Trailer Help needed - Bearings
 

Well the last scheduled trip of the year started off well.

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Great time on the water! :)

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Then on the way back I blew out a bearing...:(

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So I hiked the axle up and secured it and successfully limped on home... and so the "repairs" start

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Here are some pictures of the axle spindle after I got the hub assembly off.

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The spindle has some scratches and small gouges in it, but nothing too severe.

So, can I just buy some new bearings and put the hub back on this spindle?

Yikes. Is that an unintentional welded ridge?

What size bearings? I have 4 new sets looking for a home...complete w/seals.

Not sure yet, but I'll keep you in mind! Thanks.

After closer inspection, it appears the larger inner bearing and race seem to be intact.

BUT, the outer bearing and race are a different story. the outer race is chipped, gouged, and cracked. The outer bearing is in hundreds of little pieces, totally discentigrated.

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You may want to get yourself some speedy sleeves. They will provide the new bearings a smooth surface to ride on.

I don't know the cost factor...but my mind set is always get rid the old part and start new. In the long run (for me) I have found this to be the cheapest way out.

I'm with Island Trader. You might get away with a fix, but that looks to me like trouble down the road. The ugly question is "Can you change spindles without changing the axle?"

I'd say you need a new axle. I doubt replacing a stub axle would be cost effective, if you could do it. Looks like some wear on the seal area which might have contributed?

Entire axles are heavy but not that hard to do- you are a third of the way to disassembly anyway.

Good luck. I hate trailer trouble.

Jim a new axle with flanges is about $175, http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Tra...c_146-1-1.html , your spindle looks good enough to save. Your SS inner seal ring looks perfect. Had the same thing happen to me on Alligator Alley and the hub wore down the outside bearing's mounting surface about 1/16". Took some emory cloth and worked on the outside bearing surface until the inner race would slide on smoothly, put on a new hub, with new bearings and used it for another five years.

To answer Conner's question, yes it can, I've done it, however I can't remember if it was on an axle with a brake flange! The weld can be cut with a metal cut off wheel, the old spindle removed and a new spindle slid back in and welded in place. However the welding will burn off about 1" to 2" of galvanizing on the axle and we know what will happen in the saltwater world the trailer is dunked in.

Thanks for all the responses and helpful knowledge guys!!

I agree with almost all of the suggestions.

A couple of my thoughts:

1) I think I could get away with and it is possible to cut off the existing spindle off the existing axle and weld on a replacement spindle. But I think that would be a royal PITA, and provide a marginal longterm result. The brake assembly may also cause a problem on that retro fit. I also agree with Don that the galvanized part will be compromised.

2) I think a new axle (as Terry and CDavisdb) suggest is the "best" long term fix, although the most expensive at this time.

3) I like Don's thoughts and suggestions best. I think it is the easiest and cheapest "attempt" to fix the problem. The bearing surface on the spindle isn't that bad. I think a good light sanding/honing of the axle spindle will produce a very smooth riding surface. I'll then get a new set of bearings and press, grease and pack everything back together and just see how it goes. I don't use my trailer much, as I generally keep my boat at a high-n-dry marina at the local lake.

4) If solution #3 doesnt work, I'm not out much money and then I can go for a total axle replacement.

Make sure the outer bearing wont wobble on the spindle after dressing.

Always good to replace damaged parts but If you clean up the surface where it is smooth enough to get the bearing back on without play it will be fine. I have had this happen and done this with out problem while still working three years latter. If it is loose or has play it will need replacing. I have bought spindles from a suppliers for less than $20 but when you weld them in you must get them 100% straight or you will have excessive tire ware. You will loose the galvanized protection but I have an industrial product that will re galvanize the welds but not as good as hot dipping it. You heat it and melt the product over the area. Forget what the product is called. Long as the new bearing is tight on the repaired area let her ride and don't worry it should be fine.

Haven't looked for it yet but think they make a brass sleeve for this type of repair at least for the seal

spindle saver.

What do the other bearings/spindles look like?

Outer bearing was totally destroyed, just bits and small pieces left of it. The outer race was cracked, chipped and gouged. The beginning of the thread shows the condition of the spindle.

I have identified the bearings I need. The bearing set needs to be 1-3/8" inners and 1-1/16" outers.

PM sent...

I have a set of 4 of those I ordered I never used if you're interested. e-mail is best for me. reelescape1@yahoo.com

Use Mystik JT 6 High Temp red when you go to grease those hubs up !!

Lil Kenny & I towed his LuCraft to the keys four years ago on a bad
bearing down and back.....:eek::eek:

As always at every stop would check tires and hubs, all seemed good.

On the way down from Area 442 just before getting on the Turnpike
above Miami a concerned driver was pointing to the trailer..:confused:

We pulled over and checked everything, no problem found.
Tires and hubs cool as a cucumber....:)
Got to Skip & Carla's, same no obvious problems ..

When we got back to Area 442 a week later and the trailer
was backed in on the pad in front of the shop, I noticed the
left 12 inch tire was tilted in....:eek::confused:

Low and behold inner wheel bearing was gone.. :o

With any other grease we would have been on the side of the road..

I swear by the RED JT-6 !!

It is even sold at Walmart and Tractor Supply..

I think it all depends on how far and often you tow. My average towing round trip is about 120 miles. I had infrequent issues with bearings, tires, and rotten spring hardware on a 10 year old trailer and after just a couple of roadside issues I tore it all out and replaced them with torsion axles and oversized/rated tires. Best money I have ever spent. When you consider how valuable a trouble free day off on your boat is, the cost to keep things trouble free far exceeds the value of gambling with aging parts.

I got my new bearings and races today. Had the races pressed into the hub after I cleaned it up.

next step is to thoroughly grease the bearings up with the grease No Bones suggested. Then tap in the inner seal.

And on to the tricky part...lightly debur and gently sand the spindle where the outer bearing rides.

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Once everything is smooth and outer bearing glides nicely, I will put the hub on and tighten the bearings and back off one castle nut cavity. Pump the hub up full of grease using the zerk grease fitting on the axle. Then close it up with the dust cover, mount the tire/rim on the hub and give it a try...

Be careful when you pump the grease into the hub assembly, if you Get it "full" of grease it will get hot and expand from the heat build up of the bearings. When that happens it will blow the seal out and grease will wrap up the back side of the rims. If you have ever saw boat trailer rims that were full of grease on the back side it is because of people putting to much grease in them and there is no room for expansion from the heat.

Well since last week my boat and trailer have been residing at a friend of mine's house that is very close to the lake where I use my boat. His house was a "safe harbor" where I could get my boat/trailer to when I blew out the bearing.

He only lives about 2 miles from the lake. And my house is about 25 miles from the lake. That is why I generally keep my boat in High & Dry storage at the lake for convenience sake. Unfortunately, this year some other things ate up my fun $$ and I elected to keep my boat/trailer at a storage yard close to my house for cheap rent.

So today I got off work early to take advantage of the daylight and 70 degree weather to "fix" my axle/bearing problem. Everything went extra smooth thanks to all the good advice of my CSC friends!! Although watching quite a few YouTube videos on the subject was very helpful too.

The below pic shows the axle almost completely reassembled right before I put the outer piece of the disc brake caliper back on. Can anybody see/guess if anything looks missing or problems? Hint: look close.

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Well after totally closing everything up and pumping the hub full "but not too full" - (Thanks FF) of the correct grease (thanks No Bones), I started my 20 mile trek home.

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On the ride, I kept humming a song from Gordon Lightfoot "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald" Specifically a line in the lyrics " The searchers all say they'd made White Fish Bay if they'd put 15 more miles behind her..." as I was clicking off mile after mile without problem on my way home with the boat and trailer behind me.

I stopped a couple of times on the way home to check the temp and stability of the hubs, everytime they were cool and firm.

Well I'm proud to say my mechanical skills are worth at least 25 problem-less miles and got home safe and sound. Hopefully many more miles to come!!

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THANKS AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL THE HELPFUL IDEAS!! CSC IS A GREAT COMMUNITY!!!

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Glad things went well but the rear spring hanger looks bent.

True, but that is not what I was I alluding to.

Missing: I don't see the other half of your caliper

The line going in to the caliper looks like its hitting the frame and could be turned away, and the hanger is slightly bent.

Congrats on a good repair!

The cotter pin is missing

I tow 1000 plus miles a year with my boat and a fifth wheel trailer, not at the same time. I bought a point and shoot thermometer from Harbor Freight and take the temp of hubs whenever I stop. It is quick and gives me piece of mind. Big variations in temp would be a warning.

I forgot to say I also carry a new hub with bearings and seals pre greased just in case things go south. It is insurance you hope you never use.

Good eyes CoreyTrx, I missed that!

I have a little blue tackle box I carry in my truck too, it has both common bearing sets, seals, grease,hubs w/studs & nuts and basic tools that fit any of my boat trailers, utility or car haulers in case of a problem. I don't pull with out it!

I stop on the side of the road & fix it real quick (usually 30 minutes or less) and then back on the road to the fishing grounds...

After changing two or three you get good at it. My trailers are usually good to go but the ones I pick up buying and selling usually are crap and in bad shape so I have had to do it a few times.

Ding, Ding, Ding....We have a winner!!!

I did install the cotter pin though, just after that picture was taken...LOL!

Jim

Well Jim there is no doubt you installed the cotter pin in my book, because if you hadn't there would have been no...."clicking off mile after mile without problem on my way home with the boat and trailer behind me" :) :) Good job!!

Jim,
I don't like the way that brake line overlaps the trailer frame. It may not apply to yours, but the instructions for my trailer brakes showed the caliper mounted behind the rotor, not above it. That's why the calipers have two bleed ports, so you can bleed from the one on top. If you rotate your mounting bracket counter-clockwise to the next set of holes, it might eliminate the brake line/frame conflict.
Dave

Good call Dave!! 90 degrees counter clockwise is what I would be doing!! I'm thinking a ten minute job!

Very good call Dave!! I thought it was kinda funny the way it was rigged. I put it back the same way I found it. But, come to think of it when I bought the trailer used the PO told me the front axle was relatively new. I'll bet who ever installed the replacement axle installed it incorrectly. And I'll bet it doesn't look like that from the factory. I'm going to check on that tomorrow. The trailers are built right here in my hometown. I'll get to the bottom of this. Thanks again for your insight on this. It was right there in front of my face and I didn't put two and two together. Another set of eyes and an extra brain sure helps out!! Can I bleed the brakes okay in the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position?

Jim

I installed a set as pictured. They would not work correctly because they could not be bleed properly. Once rotated worked great

The more I think about it, I'm not sure I can mount the caliper at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock and still be able to bleed the lines. Check out where the valves are in the picture below...the caliper might have to stay where it is?? The caliper appears to have two pistons

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Dave's comments would apply to a single piston caliper (the most common type), but your double piston type (which I think is pretty rare) is mounted correctly. You won't be able to bleed all the air out of the cylinders if you mounted it on the side. Also, if you could rotate that brake line elbow 90 degrees in either direction, you might be able to run the brake line underneath the trailer frame. The tight bend in that brake line really isn't conducive to long life!

BTW, it's worth spending a few bucks more on silicone brake fluid for the boat trailer system. Conventional DOT 3 fluid absorbs moisture like a sponge, which can be a problem in high humidity areas like S. Fl. (BMW recommends flushing conventional DOT 3 fluid every 2 years to eliminate corrosion problems in the hydraulic system!) However using silicone fluid will totally eliminate rust build up inside the calipers and master cylinder. I've used it for years in older vehicles, but it's not approved for use in most ABS systems with hydraulic pumps, I believe due to a difference in compressibility characteristics.