Custom 25 CC - Shine
 

Here are some pictures of the boat Im building and links to more info on the deisgn....

LOA ............ 25'-5" * * * *7.747 m
Lwl ............ 21'-9 5/8" * *6.646 m
Lbp ............ 19'-4" * * * *5.892 m
Max Breadth ..... 8'-6 1/4" * *2.596 m
Depth at Lbp/2 .. 4'-4 1/2" * *1.308 m
Draft at mLDC ... 1'-5 3/8" * *0.441 m
Fuel capacity ….. 125 gal * * * *470 l
Light Ship …………….. *3364 lb * * 1526 kg
Full Load Desp.- mLDC …. 5624 lb * 2551 kg
Buoyancy reserve ……….. 1,38 m3 * * 1414 kg

With 300 hp she should hit 40 knots - AT A FULL LOAD, 5200 lbs. *A typical load of 1,000+ lbs less and I expect 55+ mph. *35 mph cruise is what Im looking for.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tI...I=w796-h295-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S2...8=w502-h448-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/In...=w1024-h485-no[/quote]

some other renderings...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cy...=w1089-h457-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nH...w=w957-h249-no

I am keeping a detailed build log here...

http://gulfstreamcomposites.forumoti...5-build-thread

I like the lines!!! Keep us posted.

Vezo

Sweet looking hull design. I like the integrated bracket. At that weight it should do well with moderate power too.

thanks, not sure what power yet, but I want to be able to cruise at least 35 mph when its flat. A 40 mph cruise would make bahamas trips and swordfishing a lot easier.

adding chine/bottom tabbing before I run more glass on the bottom. *With all the overlaps, the chine will have a minimum of 4 layer of biax cloth. *Have a few fishing trips lined up next week, and the weather is perfect for glass work, so Im pushing to get as much of the bottom glassed this week as possible. *



http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/19/19/83/70/20160224.jpg

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Looking really good, shine.:cool:

Some serious dead-rise there. What is the deadrise, and can you take a shot from the aft end showing DR and the strakes?

Will you be painting or go clear to show construction and grain. What wood(s) did you use?

Thanks!

the wood is a core, the hull is a composite sandwich. The skins are biaxial fiberglass set in epoxy resin. The outside glass skin is too thick to be clear coated, in some places the outside skin is near 1/4" thick (overlaps).

It is certainly possible to have a clear finished hull, but I would probably us a second (thin) veneer vacuum bagged over the glass to achieve the look.

Deadrise is 24 degrees, but there is a keel pad and extra wide chines that average that down.

I dont have a rendering exactly of that angle, but there are a ton of pictures here....

http://gulfstreamcomposites.forumoti...5-build-thread

Thanks Joel,
Appreciate the GSC link. Good stuff. Excellent work. Great pics they're really educational. That Woodford Reserve resin looks nice ;)
I'll be watching more closely.
Cheers,
McGill

Port hullside got one layer of glass today. *First picture is after rolling on epoxy on the wood, second if after one layer of 12 oz biax. *

http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/19/19/83/70/20160312.jpg

http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/19/19/83/70/20160313.jpg


It sure is ! It's compatible with everything :)

have not updated this one in a little while, Im into the most fun part of all right now.... Fairing ! :D

http://i86.servimg.com/u/f86/19/19/83/70/20160313.jpg


[img]http://i86.servimg.com/u/f86/19/19/83/70/20160312.jpg[/img


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Very nice, and very special..We can appreciate the labor involved.keep updates

Looking great! Love the lines!

getting back to the 26, more fairing.

I got some rolls of 4.5" wide PSA sand paper in stock now. Was using regular paper with spray adhesive for the wide board, now I can use 120 and 220 on the big board.


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more fairing


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couple coats of high build epoxy primer (EMC Quantum) spayed. Just about one gallon of primer on the hull this afternoon. *Re-coat time for spray is only a couple hours, its nice to get it hammered on.

I can see a couple things to fix on the bottom before I paint. Will be painting the bottom before the flip, so I have to decide on a color. Im thinking I will do a two color hull, dark bottom color that will match trim color on the inside of the boat.

http://i86.servimg.com/u/f86/19/19/83/70/20160434.jpg

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That is a fine looking hull

I'm 2,000 miles away and I think I can smell the resin from here!

last of the primer, now lifting her off the jig/platform ......

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160610.jpg

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You missed a spot! Oh, that's a spec of dirt on my computer screen. lol
That is some craftsmanship to say the least.

That's a fine looking boat. After its done,you need another project, I have one you can re-do. Ron.
(haha)

Shine indeed.

I actually did. Im going to give it another coat next week. I was trying to do it on one coat, but it needs two. Unfortunately for me, that means one more sanding.

haha, :D I will paint it for you if you want ;)

:cool::cool::cool: :)

:)

roll over cradle is finished, now just have to roll it outside and get a piece of equipment to pick and roll. *

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160716.jpg

A few pictures of the flip. *Have a short video on another phone. * The google gallery for this build has all the pictures. *

Rolled it over almost all the way. removed casters from top and relocated them to the bottom before setting it all the way down. *Spun the hull around and rolled it back in the shop (bow first)

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160729.jpg
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starting the interior glassing...

Started glassing. *

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160812.jpg
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Joel, How many times do we say - "Use the right tool for the job!"
You don't use an excavator for a crane! - well, unless it's a lot cheaper! (Remember, we're all a lot like Don V. - the cheap Bas#@&d)

PS - The boat looks cool

Haha, well the crane rental place would not even return my calls, and the digger was free :D That thing had an extendable arm that reaches well over 16', could probably roll over a boat twice the size. "turned" out to be the perfect tool for turning

"and the digger was free"

As T-3 would say...."free is for me and that makes it the right tool" :)

transom core is epoxied in place.

Dry fit, wet out surfaces with neat epoxy, apply epoxy glue (a mix of silica and wood flour), clamp/screw into place. both surfaces were very flat with a very nice fit, did not need a ton of glue. Used about 2 quarts of epoxy (before thickening)

Total core thickness is 2.25" Design did not call for that much, but a had the 1.5" foam core, and it didnt add much weight. With the full size bracket, the loads are spread out over a large area, so the transom core really only needed to be 1"

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160821.jpg
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Forklift with carpet pole.
Tank comes out.

Lift hull off trailer with fuel fill hose.
Wait til morning.
Repeat as necessary.

Fall for the race boat.
Shine,
Wish you were my neighbor.
Bones too.
Sweet work.

Really amazing work. When I was a boy I can remember seeing such work in Willie Roberts shop in Tavernier. We were friends of the family and he spent many afternoons showing me the process of building boats from hand laid molds. Glad to see that kind of craftsmanship is still alive in capable hands.

Can't wait to see the finished project!

We are pretty close :)

Thats kind to say, but old Willy didnt have computer models an CNC routers to cheat like I do :)

more prepping for the wide cloth along the bottom. *Will be running two 30" wide lengths that overlap one another in the space between strakes (under where stringer will be), also overlap up the chine. *Second strip overlaps the keel.

The strakes have been trimmed where they extended all the way through the hull, so glass will go over them.

Pictures below are of the first strip area before glass. *Wetting out wood, filling gaps, making a fillet along bottom of strake.

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160826.jpg

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160827.jpg

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160828.jpg

my helper

http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/19/83/70/20160829.jpg

I guess I forgot to post the pictures here of the bottom glassing.....Slow but steady progress. *The last of the hull bottom glass is in. *Hull bottom glass is 2 x DB1700, with some places having 4 layers (overlaps)

Next is the transom. *Before glassing the transom I need to get started on the sides (transom glass needs to overlap the sides). *Picture shows dry fitting the first layer of inside glass layer. *I will be laminating the sides of the hull in transverse strips of biaxial cloth. *Wetting out a single long piece of glass on the inside is asking for trouble when working by yourself in this heat. *Laying the glass this way means a little waste (with the overlaps), but thats not so important as having a good quality lamination.

http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/19/83/70/20160910.jpg

http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/19/83/70/20160911.jpg

tabbed in the transom. DB1708 tabbing 18" wide strips. Next up is the inside transom skin, going to recruit a helper for that big job..


http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/19/83/70/20160915.jpg

mr shine
my cuz jessie use fan motar fer his jonny bote
top speed bout 20 mph
dat big bote of yours mite need 2 blower fans

i like what u are doin

sam

Attachment 13273

Dang Spidey, your cuz Jessie actually had a safety shroud around the fan blade, I'm impressed. Ya just gotta love a redneck john air bote!!!

I would love to have that fan in my warehouse !

While I wait for some extra help on the transom layup, I starting with the stringers. *Stringers are H130 and H160 divinycell in 2". *The core is a mix of single cut and double cut. *It would be nice to have plain sheet material for this, but filling the kerfs is not such a big deal considering the deal I got on the foam. *

In the original design, the stringers are flat and close to parallel to the waterline. This gave really nice depth/freeboard *up in the front of the boat, but it also necessitated either forward seating or a step up to hide where the sole intersected the chine. *I redrew the stringers so that they are 6" higher at the bow and sloping back to the original height at the transom. *You can see on the chalk line the new shape. *I will still have knee high decks at the bow.

http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/19/83/70/20160916.jpg

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epoxy gluing the pieces together

http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/19/83/70/20160918.jpg