replacement trailer bunks material
 

I'm still tinkering around with the trailer(Roller Trailer) that my Tsunami sits on.Loading the boat is a nightmare.So anyway I'm going to add a couple bunks that will line up on the inner step on the outside panel of the hull.
My thinking is the the bunks will act as a guide and will keep the hull from listing(severe tilt) to port like it does now.
We've tried everything to no avail,sometimes we get lucky and it sits perfectly level,but most time we have to make 4 to 5 tries to get it to load correctly with no tilt,and sit right.

Any thoughts on Material? I've seen everything from standard fir ,cypress,pressure treated,etc. I hear good and bad on all of them
I was thinking of using some Trex 5/4 decking for the bunks,and maybe adding some strips of polyethylene or lexan to make the surface a bit more slippery,or is carpet a better choice.

Any thoughts are welcomed.

Don't use juniper. I did and now my trailer floats! (Actually, it works pretty good. No matter the angle of the ramp, my trailer is always at the same level in the water.)

Uncleboo bet that makes loading the boat fun :p

I believe my bunks are made of cypress (23 years old now). They taper down from front to rear. They were re-carpeted a couple of times and I kind of experimented on the carpeting the last time and the gray that I used is working better. Excuse the nasty bottom paint,I was hoping that it would eventually wear off by now.
I was wondering if you were winching the boat up on the trailer or trying to float it on the rollers. Personally, I hate rollers.

Seems like we corresponded on this about a year ago, but you still don't have that thing sorted out?! I've used a roller trailer for over 30 years and I wouldn't have anything else! Trailer is 31 years old and still has original springs and axle, because I never have to dunk it in salt water! I often go out by myself, and with a powerwinch, it's a piece of cake to load regardless of cross winds, cross currents, etc. NoBones has similar experience with his roller trailer.

Can you post some pictures of your roller set up? Take a look at first picture of my trailer below . . . as soon and the center of hull touches and pushes down on the inner rollers, the outer rollers pivot up and contact the hull, so there is no way it can heal over at that point. The center rollers on aft cross member keep the boat centered for the first few feet but once those outer aft rollers go over the edge of the step between the outer and center panels, the rollers run right along the step and guide the boat perfectly every time, just like it's on rails.

I suspect you may be dunking the trailer too deep instead of winching boat on, so the rollers don't have a chance to "latch on" to the steps and guide boat on trailer. (Notice how dry my trailer is in the loading sequence below . . . only the tires get wet!) Or maybe your trailer doesn't have the EZ-Loader setup with counterbalanced rollers. If you can post a picture of the roller set up, maybe we can figure out the problem. One problem I had when I first got the trailer was that the EZ Loader system has so many degrees of freedom, that if boat isn't balanced and lists to one side in the water, it would tend to come on trailer the same way. But once I got the rollers adjusted correctly so the run right along the edge of the vertical outer step, that problem went away.

Next time I go out, I'll try to take someone along with a smart phone that can take a video of the loading sequence, and maybe that'll make it more obvious how the rollers guide the boat straight up on the trailer. Denny

I just used some PT 2x12 and doubled them up...left them un-painted for a few years and then painted them. Notice the PCV Pipes? They act as guides to center the boat on the bunks...even Ray Charles could center the boat.

Attachment 12129

I don't have time to take pix of my set up, there should be pix I put on here awhile ago for my 23' Tsunami. I have bunks with keel rollers but the thing I added that makes the boat load like a dream are (2) pcs of 6-8' decking board, held up with galvanized brackets on either side of the hulls "V". It's not meant to hold any weight, just to direct the hull into the right loading position. It does this every time.

I just got my new trailer in and had the same centering boards added as well. I had the pvc centering V on my last trailer and worked great as well.

EZ Loader should use your trailer in advertisements demonstrating how well their trailer holds up to the test of time!

Kmoose like this?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1543/...740efa7f_z.jpgTrailer by TomParisOBC, on Flickr

Denny, you as well as the other members on this site are amazing.The information and knowledge you supply is beyond incredible.I hope you're doing well.

Yes,we did speak about this issue a bit over a year ago. **I have tried everything when it comes to roller placement and weight distribution.**I've tried dunking the trailer and floating the boat on**. I've tried just backing the trailer in partway and even hardly in the water**,I've tried adjusting the spread on the rollers in several different ways**. I've put tall guide ons placed near the stern end,and they work fine in keeping the boat from going off center but don't help in keeping the hull from listing severly to the side(mostly to port)**

I think what I'm dealing with are a few different problems with this trailer. I think that even though its rated as a 6,500 pound capacity it is a little to small. I also think it doesn't have enough rollers.
The arms on the rollers are not very long so I can't get the spread I need.Also the bend on arms that hold the rollers aren't high enough to clear the lips of the steps(panels).so even if I could get the rollers close enough to the lip the arms would dig into the hull.
I gave some thought as to trying larger diameter rollers but with the price. The trailer is a SHORELINE and oem parts are not available.
I thought about buying a new trailer,but I have literally only a 1/4 mile to the launch ramp, so laying out a few thousand dollars for a new trailer seems un realistic.Hopefully the bunks will help.

Thank you all for your help.

Kind of but the v itself was adjustable in height. I think I'm going to like the new centering boards on new trailer. I'll get some pics today of my new set up. The trailer is a Rocket and I am very impressed with how well made the trailer is. The I beams are twice a big as the ones on my Continental. In fact, the reason I had to buy a new one is due to one of my I beams cracking. Certainly won't be an issue on this one.

I have read that Rocket Trailers are very good, please post pics when you get a chance, thanks!

Hitchhiker Trailer Still in Use
 

My dear friend, Bushwacker, is very fastidious and fond of the rollers on his trailer and I've observed that he loads Restless Lady easily by himself. In 1978 I took a different direction and purchased a tandem Hitchhiker for my 20' Seafari. I had almost lost a car a couple times due to how far into the water I had to back the original Seminole trailer with big tires on a single axle. The Hitchhiker was aluminum with carpet bunks, like a Float-on, but with a winch and skid pads for the keel. It has smaller wheels and the cross members are V-shaped to get the boat closer to the road. I quickly rebuilt it in 2000 when I decided at the last moment to take it to SC. The rebuild included new bunks which were a little tricky to get shaped right. Fortunately one of the original bunks wasn't too bad so measured from that to build the first one, from PT lumber. The PVC guide poles at the aft end with lights at the top help my wife drive the boat on the trailer in the dark. Still enjoying the trailer. Too bad they don't make them anymore!

Here are some pics of the new trailer. I ordered the trailer to fit a 26'-28' boat as to accommodate for the new project when it is finished. The trailer is 31' overall but the Tsunami fits it just fine and the added length helps not having to back in so far. I did upgrade to all stainless bolts, HD winch and 5500 lbs 6 lug axles. The torsion arms are massive and should be more forgiving as I bent one my Continental though they were a third the size. The only parts on the trailer that are not aluminum are the axles, winch stand and tongue beam. Everything else including cross supports, guides and bunk brackets are hd aluminum. The I beams are hd 8" as well. LED lighting was standard with a real aluminum tag bracket. And yes, no brakes at this time. Researching the best option if any as I have yet to find a set worth the duty cycle I have experienced in the past.

6 lug 15 wheels

Giant torsion arms

Centering bunks with aluminum and stainless brackets

I do agree with Denny on the value of an H roller trailer fit for the boat. Back in the day when boat ramps in the keys had straight drop offs you had no option for float ons. They certainly have their advantages but also have limitations for trailering larger boats and with cross currents or wind. For me and the ramps I use float on trailers are the fastest and most convienent option for me as I can load or unload in 30 seconds with no issue or assistance. My goal is to only get close enough to the dock drop a driver off or pick them up. Everyone else is on the boat when it goes in.

As far as maintenance goes I usually get a full 10 years on most everything accept tires and brakes. After that you are usually due for some hardware and maybe axles if they are not good quality or have not been maintained but for the most part the majority of the trailer should last longer than we will if taken care of.

Very nice kmoose

Thanks Big. I'm familiar with Shoreline and even have one of their brochures. . . looks like they're sort of a cheap copy of the EZ Loader but without the patented self adjusting roller system, which is the key to a design that works well. Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on what the problems are. The bunks should be a cheap and simple solution provided you have a good ramp where you can use the float on approach. Regarding parts availability, one option might be to buy EZ Loader type parts from this outfit. I've bought rollers, brakes and lights from them and they seem to have pretty good prices and service.
Denny

Be careful in Florida State Parks if you drive your boat on to your trailer, and then have someone hook it and then pull it up the ramp out of the way.

It is against the law in Florida to pull the boat up the ramp once it's on the trailer if there is anyone remaining in the boat.

I got a ticket for this in '05 at St. George Island State Park, and I took it to court to fight it and lost. You cannot even MOVE the trailer if someone is in the boat on the trailer. Stupid ticket only cost me $75, but I was hit with over $100 in court costs.

It seems a boat ramp in a state park is considered a "state roadway".

"It is against the law in Florida to pull the boat up the ramp once it's on the trailer if there is anyone remaining in the boat"

This is one of those, "you have to be kidding me" stories!! I can not remember a single time when I'm with other folks who either drive the boat on the trailer or if I'm the one who drives it on the trailer after the strap and safety chain is attached does not stay in the boat tilting up the engines, turning off electronics, etc. until the boat is pulled away from the ramp to let other boaters access to the ramp. Stupid ticket is the proper description.

It would be a long day at the ramp if I got ticketed for that as I would spend the rest of the day with the officer pointing out the next recipients.

Don't use that Trex Material. It will wrap and bend on you. Use Cypress.
Also you can make forward and transom V bunks that will settle the Hull in center every time.

I would say, what would be more dangerous, being in the boat while someone pulls up the ramp, or jumping from the boat to the dock. I don't jump anymore.
Concerning being in a boat on a trailer, we were in a state park in Texas and it was interesting watching people in boats being pulled around the campground. Not talking one or two, but several different boats with multiple people in each one. Weird

Thanks Chuck, I doubt ill be able to find cypress in Western NY but maybe some of the old pressure treated 2x6's that have been in my garage for the last 5 years and that are nice and dry and straight will fill the bill.

Just hot coat it w epoxy and that will last.

I bought my bimini from a guy who restored an ole Mako from the 70`s.
Original float on trailer. The original owner had coated all of the hardware w a brew of roofing tar and kerosene. No corrosion.

Secret spilled.

I was also told the carpet on the bunks was actually old fire hose attached with monel staples. Lasts forever. They give the hose away.

Cheers,
Secret Sandy

I like the tip on fire hose for the bunks, looks like ill stopping at our local fire dept.Thr roof rar and kerosene mix made me laugh, only because I was looking at the mess on my work bench last week and wondered what to do with the open gallon of roofing tar that was sitting there with no lid on the can.
Being the hoarder that I am I just couldn't bear throwing it out.
Now thanks to you I've found a use for it. (Don't worry Sandy I wont tell anyone the secret)

Shhh

Todd said a long time ago.
What good is knowledge if you do not share it?

shoreline trl.
 

I had the same problem with a shoreline trl. years ago. could not correct it sold it and bought a EZ load worked fine Good Luck , Fritz

Trailers- the good, bad & ugly
 

In early 1970 I saw for the first time a video of a Float-on trailer where they just drove on until it hooked. I thought how cool. Several years later I was with a friend putting his 23' Formula on his brand new Float-on. It was not going well when a guy quickly put his 23' SeaCraft on a Hitchhiker. His response when he walked by was something like I used to have on of those pieces of $&?@!

Maybe he should have watched the video.

Was he referring to the Formula or the trailer?!:eek:

It was the &%$#@ trailer!
 

Hey Bushwacker, that was a good sense of humor on a SeaCraft site! NO, it was definitely the Float-on trailer that was being criticized. The Formula belonged to our friend, Doug, who made a couple Bahama trips with you & Unohu. I made 1.5 trips on this boat which seemed solid, although, I never encountered any real rough stuff in it. On one trip almost could have waterskied during trip back from West End.

I use strips of starboard countersunk and scewed to the top of all my trailer bunks now.
Round the corners and bevel the entry. It is very slick and makes any boat just slide right off as well as making them easy to drive on all the way to the bow stop. You don't need to wrap the bunk boards with carpet that way either. I also used silicon bronze screws.