AGAIN!!

Now I need recommendations on where to purchase materials local to Miami.

I do plan on going composite on the transom and besides that what else do I need.

Help is appreciated from the Seacraft gurus.

On another note I would like to throw out there an idea I had on the floor.

Currently I have the skin of the floor out and I took out/ grinded the bottom skin along with the gas hatch.

My idea is I would like to use some kind of composite on the floor and in the areas that need strength for the T-Top and console use plywood.

Is this and option that would work?

Rather than plywood for hard spots, why not glass? The deck is only a 1/2" core. It would never rot, and be strong. Just a thought.

Good idea on solid fiberglass! Or if you know exactly where the T-top is going to be mounted how about an aluminum plate. You could use machine screws and tap the aluminum for added strength. I know my Pathfinder has aluminum plate installed from the factory where the trolling motor and T-top would be.