1977 Seafari 2006 Etec 150
 

Well my first turn key boat is running flawlessly. However, my first boat I have not rigged myself. Number one battery is draining when accidentally left on overnight. It took a charge nicely but is not dependable. Number two performs like a "house" or deep cycle. Number one is marked ?/2014 so is questionable at best, located under starboard rear seat, and appears to be running everything. Have not investigated number two located under the helm seat.

Entire gauge package identical to my 1999 Johnson, including tach, speedo (?), amps (charging at 14 when running), fuel and the old system check. Hydraulic (SeaStar) steering was Kicking My Ace, at first. Seems like seven turns lock to lock, and took forever for me to stop over steering!?!

Worst part of first days with new ride is the tach is not accurate. Comfortable cruise, tach said 58 revs, and I knew this should be about top. Stayed away from it all day, finally running at 42, then 4, and at 38 she was JUST about to fall off plane!?! Thinking I had the wrong prop, I was disappointed all day. So with little traffic, I headed in the HB canal, and put her to the pins!!! Ran even better that the 99 175! Look down at tach and I'm spinning 72-7400 rpms! Yeah right. Never hit a rev limiter and she sounded perfect. She's quick!

Now I'm thinking of pulling every gauge and possibly mounting 94sv in this custom fabbed dash panel from PO. Pics to follow.

Vezo, Part II

Does your tach have the switch for 3, 4 or 6 cylinder engines on the back?

Yes, it would be safe to assume.

Without sounding stupid (uh-huh), or removing cowling and counting cylinders, is this not a V-6?

Swap yer battery switches to Blue Sea Systems Add-a-Battery...
and like Don said check the tach's cylinder setting. Hope it's as simple as a bad ground.

That's a scary rigging job...

Yes and look for a tan tab on back of tach.
Set to 6.

Denny sees close to 50 with his.
Dahhh

Thanks Sandy. She sits well at rest...no plumbing issues? Oh, and the anti-ventilation plate is flush with bottom!!!

Part II

Ya know those Seafaris are really nice looking boats!! :) Ya did good!

Thanks Don. Yes I was excited even after a six week negotiation by phone. This baby is well thought out. Just gotta get into her head a bit.

Nice! She's a beauty alright! Dang it, I want my own dock.

Now raise that motor a couple of holes and hang on!
What prop are you using?
More pics please! & include some pics of the electrical, too. I'm really curious of the numbers.

Enjoy!

That baby looks nice!

Michael,
I believe the rev limiter on that motor is set at a little over 6000 rpm, so your tach is indeed way off. I wouldn't waste time screwing around with that analog tach! Even if you get it on the correct switch setting, analog tachs are notoriously inaccurate, so it could still be off by 200-300 rpm! That's too much to accurately select the right prop. I'd recommend getting a 3.5" I-Command gauge or if you're gonna buy a fancy NMEA compatible chart plotter, just hook it up to that. If you have the system check tach with the lights on it, you may already have the Engine interface cable that you'll need. Here's a link to the Installation Manual that will show you what's needed.

I believe you said that motor was actually a 2007 model? If model no. is DPXSUC, it's the same as mine, so the optimum rpm range is 5300-5500. Gillie's right, I think it's mounted too low, so need to correct that before considering a prop change. I'd raise it a couple holes and try to get a pic of the AV plate when you're up on plane. Plate should be above solid water when at cruise. Put some black electrical tape on top of AV plate because that white plate is hard to see if it's under white water! (See second pic below) I've since raised it another 1/2 inch since 3rd picture was taken. I've picked up at least 100 rpm and 1-2 mph since I raised motor almost 3 inches from where I had been running it for years. That's enough that I can now turn a SS 4B 14.5 x 15P BRP Cyclone prop up to 5400-5450 rpm. It evidently has more cup than the larger 4B SS 15x15 PowerTech prop I've been running for a couple years because the "smaller" Cyclone turns about 100 rpm slower at WOT, but gives 1-2 mph more speed! It's a very efficient prop with good stern lift, and cruise MPG is over 4.0, at least 0.25 mpg better than the PT prop at the same mph.

Thank you Denny, how are you? I think I'm going to spend the $225 on a Bobs Machine 5 in 1 manual jack plate rather than playing the one hole at a time game. Respectable run yesterday between showers and tach worked flawlessly trimmed and minimal tabs she stuck at 5800, as I remember from original sea trial. Boat freaking flies. Though probably a little heavier than the MA, she seems much more aerodynamic and feels faster.?.

I am having trouble learning most efficient way to get her on plane. I'm not a fan of dole fin additions, but could see a four blade lifting eventually. Mine is stamped 6/06 and mine seems to steer much further than your engine/steering you addressed with yours. Can't understand that one at all.

Prop is a SS Viper with no stamped measurement, unless inside and I cannot see it while at the dock.

As you said, for $300 or so I may like to mount the I-Command gauge in addition to the 94sv because I liked the information constantly available. If Ken says its duplication, then I'll skip it. Not sure if he monitors as closely, or if it's only a button away. Anywho, thanks for your input Denny. Always nice to hear from you.

Michael.

Thanks Captain Nate, she came from your neck of the woods. Previous owner lived in Seminole but boat was High and Dry behind the old original SeaCraft dealer was. She was refitted by Yacht Doctors?, also in St. Pete?

Denny, my model number is E150DSLSUF, whatever that means. I don't like not being familiar with my engine. Thanks for the installation link.

Michael, I added a jack plate because it was the only way to get my motor high enough (AV plate is 6.0" above keel!) without a major change to the bracket, but in your case it's a waste of money IMHO. Increasing the setback on a heavy motor on the 20' hull is bad idea because it will make the boat tend to porpoise, make it harder to plane, tend to hurt the ride, and installing a jack plate is a lot more work than just raising the motor a couple of holes, especially if you have a trailer with a tongue jack on it! Just ask Capt. Terry what hole the 20" E-TEC is mounted in on his '76 Seafari - no trial and error process required! To raise motor, just lower tongue jack, put a block of wood under skeg, loosen lower mount bolts, pull top bolts, then crank up tongue jack till top bolts align with desired mount hole, and then reseal and reinstall bolts.

The Seafari will feel different from a MA, not only because it's a bit heavier with most of the extra weight further forward, but also because the hull is noticeably stiffer in bending and torsion. The cabin top and bulkhead tie the two hull sides together, plus the tall coaming on the sides stiffens it in the fore and aft direction. Sandy has said several times that in a rough chop, my boat has a more solid feel to it than his SF model.

The Viper prop is BRP's bow-lifting high speed prop, good for bass boats, but probably not what you want if running offshore in rough seas where you want to be able to hang on plane at low speed for the most comfortable ride, which requires a stern lifting prop. If the 5800 WOT rpm is accurate, you're underpropped, since the optimum is 5300-5500 for a 2007 motor. My guess is that it's a 14.75 X 17P Viper, P/N 176626 or 763914 (2-piece TBX hub). Should be able to see PN inside the aft hub, just above the nut. Next time you're out, try trimming motor all the way down and see how slow you can run and still hang on plane. A 4B Cyclone, probably a 14.5x15P, will hang on plane at lower speed, have a much stronger hole shot and better mpg than the Viper, although it might cost you a couple mph in top speed.

Since I'm a performance oriented guy, I like being able to monitor a bunch of engine stuff all the time, and I don't think I'd like having to keep pushing buttons to switch a chart plotter back and forth between engine info and chart or depth sounder. My 2 large and 2 small I-Command gauges are programmed allow me to continually monitor rpm, water temp, % throttle, mpg, trim position, fuel level, fuel burned and range on remaining fuel.

The model code translates as follows: D=E-TEC, S=Saltwater Edition, L=20" Shaft (X=25"), SU=2007, F=Model Run or suffix. My S/N is 05147575, so probably earlier than yours and it's a 25" shaft instead of 20", so about 15 lbs heavier than yours. Denny

The Seafari has more beef in many places than the SF. The MA as well with that big box cap.

I can not scream loudly enough how much prop design can affect your smile.
I had a pos house mouse eared Mich Match on Wide OPen when I got her.
She went to the sky on hole shot and porpoised a bit.
Felt like some cruel joke conjured on the island of misfit toys.

When I tried a Mirage +, I thought this cant be happening.
It was that dramatic.
My ass lifted, and she just screwed.

As freaks, we are constantly chasing props.

If you are trimmed in and still losing the horizon on lift off,
you have a bow lifter.

I like getting some speed easily on take off and then come up.
Be nice to your wrist pins please

It`s a SeaCraft, not a Paramount, no need to carry the bow.

Well after hours of watching, more Chic Ultras, and the skeg slowly lowering, I decided to try the manual bilge switch, which was hard wired, and did not require the ignition. I cannot explain this exactly, but I found a significant leak at the elevation of deck and live well. Decided to pull the boat, check tide. Yup 20 minutes to low. Jackass Jockey Game Time.

Got the hull cradled and started winching up to bow eye, with second axle hanging over the end of ramp and she is full. Slowly wait and use the tide to get her up.

There is a bronze thru hull fitting for filling bait well. Found that in line valve OPEN, assuming from sea trial. Once closed, manual bilge began pumping out properly. Now the float switch did not appear to be functioning. But she eventually pumped herself dry and once on the trailer I pulled her above high tide line and removed the Garboard plug. Not sure how much rain we received overnight, but I know what I would have found this morning. She was sinking and I was friggin watching!!!

Hey Magillicutty, the dock is nice, but not exactly the reason I stole this foreclosed HUD home, haha.

Michael,

A reliable automatic bilge pump is an absolute must-have on any boat you leave in the water overnight, but I'm sure you've learned that by now! Post some pics of your bait well set up. My bait well under the port stern seat holds about 15 gallons when full, so it significantly affects height of scuppers above waterline! A bronze thru-hull was not part of the OEM design in my boat, so you may have some sort of aftermarket rig. I've never seen one of the original Moesly pump-less circulating live well's in a later model Seafari, but maybe they were an option. I'd also check the condition of the brass vertical scupper tubes; look for deterioration of the flare where they come thru the bottom. Before I replaced mine, my big 2000 gph auto bilge pump would come on about every 15 minutes and pump out about 5 gallons!

Also post some pics of the steering cylinder setup on your motor. You've got me interested in seeing what's different about yours. I installed one of the older longer stroke slider-type cylinders but I only measured about 4% more motor rotation because it mounts further out on tiller bar. Denny

Sheesus, Part II you're killing me - your own ramp too? and drive thru storage? I gotta get out of So. Cal... Is that at Hernando Bch?

The guys made a good point about how to gain a hole-shot. Swap the prop.
In the BRP world, the Rebel or the Cyclone will serve you better in every way except top speed. As Denny and Sandy noted, the Viper is a bow lifter. SeaCraft wants its tail lifted - the hull does the rest.

Shit, is the Viper seriously a bow lifter? No wonder it's requiring some tab no matter of engine trim.

Discovered a non- contacting service in the Perko battery selector. Go straight to Both then back to One!

Discovered raw water pick-up sea-cock was also open, as well as the plastic T inline valve. Yesterday's rain seems to have had no effect on skeg lowering. At rest, I think she slowly took water on up to the base of the on deck live well. Then began leaking into bilge. She would have kept this up until she was on the bottom this morning.

Filled boat with freshwater waiting for float to activate, when I found number one batt not connecting, flipped to both and bilge activated. Now I have no reason to believe float is hard wired. Is this even possible???
Thank God I bailed on the Bimini trip a while back!!!
Hey Gillie, still some deals out here in HB!.!

The Raker is actually BRP's bass boat prop, so even more of a bow lifter than the Viper, which is listed as a "general purpose bow lifting prop" on Pg 10 in BRP's prop selection guide. However as Gillie says, the 20' SeaCraft hull was designed for a light motor of 300 lbs or less, but since most modern motors in the 100-150 hp range tend to weigh around 400 lbs or even closer to 500 lbs on many 4-strokes, the heavier motors work best on a SeaCraft with a stern lifting prop that will help offset the engine weight. I didn't recommend the Rebel, because although it is a stern lifting prop with very large heavily cupped blades much like the Merc Mirage, my dealer says the small block 2.6L V-6 can't spin it fast enough, so it's typically used on the bigger 3.3-3.4L 200-300 hp motors. I've run the 14.5" x 15" pitch Cyclone and it turns 5400-5450, so it's the perfect prop for a an early 150 E-TEC on a Seafari. The optimum rpm on later 150 E-TECs is higher, up around 5500-5800 so the Cyclone has a little too much pitch for them.

I forgot that your boat evidently has a leaning post-type live well, so I'd put some water in it and make sure it's not leaking into the bilge. I think a bilge pump should be wired direct to the battery with it's own separate fuse, because I like to be able to shut off everything else on the boat with the battery switch when I'm not aboard.

20' Seafari ETEC 150 Engine Height
 

Michael-
After the dealer raised the engine twice I raised it to hole #4 (the bottom hole) using Bushwacker’s method. The engine is at max height without re-drilling the transom. My transom has two sets of mount holes: the original from the 1976 Merc 150, then the last must be from the 1985 Merc 150. The current top hole is about two inches above the original set. A more precise way to tell you where the engine is, as close as I can measure it, is 2" higher than if it were sitting flat on the aluminum extrusion on top of the transom. Measuring the height of the A/V plate above the keel may not be too accurate the way my boat sits on the trailer: my results about 1.5". I don't have a current photo of the A/V plate underway, but it looks similar to what Bushwacker recently posted. I could possibly go another hole higher, but am satisfied with the current results. I am running the ETEC 150 HO which at WOT should run 5500-5600 and up to 5800 rpm lightly loaded. For watersports I am running a SST High Five 5B 13.5" x 17P prop at 41.2mph at 5710rpm WOT (lightly loaded, two people, half tank, bimini down). Last week with three people in the boat, lots of food & beverages, and barefoot boom I pulled a 185# barefooter at almost 40 mph. .Same engine height and similar test conditions on the SST Cyclone 4B 14.5" x 15P was 40.8mph at 5280rpm (so the speed was not bad, but the engine was not reving fast enough The performance of the Cyclone was good and it picked up speed much more quickly than the High Five, but it gave me more speed variation at 18mph for wakeboarding and did not rev high enough. Bushwacker liked my Cyclone on his ETEC 150 on his Seafari. The Powertech 4B 15” x 15P (same conditions again) gave me 38.0mph at 5340 rplm WOT.













.

If not for my friend Paul, I'd never have. Been sitting here here for beer yesterday. Today she would have been on the bottom. Pulled her last night and she survived the BS rain. Today, I fortunately advised my new girl aft portion of skeg should be above WL 1 inch. Go to make a cocktail and BeeAtch lowered to trim mode. Electronically or hydraullicly. She's going back to the trailer until I can get this sh!t figured..

F'in Weber activates up at same time. Hardly used. One in SC, one in HB. Only one of two models made in China... Friggin hungry!

Aluminum extrusion? Is that what I should call it next time I'm with you at Zig-Zags?

Just the check please.

Aluminum Extrusion
 

Michael-
Zig Zags? You must have me confused with one of the other Terrys. Maybe aluminum cap would have been more understandable. Most aluminum, unless cast or hogged from a billet, is extruded to get the final shape. For instance a sliding door track is an aluminum extrusion. Under high pressure the aluminum is forced through a die of the desired shape- kind of like squeezing tooth paste out of a tube.

You are correct, never take a new boat on a long trip. Check her out first where you can easily be towed if necessary. Sorry about your troubles, just think of all the stories you have for the next CSC gathering! A good looking boat, BTW. Of course I always thought the Seafaris were tops!

Apologies to each and all Terry's. I was being a SA over the aluminum plate over transom cap.

I'm dumbfounded with the issues I'm having with electrical, plumbing and now hydraulically. Got her safely on the trailer again last night. My OMC mechanic of twenty years is now telling me to drag her 300 miles back to SC. Almost makes sense now that my boating connection here is gone.

If I have a short in Batt. One position, which appears to have everything in the stern connected to the positive, is it very possible, when turned to off the bilge pump is dead? And if so, then same for float switch?

Though my Refurbished 1982 Whaler 15 (sold), the 88 under construction, the 79 MA, and even my brothers Jersey Speed Skiff, all had much simpler systems, I watched/assisted with all installations. Feel pretty dumb expecting this one to be as new.

Spoke to Original Rebuilder...
 

He has gotten me dialed in...

He likes the prop that I'd like to replace. However, he had full working knowledge of bait well, as well as electrical, and was able to correct by memory.

Sea cock closed, and splitter "T", (red), closes of a bunch of way s to evacuate water from livewell. Apparently she floated from Fri to Mon w/out rain. Monday's rain had trailing edge of skeg sinking. Not near close enough to activate Float. Biggest mistake...she will not take on water with deck plugs pulled! Definition of self-bailing! Plugs in finds a way into bilge. My Bad.

Thank You All,

Vezo, Part II

turn·key ˈtərnˌkē
noun, archaic
1. a jailer.

adjective
1.of or involving the provision of a complete product or service that is ready for immediate use.

Sounds like the seller may have been the former and you are now in boat jail.

You need this:
http://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/boat...clickid=3x2988

Kind of a get out of jail free card. Best darn boat owners book out there...this one is old but the basic lessons remain true.

Cheers

Actually Gillie, it was my bad not contacting him immediately. Great guy, great intentions with every aspect of design and function. All I had to do was pull deck drain plugs and she doesn't take on a drop (on the deck, or anywhere else, for that matter). He was plagued by the idea of water leaking anywhere in the boat. Had it out many times overnight. Stayed on the phone until everything was explained and understood.

At a certain point, the deck filled until high enough to find a way into the bilge. Only thing I've lost is the starboard trim tab. Switch activates pump but no fluid making it to the piston actuator. Hope I didn't flood contacts while rinsing bilge with fresh water. All I can figure. Bow lifting prop definitely kicking my ACE!

I'm really digging my new sled!!!

Part II

Additional Photos of stern and dash
 

Denny, this pic may not be the best for your questions about the steering system, but I'm here until Monday.

Glad your enjoying the sled. Good to hear the previous owner is so helpful.
Sounds like you might have a bad solenoid on the starboard side of pump motor...or a loose/bad contact on back of control switch.

Good luck with troubleshooting.:cool:

The solenoid valve (Item 9 in parts list) for the starboard tab may be stuck or dead or the dash switch is acting up. Have someone activate the dash switch and check to see if you're getting voltage at the solenoid. If you're getting voltage (I assume you have a VOHM meter in your tool box? I never leave home without one!) then you need to replace the solenoid, which is easy to do. Bennett sells individual solenoids. You should also be able to download/print installation instructions and wiring diagrams from their web site.

If your cylinder is about 11 inches long, you have the same system I had, but if bolt connecting cylinder bracket to tiller arm is not installed in the aft most hole (of 3) in tiller arm it's not installed properly, so motor travel will be even less than mine! I switched to the older style/longer stroke slider type cylinder but only picked up about 4% in travel because it's installed in center hole of tiller arm. Not enough room to use the aft most hole due to thickness of slider bracket. Pics below show how far I could rotate motor after disconnecting cylinder. Note there is a bolt hole in tiller arm aft of the 2 existing bolts. Denny

I took a 2-day Diesel Engine course at Trawler Fest last year taught by 'ol Nigel and Steve Zimmerman. Nigel is a British chap and quite original at coming up with ways to trouble shoot and prevent problems, possibly due to a lifetime of contending with the vagaries of British engines on old sailboats, etc.! The course included one ~ 2hr exercise involving use of a VHOM meter to measure voltage drops and troubleshoot a simple DC circuit board. Although I've used such meters for years, it seemed to be a pretty useful exercise for the newbies in the class.

I wished I had taken the course a year earlier, when it was taught by Bob Smith, the engineer who lead the marinization of the legendary old English Ford tractor engine that's used on many old trawlers. His course was much more hands on and involved stuff like changing fuel pump and injectors on a Ford-Lehman engine! Attended a seminar he gave in 2014, and he's probably FORGOTTEN more about engines than most "Experts" will ever know! I chatted with him at length and found him to be a real nice down-to-earth guy that has a condo in NPB.

BTW Gillie, that's a screaming bargain on Calder's book . . . they were selling it at Trawlerfest for about $50! If I ever get myself a trawler, I'll probably buy one!

Gremlin has moved out of starboard trim tab pump and she ran nicely. However, I'm coming up two holes to top and researching props.

Bought this sled from a gentleman last named Bennet but he went with Lemco's.

Part II

lol Vezo, thats hilarious!

I married a woman whose last name was Hoover, needless to say we have a Hoover vacuum in our house = )

If you have Lenco trim tabs, there is no hydraulic pump . . . they're all electric! So problem is either in switch or actuator.

Somehow I've never understood the rationale for putting electric motors below the waterline in salt water and expecting a couple of o-rings to keep 'em dry!

I'm with ya 'ol Pappy on electricity and salt water, I had Lencos on my Pathfinder. I had one actuator go bad, bought two as replacements just in case. Only good thing about the Lencos, easy to replace the actuator. Not sure how easy it is to replace my Bennett tabs on my 'ol clunker SeaCraft, they have never failed. I guess after 30+ years of perfect service tells you all you need to know.

Don, I finally had to replace my Bennett actuators after almost 40 years, so you've probably got another few years to go! Might be worth periodically checking hydraulic fluid color. If it looks like a strawberry milkshake, it's time to change actuators! I had a solenoid valve fail, evidently due to saltwater in the hydraulic fluid. Don't know how long it had water in it but the 40 year old hydraulic pump was still working fine! The actuators were easy to replace - just disconnect hydraulic lines and brass nipples inside transom and then remove a few screws. Denny

As far as your bilge pump automatic activation goes, your automatic switch MUST be wired directly to 12v BEFORE the battery switch. You can wire directly to the battery, or you can wire it to the input side of the battery switch. The idea is to have 12v going to your automatic bilge switch even when both the batteries are turned off.

Far too may boats have sunk because the automatic bilge switch was wired to 12v AFTER the battery switch, resulting in completely disabling the automatic bilge pump function every time the batteries were turned off.

Similarly, I have TWO automatic bilge pumps in my bilge.
One is the original 1971 Rule Master 1750 gph with a new Rule Super Switch mounted at the bottom of the bilge below the motor and connected directly to battery #1.
The other is a Johnson 1100 gph automatic pump with magnetic switch mounted 5" up on the center stringer, and connected directly to battery #2.

Thanks Denny, I had the tabs off when I re-did the transom, pretty easy, I did go with a 1" longer brass nipple through the transom, easier to work with. I do have a spare cylinder I bought at a nautical flea market for like $5 many years ago. I figured what the heck for $5, thankfully never had to use it.