My first SeaCraft!
 

Hi folks! First post. I have long enjoyed this forum! I came across a 20CC in original condition and bought it. The ser. no is 971, does this mean it is a 1971 or just a coincidence? It is registered as a 1969. I am the third owner and the original owner had it for around 40 years. The boat has a Mercruiser 140 I/O. White hull, seafoam green topsides, original gelcoat. She was a lake boat so no corrosion on the engine. The best I can tell she is pretty solid, transom seems good, no flex with me standing on the drive. There are some gel coat cracks below the waterline which will have to be dealt with. I need to post some pictures and I will when I can figure it out, but what is your opinion on any changes from original, such as rub rail change to stainless, removing the aluminum bow rails which are rough, leaning post versus single seat, etc. When a boat is this original I would hesitate to change anything. I want to just use it "as is" for awhile before doing anything drastic if at all. I need your voice of experience, Thanks in advance!

That maybe a 69 ,lots of IOs I have seen are that seafoam green from 69....photos would help....I am not tied and true on some of the serial numbers...I always thought mine was a 1970 SF OB that's what it is registered as ...But my boat has more features of a 1969...My ID plate is thin aluminum on the inside of the motor well it is worn and cant be read...from what I can figure mine has some Mosley and Potter and myself in her,,,,I owned mine for 27 years now.......
I am certain there are guys on here that know more in detail about year,

Joe R.
20ft Classic SeaCraft
Susie II

Test pic
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...724_095007.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...724_094623.jpg

getting closer lol, Welcome aboard

Haha, Thanks!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...724_094106.jpg

Looks like a 1969, I would bet it is. The 971 dose not mean 1971 the last 2 numbers on the hin on the back of the boat would tell you the year but anything pre 73 dose not have that. The console look like what I have seen on other 69's and the way the hull liner anchor locker cut out looks as a 69. If your scuppers go out the transom and not threw the floor bottom then it is a Moesly not a potter a true well built Classic!

Also the metal SeaCraft badging on the sides of the boat are a Moesly pre potter indication as well as the gas tank under the console too.

I have that exact same console on my 72. I believe it came from the 1970 20sf that was next to mine when I bought it

Thanks for the replies. The scuppers do go out the transom. I have read that Mr. Moesly and Mr. Potter worked together in 68 and 69, correct? Should I leave it dead stock or are changes with discretion acceptable.?

Welcome aboard! The boats were apparently registered in the year they were sold, but the early CC's were pretty hot sellers, so I'd guess your boat was most likely built in 68 or 69. I would consider it a Moesly boat, as Potter didn't really take over till '70, so it's extremely well built. The scuppers running out the transom are a +, as you can easily install the Raybud ping-pong ball check valves to prevent wet feet with a heavy load in back. The serial no. only indicates that it was hull number x71, as the serial numbers didn't all start at zero! The Moesly boats had a small fuel tank in the console, but nobody would blame you if you wanted to install a bigger tank under the deck/console.

The 140 MerCruiser was a 5 mpg rig and it'll be hard to beat that fuel consumption, even with a modern DI or 4S outboard, so I'd lean towards keeping the I/O if it's in good shape.

Thank you Bushwacker! The more I dig into this forum the more I learn. I will replace the crazed and cracked clear windscreen with a tinted one, remove the beat up bow rails for now, give it a buff and wax, service the drive and engine, go over the electrical system, etc. I am a lifelong boater and really love seeing all the fantastic rebuilds and restorations. I also have a Chris Craft Commander 36 TF that I spent 3 years bringing back to life so a rebuild of this SC doesn't really scare me but it would be nice to just use and enjoy, get to know it, for a while anyway. I grew up working on Mercruiser I/O's so that helps too with this one. The lower fuel burn is a huge plus. I live in Ga and my daughter lives in St Pete so this boat will see action mainly on the GOM. Thanks again!

If your gel coat is just faded/oxidized without a lot of craze cracking, I'd consider using Poly-Glo on it. Much easier than the wet sand/compound/wax buff routine plus it will last MUCH longer! (Like 1 year in the severe UV of S. Fl!) I've been using it for about 5 years on my boat's original gel coat and am quite pleased with the looks and durability of it. The HD cleaner that comes in the kit will make it very dull looking, but it's important to get the surface clean because whatever is on there will be there for at least a year once you put the coating on it! The coating appears to be some sort of urethane emulsion and leaves a very high gloss, like the surface is wet. The first couple of coats may show some streaks, but they'll disappear after about 5-6 coats.

Regarding the I/O, you'll find that the boat is better balanced with it. Although it's heavier than most outboards, the extra weight is forward of the transom, so the I/O models tend to ride better and plane at low speed, like around 12 mph! If you're used to working on them, it'll probably be cheaper and easier to maintain than an outboard!

Good to know, BW. I have heard of that product but never have tried it. I appreciate your experienced comments on the stern drive too, I didn't really think about the balance aspect. I like I/O's but for salt use they have their cons, can't tilt them all the way out, corrosion aspect and the engine box takes up interior room, as you know. I won't leave the boat in the water for extended periods and I will flush everything real well. I will try it for awhile, run it till I am forced to make a decision to keep that power or change it, and go from there.

SeaCraft Island
 

Toteboat, You are ruined. From this point forward, nothing else will do.
I cut 6 trapezoid 6" X 6" inspection ports in my '67 floor because I was sure after 49 years even though the deck felt solid - it couldn't possibly be. They had really good fir plywood back then and Carl must have saturated it, because not only were the decks perfect in all but one spot about 12" X 12", but the box stringers and lamination to the hull were still in excellent condition. I epoxied the inspection plates back in, ground off the excess, laid two layers of 3/4 oz. matt over the whole floor and gel coated some no-skid sand strips back in. That was in '06. Done a lot of "Cross-tie walkin" in that shallow water off of Bayport for 25 miles coming and go'in since then. I got friends with 23 Mako's and 223 Formulas/stretched Contenders that burn 3 times the fuel and need an F-350 or 2500 Suburban to drag their stuff around. They can't afford to run with me and when they do they they can't keep up.
Run the 140 Mercruiser unit until it dies or the gimbal bearings make you crazy or the alternator falls off and then think about a 90 or 115 outboard on a hydraulic jack plate with a little notch, up high so you can tilt the motor in the "up" position. If you hang a 200 30" back it's liable to start "Hobby Horse'in" on 'ya.
Lots of good data on this site and the same exact number of opinions as members so get in your Tyvek suit, put on your safety glasses, Kevlar gloves, steel toed boots and hard hat and stand by for instructions!
And remember, you don't have any "potter putty" in your Moesly SeaCraft because Carl fit everything together properly with structural integrity, so vote for the tee shirts with the Sea Craft in Script Font because every vote counts except in Broward County where they count a couple of times if you got a "D" on your voting registration.

"We'll said" especially the last part..

Cool then I've got a few votes to cast. Where Is that t-shirt thread?

Hi Terry,
Our minds work alike. I have been concerned about what could be lurking below. I'm trying to resist cutting a hole in anything and I will. I told my son if he sees me reaching for a drill or jigsaw to tackle me. I would like to keep this boat as unmolested as possible, at least until I have more experience with what would be right vs wrong. The deck has NO apparent soft spots and I weigh 250. That is really hard to believe but I am going with it.

"Lots of good data on this site and the same exact number of opinions as members so get in your Tyvek suit, put on your safety glasses, Kevlar gloves, steel toed boots and hard hat and stand by for instructions! "

Haha, as it should be, that means this group is energized, and I have noticed everyone is pretty respectful of each other.

"And remember, you don't have any "potter putty" in your Moesly SeaCraft because Carl fit everything together properly with structural integrity, so vote for the tee shirts with the Sea Craft in Script Font because every vote counts except in Broward County where they count a couple of times if you got a "D" on your voting registration."

Since I am a SeaCraft rookie I will stay out of the fray, lol, but I fully agree on the D thing. The script font is more sexy lookin though.

My '72 is all original and also has no soft spots in either the deck or cockpit sole. Balsa is stronger and accepts resin better than most foams, so it makes an excellent core material provided you properly seal any holes drilled in it! With a solid deck and all glass stringers, there really isn't much to go wrong with these hulls, no matter how old they are!

Moesly for sure. Congrats nice score!

Thanks guys! I launched her yesterday evening! Very excited, but didn't forget the plug:).Immediately had wet feet from the scuppers, wife got weirded out, I had to show her the bilge was dry by lifting the engine cover up, :D. She didn't understand but now she does. What's better to fix it, Raybuds or crossing the hoses or both? I don't want to raise the deck at this point. Engine ran well, 4600, the Merc/Chev 4 is a little thrashy but I knew that, no surprise there. Temp shot up hot, but I think it's just a bad sender because I checked it with an infrared temp gun and she wasn't hot at all, 140-180 depending on where I put the red dot. More fun today! I want to hear the whoosh coming off a big wave, :eek: