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-   -   Evinrude Gremlin (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=28209)

rcnight 08-16-2016 05:58 PM

Evinrude Gremlin
 
I was running in this past weekend trying to outrun the approaching storm when my 1997 Evinrude 150 went from 5k to 0 rpms in a few seconds. No fault lites and no warning of oncoming problem, ran fine all day. A passing boater was kind enough to tow us the remaining mile or so. Tried to start it on the way in with no luck. Would crank but wouldn't fire. I went out to the boat today to check for spark and it cranked right up. I did replace the kill switch recently. I checked the wiring and all good. What would cause such a rapid cut-off? Any ideas on what and where to look?

thehermit 08-16-2016 06:26 PM

Start by looking at your kill switch again. That would do it. I think it's the black and yellow trace wire that kills the spark.

TomParis 08-16-2016 06:35 PM

I have a 1999 Evinrude FICHT, and it has been overall operating fine for me, but on occasion it will do something similar and just without warning cutoff. Usually after a minute of sitting it will start again and go the rest of the way without anymore failures. It is very odd for sure.

natecert 08-17-2016 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehermit (Post 246048)
Start by looking at your kill switch again. That would do it. I think it's the black and yellow trace wire that kills the spark.

Correct it is that wire. Would suggest doing a visual on the wire and all connections involved with the kill circuit. Also try running on mufs and wiggle all the wires in the start/run kill circuits. You may get lucky.

Recommend to invest in a good multi meter. Fluke or field-piece would be my preference. If you want to PM me I can help you with picking the model out.

HVAC is my trade and electric trace down is my fav. thing.
Ed

76Red18 08-17-2016 05:07 PM

Starting circuit wires as mentioned. My key switch would intermittently cause a loss of power. Had to replace it. Check your power pack ground wire. Black wire from pack to a coil mounting bolt. Clean both fine pin connectors at the top of the pack with alcohol or degreaser. NO dielectric grease or anything else on those on those connections. If the power pack is original, it could very well be failing. It can be troubleshooted with a manual and the right test equipment.

Capt Terry 08-17-2016 06:38 PM

Dirty Ignition Switches
 
Don't know if this happens on boats, but I once had a '68 Corvette that would occasionally die, coast to the side of the road, and then immediately restart. Then one day as I turned the key, it started until I let go of the key, had to keep some torque on the key to keep it running. With a paper towel and WD40 and pushing the key in & out, I washed a lot of debris out of the switch. Probably had the car 10-15 years more with no ignition switch problems thereafter. Probably not your issue, but a quick thing to try.

martin 09-08-2016 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Terry (Post 246065)
Don't know if this happens on boats, but I once had a '68 Corvette that would occasionally die, coast to the side of the road, and then immediately restart. Then one day as I turned the key, it started until I let go of the key, had to keep some torque on the key to keep it running. With a paper towel and WD40 and pushing the key in & out, I washed a lot of debris out of the switch. Probably had the car 10-15 years more with no ignition switch problems thereafter. Probably not your issue, but a quick thing to try.

68 vette... I'm drooling now

Capt Terry 09-09-2016 09:52 AM

Corvettes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by martin (Post 246535)
68 vette... I'm drooling now

The '68 Vette was purchased in late '69 shortly after college graduation, just a few days before I met my wife. She liked to remark we dated in that car for 30 years until a Suburban made an illegal left turn at an intersection. The first was a used '61 which I bought when I graduated from high school in '64. The next one was a used '65 fastback with a 365 HP 327 with no power anything on it. Just go fast, sweetest car I ever drove. No more Vettes, need boat towing vehicles now on the non-flat SC roads.

There's an important point here on the first two Vettes, we were not rich. My dad's philosophy was kids with too much time on their hands got into trouble. So he got car loans and I had to make the monthly payments- so worked grocery stores during school year and construction with him on holidays & the summer. Bought my first boat at age 14 with this same method- a much used 14' Lyman with a 35 HP Johnson.

rcnight 06-14-2017 10:24 AM

Evinrude Gremlin - Revisited
 
Gents - So my problem has resurfaced - 5000 rpms to 0. This time it stopped after 15 minutes. Checked the kill switch - good. Bypassed the switch all together - no spark on either banks. Turns over fine. Is there a easy check to do on the ignition switch before I get into the engine? I have noticed it will start easier with the throttle advanced as opposed in the neutral position. All suggestions appreciated.

thehermit 06-14-2017 04:28 PM

It shouldn't start with the throttle advanced at all. The yellow red tracer wire is to prevent that. Its a safety wire so it doesn't start in gear. It may turn over easier in an advanced throttle position due to the butterflys being open.

The yellow wire red tracer can kill it. you can bypass that switch (neutral safety switch) by tying them together but be careful it will then start in gear.

gofastsandman 06-14-2017 07:23 PM

Neutral safety switch maybe.

JUST JOHN 06-22-2017 02:19 PM

I've had very similar issues on my 2004 150hp Johnson.

FLexpat 06-22-2017 04:04 PM

Had very similar issues with an 07 150 ETEC - died like that a couple of times and the third or 4th time we had to jump in and swim the boat the last 1/2 mile to the dock. Turned out to be a defective ECU - apparently it would quit when it got warm but the last time was fatal for it. Replaced the ECU under extended warranty about a month before that went out.

captbone 06-27-2017 04:49 PM

I suspect the powerpack is failing.


You can disconnect the boat harness plugs and jump the starter to eliminate the key switch, kill circuit and boat wiring while the issue is happening.

erebus 07-02-2017 10:33 PM

1997? Is that a FICHT?

If it is, here's something to look at:
The engine computer on a FICHT is raw water cooled. Look at your ECM and if its got fins on it its air cooled, if its got hoses going to it its water cooled.
The passages that cool the ECM get clogged with scale and the ECM gets hot at high RPM's and starts to throw codes and kill the throttle.
Will idle all day but wont let you run around at high RPM's.

Fixed a couple here on the Cape by just taking the ECM off the motor and cleaning out the passageways. Worked every time.

Worth a shot at least.

pelican 07-03-2017 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erebus (Post 252350)
1997? Is that a FICHT?

If it is, here's something to look at:
The engine computer on a FICHT is raw water cooled. Look at your ECM and if its got fins on it its air cooled, if its got hoses going to it its water cooled.
The passages that cool the ECM get clogged with scale and the ECM gets hot at high RPM's and starts to throw codes and kill the throttle.
Will idle all day but wont let you run around at high RPM's.

Fixed a couple here on the Cape by just taking the ECM off the motor and cleaning out the passageways. Worked every time.

Worth a shot at least.

this is true - the EMM indeed is water cooled,however,when the EMM "cooler" is clogged - the motor will go into limp mode,dropping the RPM to 1,800,alarm will sound too

another point of clogging is in the fuel cell - fuel cell is sea water cooled as well

those problems are related to FICHT motors/DI motors - not sure if this is a FICHT motor

i'm guessing a "gremlin" is an intermittent problem ? the motor shuts down,and refires after sitting a few ?

Bushwacker 07-03-2017 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLexpat (Post 252148)
Had very similar issues with an 07 150 ETEC - died like that a couple of times and the third or 4th time we had to jump in and swim the boat the last 1/2 mile to the dock. Turned out to be a defective ECU - apparently it would quit when it got warm but the last time was fatal for it. Replaced the ECU under extended warranty about a month before that went out.

FYI - The water that comes out of the tell-tale on the small block 2.6L E-TECs (and probably on the later Fichts) is the same water that cools the ECU/EMM and fuel in the Vapor Separator Tank, so if either of those passages gets clogged, you may see a reduction in flow out the tell-tale! Unlike the big block 3.3/3.4L motors which use a low volume/high pressure "pisser stream", the small block 135HO/150/175/200 hp motors use a high volume/low pressure system, so it's very important not to restrict that flow. It's tempting to leave a male quick-disconnect fitting in that port since it's the same one you can use to flush the motor, but make sure the fitting has an inside diameter of AT LEAST 3/8"! I use a brass fitting that's about a 1/2" in diameter which seems to also keep exhaust soot off the cowling. DO NOT use the gray BRP flushing attachment made for the big block motors because it will restrict cooling flow to the EMM and VST!


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