1978 Seacraft 20MA newbie
 

Just wanted to post the new project. I've been on this forum always browsing tempted to rebuild my own Seacraft. I came across an opportunity and jumped on the rare 1978 Seacraft 20 master angler. I'm open to anyone's advice or pointers on past experiences.

I'll update the thread with progress pictures as I get them. I won't be doing the glass work but I will be doing the rigging.

Thanks

Here's another

Raise the transom to 25" if you're not going with a bracket

Thanks. I plan closing the transom and adding a bracket. Want to power it with Yamaha 200 I4. I'm also thinking of going with a smaller tank then the original. I'm still in the planning phase. Thank you for the input. Keepem coming

who trimmed the cap?

Honestly I don't know. Previous owner said he did. His reason was because he wanted to lower the cap height and give it a better look. I'm hoping my glass guy can get things lined up right. Have you seen this done before with other seacrafts? I've seen others raise the floor but haven't seen cut caps.

I've seen people raise the caps a few inches, but never lower them on a 20MA.

the best job on cutting the cap is done by the guys that make the conch boats.... they have done a few ... but the sole reason I searched for my MA was the taller gunwhales .... great project .. good luck !!

Thanks for the info. I know some of the guys that do work for conch boats. I'll ask them for some guidance. I'm also thinking of using a conch console or just cutting the original console to make some space.

I have tried on a couple occasions to get a console from someone like them... but I guess I'm going to have to build on as they never get back with me too price one... the R and R guys build incredible boats !!.. and that have built a couple really cool seacrafts !

FYI - Since you're in the planning phase, better plan on moving gas tank, batteries and console as far forward as possible! Don't know if you've read my post on the subject, but a bracket, heavy motor and smaller gas tank on a 20 are all moving in the direction to adversely affecting CG/balance, self bailing capability and ride of the boat! If CG isn't corrected, you can expect a min planing speed in the low 20's. As originally designed and powered, these boats would plane at about 12 mph, which is a big deal if you plan to run offshore in big seas!

How forward? I plan on going with a 50 Gallon tank, Original console and storing 3 batteries inside the console. I had planned on moving them forward. I was reading your thread just the other day but never finished it. I just don't want to go too forward and affect other performance aspects.

What "other performance aspects" are you concerned about?

About the only performance advantages I can see in a bracket is the claimed 2-3 mph increase in WOT speed in flat water, which comes at the expense of ride and low speed planing capability. You gain WOT speed due to the CG shift caused by moving motor ~30" aft, which raises the bow, reducing wetted surface and drag. My experience is that when you apply the necessary band aids (AV plate fin & 4B prop) to regain low speed planing capability and good ride, you'll lose most of the WOT speed you gained with the bracket! So all the bracket really buys you is a bit more room in the boat AND the safety of a solid transom (which IS a significant improvement if you run offshore very much!)

What you're really asking about is how much should you shift the CG, if any? I would never claim to be smarter than Carl Moesly who designed these boats after decades of boat building, flying and racing experience, so I'd try to keep the CG as close to the design point as possible!

Here's what I'd recommend to calculate an approximate distance to move stuff:
1. Assume the as-designed CG was at the center of the fuel tank. (As a veteran pilot of military transports, Moesly knew how important it was to not change trim as you burn off fuel!)
2. Assume the design motor weight was 300 lbs, on transom, with a single battery at stbd chine just ahead of transom. The design "Motor moment" is (300 lbs) X (distance from transom to center of fuel tank).
3. Use weight of new motor (not the advertized "dry" weight, but "wet" weight including oil & gear lube @ 7.3 lbs/gal, plus weight of the cowling) plus the bracket setback dimension to calculate a new "Motor Moment".
4. The increase of the motor moment, in ft-lbs, is what you'll want to offset by moving batteries, fuel tank, console, etc. so by knowing what all that stuff weighs, you should be able to figure out how far you'll have to move it.

BTW, when looking at these newer "light weight/large displacement" 4-stroke motors, remember that they got most of the weight savings by just removing iron cylinder sleeves! That means that if, for whatever reason (clogged filter, stuck anti-siphon valve, air leak, fuel hose kink), you ever starve the engine for fuel that leans out & overheats a piston and scuffs a cylinder, all it'll take to fix it is a new block! The days of a simple bore & hone plus piston replacement are history for those motors. That's why the modern DI 2-strokes, which achieve even lighter weight, quiet smokeless operation, and low fuel burn without that compromise, are worth a hard look IMHO!

I am concerned mostly that I would shift the weight too forward and the front of the boat would steer itself because it would dig.

I like the bracket not only for performance but I have two small children and would make it easier for snorkeling and sandbar days.

Thank you for taking the time to write all the above well explained information.

If you had a later model 23 Sceptre made by SeaCraft Industries, I'd say you had a valid concern, as those boats appeared to be a bit bow heavy. Plywood was used for the core in the decks and bunks instead of the balsa core used on the Potter models. Restorations of some 23 Sceptre's on this site have also revealed pig iron pig iron ballast under the deck in the stern. However that's definitely not a problem on a 20, especially a CC model. My Seafari, with the cabin, bunks and head up forward, has more weight forward than the CC models, but I've never had a problem with bow steering or too much weight forward, even when I had a light 300 lb motor on the transom! In fact, on the half dozen trips I made to the Abacos, I've normally wanted even more weight forward, despite the fact that I already had all sorts of gear crammed in the cabin! On those trips I typically put a 70 qt cooler in the stepdown forward of the fuel tank to get more weight up front!

I do a lot of diving too and the swim platform on the bracket is great for that. The closer the platform is to the waterline, the easier it will be to use. Don Herman has the mounting height on his bracket dialed in very well . . . the swim platform about 2" above waterline, but that drops to zero when a couple of guys stand on platform.

Reinforce Bushwacker on steering by the bow. I don't think these boats are likely to steer by the bow under almost any conditions. In my old Seafari 20(150 hp merc on the transom), we dived with 6 tanks in the well between the bunks, a huge amt of weight forward, and the boat liked it, tended to stay in the water going fairly fast into steep chop.. It would punch through chop that would hammer your kidneys otherwise. No bow steering tendency at all.

Just an observation: 200 hp seems like way more power than you need. My 150 merc was plenty for 3 divers, 10 tanks, 150 lb ice, 52 gallons of fuel, etc etc, 25 knots cruise in flat water. The boat was designed for more like 100.

Do this
 

I wouldn't go any lower on the height of cap because or you'll get pryed off the boat in rough seas. my 21' has the cap with liner which has no room for "toe kick" yours has wider gunwale tops also nicer to walk on .close transom move console up to floor storage compartment with batt in front . Flip engine splash well so floor is extended to walk on keep live well under lean to or you could buy mine done and save the headache 😊good luck with the build

I can't trim the cap more then it already is and wouldn't even if I could. I'm not happy the previous owner cut them but I'll live with it.

Yours is very nice but I'm going to stick with the experience of a rebuild.

Anyone know why the 20MA has a drain whole through the hull for the front compartment? My first guess is that someone had used it as a bait well. I would assume the storage compartment would drain into the hull but this one has the hole right through the hull

My 1979 MA has the thru hull fitting/drain. Quite certain it is factory and with a screen fitting would work well as a baitwell. Hope this helps.

Vezo, Part II

I think the consensus around here is that you will be happier with an Etec 115. I have a Yamaha F100 I4. That's tail heavy. You want a 200. I run with tanks ahead of console, batteries in console and lifting prop and fin. That's about right for trim. The boats are light and efficient, and not beamy. I would seriously consider a different outboard. The handling of the boat is only legendary if you rig it correctly. If not, then it won't be.

I know this seems harsh, but guys like bushwacker and others have tried it all. They really do know what they are talking about plus they have written eloquently about it, which is s very valuable resource here.

Overboard drain. That, I believe, is a fishbox. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! I'm in the process of replacing/filling mine. Trying to find a fitting which is gonna have to be for a 2-1/4" thickness. Read some posts about there not being any reinforcement between the fishbox and the hull, but, mine does, plywood. If I can't find a fitting, I'm filling it.

So far floors are out. Crazy how the original floor lasted this long. This is the ugly part. I went with a new 62 gallon tank which fit perfect. I'll have the access hatch inside the center console. Next is clean up, sand down the bilge area and paint.

Heres an updated pic on my progress. Closed transom with live well, new floors, tank Etc.

Going to be a little different...

1979 Master Angler
 

Your 78 did not have a "coffin" for the fuel cell glassed to the deck? Interesting.

Nope!. Wish it did. Would have made things a bit easier.The previous owner had a 100 Gallon tank in it that wasn't installed. Don't know what he would have needed that much gas for but that tank almost took up space from bow to stern. Glassed in some new support walls etc. Went with a new 62 gallon tank.

I believe that my tank was 68-70 gallons, the larger option over the 40 or so. I'm going to replace with same. Keep up the good work. Any word from your boys at Conch? They do some really cool shit over there. I'd be interested in their opinion ( and Price ) of bringing that cap back.

Vezo.

I don't know the conch guys just someone that works with/for them.As for the Cap I'm ok with it lowered. I've accepted it. Almost like a hybrid between an SF and MA now. I mostly do inshore fishing and some reef fishing but ill venture out on calm days, then hit the sandbar with the kids. I'm excited for the end result.

Just sharing my progress. Got it sitting a new trailer and on its way to glass in the console, fabricate TTOP and leaning post. Still on the fence if i should do Bolsters.

Picked up from Hermco a new Bracket. Let me tell you that when I purchased his bracket it was on pure Seacraft FORUM feedback and i wasn't let down.

I spent days traveling the streets of Miami and would just hear the negativity on going with a fiberglass bracket. Since i enjoy going against the grain and followed everyone's feedback I can honestly say I am very Happy with it.

I have show it to many well qualified fabricators and they were impressed with his workmanship and gave it an A+

Here are some pics...

Any pics of the bracket? Paint/finish look great!!!

Vezo

Bracket will be installed this Saturday. Ill also have T-TOP and Leaning post in by next week. Ill update with new pictures.

As promised here it is with the HERMO bracket installed. TTOP and Leaning post have been painted and will be installed tomorrow. Cant wait to get it wet!

Did your aluminum fabricator save specs of top and post, or is it a one off? Hard to invision but I think I'm going to like it. Keep us posted!

Vezo

beautiful!

It's one off. I made a few modifications to a previous one they did. I have kids so I needed some shade but not a fan of bimini tops plus the extra rod holders are great. I know not everyone has the same taste and style but I'll post some more pics soon.

Thanks

Ironman I think it's a stroke of genius for the previous owner to cut the cap. You get the benefit of the M/A cap and deck with the dead sexy S/F shearline. Imho the best of both worlds. That's how they would lay them out today if SeaCraft was still in business.

Keep posting pics, boat looks really good. Also if you want another guy with some good info on bracketed 20s look up Ole Parker aka caymanboy
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=25882

When I first found the hull i was like uhhhh what happened here? But yeah i do like the hand rails and the sleek look. Best of both worlds.

Ok here are some more pics.

Picked it up today and leaning post was too tall. No biggie, fabricating a new one this week. On its way to get some more cables run through it.

here is a quick update. I still have some details to finish like trim tabs, self bailing setup, bow rod holders, windshield, live well etc but she is sea worthy!

Very happy with how it turned out.

I have to give thanks to the guys at international marine in boynton beach,FL. These guys did nice clean work installing the engine and rigging. They also custom made my ocean grip in the front and helm pad.

Can't forget about the custom laser etched Seacraft switch panel with boca tech switches.

The Suzuki 200 paired with the hermco bracket is a match made in heaven! Gets up on plane quick.

I definitely enjoyed the maiden voyage while jamming to the Wetsounds sound system.

Thank you to everyone that commented and gave your wise opinions. They were all read and given consideration through my process. This was a learning experience for me that had some ups and downs but overall a learning experience I'll never forget.