Center Console attachment
 

The guy I bought my 18 from had replaced the screws that hold the center console down with non stainless screws that are narrow and now rusting. While it still seems solid, already a few of the heads have popped off and I don't want to find myself in rough seas with the console sliding around the deck. So... Any thoughts on the best way to re attach my CC?

Should I just move the CC forward a bit or backward a bit and re-screw with stainless? I thought about cutting a piece of HDPE to attach it to and then attach to the deck.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Rob

Without a picture I say you try to get them all out. Any where the heads break off drill them out or if they are very rusty use a punch and tap them through. Since you will want to re-seal the console at that point I would slide the console to the side where your wire chase is (Mine was starboard side) and lean it over. Then go ahead and pull all the the screws on the deck plat over your fuel tank. Clean everything up. Fill all holes then re drill and use the correct screws. Follow that up with sealant in the deck plate seams followed by the same when you put the console back. Should take you less that a day or two unless you run into trouble. But on the flip side it will give you time to look at your fuel tank and hoses and see if there will be trouble down the road.

Thanks CaptnMick. Sounds like a good plan. Do you know if when the fuel tank cover is off if I can reach to through bolt the CC?

Thanks again.

Rob

Not on mine. Search the rebuild threads and you should be able to find a picture of an 18 with the deck removed.

Mine neither.
Solid glass coffin box

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/IMG_1277.JPG

Picture's worth a thousand words. Thanks.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but does anyone know if a wire can be fished from the hole in the deck where the wires are sticking out to the bow bulkhead above the casting deck for a trolling motor plug installation ? I suspect foam and/or stringer will interfere .

Mine's an 18 and I ran new bow light wires from the switch out with the rest of the wires in the rigging channel then ran a metal fish tape down the side between the inner liner and hull. Wasn't too bad. I keep a fabric fish tape for adds through the rigging channel. It's long enough to tie into a loop and after fishing a wire, I untie it and stow the ends and I'm ready for next time..

My 77 was not full of foam under the casting deck, probably not that hard to get a wire through. If it were me I would probably try to run it sideways to the gunnel and forward from there (maybe near the gas fill line). That way you can put it in a pipe and make it serviceable. I guess either way would work okay.

I know its easy to fish a wire between the liner and the hull but how do you get it to come out of the hole cut out in the deck where all the rest of the wiring is ? I have a trolling motor plug installed in the liner and presently keep my two 12V battery in the fish box but I would like to relocate them under the console seat.
I also have a thin rope in the rigging channel for add on but I'm trying to find an alternative and more practical way instead of having to use excessive amount of wire by going from the bow all the way to the transom compartment and then back to the rigging hole in the deck under the console.

Beaver


This is my 1st time trying to upload picture to show you what it looks like with deck removed

Ed

I added the supports which are perpendicular to the stringers. I did not think about the bow lights when I installed them.

I in the worst case you can run a electrical fishing wire along the outside of the stringers back to the stern and then from the back of the stern through the pipe or channel that comes up under your console.

I you cannot access the wire from the bow cut a small hole and install a deck plate so you have access to the fuel hose clamp. I can send you more pictures if you email me.

What is the dimension of your console from the front edge to the edge of the casting platform. I lost my notes when I took boat apart

I removed the live well and replaced with a bulkhead and foam insulation.

the stringers were full of water because they cut off the top to fit cockpit liner and never covered them

Thanks for the pictures, that confirms that my only choice is as you suggested and I have suspected all along, to run the wires from the bow all the way back to the stern then back up through the channel to the console. That's going to require 20' of wires at the very least which will ultimately have a significant voltage drop that I have to figure out to determine wire gauge. I was hoping to be able to run shorter wires approx. 8' from the bow starboard side liner where I installed the plug directly to the console.
B.T.W, how did you finish the stern/transom, did you put the side compartments back on or did you leave it open ? Do you have a build thread with additional pictures ?

Side lock

I do not have a build thread because of my skill (lack of) up loading pictures. I will try today or tomorrow.

I would run your wires over top of fuel tank? Can you do me a big favor and measure distance from transom where engine mounts to back of console and from edge of casting deck to front of console

Sorry I can't help you there, the boat is in a barn for winter storage and its a1.5 hour drive but I'm sure someone else with an 18' will chime in.
I'm trying to fish the wires without disturbing the console or the fuel tank hatch.

Thanks Ed for posting the picture. I always appreciate the feedback I get from this site.

Beaver,

there is no way to through bolt the console as the flanges as there is no access to the underside of the deck. I would remove the rusted hold down screws any way you can. The location of holes should be marked when you remove the console. The deck in this location is plywood and holds screws well. You can move he console forward 3/4 -1" and oversize followed by filing with epoxy and milled fibers.l

I found things on my '85 that baffled me.

1. Old sneakers to level the deck that were left under the deck.
2. They cut rear stringer top about 1/2' deep x 8" long and never recovered the foam.
3 Steel nuts on the machine screws that hold the front casting platform lid piano hinge
4. Steel nuts underside of the bow rail.

If you use LED bow lights then the current is much lower and so the resistive voltage drop is less. I do this on my 20MA. It works well. I don't even have active electronics in the LED lights, but it works well.

The wires are for a 24volt minn kota trolling motor.