Recoreing gunwhales
 

OK.... looked and got stumped searching ... long couple weeks ... but I have 12 days to plan and ensure I have the stuff I need for recoring my topcap on the MA.... I will be adding rod holders and pretty sure I was recommended 30 # foam core ???? also ... I will be filling in all the holes and will be replacing the bow light with a flip up and a single cleat for the bow.... I am thinking 8 " should handle the job for anchoring or mooring .... and will be adding the SS strips for rubbing .. ( when I figure out what they are called ) .. will epoxy or polyester be the best bet ... ??? and what mat do I need to go back over this with.. I plan to add 4 rod holder to the forward of the original outrigger holders also.... ( going back with them ) I have access to 2 local glass suppliers.. they carry different brands and 1 is very reasonable being a small family run supply house ...
Thanks for the help !! getting very excited to get some things done on my baby and the new engine hung !!!

[QUOTE=RUSTYNTABATHA;242537]OK.... looked and got stumped searching ... long couple weeks ... but I have 12 days to plan and ensure I have the stuff I need for recoring my topcap on the MA.... I will be adding rod holders and pretty sure I was recommended 30 # foam core ???? also ... I will be filling in all the holes and will be replacing the bow light with a flip up and a single cleat for the bow.... I am thinking 8 " should handle the job for anchoring or mooring .... and will be adding the SS strips for rubbing .. ( when I figure out what they are called ) .. will epoxy or polyester be the best bet ... ??? and what mat do I need to go back over this with.. I plan to add 4 rod holder to the forward of the original outrigger holders also.... ( going back with them ) I have access to 2 local glass suppliers.. they carry different brands and 1 is very reasonable being a small family run supply house ...
Thanks for the help !! getting very excited to get some things done on my baby and the new engine hung !!![/QUOTE

The hardware you describe will be fine. Around the rod holders I would build it up to at least a 1-1/2".thick core. That is depending on what you are doing.. We sword dish here and have some heavy rods we use and well our rod holders wanted to pullout of the deck cap on a 40' lurhs...with that said I would think 30# core is over kill since you would probably want to through bolt your rod holders the just sink a screw in it. I use 15# core with two layers of 17/08 and one layer of 1.5 oz mat... Are you coring from the top or pulling off and recoring from bottom? In either case that is what I would use.. 1/2 20# coosa is plenty strong enough. But I would double up around rod holders and your cleat areas...I use 1/2 10# diab foam for my decks. And 3/4" foam for my hatches. All polyester resin....epoxy was used for transom core only and reattachment of deck cap on the 23...

I abuse my rod holders and plan to hang international 80's in the corners on occasion deep dropping when the weather cooperates ... I am removing the cap and going thru the bottom.... I also plan to install foam supports under the gunwhale and secure them to the hull as well for supporting them in ruff water as well as walking on them front to back .... which I tend to do a lot .... so 11/2" foam all the way may be the way I go so as to keep the holders form leaving .... I also plan to use them for temp shade pole holders for the grandbaby when were not running ...

Ss rubrail hollow back,or solid flat back..the cheapest I found was at cruiser marine .com they were the cheapest and had long 20' pieces they pre drill them in the shop. Get 316L ss. The guys were very nice to deal with... Hope this helps some.

Hey Btw what was the specs on the ootis 135s... I have twin 150 carb motors on my 23 cc and was wondering what kind of numbers I could achieve from them motors

That sounds like a great plan going from the bottom.. I vac bagged nida coreon my 20 seacraft... Pia but it helped speed the process...make sure you bevel all your edges some so that you have a nice transiton back to glass. I do believe though the 20 gunnels are narrow so you may want to fill the whole area.. Just make sure you have enough area to bond back to deck cap fiberglass. In other words encapsulate the foam...and careful not to lay to much on the inside lip as that is where it has to drop over the hull...sorry for the misspelling .I'm writing from my phone

Hatches I just recorded for a friend..

Just read your post again.. You where talking about the anchoring chaffng strips..tapered on both ends???

yep... haven't been able to find a proper name for them...
I have 2 composite shops local 1 being advanced plastics... cant remember the name of the other but they are cheaper being a mom and pop joint...
I'm Hoping to possible do a few other things while im doing the glass work.. im sweating the deck drains with the weight of the v4 but the budget isn't there for raising the deck...
I never hung the optis ... I need to change that... they have been sitting on around inside and outside ... tried to sell them and the tool backed out after leaving them outside at a BRP mechanic that told him they weren't worth the time or money...

Optis
 

What year are they and do they run???

2000 .. They did when I bought them ...

30lb core is a bit overkill for rod holders, but you would not need backing plates if you used that dense of a core

I use and recommend epoxy, its just a guaranteed bond. one layer of 1708 is all you need, you can even use one layer of DB1200 if your using epoxy (epoxy does not require mat)

You have 3 :) our shipping is free and Im here answering questions pretty regularly

sometimes called chaffing strips

Thanks Shine ... whats the cost for the estimated epoxy and mat ... shipping on a sheet of core is probably pretty high I would assume... just found out COOSA is made right here in Alabama... so im going to try to use it if its not too heavy !! I priced polyester resin at one of the shops... they were 108.74 for 5 gal kit ... didn't price the epoxy as I was thinking about using polyester.... if epoxy would be better ( more idiot proof ) ill go that route ...

epoxy is $168 for a 3 gallon kit, shipping is free

The biax/mat prices depend what weight/width you use, but the prices are quite low

Its the same for 1 or 5 sheets, about $150 to send to AL

Thanks Shine ... Ill let you know !!