Tow Boat US The Good And The Bad
 

Went on a ride to Sarasota to have lunch and a few cool ones. One and a half miles from the launch stopped so the Admral could pee and the starter would not even make a sound. Could have tried to trace down but instead called Tow Boat Us.

The tow showed up w/in 30 minutes and hooked me up with about 25 foot of rode to his stern, I though it a bit short. Instructed the tow to bring me to the right side finger dock at Indian Mound Park.

Well he did but at 3 statute mph heading directly at the dock. By the time I realized what was going on it was too late to do any thing. That will be the last time I put 100% confidence in any one regarding the handling of my vessel.
Good news, I called the owner and came to an agreement of compensation and have received the check as promised.

Made a temp. repair so the boat could be used and will do the final repair w/coosa when I have the time.

Not all experts...are experts!

Time for them to pony up on the repair. That was straight up negligence.

Tow BOAT US could have gently placed you Strbd Side into the finger pier ready to be loaded onto the trailer. WHOOPS !
Solution :

What's up with that crazy trailer hitch in the background? Is it used to tow mobile homes with the F150...LOL!

Since the owner agreed to pay and send a check asap I'm good now. The repair will take more time to remove the old pulpit than any thing else. As soon as I have replaced the transom on the 23 SC I will make the repair.

Yea the hitch looks a bit odd, that's an extension to a adjustable height receiver. The extension keeps my feet dry at the ramp.

Should have come alongside you once you got near the ramp.

Exactly the way it should have been done.

If those planks are cross bolted, your temp repair should stiffen it quite a bit. Looks like the roller is about 1' forward of the max stress area, which is where it broke. A 1' lever arm will allow the anchor rode to put some significant vertical dynamic loads into that bow pulpit/plank! If you were to anchor offshore in any kind of a sea, I don't think that teak planking, which appears to be maybe 1/2"-3/4" thick, is nearly thick enough, unless the anchor is just a lunch hook that's only used in calm water! Doesn't look like a SeaCraft so I have no idea how thick the deck is, but if it was mine, I'd want something about 1.5"-2" thick, through bolted to the deck with 5/16" or 3/8" bolts, and some sort of backing plate and fender washers under the deck. Moving the anchor roller closer to the bow would also shorten the lever arm and reduce the bending loads at the max stress area. I installed a similar but shorter bracket on my boat over 5 years ago that I've anchored with in short 2-3' seas while diving, and it's held up fine. If you do a search of my posts for "Anchor Bracket", it should bring up a post I did with a bunch of pictures of the deck reinforcement I installed.

Great points Denny! I've built several Teak pulpits and was thinking the same thing.

Bushwacker. The plan is to replace with 3/4 Coosa 26 and gel coat it. As you stated I will shorten it about 2" and move the roller back the same distance. You beat me to it Re: thru bolting it down and will bed with 4200.

The old teak is 1/2 and surprising it has held up to 3' seas on the hook with a 4 to 1 scope.

3/4" still sounds a little thin but maybe it'll work if you use epoxy and several layers of glass on top and bottom. At least it would crack before it failed completely! If it was mine, I'd use 2 pieces of coosa covered with glass, but I lean towards overkill on most stuff involving my boat, especially where I've had a failure! Your proposed 50% increase thickness will reduce max stress by a little over 3X. 2 pieces of Coosa will reduce max stress by 36X! The amount of deflection due to geometry at the end of that cantilever beam/pulpit will be reduced similarly. Deflections are also affected by the modulus/stiffness of the material, and I suspect Coosa is a lot stiffer than teak! Where you cut the slot for the bracket, don't leave square corners in the hole because that's a big stress riser. Nature likes a nice radius there as well as along the top and bottom edges of the slot to reduce stress concentrations caused by sharp corners/edges.

Couldn't find my old post I did on anchor bracket install and deck reinforcement, as it looks like search function only goes back 5 years, so here's a link to my photobucket album with some pics of that project. Anchor flukes are a little close to bow, so I have to slowly lower it to vertical before dropping it, but it works ok if you're careful. New anchor wenches have to be trained however! I used 2 layers of 1/4 or 3/16" plywood coated w/epoxy and wedged up under deck. The thin layers conformed better to the crown of the deck than one thick piece. I've since rotated the center cleat 90 degrees and changed the chain lock from a pin to the adjustable hook like you have. Good luck with the repair!

I'm with Denny, a single 3/4" is border line. On the weekend anchored up in the weekend "sandbar" seas it's fine, however in real water I'd give that some thought. I've broken the brass sleeve in a V-2 Lewmar windlass in 4' seas, so I know what crazy things can happen.

Looks as if the correct way is two 3/4 and will use 1708 topped with CSM, finally vale then gel coat. Had not thought of the radius corners but it makes sense. Regarding the thru bolting was planning to use six total, two near the bow and four aft of the center line. 1/4 should be ok with 4200 as bedding.

Ed