Several appearance questions.
 

1. I have black spots that appear on-in the gel coat. Some wash away and to remove others, I have to us a Mr. Clean magic sponge.
2. When looking down the hull. I have shiny then dull, then shiny then dull patches. It's like I wax a 2' wide portion, skip 2', wax 2" skip 2'. This occurs on both sides of the hull.
3. Cabin fiberglass has no shine at all.
4. How do I repair/recoat the rusted fender trailers?
5, Gel coat cracks and dings. Most folks here I have talked to about repairing my gel coat cracks and dings must be on drugs. I could buy a newer boat for what they ant to charge. Is there a web site for DIYers? I need a lot of guidance and photos. I made one repair w/ 2 part epoxy, but it was where one of the screws the hold the Bimini top pulled out.:confused:

Bleach. The black stuff is mold. Weathered gelcoat is very porous.

Thanks. Any product that will help the old gel coat? I have been using Starbrite boat wax.

Clean it w X 14.
Compound w 3 m and wax w 3 m finesse it.

If you just want to do a quick spruce up I have used cleaner wax before, works easily and reasonably well by hand.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Clea.../dp/B0000AY66D

I'd patch the holes where the mat is showing with the Fasco stuff Chuck recommends to keep water out of the laminate. I've used it on my bottom painting project and it seems to be about same hardness as gel coat, so it sands easily.

I'd follow Hermco's advice on cleaning the gel coat with bleach to eliminate the black spots. Then check out this thread on Polyglo . . . it's MUCH less work than the wet sand/compound/wax option and much more durable! Use their cleaner (full strength if necessary) along with the 3M scrubber that comes in the kit. The gel coat will then look very dull, but you will be amazed at the gloss the coating will put on it.

I've had my boat since 1975, and never waxed the cabin top because I didn't want kids slipping on it, so it looked about like yours. However I haven't had kids up there for a long time, so I tried the polyglo on it 7-8 years ago and was amazed at the results! I'll never use wax again! It's not cheap but sometimes you can find better deals on it at boat shows.

"I'd patch the holes where the mat is showing with the Fasco stuff Chuck recommends to keep water out of the laminate".
Cam you give me more info on this product please?

4. use a heat gun to remove the old tape stripes on the fenders, sand, clean and paint with the "Pettit Trailercoat" or "Cold Zinc Galvanized Paint"

5. You will need to use a dremel tool to scrape out the old spider cracks. Then you can wipe it with Acetone and fill them with "2-part Fasco 7 Epoxy Patching Compound" Lot of work here.

BTW: You can always stay on the drugs like the rest of us :p

http://www.fascoepoxies.com/products.html

Used a heat gun and razor blade scraper w/ leather glove to remove stripes from fender. The rust is sanded smooth w/ 220 grit paper. Should I keep sanding until the rust is gone?

No need to keep sanding. Now wipe it with Ospho, that will kill the rust. Then paint with the Pettit Trailercoat. You can get it at West Marine. It goes a long way

I found this article on sealing the gelcoat:

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/ind...?topic=52608.0

Red Max Pro 3 is not available any more from Lowes (certainly not anywhere in AZ) so we found that Home Depot have it listed as Zep Wet Look Floor Finish. This is exactly the same product, simply re-badged. See http://tinyurl.com/7ktf964
This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.

Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF:

Materials:
-Zep Wet Look Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered), I washed Sea Cracker twice and don't see a need for the TSP
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered) Liquid in paint dept. @ Home Depot
-3M scrubbies (white, fine) I used the blue ones, white impossible to find
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves

Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The ZWLFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed.
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I will use a paint tray with disposable liner. All available @ Home Depot.

The OSPHO works great. We have a steel flag pole at our house and it was in pretty bad shape when we bought the house. I unbolted the flag pole, set it on saw horses, and used a disc sander with 80 drit and sanded down to bare metal. Then I coated the flag pole with a couple of coats of OSPHO, then 2 coats of rusty metal primer and then 2 coats of Rustoleum.

Looks great.

I would be a little hesitant to use a floor finish intended for indoor use on a boat. You might want to check the label to see if it has any UV inhibitors in it. Or you could do what Bushwacker suggested. Poly Glo is a product formulated for use on gelcoat.

http://myboatstore.com/poliglow-refr...FQwbaQodJ7QAOQ

I've been using it for years.

Dave

Ok, washed SeaCracker twice w/ barkeeper's friend & blue scrb pad, then washed with 8 oz TSP to 1 gallon water. Used 1 bucket on topside & 1 bucket for each half of the hull & transome. I have 4 coats on the hull & 2 coats on the topside. Used several micro fiber rags instead of the applicator. Change rags often. Wear high quailty latex gloves and put on a new pair every 2 coats. Watch for sweat running out the inside of the gloves. ALSO WATCH OUT FOR SEALER DRIPS! if you don't wipe immediately, you'll have a green spot. Sealer very easy to see when applying 2,3 & 4th coats. I didn't seal her name because it needs touched up. Last picture is before any washing.