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Big outboards didn't always have power trim! Any older motor without power trim should have a specially made pin just like you're looking for. My 1975 115 Evinrude had one with a pivoting locking tab on one end with a spring and 90 degree bend on other end. You'd just rotate the bent end to point up, push in and the tab would unlock so you could pull the pin, move to another hole and rotate bent end down and push in against spring to lock in place.

The pin only limited how far the motor would drop down. I don't remember it having a feature to lock the motor down, but it did have a lever on side of bracket you could move before you tilted motor up that would hold motor up after you manually tilted it. You had to move the lever down to tilt motor back down and that may have automatically locked it down.

I had a 1966 100 hp Evinrude with a similar pin that had a lever to engage the locking feature to prevent motor from popping up in reverse but I never used it. The motor was heavy enough and I never used reverse hard enough to need the locking feature.

Some of the old outboard hydro and runabout racers would pin them as the "Forward Stop" and then run a couple of bungees around the leg so they would flop around unless they hit something (like another hyro that flipped). This of course was back before Mercury's were White, back when they were Green and had really bad coils and no neutral or reverse. However, if you could get the coils to "catch", the Hurricanes would "yodel".

She will have a limit shaft.
Run her low and slow. You need to bring her back to life.
Double oil. Patience please.

Cheers,
Smoker

Something like this is what you are looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-JOHNSON...545dea&vxp=mtr

What are all of your compression numbers

They made about 12 models. Some GTs which may have 120-130 and many came the factory with 90.

Run her on a pony tank and decarb at fast idle 1500 15 mins sit for 15 repeat repeat.
Call the FD first. Seriously.Yes, sometimes I can be serious. Really, I can.

When the motor on my 370 lb yamaha F100 packed up, I unscrewed the relief valve a bit with a standard screwdriver, let it down, and went fishing. Then did the same to trim it up at the boat ramp. So it stayed locked down at sea. Maybe there is a similar valve on your OB?

It is heavy to tilt up and down and when it goes over center, it gets exciting- you could pinch a finger badly if you weren't looking.

Oh yeah. Nothing beats Kroil for loosening up parts.

Sandy's right!!!! Normal compression for a "standard" 90 degree Looper 175 should be 90-95 psi through 1994.
Early 60* Ficht motors were 105-115 psi, according to my SELOC manual.

There is a relief screw on the side of the transom clamp which will allow the raising and lowering of the motor. It only works as a "hold" in position, however, if there is hydraulic fluid in the system.

Some worry that overnight washes too much oil from internals. BRP agreed.

I used the omc 2+4 spray can which attaches to the schraeder valve on the fast start solenoid. Red cap.

I then did the seafoam mix or Dunk method. Directions on the can.

The wall of smoke was 30 ft high and 20 ft wide. I did it at a local ski lake ramp and a Sheriff
on a flats boat came screaming up thinking a warehouse was on fire. He was really mad.
I told him I called the FD.

Maybe just stuck rings. Do you have a bore camera?

I wouldn't run her until you do a decarb and another compression check.
Could be easy or boom.

The 60deg JohnyRudes also have a series of recirc check valves in the plastic manifold and their intake face of the block, and similar ones on the main journals for that matter. It can really run like crap down low if the intake/carb ones are sticky. I would definitely run it easy and let everything come up to temp and let everything get a nice bath of some decarb concoction while expanding and contracting before spinning it up. I prefer to use regular twc-3 waking up something from a long hibernation , none of the blended or the full synthetic oil. That's just my .02. Good luck

Btw, does the trim motor run at all, relays click?

While your at it I would throw in a new water pump impeller and some new t-stats. Don't want no cooling issues while you are breaking her in....

My old 115 used 5/16" fuel lines, but I think you need 3/8" fuel lines on anything bigger than a V-4 to make sure you don't starve it for fuel @ WOT! I'd change all those lines to 3/8", and while you're at it, check all the fittings to make sure holes in them are full size. The shop I used to deal with on my old motor once found a 90 degree fitting coming out of a fuel tank that had undersized holes in it! It was responsible for a blown powerhead!

3/8 fuel line? This is a must. My 96 is a bit different in that this was the first year for the system check tach.

I want as many gauges as possible. Temp should read 140-150. Above 160 or so and capt corrosion comes calling. Volt should be 13.4-14 or so. Manual is at work. Trim is fed signal by the black plastic arm on the swivel bracket. They get stuck open as the shaft gets tight and the spring weakens. Find a friend or child with small hands to replace the spring and clean up the shaft.

Not sure if the gauge packs were all daisy chained for ease of production or for electrical reasons. Electrical gremlins laugh at me. Clean all grounds and hot connections. Bad grounds can cause tach jumping or lead to low side regulator blow out.

Remove the pink wire from the fuel gauge and see what happens.

When you turn the key on does a horn sound?

Cheers,
GFS

Is there a horn under the console or in the binnie? I believe the pre system check warnings were different numbers of beeps corresponding to hot, low oil, no oil, and fuel vacuum. really important to have those functions. You pre mix, but the hot and fuel function is real handy. Get a factory manual. I always call BRP support when I have questions. The prompt says they will only help folks with 98 - up products, but they always help me and most of them have the exact motahs we have.