Transom issue need help
 

Hey guys found this crack when I took the cover off the boat I saw a small crack under the aluminum transom cover took it off and found this. Is it possible to get it though the season with some kind of a repair and then redo the transom next winter or am I toast?

The odds are 100% your transom wood is mush!!! Not to be too much of a smart ass, I'm thinking butter and grape jelly with the toast. You can't take a chance of more damage and as you know the safety of the family is the most important factor!!!

Thanks yeah safety is number one for me I take it offshore to fish for giant tuna so safety is paramount.

Safe bet if you live where things freeze, that's what happened !

Wet transom froze = Shot transom !!

I would not risk it !

Toast... Probably been that way for a while so you are on borrowed time. The good news is that you get to go composite and if done right you will never have to worry about it again. Start stocking up on the baby powder as it keep you from getting so itchy when you're grinding.

I see Seacast talked about with good success by people on thehulltruth.com, its not that expensive and can be done by someone who is mechanically inclined.

http://www.transomrepair.net/

Thank you

I used Arjay on my transom and "Skipper Tee" (Bowrider'65) used the Seacast. I'm happy with mine and as with all boat repairs remember rule #1, it's all in the "prep work"!!! If there is any doubt refer to rule #1!!!

I see you have an 83 hull, so do I. I'd be interested in what under there.
pic of mine from 4 years ago.

Don you did the seacast ??? how far to each side did you go ???

Those transom trim caps are responsible for more failures than I can count.

Albury glasses theirs on top for this very reason.

"transom issue" - "issue" ? that's a problem ! it's been like that for a long time ....

You can plate it or use C channel and run essentially indefinitely if the metal properly takes the load, which is what I did.

Thanks for the input I will put some shots up once I get into it. Anyone know a good place 5o have it done near cape cod? Unfortunately I don't have the time to get into it myself right now

FibFab in Orleans. 508-255-9409. Give Bob a few days to get back to you.

I responded on THT. I'm local to you if I can offer any help let me know

did some research and there are several pourable repair company's .... seacast is the lightest at 6.7 # per gal... nida and arjay are 7.1-7.3 # per gal.... I also read of several DIY blends to make your own... then got to thinking ... if you can add balloons to resin ..... why could I not add them to this stuff.... MOre reading I guess ...

Just saw that thank you I will be home on the Cape this weekend if you are around and feel like having a look.

Thank you I have been looking into that a bit do you know how it stands up over time?

depends on who you ask ... a end user or seller... there are several builders using this as their transom for new builds.... I want strong .. and light ... and to last about 5 years .... that's when I plan to go into the transom and floor .... several people with MANY years of use on a pourable with great results .... some not so good .... pretty sure it is in the prep and detail when you do it ..

I could never see how you could get a good bond using a pourable transom, to me it just seems like you could never prep the surfaces correctly.

It's easy. take off the transom skin, remove the mush and prep the inside and outer surfaces properly and you WILL have a good bond. One of the secrets to the Arjay is how they are able to keep the cure temperature at a steady level, I think 180 degrees, not positive of the number. If you poured that much mixed regular fiberglass resin in a closed area the heat would be crazy. When I did my 23 I was amazed how thin the inner skin was, basically a moisture barrier, the transom skin was a different story.

Thank you for the help I'm adding a Hermco bracket and enclosing the transom can't wait to see how she comes out. I will post some pics when she's back in action

J

I never liked pourable transoms either but do think they work well tho.

Long as you got good glass on either side of the core, the center core don't matter as much. Most of the strength is in the skins on either side.

I started believing in it more after the scarab with the triple 400+ HP outboards did his with that stuff. He has like 1200 HP and over 1500 lbs of outboard on his and can run 80 something and hasn't had issues with his poured transom yet.

Would I ever do one, NO. But are they a method that will work and suffice. YES

I'm about 95% ready to do the pourable transom. I took the outer skin off in order to remove the mush that was there but to also have the inner and out skin that will be in contact with the pourable nice and clean. I plan to go with Arjay and I should be ready hopefully by this weekend and if the weather holds out.

And I agree that it is the prep work that makes the difference ...and on this one I have been more that diligent to the point I may be over doing it.

The main question I have is how much and what kind off glass do I use on the outside to have it nice and strong and smooth ?


Pictures and results to follow