1973 20' MA - New Bracket, Self Bailing Deck, etc.
 

I currently have a 2003 150 Merc. saltwater series efi on an armstrong bracket (enclosed transom). Currently my deck is not self-bailing and that is my main concern as I fish offshore often. My batteries are under my console, so there is not much weight to move forward. My scuppers go straight out through the transom. I am debating on getting a hermco flotation bracket (maybe one for twins) in order to capitalize on the aft flotation benefits. I am also debating on getting a four stroke while I do this reconfigure as well. Any advice, suggestions, concerns, experience about the flotation bracket, what four stroke to get, weight distribution, re routing the scuppers.

Thanks in advance!

If u add a flotation bracket and four stroke you may be worse off than now far as self bailing. Your motor you have now is light and about perfect for your hull. Surprise with your batteries forward it don't self bail. You can run lines from left to right and cross them to help some when standing in the corners but you may have wet foam full of water sinking the boat lower. A 1973 has lower decks but your motor should be under 400 lbs. Not much lighter out there with that same hp. Also if it is a ma it will have higher decks than a 1973 sf. They didn't make ma hulls yet in 73. They didn't happen till 7 6 ish I think.

Edit: just saw where u said armstrong bracket, there is the extra 120 lbs that is sinking you. Missed that the first time reading it. The flotation bracket makes a ton of difference. I left the plug out of mine and it made the boat sit 2" lower in the rear. Change the bracket and keep the motor or sell it to me. I love the 2.5 mercurys. Best outboard ever made!

If you haven't already seen it, suggest you read my updated post on the pros & con's on brackets at top of Repairs/Mods section. Frizz is right, the limited flotation in your bracket is a significant part of your problem, so changing to a Hermco bracket with minimal setback will help a lot, but NOT if you hang a 500 lb 4-stroke motor on it! If you HAVE to have a 4-stroke, the only one I'd recommend is the 140 Zuke, which is about the same weight as the 2.6L E-TEC. However if you're just looking for lower fuel burn and less smoke with more mid-range torque, you might want to also consider the Merc Optimax, or if you want all that AND less noise and great reliability, consider the E-TEC.

There are a couple of other issues to consider. If your MA is really a '76 model, it should already have the raised deck, which Potter incorporated about 74 or '75. The factory used closed cell foam, so if it's never been apart, the wet foam scenario is not likely, although a wet transom would certainly add weight where it's least desired. I'm not that familiar with the MA's, but I thought ALL the Potter models had the vertical scuppers running out the bottom, so if your scuppers run out the transom, maybe the deck was replaced with plywood instead of the original 1/2" balsa core, which would have added a bunch of weight. And maybe the foam was replaced with open cell foam, which could indeed hold water. However, use of the Raybud ping-pong ball check valves on the transom scuppers might be a simple near term solution!

If you go to all the trouble of changing the bracket, you might also consider moving the whole console, batteries and gas tank further forward, as that will also correct your basic CG problem and improve the ride, which more flotation will not do! If you've never run an original 20 with a 300 lb motor on it, you won't believe how well these boats ride when they are balanced "as designed"!

All read is this! You know what you've got to do . . . 23 seacraft . . . It's time to move up. BTW - That 2.5L 150 (which is a stronger motor than my 2.4L 175hp) will push a 23 just fine with a 15p prop especially if you run light.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg7cdv1w1vE

Agreed big shrimpin,a friend just installed a new style single Yamaha f200 on an early 23 center, and was very happy on the results.15" prop. its a runner, no problems,happy with performance.

I don't know where my mind was yesterday. My boat is a 1971 SF. I may also be in the market for a Potter 23' SF though, depending on what I decide to do with my 20'.

A yamaha f200 on a 23' would be ideal!

Do it . . . you'll never look back with regret.

Gotta find the right one in my price range. It may take a while as I'm not looking to break the bank!

1971 sf, would have the lower floor and drain out the back not the floor (I have a 71 sf). Quad stringers with out foam, not the big foam filled boxes so no wet foam issues.

23' sf is a big bote compared to 20' for sure. Perfect for runs in the big pond if u go out more than 3 miles offshore.

I'm in Charleston but I do not think I want a complete project at this point.

Thinking of doing a remodification and repower. What is the best method for finding used outboards, controls, etc.?

I have had luck on Craig's list, but know what you are looking at and do compression test or even better a leak down test. Better if on the boat where you can test it but not always possible. THT has a parts section with good deals on outboards sometimes. Ebay has not been good on outboards. Lots of other things but outboards go for big bucks up there. Here in NC and south of here along the coast they seem to be cheep compared to other locations. Also Mercury has a CPO program. Preowned outboards with warranties for reasonable prices. Contact a dealer about that. If you want something more fuel efficient then look at the optimax or comparable dfi. Four strokes are nice but heavy for a 20' seacraft unless u go with a sukie 140 or something under 400 lbs which is hard to find in a four. But if you like the fuel you burn now rebuild the motor you have with new coated pistons and rings and don't worry about it for a while. As said before they are good dependable motors.

If you prop correctly, a 90-100 hp four stroke is just fine and about 370 lb for a yamaha. If you over prop it, it is a dog. Yamaha made Mercury power heads for the 4 stroke 90hp models until the change to EFI or maybe later. I have a 2000 model year. If you treat the carbs right, it is fine. I got mine for $1200 with a boat. But double that is more realistic.

I am really looking at a light four cylinder yamaha, four stroke suzuki or etec in the 140-200 hp range and closest to 400 lbs as possible. I am looking at a small rebuild and putting on a large hermco flotation bracket. Got quoted no less than $6,000 installed for a new powerhead or a total rebuild. Really trying to become more fuel efficient though.

Does that price above seem right?